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Pffffft, bleed WRC Blue, have San Remo Red 06. Pity the paint is so thin, raging red WRX's are so pretty 
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Apr 18, 2012 23:20
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Cat Terrist posted:Pffffft, bleed WRC Blue, have San Remo Red 06. Pity the paint is so thin, raging red WRX's are so pretty Who does that?
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Apr 18, 2012 23:22
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I drat near bought an SRR WRX wagon, but the previous owner had paid to have an aftermarket sunroof installed. When I bought my Evo last month, I was adamant that it have a sunroof. As I was going through the typical negotiations, the salesman at one point said I could further lower the price of the car if I bought a model without the sunroof and paid the dealer to install one instead. It would save me "like a thousand dollars". I checked, and it was indeed quite a bit cheaper to install an aftermarket sunroof than to buy a car with one from the factory. So, I guess there's your answer. Edit: Also the sunroofs on that generation Impreza were a US only option and were silly small. Like only 4 or 5 inches wide from front to back. I assume aftermarket sunroofs are a bit bigger.
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Apr 18, 2012 23:55
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I drat near bought an SRR WRX wagon, but the previous owner had paid to have an aftermarket sunroof installed. Mazda doesn't offer a skyactiv mazda3 with manual and a sunroof right now, so the guys at work had this after market company put one in as a test. It sat for a few weeks but someone bought it and was excited about it
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Apr 19, 2012 00:55
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Holdbrooks posted:Hey Jamal I sent you an email about making a RACE CAR. been working on a reply btw.
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Apr 19, 2012 01:27
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Holdbrooks posted:Hey Jamal I sent you an email about making a RACE CAR. It better be a 1995 Impreza with a Roll cage and 15 foot high exhaust.
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Apr 19, 2012 02:00
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daslog posted:It better be a 1995 Impreza with a Roll cage and 15 foot high exhaust.
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Apr 19, 2012 02:02
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I drat near bought an SRR WRX wagon, but the previous owner had paid to have an aftermarket sunroof installed. Who wants a sunroof, full stop? Dreadful things
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Apr 19, 2012 02:38
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BoostCreep posted:Edit: Also the sunroofs on that generation Impreza were a US only option and were silly small. Like only 4 or 5 inches wide from front to back. I assume aftermarket sunroofs are a bit bigger. The sunroof on my '07 Limited is pretty normal sized and is awesome. I'm only 5'10" so it doesn't hurt me on headroom with a helmet or anything, so why not have it?
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Apr 19, 2012 03:04
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Roll cage doubles as exhaust piping. Stacks exit at c-pillars. God the car would be so hot inside...
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Apr 19, 2012 03:14
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Ribsauce posted:Can anyone help me with my Saab 9-2x? The check engine light is on and the tech told me I need a port one emissions sensor but I cannot figure out what I am supposed to order. He said they can't sell it for less than 400 but I can order it for 200 but I am lost. I see a bunch of oxygen sensors but I have no clue what he means by port 1. I figured before I spent 200 more I'd try asking here. Slow is Fast posted:Go to your local autozone or whatever parts store. Have them pull the code for free. Tell us the code and we'll tell you what to buy and how much it should cost. gently caress dealerships. I am just guessing but maybe port 1 means the upstream oxygen sensor (before the cat)? And port 2 would be the downstream, of course. Unless they start at zero... Is there any difference between the two?
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Apr 19, 2012 03:19
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:The sunroof on my '07 Limited is pretty normal sized and is awesome. I used to have a moonroof. I have a metal panel now.
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Apr 19, 2012 03:30
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Cat Terrist posted:Who wants a sunroof, full stop? Dreadful things Amen! Take up headroom. Can break or leak. Weigh more.
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Apr 19, 2012 03:53
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Cat Terrist posted:Who wants a sunroof, full stop? Dreadful things Not everyone is making a RACECAR. And sunroofs might have been leaky in the 80's, but seriously they've been around for a long time and manufacturers have done a pretty good job in making them water tight. Maybe after 10 years the seals could get brittle, but that's not exactly a hard thing to fix.
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Apr 19, 2012 04:21
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BoostCreep posted:Not everyone is making a RACECAR. Who said anything about racecars? I've only had negative experiences with those awful things so I ask again, who wants a sunroof full stop? Dreadful things
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Apr 19, 2012 04:32
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Cat Terrist posted:so I ask again, who wants a sunroof full stop? Dreadful things Well, me! I do! I rather like them. They allow sun in and hot air out. Also many other people like them since they are quite common on many tens of thousands of cars. And yes, some people do not like them. Why does this have to be a point of contention?
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Apr 19, 2012 04:41
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BoostCreep posted:Well, me! I do! I rather like them. They allow sun in and hot air out. Also many other people like them since they are quite common on many tens of thousands of cars. And yes, some people do not like them. Why does this have to be a point of contention? Also, my 2002 had a leaky sunroof. They even did a recall over it. I pretty much never used the stupid thing.
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Apr 19, 2012 04:45
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The sun roof on my 06 WRX limited is awesome. Never gives me any leaks, rattles, or noise. The extra sun is great.
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Apr 19, 2012 05:07
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I would do terrible, nasty things for some sort of two door Impreza convertible. Nothing but the sun and the grumbly roar of a boxer.
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Apr 19, 2012 05:19
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law abiding rapist posted:I would do terrible, nasty things for some sort of two door Impreza convertible. Nothing but the sun and the grumbly roar of a boxer. This would be pretty sweet...
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Apr 19, 2012 05:27
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law abiding rapist posted:I would do terrible, nasty things for some sort of two door Impreza convertible. Nothing but the sun and the grumbly roar of a boxer. B9 Scrambler  They also made an Impreza convertible concept in the 90s, but I don't remember the name of it:  edit: The old concept is called the Operetta. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Apr 19, 2012 |
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Apr 19, 2012 05:43
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Too bad all soft top convertibles look like poo poo when compared to hard top or regular cars. My opinion, blah blah.
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Apr 19, 2012 06:42
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law abiding rapist posted:I would do terrible, nasty things for some sort of two door Impreza convertible. Nothing but the sun and the grumbly roar of a boxer. Impreza convertible, you say?  Edit: It's not a 2-door, though.
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Apr 19, 2012 17:22
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The sunroofs in the latest generation really don't take headroom away. I'm 6'3" and still can easily wear a helmet in my '11 with the sunroof.
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Apr 19, 2012 17:35
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Monstertruck posted:God the car would be so hot inside... Good, then you can throw away the HVAC system and go ice racing.
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Apr 19, 2012 19:26
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law abiding rapist posted:I would do terrible, nasty things for some sort of two door Impreza convertible. Nothing but the sun and the grumbly roar of a boxer. I'd put good money on a BRZ convertible coming out sooner rather than later. Not that I would buy it.
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Apr 19, 2012 19:27
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BoostCreep posted:Well, me! I do! I rather like them. They allow sun in and hot air out. Also many other people like them since they are quite common on many tens of thousands of cars. And yes, some people do not like them. Why does this have to be a point of contention? Except letting the sun in creates hot air and also lets in a ton of wind noise. I would bet that you're better off running the air conditioning in terms of gas mileage. I'd rather save the $500-1000, extra few inches of headroom, added weight and areas for failure and get a regular roof, but lots of upper trims have mandatory moonroofs. Also, I have an '06 wagon and the drat thing really is like 6 inches long and creates a visible bulge in the headliner.
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Apr 19, 2012 19:33
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Safety Dance posted:Impreza convertible, you say? Hey that's my local dealer. I'm two minutes down the road and have seen that thing in the showroom many, many times. I doubt they'll ever sell it.
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Apr 19, 2012 20:10
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Cat Terrist posted:Who said anything about racecars? I've only had negative experiences with those awful things so I ask again, who wants a sunroof full stop? Dreadful things I do, it's actually a requirement for me purchasing a car because I love them so much. It's almost like different people have different preferences when it comes to cars? Cream_Filling posted:I'd put good money on a BRZ convertible coming out sooner rather than later. Not that I would buy it. In other "different people have different preferences" content, if the BRZ 'vert maintains the back seats I would strongly consider it. Dogs like convertibles, too!
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Apr 19, 2012 22:25
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Do any of you guys have experience with swaybars, endlinks and anti-lift kits? I'm getting the suspension bug (irresistible compulsion to spend money on car) and I want to know how deep to dive in. I've read all the poo poo on NASIOC about these things, but I want to know what you think.
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Apr 20, 2012 00:36
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Roman Rambo posted:Do any of you guys have experience with swaybars, endlinks and anti-lift kits? I'm getting the suspension bug (irresistible compulsion to spend money on car) and I want to know how deep to dive in. Dont read NASIOC for suspension advice, it is a toiletbowl. Do swaybars for the right reasons - and the right reasons isnt to fix camber curves. You do sway bars as a final suspension tune to neutralise the handling. Against the stopwatch they do nothing but make you feel good on a stock car. Remember bigger sway bars remove grip ALKs have a really, really bad reputation here in Aust BUT BUT BUT the castor change they provide is more than just a bit desireable. It's a LOT desireable and you can do it for free if you have alloy control arms on a pre 08. On the post 08's you need an offset bush on the control arm. An offset bush pre 08 also works. Believe me, you WANT to do this, it is the single best mod that actually works against the stopwatch. Also proper alignment, I presume you have that done. Rollbar endlinks - ehhhhhhh....... some say they work, other people say they are a waste of time. I think on a WRX they are worth the effort on the rear but the changes are marginal in result, you can do better looking at bushes and pillowball lateral arms. Bushes and pillowball lateral arms do not make the car faster as per say BUT they do remove any movement the stock bushes have and makes the cak "talk" much better so you can react quicker to what it's doing. I think the best way I can say howe a more positive feeling car works is this - I can work out how fast a car goes around a corner by trial and error and usually that's a lot quicker than what it feels. A WRX feels like it's limits are 20 kph lower than what they really are but that zone is spooky as you are going on faith to a large degree until you learn that the car is talking to you quite differently. So, say at Wakefield Park where I have done it this process of learning takes about 30 laps, involves a few going off, a bit of slip and sliding and a lot of data checking to work out best appoaches and speeds into and out of corners, plus inventing new lines through corners. But now I know and I simply dive into a corner and trust the car will do what I want. NOW..... Let throw in a bunch of good bushes and pillowball lateral links. The slop in the chassis is gone and the car reveals immediatly where the real limit is. I dont need 30 tries at a corner, I nail it after 3 because the car is clearly communicating and it feels a good deal better, so I have confidence. The old suspension gives me one or two good laps and lots of ugly ones. The new firmer setup gives me 3 uglies and 27 almost on the dot good ones. That's on a track of course, but it does translate to the road. A WRX is not a precise chassis so working to sharpen it's response is always good. The tradeoff is the NVH gets worse. Your call on if that's acceptible but I think it's worth it.
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Apr 20, 2012 01:12
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Alright, you've sold me on doing that stuff. Thanks Cat Terrist. edit: I also feel like NASIOC is more of a toilet than it ever was, even. When you say bigger swaybars remove grip, what do you mean exactly? If I was looking at say 24mm front and 22mm rear it shouldn't be terribly extreme I hope.
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Apr 20, 2012 01:18
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Where do struts, springs, and wheel width fit into all of this?
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Apr 20, 2012 01:28
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Roman Rambo posted:Alright, you've sold me on doing that stuff. Thanks Cat Terrist. Ugh, NASIOC. Take a look at this link http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1818798 and weep.
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Apr 20, 2012 02:17
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Roman Rambo posted:Alright, you've sold me on doing that stuff. Thanks Cat Terrist. I think the front bar is too big, drop back to 22mm. I'd get the Whitline adjustible bars so you can play around with settings. Okay, with sway bars what is meant by remove grip is based on how it all works - the larger bar transfers more weight from the outside corner to the inside corner as the the act of leaning on the outside corner pushes against the sway bar, which then tries to lift the inside of the car I hope that made sense, it works better when explained with visual aids So, if you are stopping this process by adding a heavier sway bar, you are reducing the amount of weight the car puts onto the tyre. More weight = more grip on that corner. So as we are putting less weight on the outside this = less grip. I add that grip is not the be all and end all, too much grip can be bad with simply too much force put on the tyre for it to work at all. On the rally car I run no sway bar on the front as you can not get too much grip on gravel. Body roll is not always a bad thing too, in fact you need it sometimes or else the tyres never get enough weight on them to work at all! Going too stiff is much worse than too soft, you get a darty hairy car that handles like a startled cat on lino. Hope that helps  quote:Where do struts, springs, and wheel width fit into all of this? Wow, that's a pandora's box because there are soooo many variables. Ummmm.... where do I start? I'll have think on that and get back to you on where to start One thing I will add is that the main mistake people make is they make their cars too stiff and with tyres too wide. 235mm wide tyres are actually where you stop on a pre 08 as they just dont need it except with lots of suspension mods to make the tyre work. quote:Ugh, NASIOC. And there's why NASIOC is the worst Impreza forum on the Internet.
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Apr 20, 2012 02:36
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Cat Terrist posted:The tradeoff is the NVH gets worse. Your call on if that's acceptible but I think it's worth it. Then I should be in for a treat.  
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Apr 20, 2012 02:43
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I guess now would be a good time to explain how swaybars and weight transfer actually work. Firstly, the total amount of weight transfer is ONLY a function of track width, cg height, and cornering force. A certain car going around a corner at x lateral gs will transfer y lbs of weight to the outside of the car. It has absolutely gently caress all to do with springs or swaybars or anything suspension related. Let me say that again, and in bold: making your suspension softer or stiffer DOES NOT change the amount of weight transfer. It is simple physics. You could replace your struts with blocks of would and would still get the same amount of weight transfer. Now, what we are actually changing with springs and swaybars and suspension changes is the rate of weight transfer (stiffer suspension reacts more quickly) and the front to rear distribution of weight transfer. If your spring and swaybar rates front and rear (called a roll rate) are proportional to the weight distribution, the amount of weight distributed to the outside tires in a corner will also be proportional. Depending on the car, this could make the car oversteer, understeer, or be pretty well neutrally balanced. Since we are in the Subaru thread, I should probably relate this to them. To make things easy we'll say they have a 60:40 F:R distribution. That means, with the springs and swaybars setup based on the weight, under steady state cornering the front outside tire is going to get 60% of the weight transfer. In reality that is pretty close to the truth and guess what: these cars understeer out of the box. Notice how I said the tire with more load loses grip first? That's because the coefficient of friction of a tire in reality is not proportional to load. If it was, more normal force would equal more grip and chassis dynamics would be exactly the opposite of how they actually are. So that said, the number one rule of chassis tuning is that making an end of the car stiffer will reduce the grip. This is because the amount of weight transfer is proportional to the resistance to roll. If the rear suspension is stiffer, the rear suspension will do more work to resist roll, and the rear outside tire will be more heavily loaded. This will make a car more prone to oversteer. With a Subaru, we generally want to go stiffer in the rear than what the math in a chassis dynamics book might suggest because it is an AWD sedan. All four tires are working to make the car accelerate, but the fronts have the additional task of trying to make the car turn. The "compromise" of putting on a big rear swaybar will get the rear tires to do more work and make the car more neutral, keep tire temps more even front to rear, and give you less corner exit understeer. As far as what size of swaybars you should buy, it depends on the tires and use of the car and spring rates. for general street use 22mm bars are great. for mixed street and track use on sticky street tires like a hankook RS3 24mm bars are good to go with. For 27mm bars you really need to know what you are doing and have R-compound tires. I prefer to keep the front and rear bars evenly sized and at least the rear should be adjustable. I have my 22mm front bar set to soft and the rear set to full stiff and am fairly happy with the balance. Because these cars are big heavy sedans with a high center of gravity, you simply cannot get enough roll stiffness for a sticky tire on pavement with springs alone and you have to use swaybars. Trying to do it all with springs results in an insanely stiff car that has no suspension travel, is twitchy, unstable over rough surfaces, and cooks the tires. so generally sucks to drive. If you do not believe me, bring a tire pyrometer to your next track day and record the data for yourself. It is the only way to properly set up a car. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Apr 20, 2012 |
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Apr 20, 2012 03:13
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Cat Terrist posted:
edit: ^^ thanks Jamal. Makes a lot of sense. Hollis Brown fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Apr 20, 2012 |
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Apr 20, 2012 03:17
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If you haven't seen it before, I love the Grassroots Motorsports feature on WRX suspension: http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/dialed/
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Apr 20, 2012 05:06
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jamal posted:making your suspension softer or stiffer DOES NOT change the amount of weight transfer. quote:A certain car going around a corner at x lateral gs will transfer y lbs of weight to the outside of the car quote:You could replace your struts with blocks of would and would still get the same amount of weight transfer. Fundamentally wrong from here because you have left out part of the equation. You CAN change it and the simple fact is that making the car softer or harder DOES change it, otherwise I would have kicked KB's rear end at the last rallysprint where the STI was refusing to turn or brake..... when I was stupid enough to leave harder suspenion in. It NEVER generated the front grip and that front grip in no small part is dictatced by the amount of weight I can manage to get onto the tyres. The suspension, even on a good hard packed gravel road was simply put too stiff to force the front to dive and to force the as much weight as possible on the front tyres. This is simply where your statements break down immediatly and it made the car 10 seconds a lap worse. I missed braking points, it understeered and it was ugly. The simple problem was not enough grip on the front. Even the most ruthless of left foot braking didnt fix it. Yet I soften the suspension and hey presto, the weight transfer is back and the front tyres are working! A stiffer suspenion WILL resist weight transfer and here is the bit you left out, x angle produces y transfer. If you said a car at x angle will produce y transfer, yes of course suspensions at x angle will give y transfer (Generally). Stiffer suspension forces the car to have less angle, hence less weight shift and hence a new value for x angle, which gives a lower value for y transfer. Softer allows more x angle, which gives a larger y transfer value and hence more real life weight on the front tyres. And it is the last bit you omitted, which on the other hand I have paid attention to first. Because as the trophy for second rather than first proved - it's a fundamental issue that can greatly alter the behaviour and speed of your car. And this is also measureable and has ineed been measured - and is all the more important on low grip surfaces.
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Apr 20, 2012 05:23
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