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Do you have bark busters installed? If so, are they too tight and stopping the throttle tube from being able to snap back?
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Apr 11, 2012 23:36
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I have a DRZ question. If my bike is stopped at a light and running and I crack the throttle it stalls. It's harder to do it once it's warmed up but it will still do it. Would this be caused by the supposedly lean factory jetting or something entirely different? This has happened a couple times and I can replicate it pretty reliably, it got me stuck today in a bad spot and I almost got nailed.
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Apr 11, 2012 23:39
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Spiffness posted:Do you have bark busters installed? If so, are they too tight and stopping the throttle tube from being able to snap back? Yes I do, but I've got the right one removed completely at the moment. I'm really baffled, only other thing I could think of is if I'm somehow installing the thing wrong but I've not had an issue with any of my other bikes including my SV which seemed to use identical components. Ponies mine did that with the stock carb as well, I think it mostly went away when I did exhaust, jet kit, and 3x3. It's been awhile since then and I'm a little fuzzy about the timeline though.
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Apr 12, 2012 00:28
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drzrma posted:Yes I do, but I've got the right one removed completely at the moment. I'm really baffled, only other thing I could think of is if I'm somehow installing the thing wrong but I've not had an issue with any of my other bikes including my SV which seemed to use identical components. Check that the carb slide isn't binding up in the bore. Also check that your cables are tight enough. If they're too loose they can slip off the guide and cause the throttle to jam.
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Apr 12, 2012 00:31
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I have a DRZ question. If my bike is stopped at a light and running and I crack the throttle it stalls. It's harder to do it once it's warmed up but it will still do it. This sounds like a lean mix at idle. You can try fixing this without having to rejet by just screwing out your fuel screw a half turn or so.
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Apr 12, 2012 00:44
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:This sounds like a lean mix at idle. You can try fixing this without having to rejet by just screwing out your fuel screw a half turn or so. While we're on the subject, would a lean idle explain my considerably-more-than-normal-but-extremely-satisfying popping on deceleration? [edit] I love it and don't want to change it unless it's doing long-term damage 
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Apr 12, 2012 02:03
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Z3n posted:Check that the carb slide isn't binding up in the bore. On my vstar, if they were too tight, they'd just bind. Might be worth checking if they're loose enough as well.
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Apr 12, 2012 02:33
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It does it as I snap the throttle open, I don't really make a habit of it but I will do it sometimes when lane splitting. That's what happened today.
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Apr 12, 2012 02:37
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With the cable disconnected I can open the throttle at the carb with my fingers and when I release it snaps closed like it should, so I don't think the slide is binding. It's a brand new FCR as of last summer, throttle return spring actually makes it drat hard to open with just my fingers. Played with the cable, everywhere from just too tight to a bit loose, didn't seem to change anything. Fairly sure it's interference between the throttle tube housing and the tube itself, I guess I'll sharpie the enclosed part of the tube and see if it gets rubbed off tomorrow. Thank you all for the suggestions, I really appreciate it. This is just driving me loving nuts, especially with the weather finally getting better.
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Apr 12, 2012 04:31
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I'll just trade you that FCR for a perfectly functional mikuni carb. No more worries about throttle cables, I promise.
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Apr 12, 2012 05:55
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drzrma posted:Fairly sure it's interference between the throttle tube housing and the tube itself, I guess I'll sharpie the enclosed part of the tube and see if it gets rubbed off tomorrow. Does the housing have pinch screws that snug down two halves of the housing together? If so, play around with tension on those screws.
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Apr 12, 2012 06:40
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I'd had some issues with the stock Mikuni carb as well, I don't think it's the FCR. You'll be the first I call if it turns out differently though. It does have pinch screws, which result in either the throttle tube behaving itself and the housing moving around the bar, or the housing staying put and the tube binding. I tried duct tape on the bar where the housing contacts it to no effect, though I am wondering if something like grip tape might work better. I guess as a comedy last resort I could always JB weld one half of the housing to the bar.
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Apr 12, 2012 15:23
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drzrma posted:I'd had some issues with the stock Mikuni carb as well, I don't think it's the FCR. You'll be the first I call if it turns out differently though. I had the same issue with my Bandit, and putting some electrical tape around the bar, so it was under just the left side of the throttle housing did the trick
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Apr 12, 2012 15:26
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I've found that the balance (more/less tension) on the pinch screws can make a difference. YMMV.
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Apr 12, 2012 15:45
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Olde Weird Tip posted:I had the same issue with my Bandit, and putting some electrical tape around the bar, so it was under just the left side of the throttle housing did the trick Thank you thank you thank you. Electrical tape seems to have done the trick, along with gratuitous cursing of whoever made the piece of poo poo pot metal crap housing. Motomind you were right too, while it did need the tape it was incredibly fiddly about tension on the screws. I'd tried that before but it looks like it was off enough to need the tape to get it close enough to work. gently caress the rear end in a top hat that decided a locating nub wasn't needed. Yes, I know why the don't. Thank you all again, you've made my loving month. Now it's just some maintenance crap and I get to see which happens first, stuff vibrating off, injury, or speed certificate. It'll be fun regardless.
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Apr 12, 2012 22:26
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toolshed posted:While we're on the subject, would a lean idle explain my considerably-more-than-normal-but-extremely-satisfying popping on deceleration? Nope, the popping on deceleration means you're a bit lean on the main jet, but it's pretty normal if you have an opened-up aftermarket exhaust on there. If messing with your fuel screw doesn't solve your problem, you'll probably want to end up putting a larger main jet in there. You can also check obvious stuff like making sure there's no open vacuum hoses, loose airbox/carb connections, or a crapped up air filter.
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Apr 12, 2012 22:53
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A stuck coast enricher circuit or air leaks can also be to blame.
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Apr 12, 2012 23:03
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It's pretty common for bikes to pop on decel, I wouldn't worry about it. You shut the throttle and you instantly create a lean condition as you're no longer introducing fuel to the mixture. When I slap the throttle open for a sec at about 25 seconds you can watch the gauge spike to 16:1 when I shut the throttle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTC9b1amUaM Z3n fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Apr 12, 2012 |
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Apr 12, 2012 23:34
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I understand it's common, especially on thumpers, but it seems like mine does it a fair amount more than most. I'm actually a little confused as to how the main would be the gating factor in this scenario though? Either way, the bike came jetted/3x3 with a Yosh from the previous owner. I've since stuck a K&N on there, but I haven't noticed any change in the popping - it's always been pretty loud.
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Apr 13, 2012 01:10
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Dear Spiffness: http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/motorcycles/2012models/2012-KTM-690SMCR.htm I don't think you'll miss that 13k in your bank account much.
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Apr 14, 2012 18:07
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Z3n posted:Dear Spiffness: So they stopped importing the SMC....so they could make it more awesome? I like their thinking. Hopefully this will drive the prices on the old ones down, so I can actually afford one.
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Apr 14, 2012 20:40
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Z3n posted:Dear Spiffness: I saw that in the flesh at the Milan bike show, its hot. All the 2012 690 based bikes are awesome.
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Apr 14, 2012 20:43
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echomadman posted:I saw that in the flesh at the Milan bike show, its hot. All the 2012 690 based bikes are awesome. Is it really coming to the US though? It's not on the KTM US website, the only supermoto is the 450SMR. By the way... KTM is selling 450SMRs in the US again!
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Apr 15, 2012 04:30
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It looks like they've taken the power parts catalog to it. Gorgeous. If they bring that and the Duke 690 back to the states, one of them will be in my garage within 6 months. It's a sickness.
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Apr 15, 2012 06:37
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I just hit 3K miles on my DRZSM and my rear tire is looking tired. Its the stock wheels, & I want to upgrade to the distanzias except without wasting a good front tire. Are bikes like a car where mixing and matching tires isnt the greatest idea? Should I just buy another stock rear until the front wears and then replace the set? If I stick with the stock wheel, what rear brand/type would I need to get? Its a 2008. Thanks!
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Apr 20, 2012 18:21
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BotchedLobotomy posted:I just hit 3K miles on my DRZSM and my rear tire is looking tired. Its the stock wheels, & I want to upgrade to the distanzias except without wasting a good front tire. Are bikes like a car where mixing and matching tires isnt the greatest idea? Should I just buy another stock rear until the front wears and then replace the set? I just put a set of pilot powers on mine to replace the lovely oem tyres, they handle really nicely and by all accounts get a long life on the drz. I changed the back tyre first and rode around with mismatched tyres for about 3 weeks, I didn't notice anything drastically dangerous about it.
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Apr 20, 2012 18:25
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I would recommend putting on a supermoto tire, not a superbike tire. Superbike tires (such as Pilot Powers) are rated for speeds of 160+ and bikes that are a bit heavier than SMs. The best all around street tires for supermoto are Contiforce SM tires. Grab a set of those. They're awesome.
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Apr 20, 2012 19:20
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BotchedLobotomy posted:I just hit 3K miles on my DRZSM and my rear tire is looking tired. Its the stock wheels, & I want to upgrade to the distanzias except without wasting a good front tire. Are bikes like a car where mixing and matching tires isnt the greatest idea? Should I just buy another stock rear until the front wears and then replace the set? Is it the stock Dunlop front? If so just scrap it, as its pretty much junk anyway.
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Apr 20, 2012 19:23
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Yeah my bike's top speed is 99mph, I dont need a supertire. Its the stock front tire, I'm thinking the Distanzia's so I can dick around in the dirt a little better. What are the stock tire sizes I should be shooting for on a DRZSM? I see 120/70 Front and 150/60 rear thrown around a lot, is that what people usually use?
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Apr 20, 2012 19:28
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Spiffness posted:The best all around street tires for supermoto are Contiforce SM tires. Grab a set of those. They're awesome. I completely agree with this statement. Great wet grip, amazing dry grip, reasonably long lasting. I got over 4200 miles out of a rear Contiforce SM on my 625smc... Those miles included four trackdays. It still had a tiny bit of life left in it but I changed it due to a puncture. e: apparently they make a ContiAttack SM now???  http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/motorcycle/themes/motorcycletires/supermoto/attack_sm/attack_sm_en.html Might have to try those on the 690... needknees fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Apr 20, 2012 |
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Apr 20, 2012 20:01
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BotchedLobotomy posted:Yeah my bike's top speed is 99mph, I dont need a supertire. Its the stock front tire, I'm thinking the Distanzia's so I can dick around in the dirt a little better. What are the stock tire sizes I should be shooting for on a DRZSM? What year is your DRZ? Technically, the 05-06 need a 150 rear and the 07+ can take a 160 due to a slightly wider rear rim. You can fit a 160 on any year though.
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Apr 20, 2012 20:57
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Olde Weird Tip posted:What year is your DRZ? Technically, the 05-06 need a 150 rear and the 07+ can take a 160 due to a slightly wider rear rim. You can fit a 160 on any year though.
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Apr 20, 2012 21:54
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Zool posted:Did they go to a five inch rim? You can fit a 160 on a 4.5" rim, but the tire doesn't give good feedback at the edge. Source: More offs than I can count on two hands. 05-06 is a 4.25 07+ is a 4.5
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Apr 20, 2012 22:02
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Olde Weird Tip posted:What year is your DRZ? Technically, the 05-06 need a 150 rear and the 07+ can take a 160 due to a slightly wider rear rim. You can fit a 160 on any year though. 2008! I just want whatever would handle best since they're pretty much the same price give or take 5 bucks. 
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Apr 20, 2012 22:29
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Interesting cuts on some interesting angles http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIm96SyLt4E
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Apr 23, 2012 03:31
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Does this look like a good deal? http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/mcy/2938910544.html How are Huskies on reliability?
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Apr 23, 2012 16:37
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They're ok but they have a tendency to stretch cam chains to the point of needing replacement every 10k or so. If the guy doesn't even have the powerup kit on it it must have been babied. I would be leery about the "overtightened gasket", might be something that they stripped out.
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Apr 23, 2012 16:54
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Husky's really seem to either blow up with 300 miles on them or last 15k+ miles. Really hit or miss but mines been good to me for street and track. Coming up on 5k miles myself.
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Apr 23, 2012 16:58
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The 610 is pretty solid as long as you read up on the fixes; it's a dual sport and so different from the 510, etc. There's a woodruff key issue, not sure which model years were affected.
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Apr 23, 2012 17:48
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Safety Dance posted:Does this look like a good deal? http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/mcy/2938910544.html For that price you might be able to pick up a KTM 690SMC, which is a much better ride. The only thing the Husky has going for it over the 690 is a smoother throttle response. Largely because it doesn't have as much torque.
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Apr 23, 2012 23:43
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