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I'm so loving tired of gauge cluster making GBS threads themselves in my goddamn E30. Four piece of poo poo clusters over the past 4 years and even between the 4 of them I can't have one fully operational set. Has anybody fabricated their own gauge cluster using only aftermarket gauges? I love the way this looks in particular. I'd love to have real fuel and oil pressure gauges in addition to temp gauges that show real temp and not just blue/red. I'm good at electrics and wiring and decent at fiberglass and since I'm moving to NYC next month I'll have the time to work on it as it won't be a daily driver anymore.
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Apr 17, 2012 00:46
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I've got a very particular noise that I'm sure someone who knows more about transmissions than me can identify. It's a whirring/whining noise coming from my transmission, it only occurs when I have first gear selected, with the clutch disengaged. It varies in pitch/speed based on the overall speed of the car and not the engine, and is not present in any other gear.
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Apr 17, 2012 00:58
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Those sorts of noises are almost always throw-out-bearing related.
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Apr 17, 2012 16:21
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I got a Beemer at Bonneville too! Slightly off topic-- What time of year did you go? We were out there about a week before Speed Week, so the flats were pretty well-groomed.
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Apr 17, 2012 19:50
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Oh man, how do I get in on using Bonneville? Can you do it for free when there aren't a gazillion people there? I want to see how fast my E36 M3 can go. (the dyno chip and air intake are Dinan, so the speed limiter got removed)
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Apr 17, 2012 20:34
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Kenshin posted:Oh man, how do I get in on using Bonneville? Can you do it for free when there aren't a gazillion people there? We went in late July. It is public land. ----All use is at your own risk----. There is no cel phone service there!!!!! Here's the advisory from the Bureau of Land Management: http://www.blm.gov/pgdata/etc/medialib/blm/ut/salt_lake_fo/bonneville_salt_flats/pdfs.Par.78852.File.dat/BSF%20Travel%20Advisory.pdf You drive out about 3 miles until the road ends (where we took our photos). RESIST the urge to drive off early, the salt flats are wetter there, and the salt is quite thin. We saw mud directly under the tire tracks from previous visitors. GO ALL THE WAY TO THE END. The drop off from parts of the circle is pretty steep (greater than 4 inches), so be careful if your car has low clearance. If you continue a couple hundred feet from the island on the same bearing as the paved road that brought you there, line yourself up with the mountain crests on the north-northwest horizon. You will have about 5 miles of well-kept salt flats that you can use. I would recommend doing a low-speed drive out to check the surface for any abnormal bumps -- our Z4's lil' Bangle butt kept lifting whenever we adjusted the steering wheel even the tiniest notch!!
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Apr 18, 2012 02:44
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Ronnie B. posted:So it looks like it's the wear sensor on my E90's brakes: This is annoying. I finally replaced the sensor when I was changing out my winter tires, and it's still not clearing the fault code. The old sensor was definitely worn out, but changing it doesn't seem to have fixed the problem. I tried another sensor (I bought two in case I broke one) with no luck. I also tried resetting the service interval (won't take because of the fault code) and resetting the DSC ECU (says Command Successfully Sent but doesn't appear to do anything). Any ideas?
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Apr 18, 2012 23:29
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revmoo posted:Those sorts of noises are almost always throw-out-bearing related. But only in a certain gear?
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Apr 19, 2012 00:02
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The Third Man posted:But only in a certain gear? Harmonics are strange. I had a bad wheel bearing that could only be heard at exactly 35 mph on asphalt surfaced roads only. Any other surface it was undetectable.
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Apr 19, 2012 00:27
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The Third Man posted:But only in a certain gear? If your clutch isn't engaged, then only the clutch is really turning. Has to be clutch-related.
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Apr 19, 2012 00:44
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Finally took a crappy picture of my new wheels. Hope you (don't?) like basketweaves. Could really use some lowering now.
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Apr 19, 2012 01:01
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revmoo posted:If your clutch isn't engaged, then only the clutch is really turning. Has to be clutch-related. Alright, that does make sense. As far as I know the car is still on it's original clutch at 138k, no slippage, but I'm sure something is probably pretty worn.
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Apr 19, 2012 01:05
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Got my e46 out of storage this weekend and I realized I've become one of those BMW owners who only wants to drive e30s or e36s. While a ZHP is almost objectively better than an e36 328/e30 325, it just doesn't feel right with the new car lustre worn off. The steering is fantastic, the 6spd gearbox is perfect, and it handles like nothing else. But subjectively it's wierd. I prefer the claustrophobic/low down feel of previous 3ers. I figured driving it again would take away the desire to sell it, but now I want to get rid of it more than ever. Nice cars suck. I want something well-used that I won't care if I get a scratch on, and won't feel bad hammering it in autoX and the track.
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Apr 19, 2012 02:59
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Fusillade posted:What time of year did you go? We were out there about a week before Speed Week, so the flats were pretty well-groomed.
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Apr 19, 2012 03:17
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Crustashio posted:Got my e46 out of storage this weekend and I realized I've become one of those BMW owners who only wants to drive e30s or e36s. While a ZHP is almost objectively better than an e36 328/e30 325, it just doesn't feel right with the new car lustre worn off. The steering is fantastic, the 6spd gearbox is perfect, and it handles like nothing else. But subjectively it's wierd. I prefer the claustrophobic/low down feel of previous 3ers. I figured driving it again would take away the desire to sell it, but now I want to get rid of it more than ever. Let me know if/when you're willing to move forward selling it. I might be interested.
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Apr 19, 2012 03:48
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Well, after totaling my wife's car, I'm taking delivery on a 2000 328i Sedan today. She's always loved the e46, and I found one in good condition, so I had to give in. 250,000km, but it's well-maintained and nearly perfect. Sport, Premium, and Cold Weather packages, no rust, perfect paint (black metallic), fresh brakes and belts. All systems and switches functional. Leather in excellent shape. Complete toolkit. Winter tires. Good rear subframe mounts, clean underbody. Bone stock. 5-speed, as the wife demanded. The car drives perfectly, and daaaaamn that engine. I've never driven a car with an engine that spins to redline so drat quickly. Peak torque at 3500 RPM is a dream compared to the high-strung 4-bangers I'm used to. Reminds me of my 325e, except this one produces power. I won't bother with pics because you've all seen a black e46 before. I was very happy to find one that did NOT have style 44 wheels.  (Please tell me those wheels do not have some kind of cult following. Please, for my sanity.)Style 43 supremacy.
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Apr 19, 2012 14:06
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an oddly awful oud posted:Let me know if/when you're willing to move forward selling it. I might be interested. It's already up for sale. I live in nova scotia.
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Apr 19, 2012 16:19
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Crustashio posted:It's already up for sale. I live in nova scotia. Ah, a little too far for me. I hope it goes to a good home though.
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Apr 19, 2012 23:36
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I've wanted an e39 M5 for a long time, and I'm considering this one that came up nearby: http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2967795055.html I'm not worried about budgeting a few thousand a year for normal maintenance, the M tax, tires, etc. but the asking price seems a little high. It's got relatively low mileage and seems to be in good shape from the pics. Downsides: I talked to the seller and he doesn't have any maintenance records; he bought it less than a year ago from the previous owner who bought it at auction, so who knows if previous owners beat the poo poo out of it, although cosmetically it looks well taken care of.. I know a good private BMW shop in the area I'd take it to for a PPI before making an offer. You guys see any big red flags? I absolutely love the e39 M in general and have been looking for a good example of one for a while, so I'm hoping a clean inspection at the mechanic can help offset some of my worry about no maintenance records.
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Apr 20, 2012 05:31
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Everybody celebrate! I passed 500 miles since my JB Weld+1/4" NPT fitting overflow nipple repair. I will not lie, I feel more confident about my repair than the original fitting. BMW cooling  Hey cool I've got a pic on my phone. 
Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Apr 20, 2012 |
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Apr 20, 2012 09:06
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brae posted:I've wanted an e39 M5 for a long time, and I'm considering this one that came up nearby: No maintenance records on the most notoriously expensive m car? I wouldn't even consider it. Even in Canada there are tons of e39 m5s for sale with records.
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Apr 20, 2012 13:02
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Crustashio posted:No maintenance records on the most notoriously expensive m car? I wouldn't even consider it. Even in Canada there are tons of e39 m5s for sale with records. But... but... It looks and drives like NEW!!! Yeah, no mention of records doesn't necessarily mean there are no records, but most would mention it if they DO have records. I do love the interior color though.
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Apr 20, 2012 14:30
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Apparently the new M5 is quite safe.
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Apr 20, 2012 15:23
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So, my trusty old 530 would not start the other week. Turns out the issue was the old DiCE Silverline I had installed back in 2008 was constantly drawing on the battery, and because I drive rarely (once every 2 weeks or so) and the battery was aging badly it didn't have the juice to start. The shop pulled it out but I'm kinda lost without my digital music collection so I need to put it back in. But I also really like being able to start my car. So, anyone have any insight into fixes here? I'm considering a good old fashioned kill switch but I was wondering if there were more elegant options.
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Apr 20, 2012 15:35
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wwb posted:So, my trusty old 530 would not start the other week. Turns out the issue was the old DiCE Silverline I had installed back in 2008 was constantly drawing on the battery, and because I drive rarely (once every 2 weeks or so) and the battery was aging badly it didn't have the juice to start. Without knowing anything about this product, I don't see why you can't reconnect it running from a ignition power source instead of constant.
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Apr 20, 2012 16:22
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brae posted:I've wanted an e39 M5 for a long time, and I'm considering this one that came up nearby: Buy it anyway; I bought mine without records and it's been great so far. Get a PPI done, check for the major repairs, and then go for it. There really isn't that much critical stuff that blows up with the e39s; the engine is solid, the transmission is bulletproof. Clutch might go out, you'll have the various electrical gremlins (VANOS, CPS) but they're solid cars and I don't regret buying my 100k mile M5 for one second.
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Apr 20, 2012 16:26
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revmoo posted:Without knowing anything about this product, I don't see why you can't reconnect it running from a ignition power source instead of constant. Working on getting a wiring diagram, but it hangs off the radio which is apparantly not ignition powered.
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Apr 20, 2012 17:31
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If it's like my DICE HD, it plugs in to the CD changer connections and is powered from the same source. All I ever notice if I unplug it is the HD Radio presets get lost, so since I don't think the Silverline has HD Radio you're probably safe to put it on switched power if you can find an appropriate source.
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Apr 20, 2012 17:54
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wwb posted:Working on getting a wiring diagram, but it hangs off the radio which is apparantly not ignition powered. Most radios have both keyed and contant power. Otherwise they would lose their presets (if it was only on keyed power) or not turn off with the car (if it was just constant power). In fact, I'm pretty sure there is a powered antenna lead on that radio. It is only energized when the radio is on. Use that. Ninja edit: Pin 16 on the 17 pin connector.
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Apr 20, 2012 18:11
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Thanks guys, that is what I need to do. Now to figure out how, been a long time since I did more than "plug the thing that plugs into the other thing" on a car stereo; I stick to software tweaking these days.
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Apr 20, 2012 19:16
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Can someone recommend a BMW specialist in the North Toronto / Mississauga / Newmarket triangle?
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Apr 20, 2012 20:17
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Since we're talking about DICE and stuff, can anyone recommend the easiest to install adapter that will work on an e46 with Nav and a 6-disc trunk mounted changer? I don't care if I lose the cd player.
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Apr 20, 2012 21:02
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Crustashio posted:No maintenance records on the most notoriously expensive m car? I wouldn't even consider it. Even in Canada there are tons of e39 m5s for sale with records. The E39 M5 is not even close to the most expensive m car. The e60/63/64 puts it to shame (where common SMG pump issues will cost you upwards of $4000 and VANOS/other odds and ends cost several thousands as well). I'd say go for it, that price doesn't seem all that bad considering it's an '03, and as long as you get a good PPI done you should be fine. You may also want to call up a BMW dealership and ask them what kind of work as been done to it as well.
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Apr 20, 2012 21:32
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Since we're talking about DICE and stuff, can anyone recommend the easiest to install adapter that will work on an e46 with Nav and a 6-disc trunk mounted changer? I don't care if I lose the cd player. There are two common points to attach to the car audio system, the CD changer plug in the trunk or the back of the head unit. Both have audio connections and an I-Bus line (one of the control buses in the car, used for A/V, locks/security, windows, and some lighting). Most of the adapters I've seen connect to the rear plug. I think this is because only some of the head units have their spare port enabled. This means that if you want access to whatever you're hooking up, you'll need to run some cables up front. My DICE was intended to mount up front, so it came with a long cable to connect to the jacks in the back. I ran it through one of the trunk wire access plugs, crossed the car under the rear seat, and followed the door trim to get up to the front. It's about six screws to drop the glove box and there's a nice set of spots back behind it that look designed to fit random electronics. I pulled the iPod and Aux cables up under the center console and have over time tried everything from running them out in the passenger footwell, having them come up under the console and stashing my ipod under the cupholders, and now I cut a hole in the back of the sunglass holder and pulled both in through there. So far this is my favorite, but it brings a permanent mod to the car (though to a cheap, easily replaced part) with it where everything else is easily reversible. In my case I also had a HD Radio antenna to install. I popped off the A pillar cover and carefully routed the cable down from the top right corner of the windshield where the antenna attaches. Working up there requires care, as you need to be sure that everything is run behind the airbags so nothing restricts their operation or becomes a dangerous projectile if they fire. Other adapters may mount in the back and just run the input cables up front, or if you have a compatible head unit you might find a reseller offering a short cable for the head unit interface. If you go that way, you'll just need a panel removal tool (or a screwdriver covered in electrical tape) to prevent damage to the trim. Use it to pry off the dash trim starting at the door. Once the trim is off, there are two screws holding the head unit in. Remove those, slide it out, and plug in your cable. Either way it's all easy if you can work a screwdriver. Choose your adapter based on features, quality, and price, the install is basically the same all around. edit: I guess there is one option that's slightly different, I forget the name but it was an adapter that supported a variety of Alpine (I think) gear, including an iPod adapter. It's only slightly different though, there are just two boxes connected by a cable to figure out where to place. wolrah fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Apr 20, 2012 |
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Apr 20, 2012 23:00
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Stealth Like posted:The E39 M5 is not even close to the most expensive m car. The e60/63/64 puts it to shame (where common SMG pump issues will cost you upwards of $4000 and VANOS/other odds and ends cost several thousands as well). I pulled Carfax on it to at least find out it had received regularly scheduled service, and test drove it earlier today after doing some research to get an idea of what I should expect the drive to be like for a well-maintained model. It was in really good shape, all the electrical stuff worked, etc., so I think I'm confident enough to pay for a PPI and see if the mechanics give it a clean bill of health. There are a couple of reputable BMW private shops in the area that I trust. But that's a good idea on the dealership - I'll give them a call and see if they're willing to look up the VIN for me for dealer service records. If everything goes well sometime next week I'll finally get my hands on a nice example of an E39 M5.
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Apr 21, 2012 01:25
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I think this is probably what I'd worry about the most on an e39 M5. I think this is probably at least part of the reason why Nait's throws a bunch of codes.
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Apr 21, 2012 01:31
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Lowclock posted:I think this is probably what I'd worry about the most on an e39 M5. I think this is probably at least part of the reason why Nait's throws a bunch of codes. I've read about that, but supposedly it's not a problem after late 2002 models due to some engineering changes? So I figured with a 2003 I'd be safe.
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Apr 21, 2012 01:34
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what's the easiest way to clean-up a leak under the carpet in the rear of an E46 sedan? Is there an easy way to fold the carpets up to get access to the floor and underside?
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Apr 21, 2012 07:16
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Do you live in Austin, TX? http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/2967081056.html I do not know the poster of this ad nor have I ever seen this car in person. Just thought someone might like to look at the ad.
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Apr 21, 2012 18:06
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Struggling to bleed the clutch on my e30. A few people on other forums are saying that its a self-bleeding system, anybody have experience with this?
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Apr 21, 2012 23:21
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