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albear posted:So, I ordered a Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH and got a G300NH2 from Newegg. Does this version still work with DD-WRT or Gargoyle? You probably already looked at this, but it is listed on the Supported Devices list for DD-WRT, however the dd-wrt version number and additional install notes are blank, so I'm not sure which you'd use: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Supported_Devices#Buffalo
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Apr 20, 2012 17:04
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Rexxed posted:You probably already looked at this, but it is listed on the Supported Devices list for DD-WRT, however the dd-wrt version number and additional install notes are blank, so I'm not sure which you'd use: I did see that list but being that there aren't any notes, I wasn't sure if the support was good. I've heard mixed reports of DD-WRT bricking the router and so on. Maybe I'm better off just returning this thing to Newegg and picking up a router on the list.
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Apr 20, 2012 17:28
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Jan posted:Another question about extending WiFi range, but with a slightly different setup. Yes. poxin posted:I'm very happy with my Asus rt-16n. I picked it up last week and was looking for the same thing you are. Seconding this. I've got two of them running Tomato and I have been extremely pleased.
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Apr 20, 2012 17:29
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Hiyoshi posted:Seconding this. I've got two of them running Tomato and I have been extremely pleased. Which tomato are you running? The official Tomato builds won't run on it, will they? How is your N signal? I came to the realization that all my devices (sans cell phones) are N so I should probably join the future.
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Apr 20, 2012 17:32
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FISHMANPET posted:Which tomato are you running? The official Tomato builds won't run on it, will they? How is your N signal? I came to the realization that all my devices (sans cell phones) are N so I should probably join the future. TomatoUSB from this site. It supports DD-WRT as well. The signal is excellent. If you're not satisfied with the capabilities of the antennas on the router, they're removable so you can replace them with third-party antennas. The RT-N16 isn't dual-band though, so if you want dual-band you'll have to go with the RT-N66U which is considerably more expensive. I'm not sure about the current state of Tomato support for the RT-N66U.
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Apr 20, 2012 19:29
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I'm having some trouble with my wireless network. I recently just switched from DSL to 30 mbps cable and the excitement quickly died down when I realized I was getting speeds like this I thought it was something wrong with my ISP but then I checked my dad's computer which is connected directly to the router and he gets speeds even higher than what we are paying for.  They gave us a Netgear CG3000D but it's extremely unreliable and when I download games on steam, it hits 1.1 MBps but it quickly falls down to 0 every 10 seconds. I currently have my old router, a Buffalo G300NHv2, connected directly into the Netgear, as it's our modem too, and it has stabilized the download speeds a bit but it still won't go faster than 1.4 MBps/15 Mbps at best. Is there anything I can do? My dad has a metal filing cabinet right next to his desk and I figured that would mess with the connection so I moved the router/modem as far away as a I can but I cannot move it away from the desk because my dad's desktop doesn't have wifi. Here's the layout of my home if you need it. 
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Apr 20, 2012 19:58
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Are there any other wireless devices you can test on? Maybe it's your adapter.
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Apr 20, 2012 20:22
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IT Guy posted:Are there any other wireless devices you can test on? Maybe it's your adapter. I've hit 2MBps at my school before but that was a while ago. However I get the same results on my sister's Chrome netbook. Edit: I decided to check my speed being in the same room as the router and I got this result so I don't think it's my adapter 
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Apr 20, 2012 20:31
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i like tacos posted:I've hit 2MBps at my school before but that was a while ago. However I get the same results on my sister's Chrome netbook. I haven't looked at your router specs but can they do Wireless N over 2.4 instead of 5?
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Apr 20, 2012 20:51
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I've been having this same problem, it turned out to be my Intel wifi card in my laptop. Forcing it to G instead of N fixed my internet speeds. Unfortunately network transfers are slow now.
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Apr 20, 2012 20:54
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FISHMANPET posted:Which tomato are you running? The official Tomato builds won't run on it, will they? How is your N signal? I came to the realization that all my devices (sans cell phones) are N so I should probably join the future. Tomtousb is great on it. I'm running the toastman fork right now for some other features and its also rock solid.
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Apr 20, 2012 20:55
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Jan posted:Another question about extending WiFi range, but with a slightly different setup. You want a different channel, otherwise, yes.
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Apr 21, 2012 04:32
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Powdered Toast Man posted:What about the Black Knight? (I want to make a Monty Python joke so bad) There's a post earlier with a functioning tomato build I believe. So there's some firmware support.
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Apr 21, 2012 09:07
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Have been looking for a router to put dd-wrt or tomato on and saw this asus rt-n12 was on sale. It shows on the supported devices list for dd-wrt and it also shows on the incompatible list (different revisions). Is there any way to tell which revision of the rt-n12 this is before i buy it?
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Apr 21, 2012 15:12
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Does anyone know of a detailed guide to setting up the Ubiquiti nanostations mentioned in the OP?
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Apr 21, 2012 19:44
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Roving Reporter posted:Does anyone know of a detailed guide to setting up the Ubiquiti nanostations mentioned in the OP? They come with a setup guide. What part are you having problems with?
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Apr 22, 2012 04:23
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So in exchange for setting my uncle's network up he gave me the router he originally intended on using, a WNR2000-100NAS. Without opening the box, is there any way of telling if it is V1, 2, or 3? I know with linksys routers you can tell by serial number but I can't find a list for this router. EDIT: Don't want to open it in case its a v3 and not supported by third party firmwares. In that case, its getting thrown on eBay. EDIT2: Just like always, I find the answer myself immediately after giving up and asking for help. It's a v1, supported by OpenWRT but not DD-WRT. Good enough for me. Triikan fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Apr 22, 2012 |
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Apr 22, 2012 18:51
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I'm looking to run some network cable around the house and get drops in the bedrooms, living room and an office space I'm building in the basement area. I've seen some of the Leviton structured wiring enclosures in newer construction houses and liked them, are they worth putting in after the fact, or should I just run all this crap down to the utility room in the basement and mount a patch panel on the wall? I'm guessing I'd just be terminating ethernet connections, ye olde telephone and cable connections are already run and there's no way I'm rerunning those.
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Apr 22, 2012 20:25
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I'm selling eight (yes, eight total) DD-WRT/OpenWRT compatible TP-Link routers in SA-Mart for $15/each shipped, and an 802.11n Airport Extreme for $80, in case anyone is interested.
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Apr 23, 2012 03:11
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Sorry, this is probably a pretty elementary question, but I perused the op and couldn't find any info about this particular problem. I guess it's more of an IP-issue though. We recently moved (from one place in Japan to another) and set up our network (AirPlay Extreme, iMac, 2 iPhones, 2 iPads, Xbox). It works alright but it's considerably slower than what we were getting at our previous residence, but that happens. Anyways, I go to SpeedTest.net to check out the specifics, and it says our ISP is AT&T and located in Wichita, KA, USA (It's actually OCN in Nagoya, Japan). Says our IP is 12.13.14.15 (not sure what it really is, but I'm sure that's not it). This makes me think it's some sort of basic problem, but I really don't know enough about this stuff to diagnose it.
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Apr 23, 2012 05:16
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Maneki Neko posted:I'm guessing I'd just be terminating ethernet connections, ye olde telephone and cable connections are already run and there's no way I'm rerunning those. If you aren't going to re-run everything to the new cabinet I wouldn't bother. They're kind of nice for new installs but I find that you always end up buying too small a cabinet. They aren't deep enough for all the goodies you want to stuff in there. Better to make a little rack and use a patch panel.
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Apr 23, 2012 05:51
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NOTinuyasha posted:I'm selling eight (yes, eight total) DD-WRT/OpenWRT compatible TP-Link routers in SA-Mart for $15/each shipped, and an 802.11n Airport Extreme for $80, in case anyone is interested. Can you put TomatoUSB on these? They don't appear to be officially supported but you never know.
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Apr 23, 2012 11:33
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Heresiarch posted:Can you put TomatoUSB on these? No, I don't think so.
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Apr 23, 2012 12:08
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lovely Treat posted:Have been looking for a router to put dd-wrt or tomato on and saw this asus rt-n12 was on sale. Decided to order it as its only £10. Says hardware revision B1 on the bottom so looks compatible.
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Apr 23, 2012 13:32
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So I'm sick of my internet connection cutting in and out and hearing the same old "well your signal looks good on our end" spiel from Comcast, and I'd like to have more control of my connectivity, or at least be able to diagnose issues myself. First off, I'm renting a modem right now, would it make sense to purchase one? Secondly, last time I called they told me it was my router that was causing issues, how can I determine if this is true? Is there a log file or something generated by the router that can help with this? For reference, the router is a cheap Netgear WRN2000v2, is it maybe time to update this?
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Apr 23, 2012 15:04
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The Third Man posted:So I'm sick of my internet connection cutting in and out and hearing the same old "well your signal looks good on our end" spiel from Comcast, and I'd like to have more control of my connectivity, or at least be able to diagnose issues myself. First off, I'm renting a modem right now, would it make sense to purchase one? Continue to rent your modem until you finish troubleshooting. Plug directly into the modem with a single computer. Reboot the modem and make sure your connection comes up. Start up pings to a neutral target - google.com and 4.2.2.2 I would use big pings to the latter target so that you have a chance to see if you're dropping bigger or smaller packets. ping -t -l 1400 4.2.2.2 Let that run for a while. When you "lose signal" check the lights on the cable modem - are they in a different pattern than normal? Are your pings dropping? If so, get on the phone with your ISP and report this. Best case is they will see a problem as it's happening. If you don't see any drops or problems after running this configuration for a couple days then yes, your router may be poo poo.
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Apr 23, 2012 17:44
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I'm currently running on a V1 E4200 and I want to set up the router to connect to the Internet via a VPN login (L2TP or IPSec). What firmware should I use that would allow me to do this or should I stay on the Tomato RAF I am currently using? I would prefer not using DD-WRT since I nearly bricked the router upgrading to a version of it.
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Apr 23, 2012 23:57
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CuddleChunks posted:Continue to rent your modem until you finish troubleshooting. Plug directly into the modem with a single computer. Reboot the modem and make sure your connection comes up. Start up pings to a neutral target - google.com and 4.2.2.2 I would use big pings to the latter target so that you have a chance to see if you're dropping bigger or smaller packets. I've been pinging google.com for a couple hours now and it's dropping maybe 4-8%, and every now and again it will spike up from 50ms to anywhere from 600-2000ms. I'm pretty sure the modem is at fault here, but can I also ping my router to eliminate that possibility? If so, the router's IP is going to show up as the Default Gateway(192.168.1.1 on my end) on an ipconfig /all, correct? Thanks very much for the advice
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Apr 24, 2012 00:51
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I've got a pretty strange issue going on here that I was hoping someone might be able to give me some ideas on fixing. I was trying to transfer some files between my laptop and my desktop, and the speed was capping out at around 11 MB/s. I started Googling and stuff and eventually found out that my laptop's connection to the router was only 100 Mbps for some reason. Eventually I pinned down the problem: LAN port 2 on the router. If I connect to 1, 3, or 4, it gets a 1 Gbps connection no problem, but for some reason port 2 is stuck at 100 Mbps. I've tried upgrading the firmware on my router (ASUS RT-n16, toastman's tomato build) without any luck, and completely wiping the NVRAM too. I'm not sure what else it could be other than a hardware issue with the port itself. Edit: LAN port 2 is the one I've had my laptop connected to and online for no less than 12 hours every day for the last year, do these things just wear out sometimes? Sikreci fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Apr 24, 2012 |
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Apr 24, 2012 19:14
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Had a play with my Asus rt-n12b1 over the last couple of days. Managed to get various versions of both tomato and ddwrt installed but cant get the router working properly with either of them installed. I have it running fine with the Asus firmware on the router but neither of the others will get an internet connection even when i use the same settings the Asus was working with. I have my old router/modem set up with DHCP disabled and a DMZ to the Asus router (bridge mode wont work with my ISP it seems  ). Other settings are:lan ip 192.168.1.254 subnet mask 255.255.255.0 DMZ Host IP Address 192.168.0.1 All i configured in the Asus firmware was DHCP enabled and: lan ip 192.168.0.1 subnet mask 255.255.255.0 Wan static ip 192.168.1.1 Subnet mask 255.255.255.0 Default gateway 192.168.1.254 I can access both the Asus and my other modem/router with this config in tomato or ddwrt just no dice with internet. This is working fine on the Asus firmware yet wont on tomato or ddwrt so i think there must be something im missing that needs configuring in those firmwares that the Asus does not, any ideas?
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Apr 24, 2012 19:15
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uapyro posted:I'm trying to figure out the best way to accomplish something. I got this working in client mode finally. Is it possible to throttle any MAC address I don't have in a list?
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Apr 24, 2012 21:39
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lovely Treat posted:Had a play with my Asus rt-n12b1 over the last couple of days. You've sort of got your network numbers all confused if I read this post right. The first router should send data to a dmz host on its own lan subnet, like 192.168.1.x (pick a number not in use). Then the second router should have that address as its WAN IP, and the gateway as the first router's IP. Then the second router's LAN setup should be on an entirely different subnet like 192.168.2.x (or 192.168.0.x if you must, 10.10.10.x if you're cool) for everything, with its own settings and DHCP server. You're essentially doing double-nat here, but your second router will control all the traffic since the first is just a pass-through with the DMZ setup. edit: To further clarify, try a setup like this. Router 1 (connected to the internet with its wan port, and router 2 with a lan port) WAN: whatever your ISP wants (usually DHCP) LAN: 192.168.1.1 DMZ host: 192.168.1.2 no need to turn DHCP off but you won't be using it Router 2 (connected to Router 1 with its wan port, running your computers/devices on its lan ports) WAN: 192.168.1.2 with a gateway of 192.168.1.1 and dns as whatever (either 192.168.1.1 if Router 1 will forward, or use DNS hosts from your ISP or use google at 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4) LAN: 192.168.0.1 Turn on DHCP server, all computers in the house will get addresses in the 192.168.0.x subnet with 192.168.0.1 as their gateway. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Apr 24, 2012 |
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Apr 24, 2012 22:29
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Rexxed posted:Stuff Thanks, will give this a shot when i have more time tomorrow.
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Apr 24, 2012 22:44
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Any thoughts on an Asus RT-16 versus an Airport Extreme for a home router? Currently using a WRT54GL running Tomato which I've been happy with.
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Apr 25, 2012 05:11
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The Third Man posted:I've been pinging google.com for a couple hours now and it's dropping maybe 4-8%, and every now and again it will spike up from 50ms to anywhere from 600-2000ms. I'm pretty sure the modem is at fault here, but can I also ping my router to eliminate that possibility? If so, the router's IP is going to show up as the Default Gateway(192.168.1.1 on my end) on an ipconfig /all, correct? Thanks very much for the advice You shouldn't drop any packets but definitely not more than 1%. Yes, pinging your default gateway will rule out problems between you and your router. If you haven't bothered to plug in directly to the modem then you should be pinging the router to see if the drops are happening at the same time.
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Apr 25, 2012 08:59
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Rexxed posted:edit: OK these settings are working fine in the stock Asus firmware just like my previous ones were, but still no internet access in tomato. Both router 1 and 2 are accessible from a web browser. Here are some screenshots of what i entered in to tomato just to make sure i have not made a mess of that somehow. http://imgur.com/a/65fik Edit: Weird its all working fine now on DDWRT after wiping and flashing firmware over and over, strange  Thanks rexxed Shitty Treat fucked around with this message at 11:08 on Apr 25, 2012 |
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Apr 25, 2012 09:48
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Residency Evil posted:Any thoughts on an Asus RT-16 versus an Airport Extreme for a home router? Currently using a WRT54GL running Tomato which I've been happy with. I'm also interested in an answer similar to this as I'm currently looking at buying either the Netgear 3700, asus rt n16, or the linkys e3000. My area is extremely network congested on 2.4 so 5GHZ would be nice but it seems none of my Laptops can even connect to a 5GHZ wireless so that might be worthless to pay for until I get a new laptop that will be able to connect to 5GHZ.
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Apr 25, 2012 14:56
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Residency Evil posted:Any thoughts on an Asus RT-16 versus an Airport Extreme for a home router? Currently using a WRT54GL running Tomato which I've been happy with. If you would like to continue using tomato (well, technically a fork of it) then I would absolutely go for the RT-16n. I went from the WRT54GL to a Netgear N600 (with dd-wrt) and hated it. Returned that and got the rt-16n and I love it, it's a nice step up from the linksys. I realized that I can't do without tomato personally.
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Apr 25, 2012 23:19
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poxin posted:If you would like to continue using tomato (well, technically a fork of it) then I would absolutely go for the RT-16n. I went from the WRT54GL to a Netgear N600 (with dd-wrt) and hated it. Returned that and got the rt-16n and I love it, it's a nice step up from the linksys. I realized that I can't do without tomato personally. Is the RT-16n reliable? The WRT54GL isn't bad but requires a reboot every now and then. I do like how the AEBS at my parents' is pretty rock solid.
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Apr 26, 2012 00:14
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Is anyone having trouble trying to load Tomato on their Asus RT-N16? I got one and read that you can't directly install Tomato on it. Some forum said to install DD-WRT first (which worked), and then load Tomato on it. After loading Tomato, the router reset and all but now I can't connect to it. Connecting directly gives me a 169.x.x.x address and doesn't pull up anything for router IP. I've tried resetting the NVRam by doing the 30/30/30 method with the WPS button but it still does not do anything. albear fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Apr 26, 2012 |
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Apr 26, 2012 01:25
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