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Detroit117 posted:Wired up a Power Commander and mounted it where my tool kit used to be. I basically jizz myself every time I see a quality wiring job. Looks great.
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Apr 21, 2012 16:12
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2 days ago I did my first oil change on the Ninja 250 @ 1,000 miles. It's a 2010 that I got for firesale price since it had been dropped with 650 miles on it. Nothing more than some scraped plastic in the front and a cracked rear fender. My bet is that it wasn't going very fast when it fell. I completed the MSF just a few weeks ago and it's finally 100% legal! (Texan living in California temporarily for work, so I went back home to get my endorsement, did the MSF here, registered it here, etc. etc.). Plans to come (nothing major): rear fender delete / new license mount, shogun frame sliders, possibly new levers (clutch lever is bent, but still functions fine). I might wire up a relayed distribution block for future electrics and hard-wire a microUSB cable to charge my phone in the trunk.
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Apr 21, 2012 16:18
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Flushed all the hydraulic systems on the bike. Front brake and rear brake were OK, but the clutch fluid looked like chocolate milk. I hope that's just a leaking seal and not a failing cylinder. Time will tell. Looks like I gotta replace front brake pads here in a month or so.
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Apr 21, 2012 19:41
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Took mine into the shop to gripe about one of the headlight lenses growing multiple cracks. Known issue with the new pentagon-shaped Triumph lights. I was expecting some grumbling and hassle with a warranty claim. However, the dealer had a spare set of headlight assemblies he'd just pulled off somebody's brand new Street Triple R that they're cafe racing out (a lot of customers at this dealer seem to have more money than sense) so he swapped out the bad assembly and away I rode.
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Apr 22, 2012 10:47
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Did the valves on my Bandit, with the help of Mr. Cornelius. 33,000km and looking like the day it left the factory:  It turned out that a valve adjustment was way overdue, goddamn previous owner(s) probably never had the valve cover off ever. I couldn't even get a 0.05mm feeler gauge in there, on an engine where the minimum clearance is 0.10mm and 0.18mm for intake and exhaust  Now it's back to proper spec and the valves tick like any proper air-cooled engine should.
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Apr 22, 2012 18:01
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How long did that take?
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Apr 22, 2012 18:16
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Ziploc posted:How long did that take? 15 minutes. Or so.... O.K. Official Suzuki dealer estimate is 4 hours sharp. I guess we used about 5 or so including beer and pizza. Could probably be done in less than 2h. now that we figured it out. Working alone I think I could do it in 1.5h if I leave out beer and pizza. Kozmonauts Bandit is a naked though - might add half an hour if it wasn't. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Apr 22, 2012 |
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Apr 22, 2012 18:18
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Yeah, it's not really doing the valves that sucks up time, it's the process of getting access to them. You have to pull off the tank, spark plug wires etc. before you even begin removing the valve cover. The valves themselves probably only took 20 minutes or so. Doing all of this outside in the rain and hail is not recommended, BTW. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Apr 22, 2012 |
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Apr 22, 2012 19:08
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KozmoNaut posted:It turned out that a valve adjustment was way overdue, goddamn previous owner(s) probably never had the valve cover off ever. So the valves were way out of spec and the bike still started and ran normally? drat I should get a bandit one day.
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Apr 22, 2012 19:20
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KozmoNaut posted:Did the valves on my Bandit, with the help of Mr. Cornelius. This is so comforting. I did my valves a few thousand miles ago, and all of a sudden the engine started ticking all the time. Ran better, had more power, and used less gas, so I decided to wait for metal in the oil or something. I'm glad it's SUPPOSED to make that noise.
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Apr 22, 2012 19:41
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Gnaghi posted:So the valves were way out of spec and the bike still started and ran normally? drat I should get a bandit one day. I can confirm that none of the valves had any clearance at all, and that Kosmonaut drove it here. It sounded pretty O.K. I had no idea about the horror that awaited. Another really beautiful thing about a Bandit 600/1200 is that the valve-cover gasket is a giant O-ring and totally reusable if you clean it. Combined with screw-adjusters and no shim-fuckery makes the total investment in valve-adjustment $0.
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Apr 22, 2012 21:08
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Gnaghi posted:So the valves were way out of spec and the bike still started and ran normally? drat I should get a bandit one day. It started and ran perfectly fine, pulled evenly through the revs, idled just fine, didn't make any funny noises, didn't use excessive amounts of fuel or oil. There was no indication other than the lack of valve tick and I've never had any aircooled vehicles before, so I didn't know what to expect from it, noise-wise. You have to really make an effort to kill a Bandit. I have a feeling another 10,000km or so would have ended up in the Horrible Mechanical Failures thread due to neglected maintenance, though. I bet none of the previous three owners ever touched the valves at all. If you want a bike that can probably go 50,000km with nothing but a couple of oil changes, an air-cooled Bandit is probably the way to go. It probably won't be worth much of anything afterwards, though. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Apr 22, 2012 |
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Apr 22, 2012 21:15
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And screw adjusters too, thats awesome. The biggest pain when doing the valves is having to order the shims after you measure them, waiting a week or more to get replacements. On the ninja I needed like 5 of the same size, which meant if I had ordered the big kit I would have been screwed since it only has 3 of each. Every bike should have screw adjusters.
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Apr 22, 2012 22:22
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KozmoNaut posted:Did the valves on my Bandit, with the help of Mr. Cornelius. Sir Cornelius posted:Another really beautiful thing about a Bandit 600/1200 is that the valve-cover gasket is a giant O-ring and totally reusable if you clean it. Combined with screw-adjusters and no shim-fuckery makes the total investment in valve-adjustment $0. Maybe it's the angle of the shot, but that looks like a phenomenal amount of room to maneuver in there. Even if it were a bucket and shim arrangement, it looks like you'd have tons of space for tools and hands. I had to become a contortionist to get at some of mine, and getting the shims in was like playing ring toss at a crooked carnival.
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Apr 23, 2012 01:43
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There really is a ton of room in there
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Apr 23, 2012 01:55
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Gah. I'm trying to decide if I trust myself to do a valve check/adjust. Second owner said the first owner took care of it. And I hear ticking. But I don't know... 
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Apr 23, 2012 04:06
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Ticking is good. Slappy valves are happy valves. Tight valve clearance (valves never close) is an issue, however.
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Apr 23, 2012 04:22
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Marv Hushman posted:Maybe it's the angle of the shot, but that looks like a phenomenal amount of room to maneuver in there. Even if it were a bucket and shim arrangement, it looks like you'd have tons of space for tools and hands. I had to become a contortionist to get at some of mine, and getting the shims in was like playing ring toss at a crooked carnival. There is lots of space, the valves for cylinders 1 and 4 are extremely easy to do from the sides, and you can do 2 and 3 from the top almost as easily. Like I said, it took maybe 20 minutes to do all the valves once the valve cover was off.
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Apr 23, 2012 07:51
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 new tires and fluids! cyclegear tire sale was too tempting. waiting on some little nuts and bolts from ronayers, $5 a pop for those stupid little rubber nuts.
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Apr 23, 2012 08:05
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Bought and installed every carbon fiber part available for my bike. Somehow it does not look like a ricer cheese-ball. Also got a ton of new parts since the last time I posted here, including: - LeoVince Zero 11 exhaust - Rizoma rear-sets - Motodynamic integrated taillight - Evotech frame and axle sliders - Rizoma Zero 11 front indicators - Rizoma bars and grips; CRG mirrors and levers - And more stuff! Next weekend I'm going to try to pull off the silver headlight cover and get it powder coated, and wrap the fork legs in flat black vinyl. Fixed Gear Guy fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Apr 23, 2012 |
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Apr 23, 2012 15:13
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Saturday I changed the I need to do a TPS reset soon. e: It's no longer drooling out the breather, looks like I threw the excess! clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Apr 23, 2012 |
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Apr 23, 2012 18:59
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MotoMind posted:Ticking is good. Slappy valves are happy valves. Tight valve clearance (valves never close) is an issue, however. I did my own valve shimming job on a solid lifter Volvo motor (*cough, redblock) after watching my buddy burn an exhaust valve from rushing through his own job. Heck, he was the guy who taught me how! I heard this ticking everybody talks about and it freaked me out. Makes me happy to hear that I got it right  . I triple checked the clearances due to paranoia. It doesn't really require any special skills, just the ability to follow a spec and use some simple tools.
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Apr 24, 2012 14:49
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Fixed Gear Guy posted:Bought and installed every carbon fiber part available for my bike. Somehow it does not look like a ricer cheese-ball. Also got a ton of new parts since the last time I posted here, including: Lot of parts left to install..... get on it and post some photos.
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Apr 25, 2012 08:10
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Went over to the garage yesterday. Got the new exhaust welded up, new brackets made for it and mounted on the bike. Got the new air cleaner assembly mounts finalized and the air cleaner on. Got the carb fully rejetted and adjusted. Got new seat pan bolts spaced and welded on. Put everything back on, so carb, air cleaner, exhaust, gas tank and seat pan. Turned her on, adjusted the idle... sounds like an angry hornet mated with a machine gun and produced this thing. I didnt think it would be quite this loud. 
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Apr 25, 2012 15:27
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I did some poo poo: The goldwings carbs got pulled and were gone over recently, I found that 2 float bowl screws were stripped so I'm going to helicoil them today. Then hopefully get them mounted tonight. It was too cold to finish painting last night so I moved Joey's K3 CB750 out of the garage and tried to see if I could get it to run. It did, but not well. The new exhaust sounds AWESOME though. Suspecting yet another air leak at the insulator boots I swapped the carb boots and the stock carbs for a set of Keihin CR Special 29's with new boots. That'll fix her wagon.I accidentally unplugged the points wires in the process. I'm sure I'll forget about that later when I go to start it.  I also fixed the starter solenoid and front brake switch wires on the K3. Rearranged some stuff on the shelves to make room for the boxes up GL1100 wiring harness and battery basket as well as the CB650 swingarm that'll be going on my K7 CB750. Tonight I'll be taking a break from wrenching to rip apart some computers for salvage and to see if I can turn some CPU power supplies into DC 12v and 5v power supplies for electrolysis.
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Apr 25, 2012 17:03
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Tonight I'll be taking a break from wrenching to rip apart some computers for salvage and to see if I can turn some CPU power supplies into DC 12v and 5v power supplies for electrolysis. Three months from now GnarlyCharlie's going to post pics of his garage where half of it is gutted old Dell mid-towers
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Apr 25, 2012 20:20
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I wish I had known. I think I tossed one a couple months ago. (I might be wrong about that and still have it though.)
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Apr 25, 2012 20:32
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Detroit117 posted:Lot of parts left to install..... get on it and post some photos. I should have been clear, I already installed everything. Let's see if the photos will post this time:    The more I think about clip ons (and the more I sit on my bike and position my hands where they would sit, pretending to ride), the more I think about ordering some. Fixed Gear Guy fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Apr 25, 2012 |
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Apr 25, 2012 21:19
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Snowdens Secret posted:Three months from now GnarlyCharlie's going to post pics of his garage where half of it is gutted old Dell mid-towers Well I already have about 20 computers gutted. plus a bunch of other poo poo: cd-roms, remote controls, etc... Since I can dispose of them properly instead of just having people trash them I don't mind doing my part to keep them from the landfills. Plus I get to keep all the LEDs and magnets and cool poo poo in them. So in three months you might see pictures of Boeing 747's stuck to the side of my garage from all the Rare earth magnets I've amassed. 
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Apr 25, 2012 21:36
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Fixed Gear Guy posted:I should have been clear, I already installed everything. My bad, I misunderstood. Like the look of that exhaust..... That is a ton of carbon fiber. How do you like the CRG levers? was considering ordering those. What I did to my Bikes: Ducati got rearsets, handle bar mirrors, and a dyno tune. (85 HP / 67 ft-lb)   Honda got an oil change and a chain adjustment. 
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Apr 26, 2012 07:01
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An elective carb strip and dip (I'd already rebuilt them last season) to fiddle with some jetting, turned into a debacle. Float levels were too high (actually sticking) and flooded the carbs, pods and engine with gas. The thing puked fuel like a frat boy.  Waiting on a new oil filter, I spent several hours trying to dial in the float heights and figure out what caused the flooding. Turned out that the bowl gaskets (which were the same ones I used before), were a bit too wide and interfered with the floats, keeping them from closing. A little Xacto work to shave the edges back, and the float levels seem to be on track. Won't know until I install the new oil filter and add fresh oil. I also stripped and am refinishing another tank that I put aside last season. Instead of trying to level out the bondo in the knee-dents (because gently caress that concave surface in its virgin rear end in a top hat), I plan to fashion up some faux knee-pads using some spray-on textured bed liner.
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Apr 26, 2012 17:08
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Well I swapped my regulator for an ebay aftermarket. Bike is starting after a little more coaxing than usual but it could be the weather. Cold start with lots of choke, start after short ride, and start after long ride, all taking slightly longer to turn over than before. Ranging from just 1 crank to 3-5 seconds worth of cranking. Gonna ride over to a friends house and get his voltmeter on it soon, to see if the battery tests at 12+ volts at idle.
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Apr 26, 2012 21:38
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Detroit117 posted:My bad, I misunderstood. Lookin' rad man. It's a ton of CF but surprisingly it doesn't look like my Ducati just raped a lovely Civic out front of Pep Boys. I like the CRG levers a lot. The shorties rock. Only thing is that the clutch side is no good closer than the "3" position because it won't hit the safety switch after that point. I received the red levers by accident and just kept them, although I hear Pazzo now makes powdercoated levers if you want a closer match to the red.
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Apr 27, 2012 02:21
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KozmoNaut posted:Did the valves on my Bandit, with the help of Mr. Cornelius. How hard is it to torque the adjuster nuts properly? I only have a normal sized torque wrench and I'm not sure I'd trust it on those little nuts. EDIT: Did you mess with the timing chain adjuster at all?
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Apr 27, 2012 15:45
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Ziploc posted:How hard is it to torque the adjuster nuts properly? I only have a normal sized torque wrench and I'm not sure I'd trust it on those little nuts. You won't have to worry about timing chain adjustment at all, since you won't have to touch it while working on Suzuki Bandit screw type adjusters. The torque on the 8mm nuts is by feeling. A normal open 8mm. wrench will do. Just use a lock type wrench to hold the upper square part of the vent-rod while you tighten the nut down. Just a few degrees misalignment from your original measurement will through it way off. Then it's loosen and repeat. drat Mr. Kosmonaut. My prize for learning him how to do this was that he educated you 
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Apr 27, 2012 18:53
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I forget, how do you get the cams in the right position? Isn't there some maintenance for the timing chain tensioner?
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Apr 27, 2012 19:38
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Ziploc posted:I forget, how do you get the cams in the right position? For turning the cams you just remove the cover for the crank positioning sensor. It's on the right side if you sit on the bike. I think it's 4 or so 5mm inner hex screws. They shouldn't be too tight. The cover shouldn't contain any oil, so just relax. You can reuse the gasket a few times if you're careful. That'll give you free access to turn the crank/the cams with a 19mm. open wrench (or 17mm., maybe, check it, my memory is about as old as I am). Turn it, BUT remove the sparkplugs before you do so, or you'll probably smack the cam sensor more than it likes. And oh yeah, place the gearbox in neutral You shouldn't have any reason to maintain the chain tensioner unless you have to do a general rebuild. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 10:03 on Apr 28, 2012 |
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Apr 27, 2012 21:30
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Good job slowly talking me into doing this myself chaps.
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Apr 27, 2012 21:56
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Ziploc posted:Good job slowly talking me into doing this myself chaps. The hardest part was getting the valve cover gasket positioned right and it wasn't even that hard. Don't worry so much about the cam position markings like they tell you in the manual, just make sure the lobe is pointing away from the rocker arm. There's a surprising amount of space to work with once you get the tank and valve cover off. Oh, and buy some liquid gasket, I think mine's weeping the tinyest bit of oil from one of the rubber bungs that are part of the valve cover gasket, but it may just be from when we did the work.
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Apr 27, 2012 23:59
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Stuff a plastic bag in the cam chain tunnel, but leave some sticking out so you can remove it easily and don't forget it in there. Losing a small object down the cam chain tunnel is no bueno.
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Apr 28, 2012 00:28
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