|
It's a way to mimic some of the effects of decoctions, when boiling a mash with a high percentage of pilsner malt a good way to reduce DMS, and plain ol' just a way to take the OG beyond what restraints natural mashing methods offer. Post 4000  
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2012 18:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 18:17 |
|
|
Also the longer boil helps boil off more of your initial boil volume if you have too much to start
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2012 18:31
|
|
|
I'm teaming up with my dad next weekend to brew a Belgian Quad, and since we have two sets of equipment we decided to go parti gyle. We want to do some sort of IPA from the second runnings, but beyond that we're not sure where to take it. Here's the grain bill (it was scaled from a recipe which explains the non-round numbers): 20.17 # Belgian Pilsner (2-Row) 1.65 # Caramunich Malt 0.8 # Biscuit Malt 0.54 # Aromatic Malt 0.4 # Special B Malt 0.32 # Chocolate Malt At first I was thinking to stay Belgian and go for a Belgian IPA but we decided to reuse a yeast cake from a Wyeast 1272 (California Ale), so I guess more of an american IPA is in order. Without adjuncts I'm estimating a 1.048 OG and 14 SRM for the second runnings. Does this grain bill bring anything specific to mind? I was thinking of adding some DME and maybe some sugar to get it up to 1.058 maybe, then add a bunch of citrusy hops. Or maybe skip the adjuncts and go for an APA. Thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2012 18:31
|
|
|
TenjouUtena posted:A few questions. 3 oz of dry hopping sounds super aromatic! How many do you think you can drink before you get tired of it? Also, why do you boil 90 when your first hops are at 60? Both the production and homebrew versions of the beer are dangerously easy to drink.  I can easily drink multiple pints in a row, and my friends and family who have tried it always go back for seconds.I boil all my homebrews for 90 minutes because I'm used to using crappy stovetop burners that don't always get a good, strong boil. In most of my apartments, I've had to put my pot across two burners just to get a decent boil, so 90 minutes is a good way to compensate for that. It's also a good idea to boil for 90 minutes when you have very pale beers, just to drive off any DMS that might be hanging around. It probably gives a bit of extra kettle caramelization, but that's not part of my rationale for it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2012 18:38
|
|
|
I really like rage-saq's grain bill for a quad, which is 50% Belgian Pils and 50% Belgian pale. All of the color comes from the addition of dark candi syrup in the boil. Here's my interpretation of his recipe: http://hopville.com/recipe/546097/belgian-dark-strong-ale-recipes/the-iconoclast So if you do that, you could maybe cap the mash with some crystal or something for the second runnings and get an IPA of some description out of it. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Apr 22, 2012 |
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2012 18:39
|
|
|
Is there any real point to using a glass carboy? I've always fermented in buckets but I got a carboy in that kit I won and I don't know what I would ever do with it. Maybe I'll make some mead and leave it in a closet forever.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2012 18:46
|
|
|
PokeJoe posted:Is there any real point to using a glass carboy? I've always fermented in buckets but I got a carboy in that kit I won and I don't know what I would ever do with it. Maybe I'll make some mead and leave it in a closet forever. Short answer to avoid the lengthy discussion that happens everytime. If you ever HAVE to transfer for whatever reason a carboy is better to avoid head-space and oxygenation, but the short term primary fermentation it's irrelevant, but it's cool to watch the yeast do it's thing
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2012 18:49
|
|
|
... and big, heavy, slippery glass things are somewhat dangerous to have around. They tend to break, placing people nearby (usually those who were holding the carboys until the moment before the breakage) at risk of injury. If O2 permeability is a serious concern for your process, stainless and PET are also very good choices and somewhat less prone to breakage.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2012 18:53
|
|
|
Jo3sh posted:I really like rage-saq's grain bill for a quad, which is 50% Belgian Pils and 50% Belgian pale. All of the color comes from the addition of dark candi syrup in the boil. Here's my interpretation of his recipe: We're going for fairly dark, so we're also adding a bunch of dark candi syrup. Are you suggesting as is the second runnings will be darker than we would shoot for with an IPA?
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2012 19:17
|
|
|
theDoubleH posted:We're going for fairly dark, so we're also adding a bunch of dark candi syrup. Are you suggesting as is the second runnings will be darker than we would shoot for with an IPA? No, I am saying that I don't think the complex malt bill you had laid out is what I would do. I think all of this: 1.65 # Caramunich Malt 0.8 # Biscuit Malt 0.54 # Aromatic Malt 0.4 # Special B Malt 0.32 # Chocolate Malt can be dropped altogether in favor of a much simpler grist. For the quad, the overwhelming majority of the character will come from the yeast (Wyeast 3787, let the heat generated by the ferment carry it up to 80-83 degrees F). Based on my reading (and rage-saq's), the use of character and specialty malts in a quad is a departure from what is actually done by the Trappist monks. Then again, I have always been an advocate of brewing what you want to drink rather than slavishly brewing to style, so I would not hate you or anything if you proceeded as you have described.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2012 20:13
|
|
|
Even if you don't get rid of all the specialty malts, I'd reduce it down to Special B and Aromatic. Those two are most in line with the Belgian quad/strong dark style, and will impart the best flavors to one. Caramunich is okay, but not really necessary; biscuit is a bit further away, and chocolate malt honestly just doesn't belong there. If that's what you like to drink, go for it! But I don't think those three will really add much to the beer, and might just muddle up the malt profile.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2012 21:26
|
|
|
Completed the first step of my kegerator collar build today. Still have to drill holes for the taps and temperature controller, paint the thing, and reattach the lid.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2012 22:14
|
|
|
 fridge conversion buddy.Fermentation unit conversion complete. Before:  Hideous dented stainless steel with gunk and duct tape residue all over it. After:   It's just a piece of canvas I attached with spray adhesive. Had to scrape out some of the inside of the door for the bucket to fit completely. Also bent down the cooling element. It wouldn't have been in the way for my airlock but I thought it might be better to not have it right above it in case it caused the water to freeze. In the future I could easily turn this into a kegerator too if I wanted. Should get my thermostat in the next day or two, then I just gotta make more beer! 
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2012 23:51
|
|
|
My mom mentioned that there are some hop plants at our summer cabin. They may be wild, or planted for aesthetic purposes decades ago. I'll definitely be looking into trying them out in a brew if and when I get to visit. But what do you guys think of the idea? Obviously I can make hop tea out of dried cones and see how bitter and aromatic the stuff is, but are there ways to analyze hop suitability before going through with the whole harvesting process? Of course the drat plants could be hop-looking and nothing of the sort. Summer will tell.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 00:03
|
|
|
I think someone mentioned there were a few companies that will measure the Alpha acid rating of hop cones, but I can't advise you more then it's somewhere in this thread. My best advice would be to make tea/smell them an if they smell tasty, try to make a batch with them. Maybe do a 1 gallon.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 00:24
|
|
|
Sirotan posted:
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 01:13
|
|
|
Zakath posted:Looking good! How difficult was it to remove the stuff on the inside part of the door? Not hard at all. The plastic door attachment was connected with screws under the gasket. Unscrewed that, used my utility knife to cut all but the outer edge away. Then, I got this curved scraper tool from a hardware store, and just scraped off enough of the foam for the bucket to fit. That and re-covering the door with fabric took me less than two hours.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 01:25
|
|
|
Jo3sh posted:No, I am saying that I don't think the complex malt bill you had laid out is what I would do. Ubik posted:Even if you don't get rid of all the specialty malts, I'd reduce it down to Special B and Aromatic. Cool, thanks for the tips! We actually decided to go with saq's other quad recipe (the New World). But we did make that decision before we decided to split the mash, so maybe we'll switch it to the traditional to keep it simple for the sake of the parti-gyle. Or maybe we'll try it the other way for our next brew day and compare. Decisions, decisions....
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 02:43
|
|
|
I am doing a bit of a left over ingredients Cream Ale...quote:3.15# Pilsen LME I am still really new at making recipe's and was wondering if you guys had any feedback
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 06:23
|
|
|
ChiTownEddie posted:I am doing a bit of a left over ingredients Cream Ale... You won't be able to get any extract from the flaked corn and oats as the recipe stands. You need to do a partial mash with a pound or two of base malt to use those, otherwise you'll just be filling your beer with unfermentable starch. If you don't have any base malt, use some more extract to get to your target gravity. Aside from that, the recipe looks like something pretty simple and drinkable. Cutting down the honey malt to 0.25# might be a good idea to keep the sweetness down, especially since the malt extract won't attenuate as well as regular malt. Have any of you used caraway seed in a homebrew before? I have a project coming up that might make use of it, and I'd like to know if any of you have any experiences to share.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 07:51
|
|
|
Ubik posted:Have any of you used caraway seed in a homebrew before? I have a project coming up that might make use of it, and I'd like to know if any of you have any experiences to share. I would never use caraway seeds because they are what makes a good rye bread taste like poo poo - just my opinion. Question: I've come down with the feel-like-shits and I ground my grist already on Saturday - I know I've got to brew asap, but how long before it starts to wane?
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 12:05
|
|
|
My saison is a little under attenuated at 1.010. Would there be any harm in pitching a pack of EC-1118 to get it down a little more before I bottle it?
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 13:33
|
|
|
Thanks Ubik. The corn and yeast are the only things I don't have on hand, I had just heard that flaked corn is often used in cream ales haha. I'll just substitute it for a few lbs of pale two-row or something.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 15:54
|
|
|
internet celebrity posted:My saison is a little under attenuated at 1.010. Would there be any harm in pitching a pack of EC-1118 to get it down a little more before I bottle it? How warm have you been fermenting it? If you can push it up to the 80s it should dry out on its own, unless you've been doing that already at which point I'd have to ask what Saison yeast you're using and what your "grain-bill" and mash temps (if applicable) were. You can also just pitch in another packet of yeast and it should do the trick, no harm done, but if you have the means to warm up your fermenter I'd do that instead, Saison yeasts are typically very attenuative.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 16:31
|
|
|
Jacobey000 posted:I would never use caraway seeds because they are what makes a good rye bread taste like poo poo - just my opinion. I've aways heard that you have a couple of weeks before ground grain goes bad, longer if you keep it in an airtight temperature controlled container. I've only made one batch from pre-ground grain and didn't see a problem, and it was a week or two old at that point. I'd use it as soon as it's feasable, but it isn't like it will go bad like old milk.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 16:46
|
|
|
I've gone a couple months before using crushed grain; it was stored in a ziploc bag inside the 5gal cooler I no longer use.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 18:01
|
|
|
Have been around the kitchen making something close to this (http://beertools.com/html/recipe.php?view=11852) today. Doing all grain without a false bottom kettle is a pain in the rear end. Creative use of cheesecloth. On the bright side, after extracting the grain and before bringing to a boil I took a quick taste and it is pretty goddamn tasty already. e; I can't decide if its even worth going with any other all grain recipes until I get a proper kettle with a false bottom and out valve. Is there any way I can do 5 gallon all grain batches otherwise? I have 2 8 gallon pots and assorted gadgets. Seems like my options are do it as I just did it today or spend $5-10 on those mesh bags to hold all of the grain to be fished out. Nephzinho fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Apr 23, 2012 |
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 19:40
|
|
|
Made an American brown ale yesterday, it smells delicious! This was my second all grain batch and will be the first batch we run with secondary fermentation. The grain bill was: 9lb british 2 row 1lb cara-40 6oz chocolate Mashed for an hour at 152f 60mins 1.5 oz wilamette, 1lb brown sugar 45mins 1 tsp Irish moss 5mins .5 oz wilamette Pitched with a British ale yeast, fermenting along happily now at about 72f. Life was much easier having modified a water cooler to keep the mash at temp, rather than turning heat on & off for an hour to try and keep constant.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2012 21:53
|
|
|
PokeJoe posted:Is there any real point to using a glass carboy? I've always fermented in buckets but I got a carboy in that kit I won and I don't know what I would ever do with it. Maybe I'll make some mead and leave it in a closet forever. Sours.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2012 01:55
|
|
|
PokeJoe posted:Is there any real point to using a glass carboy? I've always fermented in buckets but I got a carboy in that kit I won and I don't know what I would ever do with it. Maybe I'll make some mead and leave it in a closet forever. I am getting caught out on my brew schedule because I am not following my own advice on this matter and having a pipeline of stuff ready to go for when running out conspires with being busy.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2012 02:38
|
|
|
indigi posted:Sours. I've actually got a sour already chilling out in a bucket next to the empty carboy. It seemed to stop fermenting after two days but a gravity reading says it still has about 10 points left in it. Also the sample tasted delicious. What's the advantage of using the glass for the sour?
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2012 03:15
|
|
|
Less oxygen permeability for the 12-24 month sitting time and they're unlikely to scratch while cleaning so you can use it for regular beers in addition to sours. You could use a Better Bottle for this as well if you're gentle while cleaning it. I got my carboys for less than equivalent-sized PET bottles so I went with them, but basically between the two it just comes down to which you can get for cheaper in terms of benefits. They're a bit heavier than plastic but that's pretty far down on my list of priorities.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2012 03:28
|
|
|
PokeJoe posted:I've actually got a sour already chilling out in a bucket next to the empty carboy. It seemed to stop fermenting after two days but a gravity reading says it still has about 10 points left in it. Also the sample tasted delicious. What's the advantage of using the glass for the sour? You're able to clean it and use it for things other than sours. Plus headspace. Taking a gravity or sample reading will introduce a lot less oxygen in a carboy than a bucket. Also, you can't see the beer without opening it if that bothers you. I don't think it's conclusive on whether you can age a sour beer in a bucket for several years and be all right, but someone people have done it for a year and got decent results. I recently got bit by the sour bug and have teamed up with a friend to do several. I hope to get up to 8-10 sours going by the end of summer and I've also thought about getting a 55 gallon wine barrel. Does anyone have any experience with barrels? It seems like a no brainer if I have the space to buy a $100 barrel instead of buying $300 worth of carboys. I'd have to team up with several brewers to fill the thing, but otherwise it seems ideal.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2012 03:30
|
|
|
But you'll have only one beer instead of 8-10. First post in a long time, im going to brew tomorrow for the first time since October! I'm gonna make 10 gals of wort using 2-row and a pinch of crystal (5%). Magnum at 60 min to about 30 IBUs. Then 3-4 total oz of Simcoe and Amarillo at flameout. Gonna pitch Chico in one bucket for an APA and 3711 in the other for a saison  . Also gonna dry hop the pale with a couple more ounces.Ahhh feels good to be back Edit: a couple of posts from a couple weeks ago I wanted to address Midorka posted:I don't really have an ABV in mind, probably something lower in all honesty to make sure it's not too hot by December. It needs to be highly drinkable for a homebrew competition in December, so something at 12% might not be fully ready then. If you ferment your beer properly, the ABV wont really affect your time frame. I fermented a 10.5% stout in 30 hours and was drinking it outta the keg 2 weeks after brew day. Keep your internal fermentation temps around 64-66* and it won't get hot (fusel alcohols) no matter how high ABV it is. Also make sure to pitch a ton of yeast. I racked onto a cake from a 6% porter and fermented the stout at 61* and did not aerate whatsoever, yet it was completely done in less than 2 days. In retrospect I would have pitched 1/3 or 1/2 of the yeast cake instead of the whole thing. Scythe posted:Making a hoppy saison to celebrate the early hot temperatures in NYC. I'm pretty excited about it. With those mash temps I bet you'll be closer to 1.00 than 1.0. I brewed a 1.042 OG saison mashed at 151* and it went down to 0.98! It had a Krausen for over 2 weeks and had the longest apparent fermentation of any brew I've made. Just noticed your fermenting this beer hot. You may still me okay if you can keep it under 85*. This yeast doesn't require hot temps, mine maxed out at 78* an attenuated hella far. Some people in the HBT French saison megathread have fermented this guy hot and said it stays composed and flavorful and doesn't become the devils' whiskey like American yeasts above 72*. O snap! Just realized it's time to get cracking on a Marzen. I started brewing Christmas 2010 and wasn't ready to have an octoberfest lager ready by fall. I swore I would do one the next season and I'm already a month behind! Time to start researching recipes. tesilential fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Apr 24, 2012 |
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2012 04:29
|
|
|
haven't brewed since December really - wow. group of friends going to rent a beachhouse on memorial day, we got drunk last weekend, started talking about it, and it clicked in my head that I could brew a keg in record time for our trip. picked up grain today and brewed a batch of relatively generic wheat ale - 6lbs 2row, 3lbs white wheat, 1lb 10l crystal with about 1.5oz a mix of cascade and hallertau hops. 1.048 on the dot, and two packs of safeale 05 are doing the job at 62deg. (hope this isn't too low for a quick ferment...) I meant to add coriander and lemon zest to my brew - guess it's too late for that now though! anyways, good times ahoy - the brew took just 3.5 hours, minimal mess, no stuck mashes - I've got this poo poo down to a science. feels good to get back in the swing of things, and I look like a champ with mah bros. god bless home brewing!
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2012 07:26
|
|
|
So I went to hook up the CO2 to my corny keg and the ball lock doesn't seem to want to fit? I had to really fidget with the thing to get the gas flowing, it sounds/feels like there is a leak, and it really doesn't want to connect. Most videos of putting the thing together show the ball lock go right on. I put the connection back together, I think the poppet is a little crooked? Not really sure how to go about troubleshooting this. e; Yeah, I've assembled this thing correctly and it just doesn't want to work. Think I'll grab fresh o-rings and some spare poppits and see if swapping those out does it. If I remove the poppit entirely the connector slides right on. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006C4WJ1G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=AEUC6GAA8XY7Y is what came in my keg, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UHYIS0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=AM2GJR3OYQUWI is on amazon and appears to be a bit sturdier. Thoughts? Nephzinho fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Apr 24, 2012 |
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2012 13:14
|
|
|
zerox147o posted:
I bought reconditioned kegs, and poppits were a big issue for me. All of mine had the second type you linked above, and you should definitely get them. But, on my kegs, the feet of the poppits were slightly bent, and my kegs never really sealed properly until I replaced almost all my poppits, redid all the o-rings, and on one I even had to change out the beer out diptube. Don't hesitate to get new parts if you think they might be causing an issue. worst case scenario, you spent 4 bucks and ensured the safety of a $40 batch of beer.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2012 16:45
|
|
|
mindphlux posted:I bought reconditioned kegs, and poppits were a big issue for me. All of mine had the second type you linked above, and you should definitely get them. But, on my kegs, the feet of the poppits were slightly bent, and my kegs never really sealed properly until I replaced almost all my poppits, redid all the o-rings, and on one I even had to change out the beer out diptube. Thanks. Will get on that then. Going to just order a bunch of extras too as I have 2 additional kegs in the mail on their way. Working my way up to have a 4 tap keggerator. Just kind of throwing 1 more piece into every batch order. Currently have a brown ale in the keg waiting to be carbed, a pilsner lagering in the fridge, an american pale ale sitting in primary, and ingredients for another APA that will pitch on top of the yeast cake from the previous one as that moves to secondary. Should've moved away from 1 gallons ages ago 
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2012 16:58
|
|
|
zerox147o posted:e; I can't decide if its even worth going with any other all grain recipes until I get a proper kettle with a false bottom and out valve. Is there any way I can do 5 gallon all grain batches otherwise? I have 2 8 gallon pots and assorted gadgets. Seems like my options are do it as I just did it today or spend $5-10 on those mesh bags to hold all of the grain to be fished out. Buy this. I got mine for $20ish at Walmart. Then go to home depot or wherever and buy this and this. Remove the spout from the igloo, save the o ring, and attach the valve. Took me about 20 minutes, mostly because I was putting the o ring in the wrong spot, but it worked out great. When it was time to drain and then sparge I just put a strainer over my pot, but surprisingly little grain came through, and the wort flowed great. Made my life way easier.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2012 22:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 18:17 |
|
|
Hayden posted:Buy this. I got mine for $20ish at Walmart.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2012 23:08
|
|