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Young Freud posted:Man, I've got a hard decision. Everything is coming together, but I'm really trying to make a decision on whether to get spend almost $2k on a Utilmaker or buy a cheaper Thing-O-Matic MakerBot or Replicator. My Ultimaker should arrive within a week or two. You could just chill and wait for my trip report. I'd be happy to explore any issues your worried about or even try a model. I got the NetFabb software as well although lots of people do just find without. Cura (aka skeinpypy) is super popular right now.
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Apr 18, 2012 18:00
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And for anyone that hasn't used it before, even if you're not using the pro version of netfabb for slicing, the free basic version is invaluable for cutting or repairing models.
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Apr 18, 2012 22:04
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So does anyone in-thread offer laser services? It would be nice to start helping each other get machines built...
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Apr 19, 2012 12:08
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SpiDeR posted:So does anyone in-thread offer laser services? It would be nice to start helping each other get machines built...
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Apr 19, 2012 19:48
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peepsalot posted:Your best bet is probably joining a local hackerspace and using theirs if they have one. Does this exist in the US outside of Techshops (which there are only a couple of)? How do I go about finding something like that locally?
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Apr 19, 2012 20:30
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Splizwarf posted:Does this exist in the US outside of Techshops (which there are only a couple of)? How do I go about finding something like that locally? There are hackerspaces in every major urban area in the US: http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/List_of_ALL_Hacker_Spaces
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Apr 19, 2012 21:50
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Thank you much, looks like there's something local even.
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Apr 19, 2012 21:56
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Two places, 200 miles away... one with a laser! The ATL place seemed obsessed with feeding Occupy ATL.
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Apr 20, 2012 02:33
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Weee, finally got the shipment notice for my Ultimaker! What should be the first thing I print?
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Apr 21, 2012 06:22
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A shot glass to toast your success.
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Apr 21, 2012 06:34
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Weee, finally got the shipment notice for my Ultimaker!  I need somewhere to host this the OBJ file, though.
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Apr 21, 2012 06:35
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Weee, finally got the shipment notice for my Ultimaker! A calibration cube.
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Apr 21, 2012 07:32
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Just make sure you're mentally prepared for failure, because the chance of screwing up the hot end and being unable to print anything reliably is pretty high. Let us know if you're stuck on something, I've been following the google group for a while and am familiar with most of the pitfalls now. Right away the biggest thing to look out for is this step: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev.3_assembly:_Extrusion_head#Step_4_-_the_EXTRUDER Where it says exactly 8mm try 9mm. A freshly assembled machine will have parts settling for the first several hours of operation, so an 8mm protrusion is almost guaranteed to slip out of the PEEK insulator and cause a plastic plug to form inside it. With some additional tube sticking out you can just tighten the screws on the print head a couple turns after each test print, to make sure the PEEK and tube is still firmly pushed together (but not TOO hard, the tube will bend and cause friction) Also go order the UltiController addon right away 
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Apr 21, 2012 09:37
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error1 posted:Just make sure you're mentally prepared for failure, because the chance of screwing up the hot end and being unable to print anything reliably is pretty high. Yea, I've been following a lot of the discussions about those issues on the google group. I hope it turns out well  Funny thing about the UltiController. I found out about it they day they announced it and emailed them to have it added to my order. Since it didn't ship yet I was hoping to save on shipping. A couple hours later I got the shipping notification after 5+ weeks of waiting  Incidentally, I consider my "first print" to be the first geeky thing I print after getting some decent calibration cubes out of the thing. I suppose the shot glass would be the traditional thing to print.
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Apr 21, 2012 20:14
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So I just looked up prices on both Shapeways and Ponoko for making a coin holder, and the prices just seemed absolutely exorbitant. I wanna do a comparison: how much would it cost you to print this using ABS?
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Apr 22, 2012 07:57
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ImperialGuard posted:So I just looked up prices on both Shapeways and Ponoko for making a coin holder, and the prices just seemed absolutely exorbitant. I wanna do a comparison: how much would it cost you to print this using ABS? About $2 Videodrome fucked around with this message at 12:50 on Apr 22, 2012 |
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Apr 22, 2012 12:38
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ImperialGuard posted:So I just looked up prices on both Shapeways and Ponoko for making a coin holder, and the prices just seemed absolutely exorbitant. I wanna do a comparison: how much would it cost you to print this using ABS? You could cut the prices substantially by hollowing out most of the middle.
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Apr 22, 2012 18:33
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Zhentar posted:You could cut the prices substantially by hollowing out most of the middle. Do Shapeways/Ponoko let you specify an infill %?
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Apr 22, 2012 19:48
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Videodrome posted:Do Shapeways/Ponoko let you specify an infill %? Shapeways doesn't and I'm not sure if Ponoko would. Infill is mostly an FDM concept, it wouldn't work well with SLS because the powder would be trapped inside. Just do a couple boolean operations to get something like below. You could get even fancier and get the interior to follow the profile but I just subtracted two cylinders, a 32 sided one and an 8 sided one. 
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Apr 22, 2012 20:17
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ImperialGuard posted:So I just looked up prices on both Shapeways and Ponoko for making a coin holder, and the prices just seemed absolutely exorbitant. I wanna do a comparison: how much would it cost you to print this using ABS? Before you run off and have this printed, please be aware that the holes are about .5mm too small for a US penny. I'd go ahead and make them a whole 1mm larger (in diameter), just to be sure the pennies easily fall all the way down.
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Apr 22, 2012 21:14
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Weee, finally got the shipment notice for my Ultimaker! It was a LONG time before I could actually print a shotglass that held liquid. My inability to print a functioning traditional celebratory 1st print shotglass was - unknown to me at the time - powerfully symbolic of the world of 3D printing that I had chosen to enter. 
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Apr 22, 2012 22:40
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Shapeways doesn't and I'm not sure if Ponoko would. Infill is mostly an FDM concept, it wouldn't work well with SLS because the powder would be trapped inside. Shapeways actually checks hollow structures for holes that the powder can drain out of. If you don't have a drain hole, then they charge you for a solid structure anyway.
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Apr 23, 2012 15:30
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It's alive!!! Still some issues but I'm happy as can be. For as loose as I think my belts are, there seems to be few backlash related issues. However, flow rate needs to be dialed in as this guy doesn't quite hold water and there are blobbing issues on the inside. Any ideas why I'm getting those striations on the outside every 6 mm? (kind of faint in this picture, but they're there) My z-axis feels quite smooth but every 6 mm it begins to squish a couple layers creating that bulge. I still need to learn the tricks of the software. I used Cura for this but the path seemed... not ideal. When doing the sides of the cup it'd do two rings for the inside and two rings for the outside and rapidly vibrate in place trying to zigzag in the .5mm gap between the inner and outer rings. It'd also do some odd movements when switching to the opposite side of the model to do infill oozing as it went instead of just going full circle. Probably due to pathing logic that makes sense on anything but rings but still.
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Apr 25, 2012 18:45
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Saw a link to Solidoodle: http://store.solidoodle.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=56 I like the idea of pre-made and the price is nice. Anyone got one and can comment? (Well, anyone got the 1st gen since this is a pre-order for 2nd gen?)
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Apr 25, 2012 19:15
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Mister Sinewave posted:Saw a link to Solidoodle: http://store.solidoodle.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=56 Looks like the resolution is really low though, website cites it as .3mm (300um)- but depending on application that may still be perfectly fine. Here is a video of one in action- does not look too bad: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhULZQaT-Hs Linux Assassin fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Apr 25, 2012 |
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Apr 25, 2012 23:18
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6" cube build area is pretty nice. Also 0.3mm actual would be more useful to me than 0.003mm theoretical (just pulling numbers out of the air as an example.)I now regularly butt up against the limitations of my Makerbot cupcake and it's not build resolution nearly as often as it is plain junk like build size, etc.
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Apr 25, 2012 23:29
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Mister Sinewave posted:6" cube build area is pretty nice. Very good points- this is seemingly a 'works out of the box' type deal, in the sub $800 range, with decent enough resolution that you could at least determine if more resolution would be worth the hair pulling of maintaining a more accurate machine.
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Apr 26, 2012 05:53
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$550 + postage to the uk is very tempting for an out-the-box printer with 6" x 6" x 6" envelope & hbp. The only hold back is the "we'll charge you straight away & send you a printer at some point in the future" part. Edit: they claim 0.3mm typical for a fast/smooth print, possible to print at 0.1mm if required 
cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Apr 26, 2012 |
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Apr 26, 2012 07:53
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Cakefool posted:Edit: they claim 0.3mm typical for a fast/smooth print, possible to print at 0.1mm if required
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Apr 26, 2012 16:41
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Obsurveyor posted:Just keep in mind they aren't using a .1mm nozzle so you're not going to get .1mm features. You're always going to be limited by the size of the nozzle as far as feature resolution. Just to clarify, we're dealing with 3 dimensions. The X and Y resolution are nozzle dependent and the Z resolution is based on the layer thickness. I suspect most of those references are to layer thickness.
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Apr 26, 2012 19:56
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Obsurveyor posted:Just keep in mind they aren't using a .1mm nozzle so you're not going to get .1mm features. You're always going to be limited by the size of the nozzle as far as feature resolution. kafkasgoldfish posted:Just to clarify, we're dealing with 3 dimensions. The X and Y resolution are nozzle dependent and the Z resolution is based on the layer thickness. I suspect most of those references are to layer thickness. Not true- the minimum size of an extrusion might be nozzle dependent, but that does not mean that you can't put the outer edge of that extrusion at a very precise point (this is in fact I believe how the ultimaker achieves such high resolution despite still using 3mm plastic; it is very 'aware' of how far the plastic will bulge from the extruder once well tuned). For example your extruder might only be able to lay down a .5mm tube of plastic, but because you have an extremely well tuned printer you can law down that tube of plastic with .02mm (20um) accuracy- you would therefore be able to print a ring with a 30cm radius, .5mm thick (minimum size tube of plastic you can lay down), that will over its entire circumference be off less then 40um (potentially 20um on one side, and 20um in the opposite direction on the other).
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Apr 26, 2012 20:40
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Linux Assassin posted:For example your extruder might only be able to lay down a .5mm tube of plastic, but because you have an extremely well tuned printer you can law down that tube of plastic with .02mm (20um) accuracy- you would therefore be able to print a ring with a 30cm radius, .5mm thick (minimum size tube of plastic you can lay down), that will over its entire circumference be off less then 40um (potentially 20um on one side, and 20um in the opposite direction on the other). "Print at .1mm" is a loaded statement, so you have to be very clear about what that means and what it doesn't mean. I guess I wasn't.
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Apr 26, 2012 22:39
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Linux Assassin posted:Not true- the minimum size of an extrusion might be nozzle dependent, but that does not mean that you can't put the outer edge of that extrusion at a very precise point (this is in fact I believe how the ultimaker achieves such high resolution despite still using 3mm plastic; it is very 'aware' of how far the plastic will bulge from the extruder once well tuned). I don't think they're talking about accuracy but resolution. I say this mainly because even basic cartesian CNC systems can achieve better than 0.1mm accuracy. Obsurveyor posted:But you couldn't have .1mm raised script which is what I was talking about. I guess accuracy would get you smaller negative relief features in some cases but you would never be able to get positive features smaller than the nozzle itself. yea, what he said ^ kafkasgoldfish fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Apr 26, 2012 |
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Apr 26, 2012 23:17
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The Solidoodle2's price point was enough to finally make me take the plunge. I ordered the 'pro model' with the case and clear door (650 with shipping). The kid in me is excited about a toy that makes other toys.
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Apr 27, 2012 07:05
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Just to be clear, they're not shipping yet are they? I have a bonus coming in a month that I promised I would waste on a toy for myself & with the USD->GBP exchange at the moment the solidoodle is perfect. I'm just not sure I'm comfortable letting them charge my CC & sitting back waiting on a nonexistent deadline.
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Apr 27, 2012 08:56
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Makerbot news everyone. They've sold out of Thing-o-matic kits, and are no longer offering it for sale. It's Replicator or nothing now. I'm sure you'd like to read the blog post about it yourself. Obsurveyor posted:But you couldn't have .1mm raised script which is what I was talking about. I guess accuracy would get you smaller negative relief features in some cases but you would never be able to get positive features smaller than the nozzle itself. This isn't exactly true, while the plastic is extruded out of a moving nozzle, it can stretch and thin. I guess it goes back to exactly how you're defining smaller too, because a long thin individual strip of plastic would still be larger than the nozzle in one dimension, while being smaller in another. You can also squish the layer of plastic being deposited to a thinner layer height than the nozzle opening. How far you can push this is still dependent on nozzle diameter. Cakefool posted:Edit: they claim 0.3mm typical for a fast/smooth print, possible to print at 0.1mm if required (Assuming they're talking layer height) ?People have been doing .1mm for a while. The real excitement is .04mm on a ultimaker. There's also this set of people going down to around .02mm on an ultimaker again. The standard ultimaker nozzle is .4mm. No notes on different nozzles. Or possibly .01mm on a prusa. The prusa doesn't note a special nozzle either, so there's a good chance it's just the standard .35mm nozzle that goes with it's kit. I suppose it might be good for the price. It's been quite some time since I've comparison shopped on that angle.
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Apr 27, 2012 09:43
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It's not just price, although it's a steal if it's reliable & works out the box, it's also the decent resolution (i know insane resolution is possible but the effort/reward ratio gets nuts) & buying an appliance, not a kit/hobby for the next 3 months. I want the fun & adventure of owning & using a printer, I don't want the fun & adventure of trying to get the damned thing running. Any time I think "ooh, I could just print that (solution to this problem)" I've made a note, there's dozens of things I could print right away.
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Apr 27, 2012 09:48
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Cakefool posted:It's not just price, although it's a steal if it's reliable & works out the box, it's also the decent resolution (i know insane resolution is possible but the effort/reward ratio gets nuts) & buying an appliance, not a kit/hobby for the next 3 months. I want the fun & adventure of owning & using a printer, I don't want the fun & adventure of trying to get the damned thing running. It's worth noting that right now my main issue is the software. It took me about 8 to assemble my Ultimaker and get to a print but I've been spending days now trying different apps because they all do it slightly differently and you get differing results. Not dissuading you from your Solidoodle but just pointing out that this style of 3d printer may not be at 'appliance' mode yet, I suspect there will be a healthy amount of tweaking involved even with the pre-built ones. Then again, I don't have a Solidoodle, maybe they've figured out all of those issues and deliver it with software that solves those problems for them... It's worth researching.
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Apr 27, 2012 15:44
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I got my Hadron ORD Bot kit up and printing this weekend: The wiring is a bit of a mess until I have time to take it all apart, drill holes in the extrusions and hide it all. I am going to wait until I get some stuff out of it as-is though. I am using IMPLA(impact modified PLA, it has rubber in it) and blue tape with an unheated bed. The springs make the bed wobble too much when this thing moves fast(and it can move really fast) so I need to replace those with standoffs. I also got some glass to put on top because PCBs aren't very flat by themselves. The trivase I printed came out pretty well but there is definitely some Z wobble from the solid couplings(they should have been flexible couplings-split style).  I got kind of lucky with this one. I still need to do a lot of tweaking for wider objects with longer perimeters.
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Apr 29, 2012 22:15
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I have a question about the ABS plastic used in 3D printing, and that is: Are all abs plastics the same? While looking around online I've seen spools of it called different things, 'natural abs' or 'abs filament' and so on. I've also seen price differences on what appears to me to be all the same. Also where is a good place to order it online?
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May 1, 2012 03:31
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