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My right turn signal started being intermittent, and the left one stopped working altogether. The switch was filthy, so I cleaned it, and now the right signal is less intermittent, but the left still doesn't work. I took the tail off and am going to go through the mass of free-air-taped splices from the PO's fender eliminator. If everything is OK, then a new flasher relay, I guess. Or not use signals anymore. I'm kinda either way, really.
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Apr 28, 2012 01:46
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MotoMind posted:Stuff a plastic bag in the cam chain tunnel, but leave some sticking out so you can remove it easily and don't forget it in there. That's generally a pretty good advice. It's not really needed here though, since you don't have to gently caress around with shims and poo poo on that bike. The only thing at risk for being dropped down there would be an 8mm. wrench or a beer capsule. An 8mm wrench won't fit in there, but a beer capsule might. Drinking canned beer while performing the art will probably keep you just as safe as the plastic bag trick. There's no way you can brute-force a beer-can down the cam chain tunnel.... I think. drat, I might have to test that.
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Apr 28, 2012 10:15
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I should have considered the plastic bag trick when I was rebuilding the headset and stem...then I wouldn't have had to fish around inside the front down tube with a magnet on a stick to get the balls back out 
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Apr 28, 2012 16:48
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Adjusted the CCT on the 636 in. Now it doesn't tick at all and has a sight whine, but I won't have to listen to any more wannabe stunters tell me "Yo your motor is knocking bro".
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Apr 28, 2012 19:51
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Mounted a Pelican Storm iM2620 topcase on the KLR: http://www.pelican-case.com/im2620.html I calculated that the Pelican Storm was the perfect size to store a pair of boots, my Roadcrafter, and gloves. It's a very nice balance of length, height, and width. The only downside is a pair of recesses for the wheels, which I did not consider in my measurements. Because of those recesses, it's limited to storing touring boots at the very bottom; tall MX boots do not fit so well. For prep, I removed the roller and handle assembly, and removed the middle set of mounting nipples using a wood saw. I then unbolted the plastic deck from the KLR rear rack to use as a template. The placement I chose had the frontmost part of the deck lined up with the edge of the case. While I held it tightly in place I heated up a screwdriver and inserted it through the template and into the plastic of the case, creating a set of neatly placed holes. Then it was a matter of flexing everything into alignment, a job made more difficult by the presence of side racks. On the upside, those side racks will help reinforce the stock top rack, which isn't rated for much more than 20 lbs. The primary downside to any topcase is that in case of a direct rear-end accident there's a high risk of paralysis for a passenger; slightly less so for the driver. I can easily imagine a severe lumbar fracture over the edge of a case. Pictures tomorrow. Edit: This was a one-beer job, but took two beers because of random frustrations involved in working on the sidewalk. Final rating: 
MotoMind fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Apr 29, 2012 |
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Apr 29, 2012 05:13
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I pulled the rear wheel from the '82 XJ650. It's time to start the tire swap. The trickier question is the final drive oil seal. Has anyone here ever done one? The Haynes manual doesn't have any info on how to do it, nor do I see anything on xjbikes.com. Basically: do I need to open the case? Given the non-serviceability of these units, I don't want to go in deeper than necessary on what is currently a working item.
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Apr 29, 2012 05:41
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Mounted up a Michelin T63 in 110/80-18. Let it soften up in the sun for 2 hours and it slid right on, even though the first step was to seat the whole rim inside the tire (I'm using Tubliss so you can't reach over the inner tube). Took surprisingly little air to get it up to pressure. Should spin up nicely, probably a better fit for the 250's powerplant than a 120 or 130 tire. 130/90-18 Michelin MT21 for comparison. It took about 2 hours to do, largely because I needed to be very delicate with the Tubliss liner and made sure I got everything as clean as possible. It's bad ju ju if you nick the liner while removing or installing the tire or have crap in there. Rating: 0 beers. Tire changes, oil changes, and air filter cleaning are routine and don't receive a beer rating.
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Apr 29, 2012 22:13
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Made some progress on the track SV. Put the rear end together then started working on the wiring. Soldered it up, put it roughly in place then started trying to get it working...still have a lot of work.
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Apr 30, 2012 14:50
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Working on 125's is a pain in the rear end! Everything around the engine on my little YZF R-125 just seems to be crammed into the smallest area possible, with no thought at all given to how the gently caress you'd get access to anything! I Gave the bike its 14k mile valve check and an overdue oil, filter and spark plug change over the weekend. It was my first time doing a valve check so I gave myself plenty of time, which proved to be well needed! Got all 10 pieces of the fairing jigsaw off the sides of the bike in about 30mins, then removed the tank. I was greeted by the smallest amount of access to the head cover I could ever imagine. I got everything I could easily move out of the way and was left with this:   I could barely get my hand in there, let alone get any decent access to the head cover's bolts! An hour later I managed to get the bolts loose enough to unscrew by hand. I managed to get to the exhaust side with a spanner through a gap on either side between the frame and the radiator, and could get a small socket extension to the intake side. After being so much of a pain in the rear end to get to, I finally get the feeler gauge in there and....they're slightly on the tight side, but still well within spec. Not a single adjustment needed.  gently caress you bike, gently caress you.
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Apr 30, 2012 14:59
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Sagebrush posted:I should have considered the plastic bag trick when I was rebuilding the headset and stem...then I wouldn't have had to fish around inside the front down tube with a magnet on a stick to get the balls back out This is much less fun when you drop something non-ferrous down in there.
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Apr 30, 2012 15:49
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Pinny posted:
After removing the carbs on an R6 I've pretty much vowed never to touch another modern sportbike. I'm sticking with my vintage Hondas.
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Apr 30, 2012 15:51
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What did I do to my bike today? I bought it. 1975 CB125  This thing is loving cute. I'll try to snap some pictures tonight.
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Apr 30, 2012 15:57
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:What did I do to my bike today? I have a 74 125S I'd challenge you to a race, but I'd clearly win 
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Apr 30, 2012 15:59
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:After removing the carbs on an R6 I've pretty much vowed never to touch another modern sportbike. I'm sticking with my vintage Hondas. The money saved by doing it myself was far outweighed by the amount of frustration it caused for those few hours. I'm glad I did it, as now I won't be so reluctant to tackle things like that in the future, but my god it'll be tempting to just go "gently caress it" and put it in the shop instead of wasting the better part of a Saturday afternoon.
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Apr 30, 2012 16:32
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Spiffness posted:I have a 74 125S
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Apr 30, 2012 16:35
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Pinny posted:The money saved by doing it myself was far outweighed by the amount of frustration it caused for those few hours. I'm glad I did it, as now I won't be so reluctant to tackle things like that in the future, but my god it'll be tempting to just go "gently caress it" and put it in the shop instead of wasting the better part of a Saturday afternoon. The first time is always the slowest. As you work on them more and more you'll get faster and faster at handling maintenance.
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Apr 30, 2012 16:44
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:What did I do to my bike today? You still don't have the 360 going, you jackass.
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Apr 30, 2012 19:38
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I replaced the dry clutch assembly on my Monster. The old basket and pack had 25,000 miles on it and was starting to slip pretty bad. I broke one of the posts off the hub earlier and was running with 4 springs instead of 6 for a while. I got a new aluminum pack, and slightly used aluminum basket and hub. The whole job took about two hours, since I was going slow. The only thing I didn't have was a torque wrench that went to 150 ft-lb, mine only goes to 75. After borrowing it from the neighbor I was good to go. It's hard to believe how sloppy the engagement was compared to new. It also cleared up the bucking at slow speeds in 1st and 2nd. It's also a lot quieter now, but you still know it's a dry clutch.
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Apr 30, 2012 20:19
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I discovered that a 1-3/4" rubber expansion plug is a nearly perfect fit for the starter motor fitting on my CL350. So, I finally got rid of it, having already removed the starter sprocket and chain and all the electronics that control it. It was squealing and since the bike starts just great with the kick, eh, who needs the extra 10 pounds? Now the front of the engine is quite a bit more open and clean-looking, with just a little brass disc where the starter was. Neato. Also, I lubed up some nipples and twisted them good and tight. One wheel is now trued up and the other is getting there. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:56 on May 1, 2012 |
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May 1, 2012 04:45
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Bucephalus posted:You still don't have the 360 going, you jackass. haha that's gonna take a backseat to the 125 now. I want a bike to teach the GF to ride on. neither should take all that long to get back on the road. the guy also threw in 2 CB360 tanks to sweeten the deal. I might put one on the 125 just to be awesome. BOTH the 360 and 125 have new tires and decent brakes though. I've been getting awesome deals on bikes lately.
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May 1, 2012 15:39
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I threw some race carbs on there and started it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rP-k-f-D6iE Yeah I know I sound like a nitwit.
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May 2, 2012 02:01
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I changed the oil, bike last got it's oil changed 6k KM ago. The oil was just pure black ... bike runs a hell of a lot better now.
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May 2, 2012 02:29
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I threw some race carbs on there and started it. I know they generally don't run for poo poo but I love the sound of pod filters or open intakes.
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May 2, 2012 02:58
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Z3n posted:I know they generally don't run for poo poo but I love the sound of pod filters or open intakes. Holy hell me too  I don't know if that's necessarily true about them not running well, but the logic certainly holds water. I give them my fair share of poo poo when people ask me if they should put them on their bikes. They don't run too well on stock bikes or with stock carbs but they've been nothing short of spectacular on my CR29's. Even going fast or when it's windy I've not had a problem. well... not until it rained hard and a bunch of water got in the motor on the way home. 
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May 2, 2012 03:30
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I threw some race carbs on there and started it. Oh my god, I haven't heard anything that sounds that awesome in so long. Revving the motor made my stomach move! Is it bad that I just got my first bike and I really want something like a CB750 to wrench on. I have a decent tool set and I've done some work on cars before, but never on any carb'd motors (totally not against it though). There's not much I can do to the Ninja 250 and I don't want to throw too much cash at it from the start since it runs perfectly and is basically new.
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May 2, 2012 03:37
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Forks off. The bike is resting on a stack of foam bricks, since I couldn't leave enough weight on the tail to get it to stand up that way. Taking the forks to a shop for service tomorrow. The shop is actually really good. Only about 5% more expensive than the internet on tires, and free install. Randomly good prices on other parts, too. Also, the flasher shorted out my console today. I flipped the blinker on to pass a cop, and lost my dials  . I also lost the neutral and oil lights, but the bright indicator still came on.I replaced the fuse and decided to not use the blinkers anymore.
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May 2, 2012 04:19
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Changed oil. Overfilled very slightly it turns out after a 10 mile test ride. This bike has the most convoluted oil change procedure ever. Unfortunately I think my battery is dying. I replaced it about 6 months ago so its a little unexpected. The last few times I've taken it out starting has been a bit harder. Today after riding for about 5 miles and stopping for gas it needed 3 attempts at starting. The first did nothing, the second turned it over and the third time fired up. At least I think it is the battery because this is the same behavior as I saw last time before I replaced the battery, and it went away afterwards. Got a 3 day trip lined up for this weekend so I am hoping the shop I bought the battery from will warranty it.
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May 2, 2012 05:25
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Oh my god, I haven't heard anything that sounds that awesome in so long. Revving the motor made my stomach move! Thank you for this. I'm grinning ear to ear. Once it get it out and broken in I'll try and record some 8k rpms. 5000rpm is really where the fun begins. My 1977 CB750 was the first bike I bought. It was perfect. It's a little bit more expensive, and difficult than a twin (there's about twice as many parts to buy basically), but I never regretted it. The SOHC motors are so incredibly simple and there's such a wealth of info and support that it's a perfect first bike to wrench on. If you want to get a head start, head on over to http://forums.sohc4.net/ If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 05:38 on May 2, 2012 |
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May 2, 2012 05:36
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Wiring on the track bike figured out...still needs to be cleaned up, wrapped and put in place. Tossed the carbs on and connected all the throttle cables. If time allows tonight I'll see if it will start.
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May 2, 2012 13:43
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Thank you for this. I'm grinning ear to ear. Has the SOHC world figured out how to stop that drat headgasket leak yet? That was the thing that annoyed me the most about my old CB750
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May 2, 2012 15:52
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Finally sorted out my fuel overflow issue. Turns out I had a combination of badly cut bowl gaskets that sometimes snagged the floats and a couple of wrongly sized washers on the needle valve seats that leaked fuel into the bowl bypassing the drat needle valve. Now that the fuel flow is sorted out, I can finish the paintwork on my other tank and ride again. W00t!
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May 2, 2012 19:07
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GanjamonII posted:Changed oil. Overfilled very slightly it turns out after a 10 mile test ride. This bike has the most convoluted oil change procedure ever. Well the battery tested out fine. I cleaned the +ve terminal when I re-installed it with a wire brush as it was crusty as gently caress and now it starts as soon as I even think of pushing the button. In fact just typing this post out probably made it start, even though its 10 miles away from me. I hope I didn't leave it in gear. I'm a little concerned that something else is up, but I'll ride it around till it breaks again I guess. Or maybe it was some random quirk. It is Italian after all.
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May 2, 2012 19:23
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Olde Weird Tip posted:Has the SOHC world figured out how to stop that drat headgasket leak yet? Yeah, get a decent head gasket and get proper engine studs. The stockers are poo poo. http://cbrzone.com/sohc.html http://dynoman.net/engine/studs.html If it still leaks deck your cyls or head; one is most likely warped.
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May 2, 2012 19:38
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Installed a legal tail light, blinkers front and back, plus mirrors. Maybe now it will actual pass the bi-annual vehicle inspection (all the things I mentioned are required for a motorbike to be road legal, I just seem to have lost them earlier). The tail tidy from R&G Racing looks really nice.
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May 2, 2012 20:33
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Replaced muh ground strap. Poor thing has to take such a scenic route through a congested area with one end nailed to a VibroMatic(TM) engine, it's a wonder it held on for six years. Someone needs to invent a batt compartment where you just slide the thing in, close a latch, and all the contacts line up. I'm sure BMW thought of this back in 1922 or something.  Also ran into this, and dug it much: 
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May 3, 2012 00:37
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Marv Hushman posted:Also ran into this, and dug it much: I love that look. Just the right amount of chrome to be a great accent as opposed to overbearing.
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May 3, 2012 14:26
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Helped the wife out with the VF500C carb rack last night. She got through the three I didn't get through after giving up because I was frustrated with stripped out screws and making trips to the Honda dealer to finish the project that she was neglecting. Carbs came off because they were leaking huge amounts of fuel. Float bowl seal or stuck float valve were likely culprits. Tried tapping the bowls with a screwdriver and riding it good and flat out to try and un-stick a float valve. Neither worked. Both outside carbs seemed to have sort of messed up seals. Inside ones looked ok. Float valves all moved nicely. Jets were nice and clean (it never had trouble running). We're operating on the assumption that the fuel was getting past the messed up float bowl seals. Everything's back together on the bench, we just have to put the rack back on the Magna. God I hope I can find all those stupid little screws and poo poo. The best part of this task was the Harbor Freight dude's look of horror when she asked where they keep their pig's dicks.
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May 3, 2012 21:49
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Plugged it into the trickle charger because I left the heated grips on when I got home last night  This was followed by throwing my helmet in the car and driving to work fully geared. The lady at the ferry terminal kiosk looked at me oddly.
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May 3, 2012 21:58
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Pope Mobile posted:Plugged it into the trickle charger because I left the heated grips on when I got home last night I used to do this far...far too often. Like, carry around the trickle charger with me, too often.
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May 4, 2012 02:46
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Mine turn off with the bike, it's nice for dumbasses like me.
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May 4, 2012 05:55
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