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MutantBlue posted:Before you replace your mouse, have you opened it up and blown out the pet fur and mystery crust? My mouse wheel gets wonky every 3-4 months and it's always because of dreck collected around the axle and sensor.
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Apr 26, 2012 04:58
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A store near me is selling a 9800GT for £30 and a 7800 GTX for £62, both with 512mb RAM. Anyone know why the hell they're charging more for the 7800? Surely a 9800 is the better card?
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Apr 26, 2012 18:49
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Because the GTX cost them more, probably, and there's a chance people could confuse it with the Radeon 7800 series. The 9800 is definitely better. But the flip side is they're both really, really old and pretty much not worth buying right now at all.
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Apr 26, 2012 19:37
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Experto Crede posted:A store near me is selling a 9800GT for £30 and a 7800 GTX for £62, both with 512mb RAM. Anyone know why the hell they're charging more for the 7800? Surely a 9800 is the better card?
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Apr 26, 2012 19:38
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grumperfish posted:Is the 7800 an AGP model?
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Apr 26, 2012 19:40
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:There wasn't a 7800 GTX in AGP. I think there was a 7800 GS or something, and maybe some sort of 7950. No GTX, but I have a 7800 GT AGP, although for some reason it was advertised as a GS, it has a GT core. Who knows why.
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Apr 26, 2012 19:44
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MutantBlue posted:Before you replace your mouse, have you opened it up and blown out the pet fur and mystery crust? My mouse wheel gets wonky every 3-4 months and it's always because of dreck collected around the axle and sensor. People have non-optical mice still?
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Apr 26, 2012 20:49
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Bob Morales posted:People have non-optical mice still? Man, I still can't seem to fix it, and it's falling apart for other reasons too, I might go out and try to find a direct replacement. I didn't realize how much I relied on the scroll wheel until it isn't working right.
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Apr 26, 2012 20:52
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Samurai Sanders posted:It's the scroll wheel, not the optical part. I mean, unless the scroll wheel is optical inside somehow, I have no idea. Mouse wheels are usually optical, but they're optical in the same sense as the optoencoders in old roller mice. There's a slotted wheel and a couple of IR LED/photosensor pairs that shine through it. If the slotted wheel gets dirty, then it can have the problems you're describing. Have you checked into the warranty? People usually don't call it in, but most MS input devices are 3 or 5 years, and they're pretty generous on the terms.
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Apr 26, 2012 21:07
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Space Gopher posted:Mouse wheels are usually optical, but they're optical in the same sense as the optoencoders in old roller mice. There's a slotted wheel and a couple of IR LED/photosensor pairs that shine through it. If the slotted wheel gets dirty, then it can have the problems you're describing. edit: my original question hasn't been answered yet: how universal is the Microsoft wireless keyboard/mouse receiver? Samurai Sanders fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Apr 26, 2012 |
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Apr 26, 2012 21:13
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As far as X-Box 360, is there a major difference in quality between component and HDMI?
Narzack fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Apr 26, 2012 |
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Apr 26, 2012 21:46
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Samurai Sanders posted:Oh yeah, so it does. I definitely don't still have the receipt though, and living in Hawaii getting warranty service would mean a week or two without a mouse and a lot of money for shipping, and that just ain't happening. Not very universal; they've gone through a fair number of incompatible revisions. You might as well try it, but you're probably going to end up using two USB ports. Seriously, though, try the warranty first. It used to be that you could just call them up, read the number and manufacturing date off the bottom of the mouse, and two days later the UPS truck would show up with a new mouse. I think they stopped doing that once people caught on that one mouse could turn into a lifetime supply, but they're still pretty generous. If it's still under warranty, I'd be very surprised if you had to pay for shipping (even to and from Hawaii). Narzack posted:As far as X-Box 360, is there a major difference in quality between compnonent and HDMI? Not really.
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Apr 26, 2012 21:56
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Space Gopher posted:Not really. I would upgrade that to "maybe". Really depends on your TV more than anything.
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Apr 26, 2012 23:32
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I have dual monitors with SLI 560ti 448's and each one is plugged into a GPU. My main display is HDMI GPU1 and my second is DVI GPU2. I noticed that my GPU temps have increased 10 degrees each in idle. GPU1 will go back to idle speeds but GPU2 is maxed out on core, memory, and shader clock speeds when idle with a temp of 50C. Any ideas on what could be causing this? The monitors do not share the same native resolution. But they do share the same refresh rate. Edit: Just plugged both into GPU1 and now GPU1 is maxed out on core, memory, and shader in idle. 58C GPU1. 37C GPU2. Should I try both in GPU2 or maybe switch the HDMI from GPU2 to GPU1. Would the different inputs cause this issue? Should both be either HDMI or DVI? Edit 2. Fixed it with Nvidia Inspector by forcing the GPU to P12. It was was stuck on P0. brewmeister fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Apr 27, 2012 |
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Apr 27, 2012 02:56
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Just half an hour or so ago, my graphics card started artifacting and flickering when I'm in game. Tried multiple games, same general problems. It's an EVGA 460GTX SSC, any idea what's going on? I'm really hoping my card isn't hosed, because I just bought this thing a couple months ago. I have the newest drivers installed. edit: Only when in-game, prerendered video has no problem. no matter the resolution. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Apr 27, 2012 |
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Apr 27, 2012 05:14
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It definitely sounds like instability, which means one of three things: 1) Bad overclock (dial it back to stock and see if the problem continues) 2) Overheating (check the temperatures during play with GPU-Z or HWiNFO64 to confirm, then blow out the heatsink if that's the problem) 3) The card just kicked the bucket
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Apr 27, 2012 05:46
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Checked temps with afterburner, never even hit 45 degrees. It's stock oced, I'll try underclocking it a ways and see if that helps. I really loving hope it didn't bite it, I can't afford a new one.
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Apr 27, 2012 06:28
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45 C is really, really, REALLY low for a GeForce 460. It should be at least 10 C higher at full load, more like 15-25 C. Double check that with another program, even use Furmark (which has its own sensor reader in the stress benchmark).
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Apr 27, 2012 06:34
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Well, I wasn't running a full stress test. It was artifacting as soon as I loaded the game. I guess that makes it more likely to have just suddenly died, huh? In the past, it has shown 60-70 degree temperatures at heavier loads (metro 2033 at full 1600x1200). If so, that's two things in as many weeks that have gone from just fine to hosed up with no warning. Last week my left headphone speaker gave out, and my card started doing this after I left it idling for a couple hours tonight. Just a coincidence, or could there be something else in the computer causing it?
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Apr 27, 2012 07:40
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A headphone speaker and a video card is probably a coincidence. If something else goes, start suspecting your power supply, though.
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Apr 27, 2012 08:00
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What is the name of that company who used to give out free wireless routers in echange for access to your wireless network for it's user base? I wonder what happened to them?
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Apr 27, 2012 14:29
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b0nes posted:What is the name of that company who used to give out free wireless routers in echange for access to your wireless network for it's user base? I wonder what happened to them? Are you thinking of Fon? Still around, but you've gotta buy the router now.
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Apr 27, 2012 14:46
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Welp, after starting up the computer today I tried loading up a game again and it works fine. Is it possible the card just needed some time off?
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Apr 28, 2012 04:19
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So while playing games, where the lighting gets low, the screen will turn to black after a certain threshold, what that is, I'm not sure, but it happens in certain areas in Metro 2033, and in the ingame menu in Serious Sam. I have an EVGA GTX 570 HD, I just updated my driver to version 301.24 to see if the old version (296.10) was the culprit. The problem still persists.
dog nougat fucked around with this message at 09:19 on Apr 28, 2012 |
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Apr 28, 2012 08:51
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dog nougat posted:So while playing games, where the lighting gets low, the screen will turn to black after a certain threshold, what that is, I'm not sure, but it happens in certain areas in Metro 2033, and in the ingame menu in Serious Sam. I have an EVGA GTX 570 HD, I just updated my driver to version 301.24 to see if the old version (296.10) was the culprit. The problem still persists.
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Apr 28, 2012 09:37
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Wow, I'm retarded, thanks.
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Apr 28, 2012 17:10
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My fiance is running a Gateway gt5464, (Link to specs: http://support.gateway.com/s/PC/R/1009562/1009562sp3.shtml) and I'm wanting to upgrade it's video card to a Radeon HD 5450. I'm just not sure if the two are compatible. Would her desktop run the new vid card (assuming I upgraded the stock power supply)?
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Apr 28, 2012 18:14
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Imalloutofideas posted:My fiance is running a Gateway gt5464, (Link to specs: http://support.gateway.com/s/PC/R/1009562/1009562sp3.shtml) and I'm wanting to upgrade it's video card to a Radeon HD 5450. I'm just not sure if the two are compatible. Would her desktop run the new vid card (assuming I upgraded the stock power supply)? You don't need a PSU upgrade for a 5450. It uses only about 20W, about the same power as a pair of hard drives.
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Apr 28, 2012 18:42
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Imalloutofideas posted:My fiance is running a Gateway gt5464, (Link to specs: http://support.gateway.com/s/PC/R/1009562/1009562sp3.shtml) and I'm wanting to upgrade it's video card to a Radeon HD 5450. I'm just not sure if the two are compatible. Would her desktop run the new vid card (assuming I upgraded the stock power supply)? If you wanted an upgrade for gaming the Radeon HD 7750 1GB for $109.99 is a great option due to its extremely low power usage and reasonable performance, though it probably wouldn't be worth it in a system that old due to the limited CPU and system RAM. Alereon fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Apr 28, 2012 |
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Apr 28, 2012 18:43
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Factory Factory posted:You don't need a PSU upgrade for a 5450. It uses only about 20W, about the same power as a pair of hard drives. Alereon posted:New videocards would work in that system since it has a PCI-Express x16 slot, and you don't even need to upgrade the power supply for something that doesn't have an PCI-Express Graphics (PEG) power connector. I would go for something a bit faster than a 5450 if possible, as it doesn't really have the horsepower for a good media playback experience. Check out this Radeon HD 6570 1GB for $62.99-$20 MIR=$42.99. That's not much more expensive than a 5450 and has 5X the stream processors and 1GB of RAM. Thanks guys, you are awesome. The specs said it  required a 400w supply, so I just assumed I'd need to upgrade. In that case, I'll check out some slightly beefier cards. Her only real concern is that she wants to play Amnesia, and her Intel Media Accelerator doesn't run it at all.
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Apr 28, 2012 18:48
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Narzack posted:As far as X-Box 360, is there a major difference in quality between component and HDMI? No, but a lot of TVs do not do 1080p over component even though the TV is 1080p and component is capable of doing 1080p. Don't ask me why that's the case, though. Onto my question: What right now is the best NVidia card for the price/performance? This stuff is so hard to keep up with. I tried searching Slickdeals but nothing seems to be really on sale. I'd like to spent no more than $125-$150. Thanks!
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Apr 30, 2012 14:57
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Hamburglar posted:No, but a lot of TVs do not do 1080p over component even though the TV is 1080p and component is capable of doing 1080p. Don't ask me why that's the case, though. It's because 1080p is just about at the limit of what analog component video can handle. Rather then spend extra money on ensuring the TVs can receive it properly, manufacturers usually only test and support up to 1080i, since after all, there are very few 1080p sets and 1080p-outputting devices that won't also have HDMI on 'em. Similarly, most devices that can output 1080p, and can output over component, will rarely output 1080p over the component link, again because it's close to the limit of what can be handled and the manufacturer can save money by not bothering.
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Apr 30, 2012 16:03
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Hamburglar posted:Onto my question: What right now is the best NVidia card for the price/performance? This stuff is so hard to keep up with. I tried searching Slickdeals but nothing seems to be really on sale. I'd like to spent no more than $125-$150. Thanks! Some dude in the SH/SC thread made this based on some other's dude's original, non-dynamic graph. http://www.craftools.com/gpu/ So what you can see there, which is what has been the case for a while, is that basically there is not an Nvidia card that is too great cheaper than the 560Ti, which is outside your price range.
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Apr 30, 2012 16:08
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When I built my current computer I installed one of those OEM versions of Windows 7, can I use that same product key to activate Windows 7 on my new computer or do I have to buy Windows again?
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Apr 30, 2012 16:09
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Install Gentoo posted:It's because 1080p is just about at the limit of what analog component video can handle. Rather then spend extra money on ensuring the TVs can receive it properly, manufacturers usually only test and support up to 1080i, since after all, there are very few 1080p sets and 1080p-outputting devices that won't also have HDMI on 'em. Similarly, most devices that can output 1080p, and can output over component, will rarely output 1080p over the component link, again because it's close to the limit of what can be handled and the manufacturer can save money by not bothering. Thanks, I am surprised there's any money to be saved since the TV is already 1080p. My TV also only does 768p over VGA, which is also weird because I know VGA can do 1080p just fine. I see what you're saying though; how many people have 1080p devices that don't have HDMI and all, but the XBox 360 has millions of units out there 1080p capable with no HDMI port. Dogen posted:Some dude in the SH/SC thread made this based on some other's dude's original, non-dynamic graph. Thanks for that link. I'll just get the NVidia that's $150 on that chart. Appreciated.
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Apr 30, 2012 16:47
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Hamburglar posted:Thanks, I am surprised there's any money to be saved since the TV is already 1080p. My TV also only does 768p over VGA, which is also weird because I know VGA can do 1080p just fine. I see what you're saying though; how many people have 1080p devices that don't have HDMI and all, but the XBox 360 has millions of units out there 1080p capable with no HDMI port. Funny thing about those 360s. The original models, which lacked HDMI, were the most vulnerable to that red ring of death stuff, and the replacements Microsoft sent back were usually HDMI-equipped models, especially after 2007. The high failure rate means that many or even most of the pre-HDMI Pro and Core models have been replaced with HDMI-capable ones.
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Apr 30, 2012 17:13
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Biggest human being Ever posted:When I built my current computer I installed one of those OEM versions of Windows 7, can I use that same product key to activate Windows 7 on my new computer or do I have to buy Windows again? Windows licensing states that you need to use a new product key if it's a new system. Is this a completely new computer (different motherboard, CPU, GPU, etc), or are you re-using parts from your current/old machine? If you're re-using parts then you could use your old key with the reason being that you're upgrading your system. The way Microsoft's licensing works is that once registered that key is tied to the hardware IDs of your computer components. For example, if you try to use a key that was registered to an AMD system with integrated graphics on a machine with an Intel chip with a dedicated GPU, then it will flag your key as non-genuine. Of course, you could just call Microsoft up when prompted and tell them your old system crashed. Though that's a very grey-area and not guaranteed to work.
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Apr 30, 2012 17:18
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Rukus posted:Windows licensing states that you need to use a new product key if it's a new system. Is this a completely new computer (different motherboard, CPU, GPU, etc), or are you re-using parts from your current/old machine? It is an entirely new computer, I'm going from a Core 2 Duo to an Ivy Bridge and I change everything else while I'm at it. I was kinda thinking that I bought 1 copy of Windows and was allowed to use on 1 computer at a time, even after changing machines, but oh well, guess I'll add a copy of Windows 7 to the shopping list.
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Apr 30, 2012 17:40
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I just use the same key (TechNet I think) every time I reinstall Windows on the "same" machine. Usually, this is after a few years or a big hardware upgrade. If the key complains, I call Microsoft, explain what I'm doing and they've never said no. They just say "you cannot use this key on your old machine/your old install will no longer be valid" and that's fine with me.
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Apr 30, 2012 17:42
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Dogen posted:Some dude in the SH/SC thread made this based on some other's dude's original, non-dynamic graph. Now I wonder where my pair of 4870s would fall on that chart. If the 6850 outperforms them, maybe I should just see about selling 'em for $50 each and throwing down $20 on a new card. Probably still going to be CPU-bottlenecked though.
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Apr 30, 2012 19:19
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