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My mk6 GTI just gave me a tire pressure warning. I checked and rechecked all 4 tires, and they were all ~35 psi. Is it fairly common for these tire sensors to fail or come loose? I had just gotten my car washed too, including an undercarriage rinse, so I wonder if that's related. shyduck fucked around with this message at 19:03 on May 2, 2012 |
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May 2, 2012 18:17
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shyguy posted:My mk6 GTI just gave me a tire pressure warning. I checked and rechecked all 4 tires, and they were all ~35 psi. What year GTI? Metal valve stems or rubber? If they are rubber valve stems they use the wheel speed sensor and don't have actual tpm sensors. Should just be able to reset it with the button in the glove box if so.
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May 2, 2012 21:28
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What should I know about the A3 and its kin (GTI? I really don't know)? I have been shopping for WRX wagons and Mazda3 hatchbacks and hadn't really thought about the VAG because of bad experiences with their cars when I was younger. So are there certain years I should definitely avoid? How long can I really expect these things to last post warranty? What am I looking for in a sub-$16k price range? Are all Audi owners really as douchey as I've read on The VWVortex?
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May 4, 2012 01:51
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I asked in the 2.0 FSI thread: The Mk6 GTI's US manual says you can turn off the "ATA [anti-theft alarm] confirm" horn beep when you lock the doors, from the Convenience submenu in the MFD. But, as the car is, it doesn't show that option in there. Is this one of the cases where the factory has simplified which settings are displayed via a software config? Can the dealer be made to put it back in?
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May 4, 2012 03:08
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Need VAGCOM for it
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May 4, 2012 03:47
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Maybe this is a dumb question, but why would they publish it in the US manual one way and ship the cars another?
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May 4, 2012 03:53
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I think they just publish the same manual for all regions even though the cars are equipped differently. There's a few other things I came across that didn't apply to US GTIs but were still listed in the manual. The Euro cars have a lot of extras we don't get here like the adaptive suspension.
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May 4, 2012 04:35
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How the hell do I burp the cooling system of a 2000 Bug? I've ran it without the cap, massaged hoses, held high rpms, ran the heater, put it on an incline and decline and I've done it all again with the cap on with a touch of driving it hard around corners. I can't get heat out of the heater either, so I know it has plenty of air in it.
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May 4, 2012 21:33
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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Aeka 2.0 posted:How the hell do I burp the cooling system of a 2000 Bug? I've ran it without the cap, massaged hoses, held high rpms, ran the heater, put it on an incline and decline and I've done it all again with the cap on with a touch of driving it hard around corners. I can't get heat out of the heater either, so I know it has plenty of air in it. It should bleed in a few minutes with the cap off at 2000 RPM. If it doesn't, you probably have another problem like a lovely plastic impeller on the waterpump that got damaged or isn't spinning.
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May 4, 2012 22:25
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A while ago I posted about fixing up my exhaust. After a lot of recommendations for overpriced euro douches, I finally found a place to rebuild my exhaust for <$1000. Only problem is, I cannot find the OEM resonator for less than $500 more on top. Anyone know any sources that ship cheaply to/in Canada?
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May 5, 2012 03:00
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Going to this buy you guys before I commit (more so than I already have). 2010 VW GTI 32k miles 6-speed Autobahn Package APR Stage 1 17k Just had the 30k service done and nothing came up, clean Autocheck. Saw the records, oil changed every 5000 miles. One owner, a Pediatrician with 1 kid. I've already bought the ticket to pick it up but I'm not doing anything crazy buying this very mildly modded car right? The price seems pretty solid especially including the autobahn package, and it's just a hair over the edmunds trade-in price. Bumper-bumper warranty's technically good until 36k, but I imagine the powertrain warranty until 60k is void with the ECU.
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May 5, 2012 16:44
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Motronic posted:It should bleed in a few minutes with the cap off at 2000 RPM. If it doesn't, you probably have another problem like a lovely plastic impeller on the waterpump that got damaged or isn't spinning. why is everything on this era of VW made of lovely plastic? Plastic shifter linkage to name one  Do they still use plastic for stupid poo poo?
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May 5, 2012 19:00
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Aeka 2.0 posted:why is everything on this era of VW made of lovely plastic? Plastic shifter linkage to name one Because racecar. Or in this case....because cheap.
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May 5, 2012 19:48
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veedubfreak posted:What year GTI? Metal valve stems or rubber? If they are rubber valve stems they use the wheel speed sensor and don't have actual tpm sensors. Should just be able to reset it with the button in the glove box if so. So far no issues after about an hour of drive time. Thanks!
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May 5, 2012 20:32
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Residency Evil posted:Going to this buy you guys before I commit (more so than I already have). This seems like a really good deal to me. I paid a good bit more than that for my 2010 DSG w/Sunroof & Convenience and 36k miles. Can't speak to powertrain warranty void w/Stage 1, I looked and couldn't find anything conclusive. I love the car. I'm jealous of your Autobahn package. I know the prevailing wisdom is only buy stock cars, but is a simple ECU tune enough to put you off? I'd buy it, I think.
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May 6, 2012 23:40
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Aeka 2.0 posted:why is everything on this era of VW made of lovely plastic? Plastic shifter linkage to name one Only the new Jetta and Passat switched to the lovely plastic bullshit. It's because every other company is bringing their prices down, so VW has to compete. The Golf/GTI still has all the nice soft-touch interior. Same with the Jetta Sportwagon.
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May 7, 2012 14:28
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yasher posted:This seems like a really good deal to me. I paid a good bit more than that for my 2010 DSG w/Sunroof & Convenience and 36k miles. Yeah, I'm pretty set on buying too and have a ticket to go pick it up. I looked through the guy's post history and he just seems like a responsible guy with a kid. I'm not completely sure about the powertrain warranty either. It looks like VW dealers definitely flag cars which are tuned, but I haven't found too many cases of owners being denied even powertrain-related warranty service. Either way I think the price differential (call it 2-3k?) is worth it. Prevailing wisdom is still not to buy an extended warranty, right?
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May 7, 2012 15:11
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Residency Evil posted:Yeah, I'm pretty set on buying too and have a ticket to go pick it up. I looked through the guy's post history and he just seems like a responsible guy with a kid. I'm not completely sure about the powertrain warranty either. It looks like VW dealers definitely flag cars which are tuned, but I haven't found too many cases of owners being denied even powertrain-related warranty service. Either way I think the price differential (call it 2-3k?) is worth it. Prevailing wisdom is still not to buy an extended warranty, right? Pretty sure the warranty is going to be in the hands of your local dealer. You could try talking to the local APR dealer, see if they know how mod friendly the dealers are in your area. In the end, it may not matter, if you never need to bring it in for powertrain issues.
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May 7, 2012 17:42
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Residency Evil posted:Prevailing wisdom is still not to buy an extended warranty, right? I might have bought an extended warranty if I could have found a company that I was confident in, but I was unable to find one that made me want to give them a couple thousand dollars and hope they pay for something when I need them to.
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May 7, 2012 17:55
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Which of these 17" wheels do you guys think would look better on a 2010 GTI? These are wrapped in 225/45/17 Conti ProSport Contacts, and I can get them for $900 shipped. I'm going to need new rubber by the end of the summer so I figured I might as well upgrade the wheels as well (currently on 17" stock Denvers): Karthoum  Vision 
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May 7, 2012 23:18
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Residency Evil posted:. Either way I think the price differential (call it 2-3k?) is worth it. Prevailing wisdom is still not to buy an extended warranty, right? Judging from GTI prices in my area, the price differential is most like 5-6k. That kind of money will get you a 2008 with 100k miles where I live. I think you're getting a good deal, and I wouldn't worry too much about the power train warranty. If something like your radio goes out, VW will still cover it under warranty; they might hassle you a bit more than normal, but they will still cover it.
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May 7, 2012 23:44
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Motronic posted:It should bleed in a few minutes with the cap off at 2000 RPM. If it doesn't, you probably have another problem like a lovely plastic impeller on the waterpump that got damaged or isn't spinning. I'm about to push this car off a cliff. I replaced the thermostat, and the water pump was replaced 4 years ago. Basically the thing pissed out the coolant because an o-ring decided to fall apart on the sensor that plugs into the coolant flange. I suspect that it fell apart because the coolant was mixed, but the coolant doesn't look bad itself. I put in a new coolant flange in it because I thought it cracked, when it was really just the o-ring. Since then, I can't get it to burp. I've burped 200+ systems and never had one kick my rear end like this. It would really suck to find out the pump decided to let go so soon.
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May 8, 2012 01:34
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Aeka 2.0 posted:I've burped 200+ systems and never had one kick my rear end like this. It would really suck to find out the pump decided to let go so soon. That's kinda my point. You obviously know what you are doing. You already know something else is wrong and are grasping at your last hope that you missed something. You didn't. There is no special knowledge you need to make this cooling system burp. Sorry, but the gut feeling you undoubtedly had before you posted any of this is right. You do need to push it off a cliff. Or test for water flow. I vote cliff.
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May 8, 2012 02:27
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Aeka 2.0 posted:I'm about to push this car off a cliff. I replaced the thermostat, and the water pump was replaced 4 years ago. If it was replaced with a pump with a plastic impeller, it's not completely out of the question that it's busted again.
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May 8, 2012 03:25
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Aeka 2.0 posted:I'm about to push this car off a cliff. I replaced the thermostat, and the water pump was replaced 4 years ago. To be fair, my 1.8t poo poo out its first water pump at only 38k miles.
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May 8, 2012 22:51
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yasher posted:
gently caress how does this nonsense keep existing? Your dealer cannot "void" any warranty. The worst they can do is deny service. Then you just go to another dealer. VW itself would have to void your warranty, which would be only for specific situations and not for your entire powertrain warranty.
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May 9, 2012 00:41
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Bovril Delight posted:gently caress how does this nonsense keep existing? Your dealer cannot "void" any warranty. The worst they can do is deny service. Then you just go to another dealer. VW itself would have to void your warranty, which would be only for specific situations and not for your entire powertrain warranty. Easy champ. All we're saying is that if you modify a part of your car's powertrain and then a part of it fails, it's going to be a lot easier for them to deny that claim, and they'd be justified in doing so.
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May 9, 2012 00:55
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kimbo305 posted:I asked in the 2.0 FSI thread: If it doesn't show the option in the MFD then you can't change it. Some model/options allow it, some don't. Even VAG-COM may not be able to change the setting.
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May 10, 2012 00:36
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For those of you with VAG-COM, is it worth paying $250 and picking it up, or is it something you use once and then never really use again?
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May 10, 2012 00:50
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Bovril Delight posted:gently caress how does this nonsense keep existing? Your dealer cannot "void" any warranty. The worst they can do is deny service. Then you just go to another dealer. VW itself would have to void your warranty, which would be only for specific situations and not for your entire powertrain warranty. Audi's been voiding powertrain warranties lately by requiring an ECU scan for all dealer services. The scan reports directly back to Audi and if your ECU is modified you get a TD1 flag permanently on your car which shows up at all dealers. The latest word going around is also them checking the ECU's history for engine parameters (boost, air/fuel ratio, etc) out of the normal range and flagging cars with that. The result so far has been voided powertrain warranties for quite a few people and the dealers have nothing to do with it. I would be very surprised if VW isn't doing the exact same thing so an ECU tune is a big risk for losing your powertrain warranty.
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May 10, 2012 01:55
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Residency Evil posted:For those of you with VAG-COM, is it worth paying $250 and picking it up, or is it something you use once and then never really use again? 1) How long do you plan on having the car? 2) Do you plan on replacing/retrofitting components that will require coding after install? 3) Are you out of warranty, a tinkerer, or is being able to self diagnose issues of any value to you? 4) What are the chances the next vehicle you get will be a VW/Audi with the same interface as the one you have now? I'm on my second Micro-CAN compatible car, I've been able to code for and reset faults caused by retrofit installs myself, customized a few minor settings (DRLs, enabled some MFI options, comfort window operation from keyfob), and have helped friends diagnose check engine lights when they were out of warranty. Once I'm out of warranty myself I think it would save me a great deal of time, but its already been worth it for me.
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May 10, 2012 02:07
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siliciferous posted:1) How long do you plan on having the car? The car's a 2010 and I'm planning on keeping it at least until 2017. The biggest issue is that although I'm a tinkerer, I live in an apartment so bigger repairs are out of the question, and I'm not sure how valuable it'll be if I have to take it to a shop to fix anyways. Do you get much useful information beyond the OBD codes? Worst comes to worst I can always hold off until I get a CEL.
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May 10, 2012 03:15
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I've got a 2008 2.0T A4, and I'm having this weird issue where the dashboard tells me my center brake light is out, but when I go to check it I don't see that. And by the time I get back to my mechanic's place, the warning is off of the dash. Any idea on what the hell could be causing this before I go by the dealer? Issue with a fuse or something?
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May 10, 2012 16:35
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After saying I'd never buy a newer VW again after the terribleness of my mkIV GTI, I'm leaning heavily towards a Golf TDI after test driving one yesterday. I'm looking for a good DD before I buy a fun car a couple years down the road and test drove a prius and a sonic 1.4t as well. The prius was just weird to drive, but the people I know that have them love them. No manual is a pretty big knock against it for me, but they're offering 0% financing through the end of the month and the prius C is quite a bit cheaper. The sonic was OK. Peppy and didn't feel terrible to drive and I liked it better than the prius but it wasn't as good as some of the reviews I've read. The TDI felt pretty great to drive. Pulled really well and felt tighter than the other two. I've seen issues with the HPFP and intercooler icing, is there anything else that's an issue? How are the mk6's holding up so far? It'll be a few months before I'm actually looking to buy provided my car holds up until then, so I've got plenty of time to make a decision. I know the mk7 is slated to come out in the not too distant future, but unless it's worlds better that's not a big issue for me. I'm hoping the Cruze diesel is hitting dealers by the time I'm looking, but I definitely like the VW a lot.
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May 10, 2012 17:10
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I owned a 2011 TDI for a year and a half and I loved the hell out of that car. The only reason I dropped it for an R is because I started to crave something with more power, all-wheel-drive, and in the exact same package - its handling characteristics and low end power showed me how much fun it can be to drive. The manual transmission on the TDI has a good feel, but it could be tightened up a bit. There is a ton of torque practically at idle but power does kind of die when you get up in the revs. I spent half of a summer day driving the thing hard and could not get my fuel economy below 40mpg, once it is broken in you'll be able to manage 50mpg with very little effort. I think that the Mk6 Golf is such a great platform for VW that I'm going to be watching closely to see if the Mk7 ends up being able to match it. I came from a Mk4 Jetta Wolfsburg and was extremely impressed with the interior quality of the Golf. I don't know very much about the intercooler icing problem, can anyone else fill us in? The HPFP has been a hot issue, but I don't think anyone has been able to get actual failure numbers yet. There has been at least one recall (see http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls/results.cfm?rcl_id=11V490000&searchtype=quicksearch&summary=true&refurl=rss) related to the HPFP, and my TDI was affected by it - apparently some microscopic manufacturing defects changed the resonant frequency of some HPFPs to a frequency they saw often enough during normal use to significantly reduce their useful lifetimes. [Edit: I'm glad I'm not an engineer that had to try to figure that one out...] Regardless of the make of car you buy if you get a diesel always keep your most recent receipt around, and if you do encounter a fuel pump failure that anyone claims could have been caused by misfueling, demand to see fuel sample test results. siliciferous fucked around with this message at 21:52 on May 10, 2012 |
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May 10, 2012 21:50
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THE MACHO MAN posted:I've got a 2008 2.0T A4, and I'm having this weird issue where the dashboard tells me my center brake light is out, but when I go to check it I don't see that. And by the time I get back to my mechanic's place, the warning is off of the dash. It's probably just a faulty sensor.
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May 11, 2012 00:14
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siliciferous posted:I owned a 2011 TDI for a year and a half and I loved the hell out of that car. The only reason I dropped it for an R is because I started to crave something with more power, all-wheel-drive, and in the exact same package - its handling characteristics and low end power showed me how much fun it can be to drive. The manual transmission on the TDI has a good feel, but it could be tightened up a bit. There is a ton of torque practically at idle but power does kind of die when you get up in the revs. I spent half of a summer day driving the thing hard and could not get my fuel economy below 40mpg, once it is broken in you'll be able to manage 50mpg with very little effort. I'm taking mine in for the 10k service in 2 weeks and so far the car has been flawless. I also came from an MK4 GLI with the Recarro interior and the Golf interior is just as nice. I wanted something new, and if I was going to buy something I wanted better mileage. I wouldn't be caught dead driving a Prius. I regularly get 41mpg tank average with a 20 mile commute that is about half stop and go traffic. The recall was actually for the fuel lines not the hpfp. The fuel pump numbers are less than 1% failure and at least half of those have been attributed to dipshits filling up with gas. The reason everyone is making such a big deal about it is that -if- it goes, you have to replace everything in the fuel system. It's less a matter of the fuel pump dying and more an issue of it destroying the entire system when it goes.
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May 11, 2012 15:13
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veedubfreak posted:I wouldn't be caught dead driving a Prius. This doesn't bother me that much since this car is going to be my dedicated DD with something fun a couple years down the line once I'm fully certified at my job and making good money. I'm sure you get used to it, but I just didn't like how the prius felt. I wasn't a fan of giving it gas and having it slowly creep out into the intersection before the gas engine kicked in. I kind of expected a decent amount of pickup off the line with the electric motor but didn't get that at all. The TDI is definitely at the top of my list and I want to get one now but need to hold off a few months if possible. My focus might vibrate/shake itself apart at any time, or the clutch might poo poo itself but at least I know what I want now. edit: How the hell are 2 year old Jetta TDI's listing for more/the same as new ones? 
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May 11, 2012 16:47
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fknlo posted:edit: How the hell are 2 year old Jetta TDI's listing for more/the same as new ones? Ha! Are you comparing the 2010 to the 2012? Remember there was a pretty major redesign for the 2011 model and not everyone is a big fan of it so that pushes up the 2010 prices. Even so, it is pretty astonishing isn't it? As best I can tell in two years my 2010 TDI has only lost $2-3k from what I drove it off the lot for. That's just crazy.
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May 11, 2012 17:45
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Shifty Pony posted:Ha! Are you comparing the 2010 to the 2012? Remember there was a pretty major redesign for the 2011 model and not everyone is a big fan of it so that pushes up the 2010 prices. Even so, it is pretty astonishing isn't it? As best I can tell in two years my 2010 TDI has only lost $2-3k from what I drove it off the lot for. That's just crazy. TDIs in general apparently have a slower depreciation. That being said the new Jettas are watered down junk compared to the old ones. They were designed to be cheap for North American price conscious mass market appeal. The strategy worked which just goes to show we can never have nice things. The 2010 Jetta might as well be the real Jetta while the 2012 is more like a base model Corolla with a VW badge.
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May 11, 2012 18:37
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