|
I'm gonna epoxy some cardboard together and strap it to the seat to see if I like the ride position. Just ordered a complete wiring harness for my bike to replace the one the previous owner completely hosed up. Gonna be a fun summer! 
|
#
?
May 3, 2012 07:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 05:45 |
|
|
Tonight, Zool helped me put on the GSXR front end. The Scotts steering dampener had to come off, sadly. Need a different adapter for the GSXR triple. $120 of course. Also didn't order enough caliper bolts, so hopefully I can find those at a moto store tomorrow, as tomorrow night it's off to the racetrack. R6 calipers, 320mm disks, steel lines, Brembo MC and forks worked by the local suspension guru with all new internals and setup for my weight and riding style. So very excited. Need: - To figure out what to do with the stock SV speed sensor. --- How to get the speedo working on the GSXR wheel - Mount the scotts again
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2012 09:01
|
|
|
Most people I've seen on forums install a hall sensor / pulse sensor in the front wheel and run it to an aftermarket gauge and then just get rid of the old sv speed sensor. But that's just my (un)educated guess. edit:  Installed but it started raining so I can't really test it like I want to. 
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2012 09:37
|
|
|
The rattling/ticking in the case is the cam chain tensioner, right? Because that's what I told my friend.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2012 18:29
|
|
|
Yeah, it's completely normal. You'd notice if it were going out. Some ticking is fine as long as it's consistent with the RPM's and whatnot. Also I just removed the silencer from my Yoshi pipe: http://youtu.be/FhqvCkPzkfE Video sucks but it sounds so good now. I'm so happy!  Also, my wiring harness and accessories came in! Time to rebuild an entire wiring harness from scratch? I think it is.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2012 22:18
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:Also, my wiring harness and accessories came in! Time to rebuild an entire wiring harness from scratch? I think it is. This actually isn't too hard and I enjoyed the hell out of it. Mine was a very very simplified racing harness though. The harness I build for the last track car...that was a bit more work.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2012 13:45
|
|
|
NitroSpazzz posted:This actually isn't too hard and I enjoyed the hell out of it. Mine was a very very simplified racing harness though. The harness I build for the last track car...that was a bit more work. I've done it a few times with cars. Between swearing and mental breakdowns, it's actually my happy place and it's guaranteeing that this will be a helluva summer.  I'm actually gonna take apart my entire bike and put it back together from the ground-up. Gonna clean it all up nicely and fix the awful wiring the previous owner hosed up and make it look cherry. I've been wanting to do it for a while, but it's my daily driver so I can't until after this quarter.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2012 20:27
|
|
|
I wish I could hire you to do the same for my SV's. Presuming that you'd do a good job at it, ofc 
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2012 20:38
|
|
|
Naturally! I'm a huge sperg in every part of my life, including wiring. I just got a bunch of high temp abrasion-resistant nylon weave and shrink tubing and am gonna be completely testing and reorganizing my bike's harness from scratch, as well as integrating a lot of my farkles into the wiring harness (my Trail Tech gauge, HID relay, etc). Restoring wiring isn't difficult-- it's diagnosing that takes the bulk of the time. But every problem I've had has been from somebody neglecting to do things the right way. By taking the time necessary to ensure their craftmanship is quality (not to mention OEM), wiring jobs are easy. At least Suzuki's wiring diagrams are mostly in color and don't have four different books (Chilton, Haynes, Bentley, Greenbooks) with four different diagrams like Volvos do.  When my terminal extractor tool comes in, this project is on its way!
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2012 21:07
|
|
|
How's the R6 tube treating ya?
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 02:17
|
|
|
Funny you ask! It actually saved my life the other day on the freeway.  This guy cuts through three lanes of traffic at a 45* angle over a white divider and came about a foot from clipping me. If I hadn't noticed and went into warp speed, I'd have been smacked from his car's force heading toward me at pretty ridiculous speed (not including the 60mph we were going forward). I'm pretty light on the throttle usually but it is so easy to hit WOT and get out of bad situations now that I'm sure it had a positive and tangible effect on my overall riding-- if not immediately installation then definitely proven by that situation. I'm actually working on the wiring harness right now and plan on swapping it over this summer. The terminal extractor tool I linked works absolutely amazingly well on every plug on the harness.  Basically I'm doing this because I like the aesthetic and visual tracing/diagnostic values of weave and the wires will outlast the life of the bike before they're corroded by elements now exposed with removal of the electrical tape. The plus side is that it's nearly abrasion proof and good for temperatures upwards of 300 degrees, which is where electrical tape starts failing anyway, so it depends on your perspective. Considering it's like $0.20/foot for the weave it's a pretty good investment if you're as bored and easily entertained by spectrum-level hobbies as I am.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 03:16
|
|
|
Your next upgrade should be a sprocket swap-out if you're seeking for even more snappier response. Over the past 1.5 weeks, I got accustomed to my new SV's 15/45 sprocket sizes (stock N config), and the upgraded jetting/intake/exhaust injectIng extra power while taking off upwards beyond 5-6k rpm. Then my GF came to Buffalo to visit me, with her SV. It has a 14/47 sprocket config, and despite only a desnorkeling mod to the intake, it takes off furiously from 3k upwards and accelerates faster than my SV. I rode it again this weekend and I definitely, and sadly, prefer riding her SV compared to mine for that reason alone. It makes riding a fuckton more fun.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 03:27
|
|
|
Sitting next to me is a 15/47 set and a 520 x-ring chain actually. It's going on tomorrow morning.  (went with the 15 instead of the 14 because of the rumors of chain wear. Sprockets are so cheap I can always go to a 48 tooth and a 14 front if it proves too anemic)
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 03:33
|
|
|
Awesome. Prepare for  results!
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 03:36
|
|
|
Are there LED blinkers integrated in the taillight on '07s? There seems to be one column of red LEDs and another column that never lights up. There are 2 wires coming out that aren't hooked to anything because the blinkers currently are on the fender/license plate mount. I'll take pictures if it helps because I suck at explaining things. Anyway, I ask because I'm currently looking to buy a fender eliminator and some come with blinkers and others don't. Speaking of which, have you guys ever bought one? Any recommendations? Since I'm tearing the bike apart already, I might as well go for broke. Any recommendations for grips and bar end mirrors? Or any other cool stuff that a mechanical newbie might be able to install, like, say, a R6 throttle tube?
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 20:04
|
|
|
While I can't comment on the '07's and fender eliminator kits (I made mine from scratch with scrap aluminum from an old Boardwalk ride), I can give some suggestions for stuff to do as a newbie: r6 throttle tube: Probably the easiest mod I've done so far. Basically, you 1. take a screwdriver and remove the instrument cluster on the handlebar to expose the throttle tube and cables 2. lift the tank (prop with some wood or something) by removing the seat and the two bolts at the handlebars holding the tank down 3. loosen the clamps on the air box, remove air box or put it aside while attached to the crank case ventilation tubing so you can access the end of the throttle cables. You might need to remove your fairing to remove these clamps 4. take, I believe, a 10mm and 12mm wrench and loosen the throttle cable connectors at the base of the throttle bodies so you get enough slack to get the cables out of the throttle tube on the handlebar 5. remove the cable connector ends off the tube and slide the tube off the handlebar 6. Installation is opposite of removal The biggest thing here is figuring out what throttle cable slack is right for you. If you liked the stock slack, take a sharpie and mark on the thread of the bolts at the end of the cable (the ones the cable slides through) so you can adjust it back to stock, but it's pretty straight forward. It took me about 30 minutes but only because I didn't have a stubby phillips screwdriver to remove the instrument cluster  otherwise it's a 10 minute job. (or 30 if you're new )Next, I'd say, is probably getting silicon dilectric grease / gel and spreading it around the top of your front cylinder's spark plugs so water doesn't seep between the rubber boot and the engine spark plug hole and potentially foul your plugs / cause lugging After that, sprockets are pretty rad. Most people recommend either removing a tooth on the front sprocket or adding a few teeth on the back sprocket. For street, I'd say going up two or three on the back is a good start. This makes your bike have a lot more low end grunt and really takes off, but you'll be sacrificing a few mpg because your bike will have higher RPM's for the same speeds you were going before. There are plenty of documentations online for this swap and SV Racing has a 520 chain conversion kit with both sprockets and an x-ring chain for around $140, I believe, which is a pretty good deal. You'll need a chain rivet tool and some oddball sockets to do this but if you ask on a local rider forum there will definitely be somebody willing to help you out for this. Oh yeah, walkin dude, I actually have a 520 chain set and 48 back sprocket right now (haven't installed the new one yet, still kind of sick) and it takes off like a rocket already. Totally forgot. Hahaha. But it's a Vortex sprocket so it's swiss cheese and I already notice wear on it after only a few thousand miles. Gonna be putting on a Pitbull sprocket set and will report the results!
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 21:06
|
|
|
^^^^ Thanks for the info. http://www.ebay.com/itm/THROTTLE-SL...edbbdcc&vxp=mtr For an 07. Thats what you're talking about right? Im 2500 miles from my bike right now so I would like to have it ready to install when I get back home.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 21:46
|
|
|
Nice on the 48T rear sprocket. I was reading around yesterday on sprocket upgrades, and learned that one tooth down in front is equivalent to 2-3 tooth more in rear. So you can imagine how 14/47 feels like.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 21:51
|
|
|
You can do the throttle tube without removing the tank. Just pull the control pod off, adjust the cables for maximum slack, and you'll have enough room to install the new one.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 23:10
|
|
|
-1+2 is the best thing I've ever done for my SV. Also ASV levers.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 23:20
|
|
|
Awesome, just ordered a R6 Throttle tube (Grip Assembly?) from ron ayers, hopefully it gets here by the time I get back.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 00:00
|
|
|
invision posted:-1+2 is the best thing I've ever done for my SV. Also ASV levers. Are aftermarket levers really that much better? I am tempted to get a short lever for the brake but I dont know whether its worth the money or not...
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 01:14
|
|
|
ASV's and the like feel way better than stock imo. They're much thicker height-wise than stock and adjustable forwards and back so you can tailor them to your hand size. I don't think actual ASV's or CRG's are worthwhile unless you have a bunch of money to blow on levers but knockoffs are nice for the price usually. Even my ebay knockoffs are pretty good. The problem you'll run into is that they aren't totally matched to the mount so you'll inevitably get some kind of play in the lever either in/out or up and down a bit. Mine have a tad bit of play in them in/out but it's able to be worked around. The brake lever is spot on though.
|
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 01:20
|
|
|
How about the clutch lever? Which brings the most benefit: combo, or one-sided for which? Curious too...
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 01:20
|
|
|
You mean short vs regular? I think shorty is fine for either really. I don't think you need to use more than 2-3 fingers for braking on a modern supersport - at least I don't run into that need. Clutch could go either way. I had shorties on my DRZ so I got used to rearranging my fingers if need be but it's not so bad either way. If I had to pick I'd say shorty brake and regular clutch. The shorty gets a little painful at long lights if you happen to not wanna put it in neutral.
|
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 01:24
|
|
|
I use my ring and pinky fingers to brake so shorty levers always seemed weird to me. Am I doing it wrong? 
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 01:32
|
|
|
My new SV's tail is pushed higher than the GF's SV. It has a 636 shock with stock SV spring, while the GF's SV has a zx-10R shock. Is there a way to make my SV's tail lower by adjusting something or is that just the length of the shocks themselves?
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 02:56
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:While I can't comment on the '07's and fender eliminator kits (I made mine from scratch with scrap aluminum from an old Boardwalk ride)... Where are your turn signals? If they're in the stock tail lights like I think, I might just fabricate one also! Thanks for the throttle tube info, I think I maybe be doing some online shopping for that a sprocket kit.  And a short brake lever. Grips. Mirrors.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 04:48
|
|
|
The turn signals I use are the stock ones they carry at Cycle Gear. Mine is super ghetto, though-- I'd recommend getting one for your bike if you can find one. I mainly did mine to correct the awful hack job of a fender eliminator the PO did. Basically my bike is living proof that people who listen to Korn and ICP should never own bikes ever. It's come a long way since the failed abortion of a previous owner tried to create it in his image @walkin dude: You can get adjustable wishbones for the shock, but I'd recommend sourcing a stock 636 spring because it theoretically puts it at stock height, according to SVforums.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 05:23
|
|
|
SVs tend to handle better with a longer shock. Also if one of those SVs is an 03, those have a taller subframe.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 05:34
|
|
|
GanjamonII posted:Are aftermarket levers really that much better? I am tempted to get a short lever for the brake but I dont know whether its worth the money or not... I picked mine up from a junkyard for like 40 bucks for the pair. If I had a choice, I'd go short brake long clutch. I use my middle finger for braking, so shorty is totally fine, and honestly the shorty clutch isn't that bad, but it does get a little annoying sitting at a really long light. I wish I could tell you about the cheap chinese ones, but I've never used them.. I think Armando has a set of them on his racebike though. I would've never upgraded levers if I didn't find them in the junkyard while I was looking for new (stock) levers. They're worth it enough that I can honestly say I'll never have another bike without aftermarket levers.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 08:08
|
|
|
Both are 1st gen's. Last night after asking my question, I was going through the pictures I took of the parts that came with my new SV, and there was a pair of wishbones/linkages included. So I'll have to compare both SV's wishbones that are already installed. I like the height, but it doesn't make the bike aesthetically appealing. If it was a pointy SV I'd be all over it, but the curvy SV tail looks better when it's lower.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 14:46
|
|
|
I have shorties on both, and like it just fine. I'm mainly concerned with putting stuff on the bike that won't get hosed up I went with these cheapie Chinese Pazzo knockoffs and they're GREAT.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 17:48
|
|
|
I hate you. *buys* What's the difference between those and the real things?
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 18:16
|
|
|
The anodizing might not be as good, but my black ones still look perfectly black about six months later. I've seen pictures comparing them to the Pazzo's and they're identical. edit: pazzo on pike, the2wheels in hand 
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 19:31
|
|
|
I had pazzo's on my bike and then swapped them for the chinese levers. Both of them had wiggle honestly but the price is hard to argue with. EDIT - I should say the copy is really good - the levers really are about as identical as a picture would show.
|
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 19:35
|
|
|
Today I had a little discussion with my gf and we both decided to exchange bikes. The new SV I had bought for myself is now hers. That new SV has fork springs and a shock that are more appropriate for her weight (.80 springs, 636 shock). The other SV, which I had bought for her, is more appropriate for me (.95 springs, zx10r shock). She loves the Coerce hyperbar handlebar on it, preferring it to the higher Daytona. The new bike's tail is higher, which she prefers (more a sportbike stance), while the other's tail is lower, which I prefer. So we were like hm.. why mod and swap around handlebars and adjust poo poo when we can just switch bikes? Looks like I'm not installing a new Daytona handlebar on that SV. Probably gonna just post it up for sale on here or something. But the sheer notion of having 2 distinctly different bikes to easily swap parts between, is awesome. 
the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 03:59 on May 15, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 03:54
|
|
|
A pair of brand-new of Tuono mirrors incoming in the mail, for the total price of $41. Hells yeah.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 23:07
|
|
|
It's the way to roll! That Daytona handlebar looks pretty nice, too. How much more upright do you sit with it?
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2012 20:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 05:45 |
|
|
With the Daytona, Bikemaster Daytona 29.2'' width 5.36'' rise 3'' pullback Stock N bar 26'' width 2'' rise 4.5'' pullback the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 05:18 on May 18, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 18, 2012 00:58
|
|