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Tenchrono
Jun 2, 2011


Thanks for the tips!


I also see what you are talking about keeping it in gear and ready at a stoplight.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qz7vuUx3mzo&feature=youtu.be

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Ziploc
Sep 19, 2006
MX-5
I've also adopted the act of staying in gear and being ready to move until the person behind me is stationary.

PeaceFrog
Jul 27, 2004
you'll shoot your eye out.
I think if I had a camera I would do a lot of analysis. Looking for things I missed, you know those times that you have to do a little maneuver or a harder than wanted brake. Do you guys do that?

A few pages back there was discussion on group rides, I am a novice rider, but I am uncomfortable riding with people I couldn't be spades partners with. They do unexpected things.

snail
Sep 25, 2008

CHEESE!

Ziploc posted:

I've also adopted the act of staying in gear and being ready to move until the person behind me is stationary.

One last thing, I leave more than a car length between me and the car in front while waiting. When the car behind me is almost about to stop, I'll edge forward.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


And another simple thing, don't sit at a light in the middle of the lane. Sit off to the side if possible. Most of the time a car will favor one side of their lane giving you a straight shot if you need to move.

This little thing resulted in a minivan getting rear ended instead of me.

Pinny
Sep 8, 2006
Got my practical test in an hour, and nerves have set in :(

I know I should be fine, but I keep dwelling on the U-turn. They're still done 'on the road' in the Isle of Man, not in an off-road skills portion (Mod1 in the UK). From what I've heard and seen when practicing the roads they pick are hilariously narrow. I should be fine if the examiner picks a decent road for me to do it on though! fingers crossed!

Leaving work in 30mins to have a little pre-test 'calm down' ride and practice, hopefully that will settle my nerves a little!

Shimrod
Apr 15, 2007

race tires on road are a great idea, ask me!

Good luck! Just relax and ride and you'll be fine.

nsaP
May 4, 2004

alright?
Steady throttle, slip the clutch, a bit of rear brake, sit on the outside of the bike, and most importantly look where you want to go. All of the other stuff is no big deal if you remember to look where you want to go, and exaggerate it for low speeds.

Whoops it's been a few hours looking at the time stamps.

A post test "I hope you did well" then lol...

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

nsaP posted:

sit on the outside of the bike

What?

GnarlyCharlie4u
Sep 23, 2007

I have an unhealthy obsession with motorcycles.

Proof

epswing posted:

What?

Side saddle?



Why the gently caress does it stop raining AS SOON as I get the bike out of the rain into a nice dry spot?

Pinny
Sep 8, 2006
Failed for rolling through stop signs instead of coming to a complete foot-down stop. Hadn't even realised I'd done it until the examiner told me at the end so completely my fault so completely missing the signs. They we're all pretty early in the test so I'm chalking it up to nerves, and my head going "do this, do that, remember do this or you'll fail!!!" and not paying attention to everything around me.

Other than that everything else was fine. I picked up 1 minor fault for the not stopping quite quick enough during emergency stop exercise. I had to do one for real a little while after he'd marked down the fault. He mentioned it at the end and said "Why didn't you stop that quick during the exercise!". Also picked up 2 minor faults for slightly late signals when changing lanes.

nsaP posted:

Steady throttle, slip the clutch, a bit of rear brake, sit on the outside of the bike, and most importantly look where you want to go. All of the other stuff is no big deal if you remember to look where you want to go, and exaggerate it for low speeds.

Whoops it's been a few hours looking at the time stamps.

A post test "I hope you did well" then lol...

Yea, I nailed the U-turn with about 3-4ft too spare. I've been practicing them for the past 2 weeks or so, so I'm pretty comfortable with actually doing them. I was more nervous about the examiner choosing a stupidly tight road for it.

Oh well, I have to wait a month before I'll get another test date, so better luck next time I suppose :(

GnarlyCharlie4u
Sep 23, 2007

I have an unhealthy obsession with motorcycles.

Proof
http://blog.motorcycle.com/2012/05/04/videos/triumph-street-triple-used-to-test-rocket-components-video/

Apparently Triumphs are more closely related to spaceships than we thought.
"Triumph Street Triple Used to Test Rocket Components"

nsaP
May 4, 2004

alright?

epswing posted:

What?

As opposed to the inside? Put your weight to the opposite direction that you're turning is what I mean, instead of leaning into the turn. It lets you get the bike leaned over farther for tighter turning, while keeping your weight fairly centered which helps stability (for me at least) at slow speeds.

Ola
Jul 19, 2004

Pinny, I failed my first as well. You'll nail it next time!

Pinny
Sep 8, 2006
Indeed, shopping for a DRZ will have to wait! :D

Baller Witness Bro
Nov 16, 2006

Hey FedEx, how dare you deliver something before your "delivered by" time.

Pinny posted:

Indeed, shopping for a DRZ will have to wait! :D

Don't wait, you'll pass eventually. Might as well get one before summer really hits and you get nailed on price.

Pinny
Sep 8, 2006
I'll get nailed on price no matter what, they rarely come up for sale on the island. The last decent SM I saw was £3k, the rest are all E's so extra cost converting.

It's looking more and more like I'll have to buy from the UK and bring it over on the ferry and register it here. Or just say gently caress it and get a new 690.

Zool
Mar 21, 2005

The motard rap
for all my riders
at the track
Dirt hardpacked
corner workers better
step back

Pinny posted:

Or just say gently caress it and get a new 690.
Probably the worst starter bike under 1098cc.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Pinny posted:

I'll get nailed on price no matter what, they rarely come up for sale on the island. The last decent SM I saw was £3k, the rest are all E's so extra cost converting.

It's looking more and more like I'll have to buy from the UK and bring it over on the ferry and register it here. Or just say gently caress it and get a new 690.

I wouldn't really recommend a 690 as a first bike.
Is it more hassle to import from ireland than uk mainland? there are a few for sale here and up north aswell
Don't forget about CCMs they're basically DRZ400s or DR650s with better suspension and a bit of engine tuning
http://www.donedeal.ie/find/motorbikes/for-sale/Leinster/supermoto
http://www.donedeal.ie/find/motorbikes/for-sale/Ulster/supermoto

echomadman fucked around with this message at 21:30 on May 4, 2012

Pinny
Sep 8, 2006

echomadman posted:

I wouldn't really recommend a 690 as a first bike.
Is it more hassle to import from ireland than uk mainland? there are a few for sale here and up north aswell
Don't forget about CCMs they're basically DRZ400s or DR650s with better suspension and a bit of engine tuning
http://www.donedeal.ie/find/motorbikes/for-sale/Leinster/supermoto
http://www.donedeal.ie/find/motorbikes/for-sale/Ulster/supermoto

It's probably less hassle for me to go via the UK. I can get my brother-in-law to do most of the legwork for me that way. But by the looks of some of them prices, I might save a bit of money in Ireland.

I'm not really in a huge rush to instantly dump my little 125 and go bigger as soon as I pass anyway. I've had it for nearly 3 years now, a few extra months isn't going to hurt. I'd still be restricted to 50mph for a year once I pass anyway.

ReelBigLizard
Feb 27, 2003

Fallen Rib

Zool posted:

Probably the worst starter bike under 1098cc.

I managed it. It's reasonably forgiving if you put it on the soft throttle map.

Dagen H
Mar 19, 2009

Hogertrafikomlaggningen

Pinny posted:

Oh well, I have to wait a month before I'll get another test date, so better luck next time I suppose :(

Now you know exactly where the test route is and what the exercises are. After a month's practice you should be able to do it blindfolded. :)

clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard
Just remember, don't do it blindfolded!

Gay Nudist Dad
Dec 12, 2006

asshole on a scooter
So I'm not sure what the level of acceptability copy/pasting an article is, but HFL posted a compilation of responses to a Reddit Ask Me Anything thread on motorcycle theft with responses from a UK cop and an American thief.

Since it's not original content I'm pasting it here before it goes behind HFL's paywall, because they're classy and will probably put freely-generated content behind their paywall:

HFL via reddit posted:

So earlier this week, the guys over at RideIt had an idea: solicit a motorcycle thief to do one of their Ask Me Anythings. First answered by a cop in London and later an actual bike thief from the US, the results are positively illuminating. Here, we’ve edited the material into something linear and easily digestible. It’s a must-read if you don’t want your bike to get stolen.

The original Ask Me Anything request reads:

- what type of motorcycles did you target and why?
- what’s the best type of security system we can get for our motorcycles?
- how and where should we position chain locks on our bikes so you don’t take bolt cutters to them? how easy is it to cut high quality locks?
- what deters you the most? as in when you see a motorcycle and analyze it for a steal,
- what makes you go “no, not that one.”
- what does a gallon of bleach taste like after you swallow it?

Let’s look at the responses from the cop first:

“The thing is security costs money. Its not a 100% guarantee but it gives your bike a fighting chance.”

Types of motorcycles: “The most popular bikes for thievery are sports bikes and those bikes which you see around more commonly. Reason being in an age of trackers, HPI checks and people knowing much more about how to be smart when they buy a new vehicle (so as not to buy a stolen one) its much simpler for the thief to break the bike up into parts and sell it for parts. In fact only a few weeks ago we raided a house and found 5 motorcycles in various stages of being stripped down.”

Best security: “The most common way of stealing a motorcycle is by lifting it off of the ground and loading into a van. Quick, easy, quiet, once the bike is in the van its invisible, riding it comes with a greater risk of being caught. Plus you don’t even need to know how to ride it. No need to override the ignition. It couldn’t be simpler. We have seen them in the past put a scaffold tube under the front forks and under the back of the bike near the shock and lift it between 4 of them. Even a big sports bike at 200kg is only 50 kg each.”

“For this reason your first priority must be to stop it getting off the ground. Only a good chain, lock and ground anchor will stop this. Ideally you need something which is hardened and 16mm diameter plus. Otherwise they may well be able to cut it with bolt cutters. Which for them is ideal because its quick and very quiet. A good lock is one which is hard to pick and very hard wearing. We don’t see many picking attacks at all, in fact I don’t think I ever have but for peace of mind I use an abloy on my bike.”

“Another good tip, always lock it off tight, don’t leave a lot of loose chain on the floor. If you do the the chain is vulnerable to freeze and sledge hammer attacks.”

“A decent ground anchor should be very solid indeed. The ones which you sink into concrete are best but not realistic for most people unless you’re putting concrete down anyway. A strong bolt down is mostly very efficient. Some are better than others. I’ve got a hardie ground anchor because you can lift a lorry cab up with it and it won’t break. Another great thing, disc lock alarms. I’ve got two, one on each wheel. If the bike starts moving they go off and make a right ruckus, just what the thieves hate. Also things like alphadot, smartwater, with visible stickers are deterrents too.”

“Ideally garage your bike. If its on a driveway then get one of those PIR security lights. The thieves do not want a “and by the light let your good work shine” type scenario. A dummy CCTV camera is good to, because a lot of thieves will be put off even if they think its a fake.”

“In terms of decent locks the very best padlock that I know of is the Abloy Protec 362. Its what I use. Its got a 15mm boron steel shackle, very heavy duty. Its military grade, used in bank vaults. The Squire 65CS is another good one, although not as hard to pick as the abloy. In fact the abloy is yet to be picked I believe. The abloy is very pricey. Look out for them on ebay. It will be a significant saving for you. Those locks are both very hard to bolt cut. The squire hides the shackle (shrouded). Makes it hard to get any sort of grip on it with bolt cutters. Often you can’t even see enough of it to put cutters on it. The weak point is normally the chain. A lot of manufacturers make lightweight chains you can use around town but are bolt cutter resistant, not proof.”

How to lock up: “Ideally not through a wheel. A wheel is easy to remove. Its great having a really secure wheel but like I say a lot of the time they get sold as spares so through the frame is great. You can’t do that with my bike so I’ve put it through the gap between the engine block and the down pipes then through the front forks which is either going to be quite time consuming (likely set the disc lock alarms off) or very noisy. Lock the chain off tight. What I mean by that is it shouldn’t have much slack between the bike and floor at all. You may have to make a cut in the chain sleeve in order to be able to do this. But its really worth it. If the chain is loose on the floor its much more vulnerable to sledge hammer attacks, freeze attacks, wedge attacks and bolt cutters.”

How to deter a thief: “The biggest deterrent is a secure motorcycle. Reason being there are lot of insecure ones out there and they will go for the low hanging fruit every time.”

“Remember what a thief doesn’t want is to be caught. Being caught is the biggest hazard in their line of business. Business is how most of them see it. Make your bike more risky than other bikes and they’ll go for easier pickings. Reminds me a while a go I was on foot patrol and saw a lovely Ducati 916 with a chain through the back wheel, not attached to anything. I did give the owner some advice and it was heartening to see that he did take it on board. Ultimately your goal should be making getting caught in the act as likely as possible and the maximise the time it would take to steal the bike.”

“The point is, the more trouble the thief has to go to the longer its going to take. The vast majority of thieves got for the low hanging fruit. This is about not making your bike the low hanging fruit.”

And here’s what the thief has to say:

“I’m not exactly sure how I ended up with this life. I was basically a normal American kid who was very shy and did well in school. My best friend was basically a dirtbag and he made it seem cool to be a dirtbag. I started off dropping him off at bikes to steal, then scouting out bikes for him to steal, then helping him steal bikes, then stealing them together.”

“I figured out quickly that the guys we sold the bikes to made more money and assumed far less risk so I saved my money so I could get on that end of things.”

“I considered myself small time but I was involved in the scene for over 10 years. While my name was brought up in investigations I was never charged with a crime related to this business and I never “informed” on anyone. I quit when I felt the risk exceeded the reward. Maybe it was the guilt, the shame, maybe I was just finally growing up. I lived a lie for a long time and even if no one knew it I was painfully embarrassed inside because of the life I had been leading. I love motorcycles and I was the man responsible for that sickening feeling you have when you wake up to realize your baby has been stolen and I was responsible for it A LOT. Towards the end I would sleep in sweat pants and a hoodie because I knew any day my door was going to be kicked in and I wanted to be comfortable as possible in jail.”

“I’ve been out of it all for 4-5 years and I still am trying to figure out how I became that guy.”


Types of motorcycles: “Mostly supersports. They are the most commonly crashed and generally the easiest to find (left outside in nice apartment complexes) Next would be Harleys and for a brief moment in time the high dollar choppers.”

Best security: “Never, ever, never never never, NEVER leave your bike outside at an apartment complex. Especially one with a gated parking garage. The gated parking garage in a mid to high rise apartment building in the nice part of a large city is the number one place for bike thieves to go ‘shopping.’”

“As far as passive devices go I like the NYC fughetaboutit chain/lock from Kryptonite, the thicker of the two. It needs to go through something like a braced swingarm whenever possible. If you absolutely have to put it through a wheel put it through the rear wheel. It takes much longer to swap than the front wheel. Any $100 disc lock will work well, again, rear wheel, locks on the front are more easily defeated, take my word for it. Cheaper disc locks can be quietly, well, we’ll leave it at that, cheap ones can be defeated in silence.”

“Lo-jack and Lo-Jack w/early warning are pretty good at recovering the bikes from amateurs and semi-pros, but someone who knows what they are doing will remove the lojack system quickly after clearing the area. Still someone even more professional (surprisingly rare) will have somewhere to check/store/breakdown the bike that is rf shielded. The problem with lo-jack is that it doesn’t keep someone from stealing the bike. Even if you get it back in one piece without the police crashing into your bike to catch the thief you’ll still likely have a broken upper triple, damage to the neck of your frame (Steering lock), damage to your ignition, damage to the tank lock, possible damage to the tank itself (rareish) possible damage to the trunk lock , and then your insurance company might gently caress you too. It’s much better to not get the bike stolen in the first place. So in addition to lo-jack you want some sort of VISIBLE passive devices to make the thief move on. The paging alarms are somewhat effective, but they aren’t linked to the police. Removing electronic devices is obviously more of a mental challenge than a physical one. The quality of the install is a huge factor here. Hide the lo-jack or alarm in or under the airbox and all the wiring within the factory looms and you’ll have a good set up. However, almost NO dealer tech is this thorough. It’s not his bike, why would he go the extra mile?”

Best locks: “Of the dozens of [thieves] I knew over the years I only came across one like this, but I knew someone that had a pair of bolt-cutters that weighed a lot, more than a 45lb plate at the gym, and had replaceable cryogenically hardened teeth. They cost several hundred dollars. The high dollar chain lock sets $150+ are worth it. Even the high dollar braided cable locks are good. They can be cut, but it’s a pretty time consuming process.”

What makes you pass over a bike? “Personally, if it’s rashed up, looks cosmetically rough, but mechanically sound. Say grips are worn, been dropped on both sides, but the chain is clean and well-adjusted, tires worn hard on the edges, has any signs of safety-wiring for the track etc. It’s lack of value isn’t what I’m looking it. It would remind me of myself once upon a time. I think that’s probably all he’s got, his whole world, it’s not pretty, but he rides the piss out of it. He gets a pass.”

“More for most people, just what takes time. I’ve known very very few stone cold guys that can sit there for an hour working on a bike. Most people will give it a few seconds, maybe a couple minutes, and if they can’t get it they are gone. What is only seconds feels like an eternity when your freedom and life are on the line. Quality disc lock on the rear wheel, quality chain and lock, lockable bike cover and theft coverage on your insurance. For me, lo-jack isn’t worth the cost. It’s more expensive than theft coverage and after a thief has had his way with the bike I don’t want it back. All can fit in a back pack and aren’t much of a hassle to carry. Never leave it outside very long day or night.”

Security tips: “If you’re temporarily parked outside somewhere a good little FREE anti-theft trick, bring a stubby flathead with you and remove your clutch lever. No clutch lever and they aren’t riding anywhere. Of course if you do this every night outside your apartment they’ll just come back with their own clutch lever.”

“LOCK YOUR loving STEERING – DON’T LEAVE YOUR SPARE KEY IN YOUR TRUNK. I can open your trunk with a butter knife, don’t leave me your loving key in there, jesus. Happens more often than you think. Also, don’t leave your TITLE in the trunk, i’ve seen this too often too. Steering locks aren’t that hard to bypass, but they aren’t THAT easy either. Sometimes you get the freak one that doesn’t want to break and you’ll need to come back with a second person. In that time maybe the owner sees the bike and the thief doesn’t get it. Had it been unlocked the bike would be gone.”

“Again, if you park outside of an apartment and your bike gets stolen, rent a loving garage or self-storage unit near by to use as a garage. The thief is just going to wait a couple weeks for insurance to replace your bike and come back to check. If someone tries and fails to get your bike the same thing applies. Move it, they WILL be back.”

How much do you earn per bike? “It varies depending on yr/make/model/condition. About 10-12 years ago there was an out of state buyer we used to crate bikes to that had the ability to create titles for them who paid $3500 for near new 1000cc supersports. 1,000-1,500 is more typical for super sports. Harleys vary quite a bit depending on model and options, from 1,000 for a basic late model sportster to several thousand for a highly optioned fat boy, road king etc.”

Ride ‘em or van ‘em? “There is this common misconception that a few guys load bikes into trucks and vans. The people who get CAUGHT load bikes into trucks and vans. Your career will be very short if you’re loading a 185mph rocket (that likely has a tracking system) that will outrun the police into the back of an 85mph van that will take you to the scene of your arrest. If you can’t start the bike and ride off then you drat sure can’t find and remove lojack.”

“In 10-15 years I’ve known a couple dozen thieves and only one that was foolish enough to load bikes into a truck or van for any length of time. He learned to wire them after he was caught, twice, lol.”

“I was taught to never ride a hot bike anywhere you didn’t absolutely have to and to ride strictly by the letter of the law. You don’t get it if you don’t have somewhere to take it, you don’t ride like a jackass and risk your money/freedom, it’s not a bike, it’s a job, and it’s payday. Generally you got the bike, rode it straight to your destination, and broke it down.”

A final word: “The majority of thieves aren’t that smart and half of those are on drugs, please don’t be dumber than they are.”

I thought it was interesting that he debunks the "they just load it into a van" thing, even after the cop reaffirms it. Maybe a UK/US style difference, or even a regional thing? Because that seems to be a very common refrain whenever this discussion comes up.

The final gist and thing they both agree on, though, is "make your bike harder to steal than the next one" (and don't own sportsbikes).

Gay Nudist Dad fucked around with this message at 23:08 on May 4, 2012

Fangs404
Dec 20, 2004

I time bomb.
I like this bit:

quote:

What makes you pass over a bike? “Personally, if it’s rashed up, looks cosmetically rough, but mechanically sound. Say grips are worn, been dropped on both sides, but the chain is clean and well-adjusted, tires worn hard on the edges, has any signs of safety-wiring for the track etc. It’s lack of value isn’t what I’m looking it. It would remind me of myself once upon a time. I think that’s probably all he’s got, his whole world, it’s not pretty, but he rides the piss out of it. He gets a pass.”

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Gay Nudist Dad posted:

So I'm not sure what the level of acceptability copy/pasting an article is, but HFL posted a compilation of responses to a Reddit Ask Me Anything thread on motorcycle theft with responses from a UK cop and an American thief.

Since it's not original content I'm pasting it here before it goes behind HFL's paywall, because they're classy and will probably put freely-generated content behind their paywall:


I thought it was interesting that he debunks the "they just load it into a van" thing, even after the cop reaffirms it. Maybe a UK/US style difference, or even a regional thing? Because that seems to be a very common refrain whenever this discussion comes up.

The final gist and thing they both agree on, though, is "make your bike harder to steal than the next one" (and don't own sportsbikes).

In the uk and here in ireland its probably van driving tinkers doing the robbing, so back of a van theft is pretty common.

Often you see pro guys working in pairs, riding around on a bike, they duck in and out of apartment complex and factory carparks, pillion hops off and goes to work on the target bike, if they're interrupted they both take off on the first bike, if not they ride away with a bike each.

My mate had his bike stolen from his company carpark by a bunch of bored teenagers, they cut a lock on a pedestrian gate and 4 or them carried the bike away to somewhere they could work on the locks in peace. luckily we found them joyriding it and got it back after some mild drama.
Same little fuckers robbed another guys bike from outside a chipshop on the same street in the space of time it took him to buy a bag of chips. If i remember right it was found wadded with a big crotch dent in the tank, so there was some small karmic justice brought to bear on the robbing cunts.

Mcqueen
Feb 26, 2007

'HEY MOM, I'M DONE WITH MY SEGMENT!'


Soiled Meat
Hahaha I like that too. Rash your bike for its own protection, folks.

Makes sense there's more dedicated bike thieves (more vans)in the UK, more bikes over there, right? Honestly, when I see a nondescript van in Seattle I raise an eyebrow, but all those vids from Europe and the UK are full of them. I couldn't see a team of thieves around here that focused exclusively on bikes, maybe places where its actually sunny.

Baller Witness Bro
Nov 16, 2006

Hey FedEx, how dare you deliver something before your "delivered by" time.
I'm a firm believer that you need to have comprehensive with a low deductible as your best bike lock. Short of adding an extra hour to your morning commute to remove locks and chains it's still hard to deter a thief who has nothing better to do with his life.

The clutch lever removal is a really good idea for parking somewhere shady temporarily. I'd never heard that before.

iwentdoodie
Apr 29, 2005

🤗YOU'RE WELCOME🤗
Anyone in the Portland area have a shop they prefer?

I have nowhere at all to work on my bike, and need tires put on and a chain. There's two shops near me, one won't touch a bike older than 1995, and the other wants close to 250 for tires and chain. :( I'm in Vancouver, but am willing to ride into Portland.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

iwentdoodie posted:

one won't touch a bike older than 1995

:what:

What is the logic behind that?

iwentdoodie
Apr 29, 2005

🤗YOU'RE WELCOME🤗

slidebite posted:

:what:

What is the logic behind that?

No idea. Makes no loving sense to me, and the dude couldn't answer me when I asked him why, with anything other than "well, most shops won't touch old bikes..."

Slim Pickens
Jan 12, 2007

Grimey Drawer
Anybody in the Seattle area know someone who owns a CB350 and would be willing to do a bike exchange for a couple days? I'm doing a short film and need the actor to ride around on it on Washington Blvd and park at a sunset, nothing crazy. They'd get to borrow my '99 Ducati Monster for the day or two I'm shooting, just don't crash it.

Odette
Mar 19, 2011

The methods that thieves use actually do vary.

In NZ the most common theft method is just riding the bike away, there's only a couple of cases that I've heard of when vans are used.

Bike market here is tiny, and the majority of thieves seem to just be joyriders.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

iwentdoodie posted:

No idea. Makes no loving sense to me, and the dude couldn't answer me when I asked him why, with anything other than "well, most shops won't touch old bikes..."

Jesus, the shops around here are scared of newer bikes if anything.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000

iwentdoodie posted:

Anyone in the Portland area have a shop they prefer?

I have nowhere at all to work on my bike, and need tires put on and a chain. There's two shops near me, one won't touch a bike older than 1995, and the other wants close to 250 for tires and chain. :( I'm in Vancouver, but am willing to ride into Portland.
I can't believe in a city that big there isn't some kinda indie bike shop you can go to. What's wrong with the 250 though? If that's parts included, that doesn't sound crazy to me.

iwentdoodie
Apr 29, 2005

🤗YOU'RE WELCOME🤗

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

I can't believe in a city that big there isn't some kinda indie bike shop you can go to. What's wrong with the 250 though? If that's parts included, that doesn't sound crazy to me.

That's labor. As in, I bring the tires and chain. I'm sure there is an indie, I just don't know of any and if they're any good or not. :( Also, the one who won't touch old bikes was an indie that supposedly supports all forms of motorcycling and racing and enthusiast owned.

Unless you ride something that isn't a dirtbike or super sport, apparently.

EDIT: Holy poo poo, posted up at 2strokeworld and had three names and numbers in less than 10 minutes. I loving love the vintage community.

iwentdoodie fucked around with this message at 03:50 on May 5, 2012

Marv Hushman
Jun 2, 2010

Freedom Ain't Free
:911::911::911:

slidebite posted:

:what:
What is the logic behind that?

Probably the same logic as older cars--because labor hours can rapidly exceed the street value of the vehicle, and small business owners can only handle being stiffed once or twice by people abandoning 1987 Yamaha Maxims. Some people still operate with a handshake and don't necessarily have contracts with the right legalese or the time/wherewithal to pursue deadbeats.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

A 1995 Suzuki isn't worth appreciably more than a 1985. If it's a money thing, you do what everyone else does and ask for a deposit up front before doing anything major.

iwentdoodie
Apr 29, 2005

🤗YOU'RE WELCOME🤗

Marv Hushman posted:

Probably the same logic as older cars--because labor hours can rapidly exceed the street value of the vehicle, and small business owners can only handle being stiffed once or twice by people abandoning 1987 Yamaha Maxims. Some people still operate with a handshake and don't necessarily have contracts with the right legalese or the time/wherewithal to pursue deadbeats.

I really can't see tires and a chain turning into a 1000+ repair. That argument makes no sense. There's nothing more to doing it on an old bike versus a new one.

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Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

iwentdoodie posted:

I really can't see tires and a chain turning into a 1000+ repair. That argument makes no sense. There's nothing more to doing it on an old bike versus a new one.

What happens is this:

They get some guy who needs tires and a chain.

They get the bike, half the bearings on the bike are seized, the rotors, pads, and brake fluid is shot. This isn't even considering other things that the owner hasn't noticed, like a JBWelded block or god knows what else. Bearings will run you 60 bucks plus an hour of shop time, the tire and chain are probably being billed at an hour of shop time each, brake pads and fluid are 100 bucks, plus another hour of shop time, and oh poo poo, you just discovered they've never been maintained so brakes need a rebuild and the rotors are hosed and...

And that's how you end up with a thousand dollar repair bill on a chain and sprocket set.

And that's not even getting into "Hey, it's not running right, clean the carbs out!", only to discover that you have low compression on one cylinder or a coil is dead or there's some electrical problem that's causing it to cut out...basically, there's no money in old bikes because for the cost of the repair they could just go buy a new one. Diagnosing an electrical issue can take forever, especially if your techs don't really know how bikes work and A->B their way using a repair manual and the parts inventory of the shop.

Of course, there's a group of guys out there who know the ins and outs of these bikes and can pull a profit on them as a result of it, but your typically dealership doesn't touch them with a ten foot pole because the couple of bucks they lose in shop fees are made up by the next squid who wants a gixxah.

poo poo, I remember a guy who had a $20,000 GSX-R600. Crashed it, wanted it stretched and lowered, and they just kept rolling it into his loan on the bike...eventually, he had a slammed, crashed, stretched GSX-R600 that was 3 years old that he still owed 19k on, because he'd been making minimum payments for 3 years.

Z3n fucked around with this message at 04:11 on May 5, 2012

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