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Today I was changing my brakes, and my goddamn caliper bolts broke:( I was undoing the caliper bolt, when suddendly, SNAP, and it became VERY loose. I pulled it out, and yep, the bolt is snapped. I went to the other one, tried it, and snapped that one too. Picture of the snapped caliper slide bolt inside the...I don't know what it's called...subframe of some sort?  Now, in February, I went into Monroe Muffler to get my exhaust fixed, and I asked them to also do my brakes, since they were squealing like a mofo. They said the brakes were good, and that was that. Here is a picture of the rotor and brake pads...  The other side of the rotor is nice and smooth. The whole thing pisses me off. Anyway, two questions: 1: Do I have any recourse for Monroe to fix this for me free of charge since they said the brakes were fine two and a half months ago, and if not, 2: How the hell do I get the end of the bolt out of the place where it's snapped off in? Sorry about the rambling, it's been a poo poo day. Ninja Edit: I'be heard conflicting things about this. Is it ok or not to stick anti-seize on brake Caliper bolts? Edit: Unfucked the images, sorry for the holy poo poo hugeness. Dradien fucked around with this message at 22:07 on May 5, 2012 |
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May 5, 2012 22:05
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You'll probably need to replace the caliper mounting bracket. You _may_ be able to get that off, the bolts are larger, will probably need substantial force to break the rusted bolts free, but that's your best option at this point. (you technically can drill out the mounting bolts that snapped, but with that rust... god help you.) Monroe probably saw the rusted-to-poo poo status of the brakes and didn't want to touch it. No real recourse.
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May 5, 2012 22:48
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jonathan posted:However my father called me up yesterday and told me that because the lines we're using are bigger than the factory hino stuff, we're losing braking power due to increased line volume. I told him that shouldn't be the case. He seemed to think that because there is more surface area in the lines, we would be losing effective pressure at the cylinder. No. You put force into the system with the pedal. It gets transferred into pressure in the fluid, which will be constant no matter how much volume or surface area that you have. At the other end, it gets changed back into force. The force you push on the pedal shouldn't change, the pressure in the lines shouldn't change, and the force at the brakes shouldn't change (assuming you aren't changing any of pistons/cylinders). The only thing increasing line size does is decrease pressure loss and allow for higher volumetric flow rates. If you are flowing the same amount of fluid through the line, the velocity through the line would decrease, but that doesn't matter in a static system like brakes.
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May 5, 2012 22:55
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meatpimp posted:You'll probably need to replace the caliper mounting bracket. You _may_ be able to get that off, the bolts are larger, will probably need substantial force to break the rusted bolts free, but that's your best option at this point. (you technically can drill out the mounting bolts that snapped, but with that rust... god help you.) Goddamn it. The replaced the brakes exactly one year ago (all around, everything) for $600 (which is a little goddamn excessive I think) and I paid for the Brakes Forever program. I figured since the squealer tabs were, well, squealing, they might need to be replaced. Ahh well. gently caress them, never going back.
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May 5, 2012 23:06
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I have been having a problem with my 1995 Ford Ranger(4x4 4.0 automatic) on and off for a while now. It will bog at idle/idle rough/stall when the idle drops down to ~500 rpm after becoming warm. It also occasionally has stutters and almost dies when I am in traffic and push the gas pedal to move forward then get off of the gas and on to the brake pedal. This has happening occasionally for two months or so now. It has only popped a CEL code once: P0171, which is for the cylinder bank on the passenger side running lean. I have replaced the MAF sensor, the idle air control valve, the pcv valve, both pre-catalytic converter O2 sensors and the fuel presure regulator. I have sprayed starter fluid all over the intake manifold to see if there were any surges to detect a vacuum leak while there was one minor surge I was unable to repeat it. After I replaced the O2 sensors I unhooked the battery in order to clear the fuel maps and that cleared the CEL, which has not come back yet. As of last night it has stalled a total of 3 times, and I am at a loss as to what to do.
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May 5, 2012 23:22
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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:I have been having a problem with my 1995 Ford Ranger(4x4 4.0 automatic) on and off for a while now. It will bog at idle/idle rough/stall when the idle drops down to ~500 rpm after becoming warm. It also occasionally has stutters and almost dies when I am in traffic and push the gas pedal to move forward then get off of the gas and on to the brake pedal. Doing the starter fluid trick is really hard to get right in my experience. Did you check all the vacuum hoses coming off the intake manifold in addition to the manifold gasket and throttle-body gasket locations? Visually inspect the hoses for cracks or feel them for brittleness. A propane tank with a little nozzle on the end of hose is a little bit more precise than starter fluid in my experience, but the ultimate best option would be a smoke machine if you can get your hands on one(lightly pressurize the intake with the engine off and see where/if the smoke comes out). peepsalot fucked around with this message at 23:48 on May 5, 2012 |
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May 5, 2012 23:38
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What year is this SAAB 96? What is the ballpark on something like this? It's going to be up for sale soon and I thought a GOON might want to know. It is not mine and I am not connected to the seller. I know where it can be found and likely very cheap since I just got my own project for 1/3 of his asking price. It has been sitting for 10 years.  Photo Albumhttp://tinyurl.com/6wrsqd2 extreme_accordion fucked around with this message at 02:11 on May 6, 2012 |
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May 6, 2012 02:08
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peepsalot posted:Did you search on http://car-part.com/ ? It's like a database of salvage yard inventories. Thanks for the link, turns out there's a place a mile and a half away from my house that has one with "CURB MARKS MINOR" for $75. I'll trade some minor curb marks for this any day:  
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May 6, 2012 05:48
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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:I have been having a problem with my 1995 Ford Ranger(4x4 4.0 automatic) on and off for a while now. It will bog at idle/idle rough/stall when the idle drops down to ~500 rpm after becoming warm. It also occasionally has stutters and almost dies when I am in traffic and push the gas pedal to move forward then get off of the gas and on to the brake pedal. a 1995 Ranger has OBD II? edit: looks like 95 was their transition year with horror stories about trying to actually scan them Joe 30330 fucked around with this message at 07:10 on May 6, 2012 |
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May 6, 2012 07:07
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tkNukem posted:What did you end up doing with this repair? If only you could break whatever god-strengthened rust had that thing seized, you could've just bought a new control arm to save time from having to press the old one out http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1027580 I did indeed end up buying the tool I linked to, it worked but basically rendered it useless in the process. The threads on the tool bolt were totally shot and I returned it to Napa for a refund. Buying a new control arm wasn't really feasible since I had already bought the new balljoint. Also, the s-series ball joints aren't pressed into the control arm, they're riveted at the factory (a chore in itself to remove) and the replacements bolt in.
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May 6, 2012 10:29
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General_Failure posted:Easy there. Don't make assumptions on belt cost. But unless there is some seriously dodgy engineering it should be an easy job. My DD fairlane is about as easy as it gets. Spring loaded tensioner with a 3/8" square hole to put a breaker bar in. Push it in, unhook the old belt, loop the new one around the pulleys and release the bar. I have a 97 Cutlass and the serpentine belt costs about $40-50 for a generic one. It loops around the motor mount, so replacing it means that you have to support the engine and remove the mount. Also, there isn't enough clearance to get any sort of ratchet or breaker bar on the tensioner pulley, so I had to go spend another $50 on a serpentine belt tool. It is nowhere near as bad as replacing a heater core or brake lines or something like that, but it is definitely not a quick job. I really miss working on cars from the 60s and early 70s 
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May 6, 2012 15:45
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2006 Chevy Cobalt SS w/ 90k miles. My clutch has been riding very high the past month. I know nothing about transmissions but I assume the clutch is bad and need to be replaced, right? None of the gears are slipping but it feels like 2nd gear is kind of weak sometimes. Just want a general idea of what could be wrong before I call my mechanic.
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May 6, 2012 18:03
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Stupid car buying question: Car I'm buying is currently PP with USAA as the lender. I got approved by Penfed for a loan. Problem: I'm in PA, car is in Texas, I want to drive it/register it in Wisconsin. According to the lady I spoke to at Penfed, the right thing to do is for me to have the seller fill out a bill of sale/have USAA send the payoff amount to them, have them send me a check, fly down to Texas, hand over the check made out to USAA/seller, and drive back to Wisconsin. At the same time, the seller with pay off the car with USAA, who will then send the title to Penfed, who will then send the title to me. Does this sound right? Will I be able to drive the car around for a few days without a copy of the title in hand for registration purposes?
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May 6, 2012 18:41
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peepsalot posted:words Thanks for a quick reply. All of the vacuum lines and misc gaskets look good.There is a supposedly common problem where the intake manifold loosens up, but that doesn't seem to be the problem either. I am going to test/pull the egr valve today, I feel really dumb for overlooking that. This problem started right before a midterm week so I just blanket replaced whatever I thought would be the problem since most of this stuff looks original.
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May 6, 2012 20:59
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2008 Dodge Avenger SXT. When taking turns at like 20-30mph, I hear a "whomp whomp whomp" noise coming from the wheels. Think, helicopter sound. Any ideas where to start with this? Brakes were just changed last month, and tires are a little over a year old.
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May 6, 2012 21:48
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'75 VW Type 2. White with a black stripe. Adjusters on the rear drums are seized. What do I do? There are two star adjusters per side. I have freed one up on the right with penetrating oil, screwdriver and rubber mallet. The other I have freed the star wheel but the threaded bit is still seized. Other side can't say yet but I think one is free and the other seized. So yeah as I was saying what's next? Adjusting the brakes was one of my last list items. It's opened up another can of worms too with play in the bearings but one thing at a time.
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May 6, 2012 21:57
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BoyBlunder posted:2008 Dodge Avenger SXT. Put the front on jack stands and try to move the wheel around, if there is play then the problem could be worn ball joints. Also look in the wheel well and see if there is anything that the wheel hits when turning. While the front is up on stands look under there to see if anything looks obviously damaged.
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May 6, 2012 23:17
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Buddy has a 2000 Nissan Altima 2.4L about 200k miles with overheating issues. It's only popped up in the last week or so, gone from nothing to pretty bad in a short time. He says oil and coolant look fairly clean. Upper radiator hose apparently popped and was replaced; shop suggested he do the thermostat and flush the radiator as well. Apparently when it overheats (consistently after about a half hour) turning the A/C off will help somewhat, but turning the heat on full blast only mitigates it beyond that, won't keep the temps fully under control. Radiator gets hot, so coolant is flowing at least a little bit through the thermostat, and the fans seem to be operating normally. I'm gonna go take a look at it tomorrow. We're gonna go ahead and do the thermostat (gently caress it, it's a ten dollar part), but I don't know if this is a common issue for these cars. Does this sound like a dirty radiator, partially siezed thermo, head gasket, something else? Any input is appreciated tia.
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May 7, 2012 02:17
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Edit: sorry, misread.
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May 7, 2012 04:03
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I dared attempt to fix a 98 Grand Cherokee 4x4 5.2l V8 with the infamous rough idle that appears out of nowhere. Knocked out O2 sensors which were throwing codes. Still didn't fix it. Because it was crusty and corroded, I replaced idle air control valve, but haven't replaced throttle control sensor yet (I do have it). I bumped into throttle cable assembly a couple of times, but not violently. I mention this because, upon turning the car on, it revs to 2,000RPM and the gas pedal is half depressed. WTF is going on here? I disconnected the battery overnight to see if the PCM just needs to be reset. Everything looks normal for the TV, cruise, and gas pedal cable, at least to my knowledge...
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May 7, 2012 05:20
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Fucknag posted:Buddy has a 2000 Nissan Altima 2.4L about 200k miles with overheating issues. It's only popped up in the last week or so, gone from nothing to pretty bad in a short time. He says oil and coolant look fairly clean. Upper radiator hose apparently popped and was replaced; shop suggested he do the thermostat and flush the radiator as well. Apparently when it overheats (consistently after about a half hour) turning the A/C off will help somewhat, but turning the heat on full blast only mitigates it beyond that, won't keep the temps fully under control. Radiator gets hot, so coolant is flowing at least a little bit through the thermostat, and the fans seem to be operating normally. These cars have a horrible design wherein they place the EGR pipe dangerously close to the number 4 cylinder, which cooks the gasket between the plenum and the head. This will cause lean mixture and misfire in number 4, as well as throw P0304. Back to your problem... there is an engine block bleeder screw located just above the negative terminal wire connection to the engine. Just above the position of the thermostat. It's a 12mm. Loosen it up to bleed the engine block while filling cooling system with fluid. You have bubbles in the system which are super hot and allow portions of the engine to get to insane temperatures. ALWAYS CHECK TO SEE IF YOU NEED TO BLEED A SYSTEM BEFORE YOU loving CHANGE COOLANT SYSTEMS. It warps the gently caress out of the engine.
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May 7, 2012 05:25
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Hey so I hit a chunk of tire on the highway in a 2010 Honda civic. Well long story short I fixed the bumper but yesterday this piece fell off in front of the driver side wheel. I assume it is the air filter intake. If it is can I drive for a while without it. Would putting a sock over the pipe be a good enough temporary fix? (sorry for b/w)  
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May 7, 2012 17:41
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I asked in this thread a couple weeks ago and didn't get an answer, so I'm taking another shot - I had a brake line blow out on me today, so I picked up a new line and a bending tool. The tool didn't come with any instructions. What do the letters "O L R" mean? From searching the web, I think it refers to Offset, Left, Right but I don't understand what that means. For reference, the tool I have looks just like this one: http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_0701_stainless_steel_tubing/photo_17.html Any recommendations on a good tool for smaller radius bends? The one I have makes nice bends, but it is about a 1" radius and I'm going to need tighter bends than that.
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May 7, 2012 18:13
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MAJOR STRYkER posted:Hey so I hit a chunk of tire on the highway in a 2010 Honda civic. Well long story short I fixed the bumper but yesterday this piece fell off in front of the driver side wheel. I assume it is the air filter intake. If it is can I drive for a while without it. Would putting a sock over the pipe be a good enough temporary fix? Is that the actual air filter box, or is it just the resonator/silencer that some cars have?
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May 7, 2012 18:25
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Sweevo posted:Is that the actual air filter box, or is it just the resonator/silencer that some cars have? I don't have a drat clue but it doesn't look like it opens up. Anyway I put some epoxy'd some plastic together and put it back on. Hopefully it will hold until I can get to a junkyard. I was just hoping one of you could identify exactly what it is.
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May 7, 2012 18:53
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Hope a small engine question is OK here. I don't know poo poo about gently caress, so bear with me. My lawn mower won't start. I put it away last season with old gas in it, of course. I emptied the tank and the fuel line, and I took the carburetor apart and soaked everything in carb cleaner for a while. It's a lot cleaner, but the mower still doesn't want to run. When I put some gas/starter fluid in the carb it will run beautifully for 5-10 seconds, but it quits as soon as that burns off. It doesn't want to start pulling fuel from the tank for some reason. There is no fuel filter, and I've confirmed gas is freely flowing to the carburetor. Air filter is clean. Any ideas? Fake edit: it's this engine, if that helps.
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May 7, 2012 23:26
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I want to wire up a couple of those usb power adapters to perma-wire phone chargers. The problem is they are all shaped like cigarette lighters. I need something I can wire directly. I can take apart a unit and try and build an enclosure but I'd rather avoid that if possible. Is there like a hobbyist version of this I could build?
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May 7, 2012 23:29
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Skeleton Ape posted:Hope a small engine question is OK here. I don't know poo poo about gently caress, so bear with me. The jet is probably clogged. Take the carb back apart and check for daylight through the little tube that goes from the bowl into the venturi. If its clogged sometimes just blasting through the tube with carb cleaner works or if not then a small piece of wire will do. If you have to use wire make sure not to make the hole any bigger, just poke out the obstruction and clear the rest with carb cleaner.
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May 7, 2012 23:35
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revmoo posted:I want to wire up a couple of those usb power adapters to perma-wire phone chargers. The problem is they are all shaped like cigarette lighters. I need something I can wire directly. I can take apart a unit and try and build an enclosure but I'd rather avoid that if possible. Is there like a hobbyist version of this I could build? What are you asking? I just want a clearer picture of what you want. Are you after a car powered USB port which can be mounted somewhere, potentially in its own enclosure? If I were doing it I'd be tempted to do this: Either get a pre-existing 12v -> USB adapter or just make my own using a +5v linear regulator, remove the port from the board and get (for simplicity's sake) an old backplane, expansion slot or case mounted single or twin USB port with the leads to plug into the mainboard / USB card. Depending on the type, they can be on a small board with its own mounts. You may need to either put these in a small hobby box or if you like making holes, carefully cut and sand a small, USB port(s) shaped hole where you want it. Wire the fly leads to the charger, test, install the ports, wire in the adapter and Bob's your father's brother.
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May 7, 2012 23:53
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General_Failure posted:Either get a pre-existing 12v -> USB adapter or just make my own using a +5v linear regulator, remove the port from the board and get (for simplicity's sake) an old backplane, expansion slot or case mounted single or twin USB port with the leads to plug into the mainboard / USB card. Depending on the type, they can be on a small board with its own mounts. You may need to either put these in a small hobby box or if you like making holes, carefully cut and sand a small, USB port(s) shaped hole where you want it. Wire the fly leads to the charger, test, install the ports, wire in the adapter and Bob's your father's brother. I just bought a car charger for this exact purpose. It was for an unpopular model phone, so it was only 50p on clearance. However, it is a 5V supply and so I can use it for my permanent cable project. Given the tiny size of the PCB and components inside, I'm quite tempted to skip the nice enclosure altogether and just wrap it in insulation tape. Sure, it is ugly, but it is behind the dash, so who cares?
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May 8, 2012 00:04
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spog posted:I just bought a car charger for this exact purpose. It was for an unpopular model phone, so it was only 50p on clearance. However, it is a 5V supply and so I can use it for my permanent cable project. meh. it's up to you. For about 10 years I had a DIY kit digital tach in my VW. By design it had the display board and the logic board, soldered together at a right angle. When I made it I used rainbow ribbon cable to tether it instead. The logic board for the entire span lived in a clear bag, possibly the one the project came in, with the end folded over and the whole lot taped to the steering column support under the dash. I held the display in place in a gauge blank using a piece of perspex with four partially expanded rivets in it. the board had a small hole in each corner for box mounting, which I slipped the rivets shanks through and bent slightly so the board would stay put. I also cut some black cardboard to cover everything except the 7 segment LED displays to neaten it up a bit. Installation can take many forms.
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May 8, 2012 00:13
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Billy Tully posted:The jet is probably clogged. Take the carb back apart and check for daylight through the little tube that goes from the bowl into the venturi. If its clogged sometimes just blasting through the tube with carb cleaner works or if not then a small piece of wire will do. If you have to use wire make sure not to make the hole any bigger, just poke out the obstruction and clear the rest with carb cleaner. This thing?  It's hard to see in the picture, but it's totally clear. Wire goes through just fine:  I also blasted cleaner and air through the tube the fuel line goes into (poking out to the left in the second picture). Air flows through easily. I couldn't see any easy way to disassemble the carb further, but the important-looking parts look really clean to me.
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May 8, 2012 01:03
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SkunkDuster posted:I asked in this thread a couple weeks ago and didn't get an answer, so I'm taking another shot - Those marks are for measuring bends. The "Offset" is actually a zero. You bend the tube until the 0 lines up with the angle you want. The L is for normal bends. Make a mark on your tube where you want your vertex, line that up with the L. The R is for a reverse bend vertex.
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May 8, 2012 02:48
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My wife's 97 Audi A6 is low on coolant. We don't have the pink G12 coolant (that's already in it) on hand to top it off. All we have is the pre-mixed green stuff I use in my car. We've been told that mixing these coolants is a bad idea. Any truth to this?
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May 8, 2012 03:06
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Dead Blue Sky posted:My wife's 97 Audi A6 is low on coolant. We don't have the pink G12 coolant (that's already in it) on hand to top it off. All we have is the pre-mixed green stuff I use in my car. We've been told that mixing these coolants is a bad idea. Any truth to this? I'm not sure if it applies in your case but I know mixing some coolants can result in them gelling up inside the block. I'd play it safe and stick with what's in there now. If the level isn't drastically low you could always top the level off with some distilled water. Geoj fucked around with this message at 03:46 on May 8, 2012 |
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May 8, 2012 03:15
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Dead Blue Sky posted:My wife's 97 Audi A6 is low on coolant. We don't have the pink G12 coolant (that's already in it) on hand to top it off. All we have is the pre-mixed green stuff I use in my car. We've been told that mixing these coolants is a bad idea. Any truth to this? Yes. Very bad. If we're talking under 1/2 gallon, just top it off with distilled or DI water. The more important question is "where did a liquid in a supposedly sealed system get to?"
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May 8, 2012 03:20
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Motronic posted:Yes. Very bad. We know there's a leak, but she needs to get to work in the morning. Thanks for the info, this will save us a lot of trouble.
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May 8, 2012 04:00
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Dead Blue Sky posted:We know there's a leak, but she needs to get to work in the morning. Thanks for the info, this will save us a lot of trouble. Based on that information (you have a leak) it means you're gonna be opening the system eventually for a repair. So for now if you don't have DI or distilled water, just use tap water. At this point (assuming you're not somewhere it's getting down to freezing) it's just more important to have it full of water than anything else. When you repair the leak, flush it and fill it back up with a proper mixture. Just don't go running around for weeks with possibly hard tap water in there (it scales things up and makes the cooling system quite inefficient).
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May 8, 2012 04:15
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SkunkDuster posted:I have a 97 Cutlass and the serpentine belt costs about $40-50 for a generic one. It loops around the motor mount, so replacing it means that you have to support the engine and remove the mount. Also, there isn't enough clearance to get any sort of ratchet or breaker bar on the tensioner pulley, so I had to go spend another $50 on a serpentine belt tool. It is nowhere near as bad as replacing a heater core or brake lines or something like that, but it is definitely not a quick job. Luckily it looks like mine isnt attached to the mount. Also the engine bays have enough clearance to get the belt out and the new one in. Shouldn't be that hard of a job.
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May 8, 2012 06:32
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Skeleton Ape posted:This thing? You need to take out the jet and tube (it's above it) with a flat head. Either the jet itself or the side holes on the tube are still clogged. Clean both of those with cleaner + air. You should be golden after that. Also might want to check out the other "motorized things" thread in AI.
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May 8, 2012 06:33
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