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Got an offer on the 636 I don't think I can refuse.  
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May 4, 2012 10:44
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Those dubs need some rimtape.
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May 4, 2012 12:16
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Decided to ride the 125 into work today. Topped out at around 63 indicated with me in a flat tracker tuck. Might need to think about registering it and picking up some street tires, should use less gas than the SV and worked good for the run in this morning.  Also the farthest I've ridden this bike by about 15 miles, glad it made it.
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May 4, 2012 12:30
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I failed inspection for a "missing cotter pin" The mystery cotter pin doesn't exist. There's a hole in the head of the axle bolt that you put your screwdriver through so you can get the castle nut off without spinning the bolt. The dude swore that a cotter pin went through there. IT WOULDN'T DO ANYTHING!  Bottom left is the hole in question.
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May 4, 2012 21:54
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Y'know there's a real simple solution to that problem... I spent some time trying to figure out how to rig up some free cheap panniers I was given. It's not easy as everything on the tail is angled. Anyone else done rigged setups?
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May 4, 2012 22:05
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Installed a TankSlapper on my VFR800 today. It's like a Zagg InvisibleShield for the top areas of the bike, and apparently comes with zero directions. It was like putting together a puzzle in the shape of the top of my fairings and tank. It looks pretty good and is nice an inconspicuous, hopefully it'll stay that way after sitting for 24 hours.
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May 4, 2012 22:13
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Saved many, many lives:
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May 4, 2012 23:17
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nsaP posted:Y'know there's a real simple solution to that problem... Yeah but it requires me going home and getting a cotter pin. So much for passing inspection on lunch break. At least they didn't charge me.
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May 4, 2012 23:25
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Yeah but it requires me going home and getting a cotter pin. So much for passing inspection on lunch break. Paper clip and the parts fische, do it tomorrow.
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May 4, 2012 23:32
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Yeah that's pretty dumb still. Bonus points if it's a different person next time and they ask why you have a cotter pin in there.
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May 4, 2012 23:32
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Finished out pipes and air cleaner... Yup.
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May 5, 2012 05:48
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I had planned on not riding the 636 while it's up for sale, but after two weeks of that bs I took a 360 mile trip on it today. Most of that was sweeping county roads culminating in finding this by accident, which of course is starting to make me think I should just keep the bike. Needs handlebars though, my whole upper back is killing me.
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May 5, 2012 22:29
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Or just keep riding until your muscles get toned. You can't ride something infrequently and then blame the machine. For example I get leg cramps on my standard 1977 CB750. That's because I spend 75% of my riding time on my R6 and that is what my body is used to.
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May 6, 2012 00:00
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Tighten up your core and use your legs to clench the tank a bit to give your arms less to hold up.
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May 6, 2012 00:55
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I don't think it's my positioning, I cycled through about four different ones throughout the day. It is probably lack of riding it more than anything, that and not taking enough breaks.
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May 6, 2012 02:01
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Crayvex posted:Or just keep riding until your muscles get toned. You can't ride something infrequently and then blame the machine. For example I get leg cramps on my standard 1977 CB750. That's because I spend 75% of my riding time on my R6 and that is what my body is used to. I seriously want to write a book and call it "The R6 Workout." My first-gen did so much for my core strength that I could ride my VFR all day.
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May 6, 2012 05:15
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I failed inspection for a "missing cotter pin" The cotter pin you miss goes in the right side, through the hole in the axle and between the cut-outs of the nut.
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May 6, 2012 09:17
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Sir Cornelius posted:The cotter pin you miss goes in the right side, through the hole in the axle and between the cut-outs of the nut. There's already one in there, and was there during the inspection. (this is not my pic i just grabbed one from google for illustration purposes) nsaP posted:Yeah that's pretty dumb still. Bonus points if it's a different person next time and they ask why you have a cotter pin in there. By refuses I mean outright REFUSES to pass them. The dealer has to take bikes to the gas station nearby to have them inspect THEIR OWN bikes, because their inspector won't pass them. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 16:08 on May 6, 2012 |
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May 6, 2012 16:04
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:It will be a different person next time. They call this guy "the Rejector" because he apparently refuses to pass bikes. I would just fire that guy. Seriously how can he still work there if he won't do hd job correctly?
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May 6, 2012 16:40
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Well, I found the blinker problem. The free-air splice in the tail for the left turn signal had managed to rub against the free-air splice for the ground and short it when vibes were right. Somehow my bike fell off its wooden block when the forks were off and then someone ran into it while it was down, crunching the rear tail light. Just the plastic and one bulb were crushed. However, that piece of plastic is $40. I found a local motorcycle salvage yard (!!) and went to look at their stuff. Nothing for an '02 bandit, but I did walk away with an '00 GSF-500 tail assembly for $30, two working bulbs included. Some dremel time, some angle brackets, and some zip ties later, and I've got a new tail light that works. I also fixed all the free-air splices with some environmental ones, and installed a molex connector so I can actually take the pieces out without cutting wires. Also found out that the bike was over on its side enough for the battery to lose half its water. I filled it with distilled, but it's probably going to ruin the life of the thing. Good news: my charging system puts out 14.4V@17A at 1100RPM. <3 sport-tourer electrics.
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May 6, 2012 17:52
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Errant Gin Monks posted:I would just fire that guy. Seriously how can he still work there if he won't do hd job correctly? His only job isn't to do inspections. He was just the only guy there that day licensed to do them. I'm assuming they don't fire him because he does what he's supposed to do and does it well, he just has a personal vendetta against inspecting bikes. (Or likes to hoard the stickers) There are a couple of licensed inspectors there, I just picked the wrong day to go.
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May 6, 2012 18:16
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May 6, 2012 22:21
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Oil change on the Sporty, which is not particularly interesting, except that I got out of Autozone with 4 quarts of Valvoline, a new drain pan, a funnel sized like it was made for the bike, and some other random crap for under $20. Apparently the Castrol and Valvoline motorcycle oil's on sale for $2.99 right now, which has me thinking about making another run to stock up. Stuff's normally $5 a pop, yo. Oh, and grabbing my Clymer's to check torque specs, I find this. CURSE YOU, CRAYVEX!!!! Have you no sense of decency, sir? 
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May 7, 2012 04:38
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He's one of the best students in shop class, he studies that manual with such concentration!
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May 7, 2012 07:03
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Marv Hushman posted:Oil change on the Sporty, which is not particularly interesting, except that I got out of Autozone with 4 quarts of Valvoline, a new drain pan, a funnel sized like it was made for the bike, and some other random crap for under $20. Apparently the Castrol and Valvoline motorcycle oil's on sale for $2.99 right now, which has me thinking about making another run to stock up. Stuff's normally $5 a pop, yo. Muwhahaha, whenever Sporty owners check their manuals, it won't be maintenance information that they see. No, it will be my masked face!!
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May 7, 2012 18:32
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Each enduro got its turn on the lift, and the Magna got some attention. Changed the gearbox oil on the DT with some Castrol 10w40 JASO stuff. It was $2 off each quart at Autozone. Got 3 quarts for under $10, nice. The color coming out amazed the wife, all milky; totally unlike used crankcase oil. Also gave it a chain lube and a front brake adjustment. Last time I went out, both adjusters rattled loose, so I can't adjust the chain until I get a chance to hit the Fastenal for replacements.  Drained the XL's crankcase oil. Discovered a PO lost the spring that holds the oil filter screen up in the right spot, so I am going to hit the Honda dealer today and see if they have one in stock (fat chance). I think I might need to dial in the throttle stop and air screw a bit on this one. Chain got lubed, didn't need to be adjusted. Front brakes got adjusted. Haven't had trouble with the clutch since I doused the engagement mechanism and lubed the cable with a liberal application of white lithium grease. This is a good thing.  The old '84 VF500 got some love, too. Put on new carb boots and reconnected the throttle and choke cables. Tried to get them seated, but gave up after about 2 hours of attempts. Tested the battery, still good, lots of charge. I suppose it was a good choice to disconnect the battery when we stopped running it.
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May 7, 2012 18:54
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Got drunk and made some bad decisions. Everything went better than expected: http://gnarlywrench.blogspot.com/2012/05/shock-disassembly.html 
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May 7, 2012 21:52
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Got drunk and made some bad decisions. This is awesome!
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May 7, 2012 22:28
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Installed a Yoshi TRS slip-on onto my GS500. Stupid gasket stuff they recommend takes a whole DAY to cure. I just want to try it outttttt.  Pics (please ignore the messy garage) Before:  After: 
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May 7, 2012 23:12
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Sharp_angus posted:Installed a Yoshi TRS slip-on onto my GS500. Stupid gasket stuff they recommend takes a whole DAY to cure. I just want to try it outttttt. Looks nice, do you need to rejet for that can?
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May 7, 2012 23:37
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echomadman posted:Looks nice, do you need to rejet for that can? I probably will. I have seen guys run this bike without rejetting on this particular can (which is what I will try first) but I guess like anything, it'll just come down to how it runs when I fire it up the first time. Sharp_angus fucked around with this message at 00:14 on May 8, 2012 |
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May 7, 2012 23:50
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Oil change. Should have done it this weekend, but all the autozones were out of Rotella T 10W-30, and Pep Boys and NAPA want $27 and $31/gal respectively. WTF. I noticed some tiny metal filings on the oil drain plug. Normal, or is this thing about to detonate?
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May 8, 2012 01:46
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Got drunk and made some bad decisions. I fear automotive/motorcycle springs popping off their compressors more than anything in the garage, yet for some reason this seems safe and well thought out. Or maybe I need to quit drinking while working on cars.
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May 8, 2012 01:50
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Oil change. Should have done it this weekend, but all the autozones were out of Rotella T 10W-30, and Pep Boys and NAPA want $27 and $31/gal respectively. WTF Pretty normal. A lot of drain bolts are magnetic so the shavings stick to it and stay out of the motor.
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May 8, 2012 02:41
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Just did some cosmetic (the windshield) stuff. Really need to order a cowl from somewhere, then I'll be really happy. Before:  After:  And it needs a wash. 
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May 8, 2012 03:50
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I installed a fuel filter on my new 2004 Honda Rebel. I say new because I bought it with 295 miles on it. It's the biggest thing I've ever done to a motor vehicle of any kind. I am lame.  Crappy cameraphone pic with iffy lighting ahoy!  Edit: Next thing: installing a magnetic drain plug once it comes time to change the oil again. Woo. FIDEL CASHFLOW fucked around with this message at 07:37 on May 8, 2012 |
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May 8, 2012 07:29
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From 2 pages ago, but whatever...Fixed Gear Guy posted:
My general rule of thumb for carbon fiber - Alright for high end stuff, but not so good otherwise. What I did to my bike: Changed the brake fluid.   Reasons for not owning a Mityvac brake bleeder: 1. You are not mechanically inclined and let a shop do all your maintenance. 2. You are stupid.
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May 8, 2012 10:05
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Mcqueen posted:I fear automotive/motorcycle springs popping off their compressors more than anything in the garage, yet for some reason this seems safe and well thought out. Or maybe I need to quit drinking while working on cars. Those are 50lb cable ties and there's at least 8 of them on each spring. It's about 400lbs of holding force so that's at least twice what is required.
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May 8, 2012 15:27
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Detroit117 posted:From 2 pages ago, but whatever... I looked this up. And it appears that not everyone agrees. http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MITMV8020-MIT6820-Brake-Bleeding/dp/B000FUMWTM
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May 8, 2012 16:08
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Ziploc posted:I looked this up. And it appears that not everyone agrees. http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MITMV8020-MIT6820-Brake-Bleeding/dp/B000FUMWTM I don't have a MightyVac, but once I swapped my stock bleeders for speed bleeders, changing brake fluid is easy. http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=4596 If you have leaks in your lines or a clogged MC reservoir, bleeding brakes will suck rear end with any tool.
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May 8, 2012 16:21
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