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Had to drive it today (no bus service on sundays). It's fine in 1st through 3rd, just noisy. 4th sometimes works, 5th isn't really usable, but I didn't have to get over 35 anyway. But on my way back... the check engine light that's been on since December turned off on its own. I checked the ECU with Torque, and for the first time this year, all the readiness monitors show complete (EGR and EVAP had been showing not ready).  Only active code is the knock sensor (been there since I bought the car). No pending codes. It previously had an EVAP solenoid code and an EGR low/no flow code in addition to the knock sensor code. I guess when it got smacked in the parking lot, whatever was loose... got unloose? 
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May 7, 2012 02:31
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| # ? May 26, 2024 01:32 |
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 This week I got these new Tenzo-R Concept 10 wheels, installed a rather large top mounted intercooler and replaced my plastic by-pass valve with a metal one from COBB. Hopefully getting tuned soon, maybe I'll hit 300 wheel horse power on this tiny zoom zoom mazdaspeed 3.
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May 7, 2012 03:19
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I thought that was a WRX at first, but then I realized the hood scoop wasn't where it normally is...
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May 7, 2012 03:53
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Black Is Black posted:
I never realized how similar the side profile of those are to current gen WRX wagons.
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May 7, 2012 03:56
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opengl128 posted:Sucks. I bet the tow hitch did some damage though. She was hit by an '08 Pilot, and from the pic my wife took it looked as though its entire lower bumper was pushed in (suspecting the hitch as the culprit there.) I don't think any of the parts are Turbo S-specific, but nevertheless at a minimum it needs the lower fascia replaced, a new bumper cover painted to match, probably the core behind the bumper, and scratches on the rear hatch repaired. I doubt this comes cheaply. Both parties have Progressive insurance... An interesting wrinkle I am suspect of. I am hoping this won't turn into an issue where Progressive tries to minimize the damage. On the subject of OEM parts - I don't know if your state laws are different, but I have the option of taking the car anywhere I please to be repaired and its the shop with my input that will determine which parts are used in the repair. The damage will come nowhere near to totaling the car so the insurance company has very little to say about this other than negotiating with the shop.
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May 7, 2012 04:44
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Got the brakes working, so I could actually move it a small bit! (I set up chocks just in case the brakes didn't work, which is why it looks all jerky.) Maybe tomorrow I will get to actually drive it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTfBpI4d69w
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May 7, 2012 10:17
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some texas redneck posted:But on my way back... the check engine light that's been on since December turned off on its own. Some of the monitors don't run very often. The EVAP Large Leak test only runs probably 6 times a year. M4rg4r1ne posted:
Just don't get 'em mixed up! 
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May 7, 2012 14:40
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Splizwarf posted:Some of the monitors don't run very often. The EVAP Large Leak test only runs probably 6 times a year. It's never had an EVAP leak code, except when I purposefully left the gas cap off while trying to figure out if a leak was related to the code I had. The code was for "evap vacuum cut valve bypass valve", which is some magic pixie dust part only Nissan uses. FSM says to replace the hoses to that valve (which I've done), check to make sure the valve works properly (it does), and if all else fails, replace the evap pressure sensor. I never got to that step, though the sensor (and most of the evap lines) were soaked in gas. I guess the previous owned liked to top it off. Leaving the gas cap off pretty much immediately gave a large leak code. Manually resetting the ECU would give the "evap vacuum cut valve bypass valve" and EGR codes within 10 minutes of getting on the highway. The EGR code was P0400 - low/no EGR flow. Lifting the EGR valve by hand made it stall immediately, putting vacuum on it made it stumble badly, so I figured either a bad vacuum solenoid or bad egr temp sensor. Neither EGR nor evap would ever show ready with these codes. I gave up at that point. It started throwing both codes at the exact same time (about 2 weeks after I smogged it). Doesn't need to be smogged again until November, I'll deal with it at that point if I need to.  The only thing I can come up with is maybe the wiring for both systems is in the same harness or they use the same ground, and when it got sideswiped last week some flaky connection became less flaky. Nissan isn't exactly known for quality wiring... Admittedly, it's only seen about 200 miles in the past month and a half thanks to the dying transmission, but I've put about 15 miles on it in the past 24 hours and scanned the ECU multiple times for pending codes - nothing shows pending, only active code is for the broken knock sensor (that code's been there since I bought the car, and won't trip the CEL by itself). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:10 on May 7, 2012 |
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May 7, 2012 23:07
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some texas redneck posted:It's never had an EVAP leak code, except when I purposefully left the gas cap off while trying to figure out if a leak was related to the code I had. The code was for "evap vacuum cut valve bypass valve", which is some magic pixie dust part only Nissan uses. FSM says to replace the hoses to that valve (which I've done), check to make sure the valve works properly (it does), and if all else fails, replace the evap pressure sensor. I never got to that step, though the sensor (and most of the evap lines) were soaked in gas. I guess the previous owned liked to top it off. Giving up is a pertinent strategy. The Fairlane reads back a few codes (from it's non ODB proprietary port which I managed to dig up one document on how to read) and every one of them has lead to a "gently caress it" situation. One of them was the EGR sensor was bad. Okay, it's a unit, let's ask how much an EGR valve is. Cheapest I found was $650. gently caress that. There' other fun ones like a failed transmission temp sensor, two extreme lean conditions (Fixed. Small hose with one finger thickness end hidden under the manifold decayed and fell off), and a few others I strategically chose to ignore. Suppose I should check again. A few weeks ago I noticed I left the mini blade connectors on the port which I put there to make it marginally less horrible. Just need to find the other bits I used to make a suspended mess of wires to trigger diagnostic mode.
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May 8, 2012 00:05
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I chucked some new wheels and summer tires on the SE-R, just in time for a surprise blizzard which basically gave way to rain almost immediately. May is weird. I thought you were my friend until I noticed the lack of rust. You swap in a SR20DET too?
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May 8, 2012 00:19
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Super Aggro Crag posted:I thought you were my friend until I noticed the lack of rust. You swap in a SR20DET too? 
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May 8, 2012 00:44
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Bought a rack and slapped it on: The roof system was more than I was willing to drop.
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May 8, 2012 00:53
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BiRD BoY posted:Bought a rack and slapped it on: I don't... what's that attached to? I don't think I've seen a rear one that doesn't bolt to a tow bar.
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May 8, 2012 01:20
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Probably hooked to the top and bottom of the trunk sheet metal. Open trunk slightly to put on or remove.
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May 8, 2012 01:28
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Splizwarf posted:Probably hooked to the top and bottom of the trunk sheet metal. Open trunk slightly to put on or remove. Yes. Mine is the 2 bike version. I wish they had a 1 bike version, for shorter arms. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lKTeZv-q6k Seems fine so far. After my bike ride, I got her all cleaned up and took some iPhone glamor shots.   Also, if I'd posted here last week, I'd have talked about removing the silver inserts from my factory rims, making them all black, because I'm too cheap to buy new ones. BiRD BoY fucked around with this message at 05:01 on May 8, 2012 |
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May 8, 2012 04:49
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BAM! Snow has been gone for three days nows; time to slap summer rubber and rims on.
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May 8, 2012 06:00
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I took the day off of work to fix the stuck lifter on the 840, along with a few "while I was in there" jobs. In anticipation of this project, I took my engine plastics out a while ago and have been cleaning them up and painting them so they don't look like poo poo in my spare time. I also sent a spare set of Ebay valve covers (and fasteners) out to be powdercoated, which came back some time ago and have been waiting patiently for me to install. So all that stuff went in, along with new valve cover gaskets and a set of fresh NGKs. I also replaced a couple broken plastic mounting brackets and some other little odds and ends. It rained on me and my work light burned out and my tools got all wet  but I got it done. It's running great now, without that horrid ticking!  There was one pants making GBS threads moment when I was somewhat expecting. I got it all apart and couldn't immediately tell which lifter was the bad one. So I started pushing on all of the ones that weren't compressed, and I found the bastard that way. The only one in the bunch that was spongy was the one for the left hand intake valve on cyl #7. It came right out with a flexible magnet puller after the cam was removed. I didn't get any pictures of the cams because my hands were coated in grime and I didn't want to ruin my camera. I did get some before / after shots of the engine bay though. The after shot is crappy because it was dark out and raining. I also have some pics of the de-making GBS threads process of the engine plastics, although they're kind of boring. I didn't get to everything I wanted to do - I still have to replace some weeping Pentosin hoses, and do a good cleaning of the engine. I didn't have time tonight to degrease the parts that needed it. Anyway, here's what I started with:  Peeling paint, flaking Cosmoline on the valve covers, grime and poo poo everywhere. Here's how I left it tonight. The plan is to clean up the remaining dirty poo poo when I have more time, but I think it's a good start. Time will tell how well that paint holds up though.  
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May 8, 2012 06:05
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drat that looks nice. Take a pressure washer to the rest and it will look great.
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May 8, 2012 06:25
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Black88GTA posted:Here's how I left it tonight. The plan is to clean up the remaining dirty poo poo when I have more time, but I think it's a good start. Time will tell how well that paint holds up though. that is pure  , I like the red on the top of the oil cap.
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May 8, 2012 07:38
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I finally got my proper spacers in   So stoked. Looks way, way better now 
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May 8, 2012 07:42
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99 Avalon: Bought it a few weeks ago, took it to the garage to get sorted out. I had suspected the struts were shot and I wanted some non-chinese tires on it (Rikon Raptors - speed and class). $1300 later I have rear struts, end links front and back, some sort of body mount bushings in the rear, 4 new tires, an alignment and an oil change. On the plus side it rides great. We're taking it to the beach next month (10-11 hour drive) and this big grandpa wagon will be much more comfy than our civic. '91 Miata: Got the top 95% done. It's in the car, rain rail and everything mounted. I need a few more nuts as I lost them somehow, a bolt for one of the seats, and then I'm going to fabric paint the seats and the rear parcel carpet and then it'll be ready to sell (after an inspection). 
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May 8, 2012 13:22
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Well I didn't do it, the machine shop did, but my D15B2 block is in the boil getting cleaned up. On the one hand that's good news.  On the other hand, its been there for a week and they just now broke it down.  I was kind of hoping to have it back by tomorrow... Sucks to be me!
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May 8, 2012 16:59
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Not sure if it's AI as such but I spent yesterday installing a condenser fan in a fridge. Because it's a 10" fan and the opening was designed for a non existent 9" fan I had to improvise and used a Davies Craig 10" thermo fan housing, modified to take the condenser fan motor. No matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the blades low enough profile to work right so I had to have a bit of an air gap. Should have checked the motor shank design on another thermo fan and on the condenser fan. might have been able to steal the fan from my other spare thermo fan for the fridge. Did that instead of working on the brakes on the VW like I meant to do, but now we have a working hugeass glass front fridge for my efforts.
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May 8, 2012 22:25
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General_Failure posted:
 
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May 8, 2012 22:53
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Hell yeah! Hey there commercial fridge buddy. This is the monster. I have most of the top bit that covers the cooling gear, but it wouldn't fit under the roof if i put it on. I had to put it in the laundry. Too heavy and big to put anywhere else. Thing is the laundry is maybe a meter or so away from the neighbour's place. Wondering if they'll complain about the noise. I'll just say "If I could, I'd put it in the garage but it has no power." Did I mention my neighbour is an electrician? hint. hint.  Davies Craig fan housing for AI-ness. 
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May 8, 2012 23:11
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Chinatown posted:drat that looks nice. You couldn't get me within a mile of a decades old bimmer engine bay with a pressure washer
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May 8, 2012 23:45
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Hell yeah! I don't understand why it isn't filled with 20 types of beer. Also, new project spotted. 
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May 9, 2012 03:06
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Splizwarf posted:I don't understand why it isn't filled with 20 types of beer. Also, new project spotted. now that's a good point. At last I have an excuse. Its in testing right now. i don't trust the accuracy of our old fridge thermometer anymore so I put some drinks in there. If they freeze it's too cold. Besides an empty fridge isn't terribly efficient. Not sure how these things fare in terms of energy efficiency compared to normal consumer fridges. The insulation on most of it is very thick, and the door is double glazed. It's also pretty much airtight. There may be an efficiency hit with the glass, but the door doesn't need to be opened to see the content so there are less losses there through more / extended door openings. Being able to see what's in the fridge without opening it is awesome by the way. Oddly enough according to a manufacturer's site I looked at, from a volumetric point of view commercial fridges are actually cheaper than consumer ones new. Go figure.
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May 9, 2012 03:16
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Rotated the tires on my 6. Still loving my Kobalt cordless impact driver.
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May 9, 2012 03:38
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Freed up a frozen brake adjuster and slapped everything back together. Couldn't be bothered today. Just don't want the imminent rain getting all over the brake assembly. I'll adjust it tomorrow.
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May 9, 2012 05:09
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General_Failure posted:Being able to see what's in the fridge without opening it is awesome by the way. Oddly enough according to a manufacturer's site I looked at, from a volumetric point of view commercial fridges are actually cheaper than consumer ones new. Go figure. Consider putting a lip on the front of each shelf, knocking the front thing off the shelf (to have it explode on the floor) by reaching around it for something else is infuriating.
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May 9, 2012 14:01
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Splizwarf posted:I don't understand why it isn't filled with 20 types of beer. Also, new project spotted. Because beer = money parts also = money guess which is higher on the priority list. Actually I think this was taken shortly after I bought that cb400F you see there (blue bike) so I was super broke. However I believe there was a bottle of rum hiding in that fridge also. New project, at the time yes. Now it runs but it sits until I finish up a couple other bikes and save some money for fiberglass (seatpan), tires, and a chain. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 15:09 on May 9, 2012 |
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May 9, 2012 15:05
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This is why I picked up homebrewing. I'm not even that good at it yet and I'm getting $45/case beer for about $25/case. If you find another one of those fridges, I'm in.
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May 9, 2012 15:10
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Splizwarf posted:This is why I picked up homebrewing. I'm not even that good at it yet and I'm getting $45/case beer for about $25/case. I went all grain and buy it in bulk from a distributor in NY, and I can make a solid American Pale Ale for ~$10 for 5 gallons, just need to reuse the yeast to lower the per batch cost. Much like car hobbies the "hey I can save money!" quickly turns into "Oh god, I have two chest freezers and 30 homebrew kegs". At least when I preemptively replace my water pump and thermostat I'll actually be saving money compared to waiting for it to fail and having it towed to the only BMW dealer in the state.
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May 9, 2012 15:43
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Splizwarf posted:This is why I picked up homebrewing. I'm not even that good at it yet and I'm getting $45/case beer for about $25/case. I have to say you're full of poo poo. Your homebrew was AMAZING. I can't wait to see what you come up with when you get "good." I've been saving you brown bottles btw. On topic, I've finished the painting portion of Joey's K3. Now I have to pick some decals. I already have a few of the Honda Wing logos in reflective white and red vinyl but those alone won't cut it I don't think. I'm currently trying to draw something better: http://gnarlywrench.blogspot.com/2012/05/more-k3-paint-progress.html 
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May 9, 2012 15:48
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Flashed the STi to Cobb Stage 2, and installed a bypass in the aftermarket radio/DVD player so the video works. The e-brake wire was permanently grounded, which in this series of radio doesn't allow it to play video, so I had to put a relay in to bypass that feature. I won't ever watch video while I drive, but it's nice to have it available for being parked somewhere waiting.
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May 9, 2012 18:08
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Hardwired my radar detector. Attempted hardwiring my GPS, but I am thinking I got a bunk cord, because it didn't work. Imperador do Brasil posted:Flashed the STi to Cobb Stage 2, and installed a bypass in the aftermarket radio/DVD player so the video works. The e-brake wire was permanently grounded, which in this series of radio doesn't allow it to play video, so I had to put a relay in to bypass that feature. I won't ever watch video while I drive, but it's nice to have it available for being parked somewhere waiting. I went through 4 bypasses that kept blowing for some reason (ebay bought bypasses) so I just ended up toggle switching it and hiding the toggle in the center console compartment
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May 9, 2012 18:21
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JackRabbitStorm posted:I went through 4 bypasses that kept blowing for some reason (ebay bought bypasses) so I just ended up toggle switching it and hiding the toggle in the center console compartment I didn't buy a "micro bypass" type thing, I just bought a 5-pin relay and wired it in. I had plenty of space behind the radio, and it was way cheaper.
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May 9, 2012 21:46
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I went ahead and finished adjusting the back brakes and the adjuster un-seizing it entails. From the previous poor adjustment one of the shoes has thin brake material near one end. Readjusting should have shifted the main wear point and buy some time because the rest of the friction material was still very meaty. Hopefully I'll do the hand brake today. I'd like to do a proper brake fluid flush too because the back is on stands and the back brakes are a royal pain to reach properly without ripping chunks of flesh off. I also did a fake test fit of the 3 point harness. Ie stuffed the bottom points down the seat crack and threw the top point over the back.
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May 9, 2012 22:20
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| # ? May 26, 2024 01:32 |
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I started what was intended to be a couple days of intensive detailing. I clayed the hood and fenders, de-swirled and polished the hood, and then waxed the finished parts. It looked glorious. So shiny, so clear, so perfect. And then a random storm front moved in out of the blue and started dumping. The wax is offering a valiant effort, but it needed a good 12 hours to fully set up and it definitely didn't get that. So much for this morning's work. On the bright side, I ordered a bunch of sale items from Chemical Guys last night, so I'll get a chance to try them out sooner than I thought.
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May 10, 2012 02:18
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