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So I'm an idiot and put this in the main 40k thread instead of here, so I figured I'll crosspost it. Doing this dreadnought for the oath thread and I'm trying some weathering powders out for the first time. I've got a limited range but I'm trying them out with this guy as I want some rusted areas and wanted some opinions on how it looks or tips on how to improve it. 
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May 9, 2012 01:24
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Fuegan posted:So I'm an idiot and put this in the main 40k thread instead of here, so I figured I'll crosspost it. Doing this dreadnought for the oath thread and I'm trying some weathering powders out for the first time. I've got a limited range but I'm trying them out with this guy as I want some rusted areas and wanted some opinions on how it looks or tips on how to improve it. You can rub or clump the powder straight onto the parts you want weathered then carefully use mineral spirit to adhere it. You will want to hit it with some matte varnish after that to fix it into place further. Thin the powder in mineral spirit and dab it on the model for a splotchy look. This effect is enhanced if you airbrush more spirit onto that, which will give it a random weathered look across a wide area. You can also mix it with oil paint and then thin it (mineral spirits again) to have it flow nicely around details like rivets. Don't experiment with these on your pretty Comtemptor. Find another test subject so you know what you're getting into.
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May 9, 2012 01:58
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Another tip I learned about powders: if you mix them with a wash then you don't need to use spirits.
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May 9, 2012 02:28
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Got some work done on my Valhallan command staff:  Company commander:   Platoon commander:   Badass Guardsman:  Flamer:  Other Guardsmen: 
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May 9, 2012 02:35
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 Summoner at Anarchy-Con last weekend.
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May 9, 2012 03:22
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InternetJunky posted:I've always been curious why no one uses oil paints with minis. I've done a few oil washes now with great results, but I was wondering about doing the whole mini so I picked up a starter pack of oil colours today and am going to give it a try. Has anyone else tried this? likely because oils take a very long time to dry, days for touchdry and weeks to months to properly cured ready for sealing. youd be doing thinner applications on miniatures but it's still not really practical unless youre doing washes or lots of blending because your colours are just going to seep together unless you leave it days between layers
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May 9, 2012 03:32
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Yog-Sothoth posted:likely because oils take a very long time to dry, days for touchdry and weeks to months to properly cured ready for sealing. youd be doing thinner applications on miniatures but it's still not really practical unless youre doing washes or lots of blending because your colours are just going to seep together unless you leave it days between layers That said, some model painters do use oils, just generally not gaming painters like everyone in this thread. Scale military modelers or people who paint model horses or busts or whatever will often use oils for especially blendy areas like faces or subtle flesh tones. Even then it's usually oil details over an acrylic or sometimes enamel base. But if you are a gamer who gets into painting there's like a 99% chance you got there through GW products and paints. The drying time and the need for non-water solvents are big turnoffs for most people. But they do make water-soluble oils now, and you can get fast dry mediums and whatnot so maybe that would be viable.
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May 9, 2012 03:49
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Dominion posted:That said, some model painters do use oils, just generally not gaming painters like everyone in this thread. Scale military modelers or people who paint model horses or busts or whatever will often use oils for especially blendy areas like faces or subtle flesh tones. Even then it's usually oil details over an acrylic or sometimes enamel base. But if you are a gamer who gets into painting there's like a 99% chance you got there through GW products and paints. The problem with this thread is that it is 99% games workshop. Other games and modellers are very under represented and get limited feedback
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May 9, 2012 05:38
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I'm thinning some paint now - using a coffee filter to keep all the chunks out and I'm using a flow aid/drying retarder. The airbrush is clean, freshly assembled. It's an Iwata HP-CS. I'm going to try playing around with the pressure and I'm keeping some Q-tips handy to clear the nozzle when it starts to build up. Wish me luck fellow airbrush goons. For if this does not work, I am truly lost. e: In regards to GW domination, given the sheer volume of the models required to play even a small game - you won't see as many one off model painters posting their progress and tips. That said I would very much like to hear more from them - I want to try as many techniques as I can get my hands on. Bavius fucked around with this message at 06:10 on May 9, 2012 |
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May 9, 2012 05:43
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BULBASAUR posted:Another tip I learned about powders: if you mix them with a wash then you don't need to use spirits. Matte medium/water/flow-aid would also work if I'm to understand the mechanics behind it. Kommando posted:The problem with this thread is that it is 99% games workshop. Other games and modellers are very under represented and get limited feedback They are under represented because most of us honestly have no idea how to give constructive feedback to these talented folks, and so they tend to frequent places that can. This is a sad truth that I'd love to see changed; as represented by the company, the 40k painting/hobby scene is years behind what other scale modelers/artists have been doing for a long while now. Leaps and bounds have been made in the past few years to close that gap (and to make more money in the process) but there is a freaking lot that we, as hobbyists, could learn. Want to make a sweet gaming table? Talk to a model train enthusiast. Want to do awesome weathering on a tank? Your WWII scale modelers will have the answers. Want to make your model look like a work of art? I bet our traditional medium pals know all the tricks of the trade for oil blending. Les from Awesomepaintjob put it best when he was talking about airbrushes, and how they are largely absent from the 40k community whereas they are nearly universal in the scale modeling industry. As this thread has learned, airbrushes are loving awesome and if you can afford it, deserves to be part of your toolbox. We learned by people saying "hey, these guys are doing it and it's awesome!" I can only imagine what other secrets and awesome things await us in the minds of hobbyists. tl;dr: drat you, model train enthusiasts! What else have you been hiding from us!? 
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May 9, 2012 06:29
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Sole.Sushi posted:Matte medium/water/flow-aid would also work if I'm to understand the mechanics behind it. Avoid water or anything with a lot of it as it will get rid of most of the pigment. It also doesn't seal it, which means it will rub off over time. I don't really know of a good solution for sealing it while preserving color tbqh. Any tips? Naramyth posted:Alternately you can get a pretty nice metallic color effect by starting with a metal base and applying washes until you are happy with how "new" you want the metal to look. I did that with my purple marines(bolt gun+one heavy layer of a purple wash) That looks pretty cool. I think I'll try a combination of both- base color with metal medium, washes, and then some highlights with the metal medium again. Cheers for the advice. BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 08:49 on May 9, 2012 |
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May 9, 2012 08:39
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So I guess I prefer layering.
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Red Shoe posted:Awesome advice. Cheers for the feedback. Looking at the model this morning, I quite like the rust I managed on the metallic bits but not so much on the armour. I'll have a crack at fixing it up tonight.
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May 9, 2012 10:01
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Faced my fear of manufactured objects- a pair of binoculars. I failed terribly. Everything needs an armature strong enough to push against or there's simply no way to work. I wound up gluing the piece to a bit of cardboard but the scale of it was so out of whack that I decided to try again. This time I'll work front to back. 1:64 armature-  1:100 armature(now obsolete)  The failure:  Binoculars v.2 armature:  And also added some mass (needs a bit more I think):    
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May 9, 2012 13:33
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Hellbeard posted:Faced my fear of manufactured objects- a pair of binoculars. I failed terribly. Everything needs an armature strong enough to push against or there's simply no way to work. I wound up gluing the piece to a bit of cardboard but the scale of it was so out of whack that I decided to try again. This time I'll work front to back.
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May 9, 2012 14:04
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Bavius posted:I'm thinning some paint now - using a coffee filter to keep all the chunks out and I'm using a flow aid/drying retarder. The airbrush is clean, freshly assembled. It's an Iwata HP-CS. I'm going to try playing around with the pressure and I'm keeping some Q-tips handy to clear the nozzle when it starts to build up. Good luck! Let us know how the coffee filter works out, I hadn't considered that as a way to try and keep the chunks out of my airbrush when using (sometimes reconstituted) GW pots. I've mainly been airbrushing with Reaper paints but did an entire Land Raider and Drop Pod late last week for my oath. Doing 'advanced' techniques like using airbrushes, weathering pigments and oil paints wasn't something I got into until I bought Forgeworlds first Modelling Masterclass book and attended a weathering seminar at a hobby store. Part of it is just trying the poo poo out and seeing how it performs. though there's some good guides out there. Ultrawerke's defunct blog has lots of tips on weathering, rust and oil paints: http://ultrawerke.blogspot.com/
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May 9, 2012 14:05
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Hellbeard posted:Faced my fear of manufactured objects- a pair of binoculars. I failed terribly. Everything needs an armature strong enough to push against or there's simply no way to work. I wound up gluing the piece to a bit of cardboard but the scale of it was so out of whack that I decided to try again. This time I'll work front to back. Why don't you get some thin plastic tubing and make it from that? It's way easier to just glue some tubes together and then model on top of that. They come in sizes that fit each other, so they are perfect for that kind of thing. Also guns, spears and whatnot. And yeah, use brown stuff, or even better procreate for the hard edge stuff, it's way better than greenstuff for that.
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May 9, 2012 14:06
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Sole.Sushi posted:Leaps and bounds have been made in the past few years to close that gap (and to make more money in the process) but there is a freaking lot that we, as hobbyists, could learn. I'm really interested to see if oil can be painted on thin enough that brush marks and paint texture aren't visible, yet not so thin that it runs everywhere like a wash. I saw some miniature horse painter article where they were painting completely life-like horses uses nothing but dry pigments. If my experiment with oils doesn't go well I think I'm going to try mimicking the miniature horse painting method next.
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May 9, 2012 14:21
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InternetJunky posted:I've always been curious why no one uses oil paints with minis. I've done a few oil washes now with great results, but I was wondering about doing the whole mini so I picked up a starter pack of oil colours today and am going to give it a try. Has anyone else tried this? Here's two tutorials for you from MassiveVoodoo (if you haven't checked them out before, do so asap!) Tutorial 1 Tutorial 2 Now I have received my primer by Vallejo, I will be giving it a go myself. First up I think I might paint my Corpse Cart...
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May 9, 2012 14:23
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InternetJunky posted:I agree completely, and this is why I wanted to try oils. I know that a lot of the historical guys who make those jaw-dropping displays of 50mm - 1/6 scale kits use oils, but it has always been "oils take too long to dry" when you bring them up in the mini community. Obviously you aren't going to paint armies with oils, but I'm not really an army painter and mostly just paint for display. Using dry pigments for stuff other than tank weathering is something Les from Awesomepaintjob did in a recent video and it completely blew my mind. I immediately tried it and it works great. Not for a whole mini but for deep shadows, it's fantastic.
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May 9, 2012 15:12
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InternetJunky posted:I agree completely, and this is why I wanted to try oils. I think John Blanch painted some miniatures with oil, back in WD104 or something. They looked really weird (but that may not have been the oil...) This forum actually seems to be very quick to adapt new techniques, which is great! I learned about pigments and a lot of other stuff here, so just saying that other forums deal with those techniques and leave it at that is a bad idea IMO  Maybe we should have some kind of wiki, with all the different techniques? I'm going through some of miniature mentors' tutorial movies these days, and they do a lot of things I never heard about. Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 15:59 on May 9, 2012 |
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May 9, 2012 15:56
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Dominion posted:Using dry pigments for stuff other than tank weathering is something Les from Awesomepaintjob did in a recent video and it completely blew my mind. I immediately tried it and it works great. Not for a whole mini but for deep shadows, it's fantastic.
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May 9, 2012 16:09
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BlackIronHeart posted:Good luck! Let us know how the coffee filter works out, I hadn't considered that as a way to try and keep the chunks out of my airbrush when using (sometimes reconstituted) GW pots. I've mainly been airbrushing with Reaper paints but did an entire Land Raider and Drop Pod late last week for my oath. The coffee filter worked pretty well, but I thinned the paint too much. So rather then getting a single coat down with one pass I would dust the model a couple times to build up a base. It works, but takes awhile. If I was mixing in other colors I could see the advantage but I'm just shooting for a basecoat. I was surprised how chunky a new pot was too, about 10%. Maybe a fluke, but it would explain the quick clogging I was getting.
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May 9, 2012 16:13
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HardCoil posted:I think John Blanch painted some miniatures with oil, back in WD104 or something. They looked really weird (but that may not have been the oil...) A goon painting wiki would be pretty awesome. Pic galleries, tutorials, product reviews, etc.
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May 9, 2012 16:15
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Vallejo prices increasing: http://www.maelstromgames.co.uk/index.php?act=new&ref=240
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May 9, 2012 16:53
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InternetJunky posted:You should check out this link http://chestofcolors.com/how-to-paint-with-dry-pigments/. Thank you so much for this! So informative and I can't wait to give that style a go. The colour depth, contrast and look is absolutely brilliant, and I want to see how it looks on smaller miniatures. Also, I need some colour shapers, but I can't find any for a decent price anywhere.
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May 9, 2012 17:36
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The Dark Project posted:Thank you so much for this! So informative and I can't wait to give that style a go. The colour depth, contrast and look is absolutely brilliant, and I want to see how it looks on smaller miniatures.
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May 9, 2012 17:42
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Sole.Sushi posted:This is a sad truth that I'd love to see changed; as represented by the company, the 40k painting/hobby scene is years behind what other scale modelers/artists have been doing for a long while now. The Forgeworld brand is where the "advanced" techniques are sitting in the GW empire, and the acceptance of using non-GW painting/modelling products is there as well. Edit: What are some good alternative schemes for Necrons other than the ones GW push? I like the look of some of the new models, but the official paint schemes are a bit blah. I am tempted by Necrons that are just incredibly rusted and looking really decrepit, as if they just crawled out of a scrapheap, with a few patches of bare metal, but mostly rust and corrosion.. Danger - Octopus! fucked around with this message at 18:17 on May 9, 2012 |
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May 9, 2012 18:13
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Is it true that you can paint without thinning the new paints? Since that would make me want to paint a lot more, knowing that I don't have to fiddle with mixing in water all the time.
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May 9, 2012 19:30
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Torabi posted:Is it true that you can paint without thinning the new paints? Since that would make me want to paint a lot more, knowing that I don't have to fiddle with mixing in water all the time. Maybe I'm just terrible (I am) but with the exception of the metallic layers, I've had to thin the new ones slightly to have them go on flat and prevent brush strokes from showing. They definitely need less thinning than they used to, though.
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May 9, 2012 19:45
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Vallejos seem to paint well enough without thinning.
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May 9, 2012 19:51
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Torabi posted:Is it true that you can paint without thinning the new paints? Since that would make me want to paint a lot more, knowing that I don't have to fiddle with mixing in water all the time. Doesn't that just mean the paint is more expensive? And you would rather pay more than mix in a little water?
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May 9, 2012 19:56
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Danger - Octopus! posted:The Forgeworld brand is where the "advanced" techniques are sitting in the GW empire, and the acceptance of using non-GW painting/modelling products is there as well. Ceramic Necrons are popular.  Or you could try Swamp Necrons.  http://www.legionsgames.com/mastergallery/necron_terror.htm Or possibly this. 
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May 9, 2012 20:02
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InternetJunky posted:Colour shapers I got from dickblick.com (miniature shapers). If you do any sort of green stuff sculpting at all these shapers are a dream come true as well for smoothing the putty. Next time I order from them, I will have to get some. Will most likely do it for some pigments and pastels as well. I'm always looking to try new things for art and miniatures. It sucks how much shipping is, so I usually wait till I have enough cash for a big order. Last one I ordered was for a hell of a lot of W&N mixable oils, so I will soon be giving them a try to see how they pan out. Love that chest of colours site. So much cool information there. Edit: Holy jesus that's pink.
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May 9, 2012 20:02
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That's a pretty lazy command barge right there.
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May 9, 2012 20:03
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InternetJunky posted:I've always been curious why no one uses oil paints with minis. I'd guess because they would take forever to dry. EDIT: we'll that'll teach me to read to the end of a thread before replying. Lincoln fucked around with this message at 20:09 on May 9, 2012 |
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May 9, 2012 20:04
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And you clean your brushes with solvents. And turpentine is terrible to breathe. And the differences arent noticeable on 28mm models unless youre some sort of CMON top 10 award winner spending 40 hours blending per model. Oils have their place on larger scale stuff, but imo its a waste on 28mm scale type models.
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May 9, 2012 20:08
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PaintVagrant posted:And you clean your brushes with solvents. And turpentine is terrible to breathe. And the differences arent noticeable on 28mm models unless youre some sort of CMON top 10 award winner spending 40 hours blending per model. I would agree with this except for washes. OIL WASHES are amazing and I will stab anyone who disagrees! 
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May 9, 2012 20:15
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pw pw pw posted:That's a pretty lazy command barge right there. The Lord needs some room to advertise.  "~*Hello, boys*~"
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May 9, 2012 20:17
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dexefiend posted:I would agree with this except for washes. I think it's time for a dexefiend oil wash megapost. If these water mixable ones work as well then that's a huge deal since the whole bleh about solvents would go away.
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May 9, 2012 20:18
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Dexefiend we're troll bros and all but I don't really see any serious advantage to oil washes that I couldn't get from just using a badab black or nuln oil or whatever.
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May 9, 2012 20:23
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