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In my experience, if you're looking to race it's not worth going with a Slash. They can be made to handle well but you're going to dump a ton of cash into it to get it there. My first real r/c car was a Slash VXL and it was indeed a beast - fun to beat around but I just couldn't get it around the track as well as the sc10s I'd had the chance to play with. Another thing to consider is if you're running stock SCT you're immediately going to have to dump another 100 bucks into a good 17.5 motor. IMO it's better to go with a kit and put quality electronics in it from the get go. Of the current 2wd SCTs I'd say the SC10 has the best performance/cost ratio. BUT! if you're looking to tinker, RCRD has a SCT conversion kit for a TLR 22T. I may give that a shot down the road... 
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May 9, 2012 14:37
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needknees posted:In my experience, if you're looking to race it's not worth going with a Slash. They can be made to handle well but you're going to dump a ton of cash into it to get it there. My first real r/c car was a Slash VXL and it was indeed a beast - fun to beat around but I just couldn't get it around the track as well as the sc10s I'd had the chance to play with. Yeah, I came to the realization last night that I just need to buy another SC10. I bought a first generation kit the day they were released and raced with a Novak 17.5 system. I shouldn't have sold the drat thing. How is the losi SC truck (the 2wd)? Edit- wow doing some reading on the Losi XXX-SCT....I think I may have to just jump on it for only $200 rtr w/ a 2.4 system. That 2.4 receiver is compatible with my Spektrum radio so it's a slam dunk. Double Edit - Holy poo poo that Losi XXX-SCB (Short Course Buggy) is loving awesome! I'm just concerned I couldn't race it in any type of class yet. ColonelJohnMatrix fucked around with this message at 17:55 on May 9, 2012 |
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May 9, 2012 17:14
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Yeah, I came to the realization last night that I just need to buy another SC10. I bought a first generation kit the day they were released and raced with a Novak 17.5 system. I shouldn't have sold the drat thing. The XXX-SCT isn't a bad truck but it's got some design issues. Doesn't seem to hold up quite as well as the SC10. If you have good parts support locally it wouldn't be a deal breaker though. The RTR XXX-SCT truck comes with a brushed mod motor, so you'd still have to dump $ into a esc/motor if you want to run stock. The rx is spektrum compatible so that's a bonus. As for electronics, I'm very partial to Viper speed controllers. They've been very solid in every application I've had them in. Their current 17.5 isn't quite up to par with other stuff on the market though. Not bad, just not quite as zippy as some other stuff. Trinity's D3 is a torquey sonofabitch for a 17.5 and great for SCT. The Revtech is extremely quick if you have a big track and can take advantage of its extra mechanical timing (and your track runs no esc timing for stock class...). The Reedy Sonic is another good choice, as is Tekin (especially with a high torque rotor). Servo? Savox 1258. Nothing comes close to that performance for that kind of money. Depending on what esc you go with you may need to throw a capacitor on your receiver to prevent brownouts.
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May 9, 2012 17:54
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Yeah, I came to the realization last night that I just need to buy another SC10. I bought a first generation kit the day they were released and raced with a Novak 17.5 system. I shouldn't have sold the drat thing. I have both and have raced the SCT a bit. It's a damned good truck for the money, and doesn't take a whole lot to really beef up. The best upgrade for it is the EA3 front suspension arms, which really stiffen up the front and makes it steer like it's on rails. The downer is that they're super brittle and *will* break, so keep a couple of sets in your pit box. I raced my SCB in our Open SCT class a bit and it did pretty well against the older 4WDs (Traxxas, SC10) with the HPI Flux 5700kv setup I have in it. The SCB handles way, way better than the SCT and is a lot more fun to drive. As far as 2WD SCT goes, though, it seems like the SC10 is just hard to beat with the stock electronics. That extra 800kv over something like a Tekin 17.5 is hard to catch up with, even with gobs and gobs of timing and boost. Because of this, I personally think the stock SCT class should be 13.5 instead of 17.5, but whatever. On the plus side, the new Blitz ESE comes with a 4800kv, which is technically legal since we allow the SC10 FT trucks in the 2WD class. In my opinion the Blitz is a better all-around truck than the XXX-SCT, and once you get the hang of tuning it, performs as well or better.
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May 9, 2012 18:41
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Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll check out the blitz....I had totally forgotten about that. I got out of the hobby right as blitz trucks started hitting the track. Man....that Losi buggy is definitely tits. I may just have to get it even if I have to race with 4wd SC trucks.
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May 9, 2012 19:28
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Couldn't buy kuff's platinum Slash so I just ordered a brand new Slash 4x4 VXL, should get it in a few days and it should be fun for loving around at the beach. Also that way if my wife like it I'll buy the slash knock off from hobby king and put the VXL stuff in it and upgrade mine with turnigy stuff. Also ordered the iPhone dock thing for the TQi TX because it seems like an useful gimmick will report about it's usefulness. Have not ordered Lipo's tho because I wanted your recommendations on chargers before ordering, I'm looking at this one http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/%5F%5F17508%5F%5FJust%5FAnother%5FCharger%5F80W%5F6A%5F2%5F6S%5FBalance%5FCharger%5Fw%5FPSU.html because I can use it at home or directly on a battery but I don't know anything about the specs any advice ?
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May 9, 2012 20:46
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Ok, I think I need to act on this.... RPP Hobby has the pre-assembled XXX-SCT roller on sale for 129.99! http://www.rpphobby.com/Losi_XXX_SCT_2WD_Rolling_Chassis_p/losb0113.htm That's a hell of a deal, yes?!
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May 9, 2012 22:21
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Ok, I think I need to act on this.... RPP Hobby has the pre-assembled XXX-SCT roller on sale for 129.99! I don't know, from the research I've done for my purchase you need 200$ worth of electronics to complete and you still need radio. Here's the list I had for the slash : Turnigy TrackStar 120A Short Course ESC + Prog card 70$ Turnigy TrackStar 6.5T Sensored Brushless Motor 5150KV 40$ Turnigy 5000mAh 4S 25C Lipo Pack (DE Warehouse) 46$ x2 Take into account that it doesn't include shipping, the charger and radio. Also I wouldn't buy a 2wd truck for bashing around because with lipo's and brushless it will be a pain to put the power down and you'd end power sliding into the nearest obstacle way too often.
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May 9, 2012 23:06
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Sh4 posted:Couldn't buy kuff's platinum Slash so I just ordered a brand new Slash 4x4 VXL, should get it in a few days and it should be fun for loving around at the beach. I have an identical charger to that and its fine. mine is the Imax one (bought it from hobby king)
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May 10, 2012 00:20
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This is a bit off topic from the crawler discussion in here but an e-friend of mine has a kickstarter going for some really cool looking steelie type RC wheels for on-road cars. This includes vinyl decals for white walled tires, etc... Back it if you like it: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/507725522/r-c-car-wheels-1-10-scale-steelies?ref=users
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May 10, 2012 01:47
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Got a call from the retailer, he said he replaced the radio with the old traxxas one because there's supposedly a recall on the TQi transmitters, hope it's not bullshit because I can't find any mention of a recall online and I see a shitload of TQi radios on ebay taken straight out of the box of RTR kits. Any one got any infos about that ?
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May 10, 2012 08:56
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Making some progress on the gas car... Hope to have twin 8.2s by this weekend  
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May 10, 2012 22:36
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Welp....I just listed my SCX10 w/ all my bodies & radio for $500 on several forums. That will give me the budget to get a SCT and deck it out with new radio & electronics. loving racing....I try to quit but the urge keeps coming back. 
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May 10, 2012 22:54
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Any interest in parting out your RC4WD wheels?
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May 10, 2012 23:02
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I think crack would be cheaper than an r/c racing addiction 
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May 10, 2012 23:08
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Is there any reason to not buy a Tamiya M-chassis car? I'm looking at the M05 specifically: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXYEH2&P=FR My only experience so far has been with Traxxas Slashes and I'm looking for an entry level indoor car that is a kit that I can put together. I'm guessing a TT-01 would be the better starter car, but I really like that Abarth and the price is right. Plus my LHS has a class for it: http://www.rlhobbies.com/rules.html Any other suggestions? I'm not dead set on Tamiya.
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May 11, 2012 00:51
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Aceshighxxx posted:Is there any reason to not buy a Tamiya M-chassis car? I'm looking at the M05 specifically: I have a M03, earlier model. The M series chassis, once you are using a Lipo battery, are almost maintenance free and nearly impossible to break (c-hubs in the front suspension are the weak point). The M05 has a lower centre of gravity, so won't traction roll when you go through corners too fast, unlike with the M03. This site has great info on most M Chassis: http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/index.php
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May 11, 2012 02:07
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powderific posted:Any interest in parting out your RC4WD wheels? Sorry man, they are the only set i have for it.
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May 11, 2012 02:11
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needknees posted:I think crack would be cheaper than an r/c racing addiction No poo poo, I just dropped about $700 today on a Hot Bodies Ve8, Tekin T8 1900KV, and a couple of batteries. Electric buggy is blowing up around here and I want in.
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May 11, 2012 03:52
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I think ive made my decision on my sct purchase: a Blitz ESE! Not sure if im going to het it with the flux though... Id like a 17.5 to run stock truck.
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May 11, 2012 03:57
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You Am I posted:I have a M03, earlier model. The M series chassis, once you are using a Lipo battery, are almost maintenance free and nearly impossible to break (c-hubs in the front suspension are the weak point). just starting using the m05 on the new track we have here, its a blast to drive, front wheel drive is really different. Fun build and a great starter if you want to drive minis. So recommend mini.net for info as well. worse thing of the minis is they only take nimh shapped batterys, so you need a special shaped lipo.   ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Welp....I just listed my SCX10 w/ all my bodies & radio for $500 on several forums. That will give me the budget to get a SCT and deck it out with new radio & electronics. Awww man not yer scx10 you really enjoyed that thing.  TremorX posted:No poo poo, I just dropped about $700 today on a Hot Bodies Ve8, Tekin T8 1900KV, and a couple of batteries. Electric buggy is blowing up around here and I want in. We been looking to start some 1/8 electric buggy racing here this coming winter, let me know how the Ve8 goes, still looking at what buggy to get myself.
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May 11, 2012 09:37
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HoWSeR posted:We been looking to start some 1/8 electric buggy racing here this coming winter, let me know how the Ve8 goes, still looking at what buggy to get myself. 1/8th e is a loving blast. You won't regret trying it out... other than paying for tires, hah! I've had a few different e buggies and they've all had pros and cons. I started out with a Tekno v4 converted MBX6. Great car, built like a brick shithouse. Easy to drive hard, very stable at the limit. Later ended up with a Kyosho MP9 converted to electric and partially upgraded to TKi2 spec. Nimble but still easy to drive, not quite as sturdy as the Mugen was though. Awesome motor mount. Parts prices are INSANE for Kyosho, that's a huge turnoff for me. I've now got a RC8.2e and I'm pretty drat happy with it. It's definitely cheaper to run than the MP9 and performs just as well (if not better). The suspension is shockingly plush, and it handles great. It can almost be too edgy depending on setup, still playing around with it. However, if you're waiting till next winter to get a 1/8th e car I'd take a VERY SERIOUS look at Tekno's soon-to-be-released EB48 I linked to on the last page. It's their first full car but it looks extremely well laid out, and was designed to be electric from the get go. The way they packaged everything in there is brilliant. The driveline is near perfectly straight, and the weight bias is designed around electronics rather than a light nitro engine. It's also extremely light... In testing they've gotten full ready to run cars down to 6.75lbs! I think this is going to be the buggy to beat for tight tracks, and the videos I've seen of it on a large outdoor track is also very promising. Here comes that addiction part again... I'll probably snag one to try out after they've been on the market for awhile to work the kinks out 
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May 11, 2012 15:16
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HoWSeR posted:Awww man not yer scx10 you really enjoyed that thing. Yeah, I love the truck....but I want to go racing again! Crawling was a nice "palette cleanse" (and a ton of fun), but I'm looking to race again. My budget right now won't allow me to own several models like the old days .I'd love to try out 1/8 electric. I know it's totally blown up here. Our summer racing track used to just be 1/8 nitro (and still predominantly is), but there is gigantic class of 1/8 electric now, too.
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May 11, 2012 15:45
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needknees posted:1/8th e is a loving blast. You won't regret trying it out... other than paying for tires, hah! haha yeah since your post of the Tekno EB48 I have been considering it, I was also looking at the Losi 8ight as well as the Ofna nexx8. one of the locals here already has one of those new Team Durango's the DEX408? I think. Another track buddy is looking at the Ofna Nexx8 as well, it would be nice to have something different. ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Yeah, I love the truck....but I want to go racing again! Crawling was a nice "palette cleanse" (and a ton of fun), but I'm looking to race again. My budget right now won't allow me to own several models like the old days . shame man, love crawling when I wanna chill. I can understand the racing bug, my 2wd slash was for dune bashing at the local desert here. Once I found a track I could not stop putting money into it to make it race as best as it could. Sadly with no other 2wd trucks to race with and me trying to keep up with the 4wd rcs on the track I upgraded to the Losi Ten scte.
HoWSeR fucked around with this message at 15:57 on May 11, 2012 |
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May 11, 2012 15:52
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Yeah, what did me in was driving by our outdoor track. Here are some shots of the two big offroad clubs. During the winter, this is the hot spot. Normally 2 national races per winter, and club racing with 100 cars on a slow day. It's called SmacTrac. During the summer they race a short program on Thursdays to leave Saturdays open for the club below.  This is the awesome St. Louis Dirtburners club track. Normally 2-3 national races per season during the summer.   I also have 2 carpet tracks, a killer dirt oval, and a more laid back "basher" offroad club also in STL. 10 years ago there wasn't much, now it's just insane. I do have some question that perhaps the racers in here can answer. I got out of racing because I was sick of people taking it too serious, and I was also frustrated because I was rarely shown the same "politeness" on the track that I would show other racers. I ALWAYS yield to leaders, and try and pass/give the right way. I would routinely get plowed, etc. I think I'm going to just go by the "I'll give you one chance to let me by, and the second time I'm going to plow through you" way of driving. Never done it before, but I think it would alleviate the frustration of being "the nice guy" on the track. How do you folks handle it? edit - That Datsun is loving sweet!
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May 11, 2012 16:16
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:I think I'm going to just go by the "I'll give you one chance to let me by, and the second time I'm going to plow through you" way of driving. Those are some awesome tracks you have near you! As for To me the ideal situation is if you're driving with a regular group of racers and you can ID drivers from their color schemes out of the corners of your eyes, you can say 'Hey Joe, I'm coming up to lap you!' and they'll probably move over. If you're just shouting 'LEADER!' every time you come up on someone, how are they supposed to know they're the one you're talking to? But if you're racing in a situation where you're, say, at a nationals race or some huge race and you don't know the other guys in your heat but you're lapping someone and they don't pay attention to anyone talking on the stand, I think it's fine to wait a couple of corners for the announcer to say something or the guy to make a mistake/move out of the way, then make a move and take a dive inside - as long as it's an intelligent place to pass and the guy's not going to take it personally and make it his mission on life to pass you back on the next lap (or worse, hack you up). IMO these views might be pretty old, since I haven't raced seriously in many years and trends may have changed.
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May 11, 2012 16:42
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Received my Slash, got the old radio as expected which sucks I feel like I got scammed but no response from Traxxas about the supposed recall. Anyway charging the battery, 8 hours charge time is retarded gotta get some lipos fast.
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May 11, 2012 17:24
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Yeah, what did me in was driving by our outdoor track. Here are some shots of the two big offroad clubs. Dam, you have awesome tracks! we just have a run down 1/8th track, but rumor has it they might fix it up a little! haha thanks, its not the best paint job but I love how it turned out, the local crew I race with want to me get another body cause they don't want me to ruin the lovely Datsun. So I ordered one of these.  its a Pro Line Mini Nitro Socal Panel Wagon, just trying to figure out what colors to use 
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May 11, 2012 19:34
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After a stop at the hobby shop last night after work and much deliberation, im now the owner of a brand new losi xxx-sct. Since ill be racinf in the modified class, what is good short course motor/esc set up? I dont understand th kv stuff versus truns.....but i should i just go with a tekin redline? The only negative is that is loving expensive.
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May 12, 2012 13:06
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Ruh roh... Took me a long time to figure out how to get my battery connected to that strange esc with the big finned heatsink  . Still waiting on my servos to come in. Can't wait to get this bastard fired up and broken in!ColonelJohnMatrix posted:After a stop at the hobby shop last night after work and much deliberation, im now the owner of a brand new losi xxx-sct. Since ill be racinf in the modified class, what is good short course motor/esc set up? Whoa, quite the turn of events! You decided to go mod too? Keep in mind SCT is a little harder on electronics due to increased weight. Common motors for mod SCT are 8.5t down to 6.5t. Because you're shoving more weight around it's not a bad idea to go with a beefier ESC such as the Viper VTX10R or Tekin RSpro. You'll be fine if you're running mild mod motors (10.5-8.5) but if you want to run something faster the esc needs to be able to handle the extra current. A Viper VTX10 / 8.5 combo is a pretty good place to start for mod sct. http://www.bluegroovehobbies.com/in...7f89263ba15a39c Comes with the progauge tuner, nothing else required to change EVERYTHING in the esc. They're crazy adjustable, and cheaper than Tekin's combo (plus you need to drop another 30 bucks or so on Tekin's hotwire to have full access to options in the esc). Most decent brushless motors are going to be rated in turns rather than kV. kV ratings can be a little deceiving. All it means is with one volt applied to the motor, it's going to spin 'x' rpm. It doesn't tell you squat about how much torque or power the motor has, the the rpm it's capable of producing. Rotor size is going to limit rpm but create more torque - e.g. two motors with similar kV ratings, one with a 12.3mm rotor and one with 12.5mm. Since they have similar kV ratings they should turn roughly the same rpm, but the motor with the larger rotor is going to be punchier.
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May 12, 2012 14:59
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First time out with the Slash 4x4 VXL, rolled the gently caress out of it on speed bumps, did donuts and cool drifts on gravel, huge jumps in the forest and tall grass and some other bullshit till the drat nimh ran out. Body is scratched to hell and it took 1 hour of cleaning but I'm pretty pleased with it. 8 hours charge time is bullshit so I ordered 2 3000mah 3s lips and a charger + power supply, can't wait to get them. Anyway it's been 3 hours charging I'm going out again before it's too dark, hope I'll get more than 10 mins run time. By the way I'm looking for a RTR 1/10 off road for the wife willing to spend 300$ max let me know if you have anything. edit. nevermind just bought her a rustler vxl Sh4 fucked around with this message at 23:53 on May 12, 2012 |
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May 12, 2012 19:00
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Yeah i decided to run mod after talking to the track owner yesterday. He said there are 20-30 guys each week running a sportsman mod class, so i wont have to run with the pros yet. Im having some issues with the losi. The truck feels great, but everytime i get to full throttle and hard brake, the motor just stops until i restart the esc by flippimg the switch. The servo still works fine though. Wtf? Im using a 5000 mah 20c lipo and my spetrum radio system. Of course i plan on buying a brushless esc systeem, but i would like to at least run it a few times before that! Any idea whats going on? The esc and motor are completely cool to the touch.
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May 12, 2012 19:14
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Disregard that last post....my dumbass forgot to program the esc! Its working fine now. So far i love the feel of the xxx-sct. Ill be taking it to the track on thursday, so ill see how it goes. I plan on getting that recommended viper system in a week or two!
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May 14, 2012 01:51
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Any Tips for someone about to run an actual timed race day? running VTA class. also can someone tell me how a RC race day is actually run? I get the basic idea but still not entirely sure how it all comes together.
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May 14, 2012 04:09
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I got my son a Ruster a while back, and just got a brush-less Mini E-Revo this weekend. It's the funnest thing in the entire world.   The only thing we had added to it so far (because it's a day old) is an extra 7.4 v nimh in series and a heatsink/fan for the engine. Do I even need this? Who cares it's fun to have a fan. (yes we changed the pinion) The Revo (with the stock battery) is already insanely too fast. With the extra battery it's insanely FASTER. We started calling it "Turtle" after we realized you could flip it on it's back by flooring it. Weelie bar is the next thing to buy I guess. That and the best front bumper I can find because I know the kid it going to break the front wheels off if he nails something going 60.
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May 14, 2012 04:27
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Hey I just remembered I have a big ol' jeep bumper+dremel+zipties= invincible MERV. Slapped a Traxxas sticker on there so it wouldn't stand out too much.
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May 14, 2012 06:50
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Sweet trailer. How do you like the Wraith? I'm strongly considering expanding to 2 trucks with either a Wraith or Ridgecrest to tackle bigger rocks. An XR10 sounds fun, but the competition crawlers seem like big money pits.....and they look sort of retarded since nothing is scale. They are basically just a chassis with two gigantic tires. It took a lot of work to make the Wraith a decent crawler. If you want a good crawler, get the Ridgecrest. The Wraith is cool for scale looks and all, but stock, it is a joke as a crawler. I used to just leave it at home when we went crawling until I finally modded the rear suspension, it is decent now. If anyone ever tells you it is a good crawler in stock form, they have never had a decent crawler. I have been doing the crawler thing since before you could buy one, and had to build your own, and have probably had 40-50 different ones over the years now. But I recently discovered planes...
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May 14, 2012 10:37
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When I turn my radio off my slash will just go full throttle, why is the failsafe not working ? I'm scared it will just run away if I get out of range or out of batteries.
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May 14, 2012 15:05
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Did someone secretly replace your ESC with an old mechanical speed control? If it's sitting at neutral throttle and you turn it off it throttles all the way up? That's pretty crazy.
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May 14, 2012 15:43
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Laserface posted:Any Tips for someone about to run an actual timed race day? running VTA class. When you get to the track you will find a designated "pit" area to setup your table/stuff/etc. While registration is taking place practice is open. Sometimes it's truly open practice (all classes), and sometimes they do 10 minutes segments of class specific practices. That's to insure you don't have slow stock vehicles with really fast modded cars/trucks. Once the races start, you are assigned a specific heat to race in. Most heats are 4-5 minutes. You normally turn marshall the race after yours. After 2-3 rounds of heat races, the final mains are setup. During the heats, you really aren't racing the other racers...it's all just timing to get your placement for the mains. Once the main starts, THEN you are jockeying for position. Here is an example of how our offroad tracks schedule is. Please keep in mind that we have a gigantic car count spread over 16-20 heat races. Most programs are MUCH shorter - 9am - Doors Open 10am - Registration/Open Practice 1pm - First round of heats followed by open practice (time permitting) 4pm - Late registration ends, Second/Third Round of heat racing 7pm - Mains Have fun! VTA racing sounds like a great way to start.
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May 14, 2012 15:58
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