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!amicable posted:Give me your curtains. I've had them since I was a kid. They were in a box for 25 or so years before my fiancee found them and thought it would be awesome to hang them in our office.
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May 10, 2012 07:10
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Manifest posted:Incoming washed out cellphone pic. How'd you get the weathering effect? Lookin' pretty good!
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May 10, 2012 08:50
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SRM posted:
Liquid glaze medium and snow flock mixed together. (I got my flock from 'woodland scenics' in one of those jumbo spice containers and the medium from vallejo in the jumbo bottle) I use a little to-go sauce cup to mix in. Snow first, then drop in medium 'till you get a slushy mixture you like (less medium = less slushy). The glaze medium helps it stay sparkly and still locks it in place rock solid, no glue needed. Just place on base and push around and let dry. Don't forget, you can add extra glaze around the area/boots if you want things to look a little more wet.
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May 10, 2012 11:09
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will blow your mind.
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Been making some headway on my Empire army (which I believe I first oathed some units for initially in 2010). http://imgur.com/a/7rpPs
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May 10, 2012 12:35
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Manifest posted:Man, watching you sculpt, and slowly improve with each piece is inspiring. Thank you, friend. Growing and improving is all about making mistakes. I would not be offended by it. Here's more shoe lace studies and a complete boot study on an old armature I had lying around.     
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May 10, 2012 13:32
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Fyrbrand posted:I'll have the hook up here in a sec. Have you tried adding a little blue paint to the mix? I think it could look rad.
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May 10, 2012 15:03
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Does forgeworld still make busts? I can't find them on their site anymore.
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May 10, 2012 15:03
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Re: The VISA card thing, I just called them and ordered via the phone, and my card cleared when he entered it there.  It's probably that verified by visa thing that fucks it up.
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May 10, 2012 15:27
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BULBASAUR posted:How'd you get the weathering effect? Lookin' pretty good! I played around with a couple of rust colored pigment powders by mig. They're really neat.
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May 10, 2012 15:36
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crime fighting hog posted:Have you tried adding a little blue paint to the mix? I think it could look rad. I tried that back when I was faffing about with baking soda instead of flock. But no, haven't tried it with my current method. When I get out from under commission stuff and start on my Warriors of Chaos, I might give that a whirl. I really want a 'cold, frozen North' kind of feel to their bases.
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May 10, 2012 15:41
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Shaman Ooglaboogla posted:These are very nice, but I would fix up that middle one's left eye. Yeah it's pretty bad. I tested the technique on him first, then used it on the other two. I was so frustrated with it, i just left it.
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May 10, 2012 16:56
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InternetJunky posted:Misinformation helps no one. There is no requirement for harmful solvents or turpentine if you use oils. In fact they even have water-soluble oil paints now. The vast majority of posters are here to paint tabletop quality models, not golden demon entries. Youre advocating using a complicated and expensive media to do poo poo that basic acrylics do with way less hassle. If you want to wet blend for hours on comp models, be my guest. I may try oils for comp stuff as well. Im saying in 98% of instances, acrylic does the same poo poo in way less time and fuss. Also, you seem to imply that standard oils (non water soluble) dont need solvents. Im confused by that. The only other thinners ive ever seen are things like stand oil and they extend drying times to days, even weeks. And you still need turpenoids to clean your brushes.
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May 10, 2012 17:13
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PaintVagrant posted:The vast majority of posters are here to paint tabletop quality models, not golden demon entries. Youre advocating using a complicated and expensive media to do poo poo that basic acrylics do with way less hassle. If you want to dump all over a post where I ask for details on painting minis with oils perhaps you should amend your OP to say this thread is for people who just want to paint armies and anyone talking about advanced/different techniques aren't welcome. Your reaction to my initial question and response to you, especially given the stated goals of this thread, is just bizarre. If my questions regarding oils and my results as I try them out aren't welcome I'll be happy to take my contributions elsewhere.
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May 10, 2012 17:29
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I brought up really good reasons why oils are a hassle. I said it was my opinion. Post wherever you want
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May 10, 2012 17:38
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InternetJunky posted:From your very own OP: "I've decided to make a newer, all inclusive thread for the craft of miniature painting and modelling." Can you address this point, because all non water soluble oils I use need solvents, and you imply they do: >InternetJunky posted: Misinformation helps no one. There is no requirement for harmful solvents or turpentine if you use oils. Which oils are you talking about here?
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May 10, 2012 17:42
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Well I did do a lot of oil painting studying for my BFA so I can give some solid info: There are some technical rules about oils that do with a canvas but you don't need to know that. You can paint oil on acrylics but not the other way around. The reason being that acrylics are pigment in a plasticizing emulsion what's water based and oils are pigments in oil (which oxidizes). That means dry acrylic is plastic and wet acrylic is water- water and oil don't mix. So there's no reason not to do the majority of the work in regular old paint and then do the final bits in oil. The advantage to oil vs acrylic is that in goodish quality oils the vibrancy of the colors is better. Oils stay "wet" until they oxidize so you have a lot of time to blend things smoothly or wipe off some of it if you gently caress up. Oils oxidize faster if they're thinned with wood turpentine. But too much will make the paint loose it's oily properties and become brittle and de-saturated. If you thin it a lot make sure to add some linseed oil. How to make a glaze mix: Mix equal parts wood turpentine, linseed oil and varnish. Mix with paint on your palette. You can clean your brush between paints with mineral turpentine. Always clean the brush vigorously after you finish for the day. You can use dish soap, load the brush with soap, scrub against hand, wash, repeat like two million times. Make sure to wash well after you finish and use your fingers to restore the "shape" of the hairs while it's wet. Oil paint becomes fixed by oxidation- contact with air. On canvas air comes in from the back of the painting as well as the front. On a miniature it's only from the surface- make sure to use only thin layers and let the paint "dry" sufficiently before going again. As an interesting aside, some say oils only fully oxidize after 70 years! For oil paintings you wait for 6 months after laying the final brush stroke before putting a varnish on. If you don't have the patience to wait while oil oxidizes you can mix some siccative in there: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siccative
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May 10, 2012 18:06
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Verdugo posted:Can you address this point, because all non water soluble oils I use need solvents, and you imply they do: For regular oils, odourless mineral spirits are a much safer alternative to turpentine. If you're sensitive to even this, there are alternates available that are non-toxic such as Graham's Walnut Oil. Considering all the stuff we're exposed to as mini painters (alcohol vapours from liquid metal paints, airbrush vapours and cleaners, glue vapours, resin and metal dust, etc) it seems ridiculous to avoid oil paints because of solvents.
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May 10, 2012 18:29
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The Saddest Robot posted:Finally finished some bases for my tyranid warriors that I painted... 2 years ago? Did you make or purchase those?
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May 10, 2012 18:37
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I spent 4 years huffing odorless spirits in studio classes and i got migraines. Im pretty chemical sensitive, which is one of my reasons for lack of interest in using oils, althoughh i still will probably give it a shot at some point on a large model. Walnut oila increases drying time to multiple days or longer. Hellbeard, thats all good info re:oils. The only thing i dont agree with is oils being more vibrant colors, which isnt true. There are acrylics that use pigments of the same quality as oils and the colors are just as good overall. The main difference is sheen, which oils tend to dry shinier. But ultimately not a difference because most models get matte varnished typically. I you want to try good artist color acrylics, i recommend golden brand acrylics. Theyre amazing. I use some of their fluid acrylic range for model painting too.
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May 10, 2012 18:40
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It's not perfect but it's a "step" in the right direction      
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May 10, 2012 18:40
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InternetJunky posted:If you want to try oil painting without solvents, water-mixable oil paints exist that can be thinned with water and cleaned with dish soap. I thought you had said that there was a non-water mixable oil paint that didn't require solvents, which is why I was asking. Walnut Oil apparently dries to a gloss finish. Thanks for your info.
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May 10, 2012 18:46
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Did you make or purchase those? They're from Dragon Forge. I originally made some techno/ship interior bases of my own from the plasticard/ho-scale crap I had strewn about the place but they looked so generic and uninteresting that I never used them.
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May 10, 2012 18:54
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HardCoil posted:Most people don't really have credit cards like that in Denmark :-/ I'm going to give them a call tomorrow. I know stuff cleared for you via phone, but you shouldn't really have any problems using a Danish card, unless it's a straight up dankort without it being affiliated with either VISA or Mastercard, but do they even make those anymore? Last time I ordered from FW was with a Mastercard Debit, and it went through without a hitch. [edit] Also what part of DK are you from? anywhere near Cph?
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May 10, 2012 18:55
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Hellbeard posted:It's not perfect but it's a "step" in the right direction It looks really nice! I'm so looking forward to my vacation so I can get in on this modeling thing as well
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May 10, 2012 18:56
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Are Mantic Games miniatures similar in size to 40k? Because I want some of these guys to count as something in a 40k army...  
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May 10, 2012 19:52
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Because I want some of these guys to count as something in a 40k army... Count-as Space Wolves: Space Rats. Rat Claws and Rat Talismans and Saga of the Rat.
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May 10, 2012 20:01
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Are Mantic Games miniatures similar in size to 40k? Could be giant space wolves, dwarf space wolves or regular sized space wolves.
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May 10, 2012 20:01
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Space Rat Dance Squad, ovi. Use a Grotesque for the troope leader.
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May 10, 2012 20:01
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Are Mantic Games miniatures similar in size to 40k? Everything Mantic makes is a desperate plea to fill GW's percieved gaps, so yes.
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May 10, 2012 20:02
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SRM posted:Everything Mantic makes is a desperate plea to fill GW's percieved gaps, so yes. IMO, Space Skaven are never a bad idea!
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May 10, 2012 20:31
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I get more of a "counts as orks" vibe from them myself.
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May 10, 2012 20:43
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Those are real bad, even on mantics scale of real bad.
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May 10, 2012 22:32
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bad as in "good", or bad as in "I hate fun"?
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May 11, 2012 01:00
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The only thing I dont like about them is that they are attempting to fly
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May 11, 2012 01:51
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Anyone have advice for painting large furry beasts? I am moving onto painting my Mournfang cav and I really have not had much experience with large furry models. I'd like to add scaling layers to it and not just have it be base brown coat with a lighter drybrush.
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May 11, 2012 02:32
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Thought I'd also post a WIP of a Grey Knight Justicar I've finally had enough time to start assembling. Needs a lot of work, but I think I'm actually starting to get the hang of making space barbies look presentable. Apologies for the crappy iphone pic and crappy lighting. Hermetic fucked around with this message at 02:39 on May 11, 2012 |
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May 11, 2012 02:36
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Khorne Flakes posted:Anyone have advice for painting large furry beasts? Well I certainly read that wrong the first couple times.
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May 11, 2012 02:37
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ghetto wormhole posted:Well I certainly read that wrong the first couple times. Ya, I had a hard time figuring out how to type it without people instantly thinking of the scum of the internet first. Models with "fur" on them, not a state of mind that should wipe you off this planet.
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May 11, 2012 02:43
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Hey guys, just read a pretty cool tip on an airbrusher's forum and thought I'd share: Settled paints that are a pain in the balls to remix (like Vallejo dropper bottles) can be mixed up pretty well by tightening the caps and throwing the bottles in an ultrasonic cleaner. Now I have 4 reasons to buy an ultrasonic cleaner, and none are what they're marketed for.
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May 11, 2012 04:01
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So what better way to spend a sick day than to paint up some mortars:   Also, you'll notice I started highlighting the dark leather since I found a decent color for it. I'll be adding snow after I seal the models.
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May 11, 2012 04:04
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