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Turtles are the worst. Well, I guess babies are, but you know what I mean.
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May 9, 2012 21:23
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Splizwarf posted:Turtles are the worst. Well, I guess babies are, but you know what I mean. Imagine hitting a baby turtle.
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May 9, 2012 21:27
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I have a stupid question about the tires on my truck. Is age a factor on whether or not to change tires? I've been given a Ford F-150 supercrew from my dad. The tires have never changed in 11-12 years. But he's also driven it very lightly, there's only 50k miles on the car. Is it worth it or safer to change the tires now?
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May 9, 2012 22:00
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:Does taking apart a car door just to get to the power lock really involve that much time and effort? I drive a 2004 Honda CR-V so it's not like there's all sorts of fancy gadgetry in my doors to work around. It's generally not particularly involved or difficult as long as you're not a fatty fatty fat fat or a steroid enthusiast. If you have arms the size of Christmas hams you'll need to hire a mechanic, but otherwise it's mostly a bunch of very uncomfortable contortion into very small spaces with very poor visibility. On a difficulty scale of air filter to heater core, I'd rate it a valve cover. You'll need to figure out how the door panels are fastened to the doors, but that's usually a couple screws and a bunch of one-shot $5-apiece plastic clips. Most vehicles if you're careful you don't even need a trim tool; you can just gently but intentionally pull the door panel off one clip at a time. If you find a CR-V forum, someone's pretty written the whole process up already with pictures. And if you don't have a reasonable set of larger Torx bits, you'll probably need to buy one.
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May 9, 2012 22:16
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Molten Llama posted:It's generally not particularly involved or difficult as long as you're not a fatty fatty fat fat or a steroid enthusiast. If you have arms the size of Christmas hams you'll need to hire a mechanic, but otherwise it's mostly a bunch of very uncomfortable contortion into very small spaces with very poor visibility. On a difficulty scale of air filter to heater core, I'd rate it a valve cover. I'm 90% sure I'm trading it in for a new car within the next three months and own none of the tools that are required. I think I'll just deal with the broken lock and let whatever dealership takes my car handle it, unless having 4 working power locks instead of 2 will significantly up the trade in value. The car just got recalled AGAIN so while the dealership is fixing whatever the hell is wrong with it this time (something to do with the low beam headlights randomly failing, better than the last recall which was the airbags exploding with shrapnel) I may ask what the dealership charges to fix the locks. Which will probably result in them trying to tell me I need to put four new doors on my car 
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May 9, 2012 22:35
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internet inc posted:I have questions regarding rust issues. This guy here is the culprit. Really hoping for an answer on this. Basically, should I have each bit of rust repaired and sprayed individually, or respray the entire thing? If the latter, is it going to be significantly more expensive to change the car's color (to black)? What kind of prices should I be expecting?
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May 9, 2012 22:48
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My buddy has been working on a 75'ish Mail Jeep for a while now and was trying to get it ready to drive to his college graduation.... this Sunday. He sent the motor out to be rebuilt and bored out a little to correct some damage from a bad piston. The motor runs fine and stays at a decent temp driving up and down the little road he lives on. The first time out on the main road to get a inspection sticker it started blowing oil out the dip stick. Bad PCV? We have a PCV valve in the valve cover hooked up to a port under the carb. There is a second hole in the valve cover that is just open right now with nothing in it. I have never had anything like this happen before so I know know if its something stupid like he put to much oil in it or something from the rebuild is wrong. Other than the manifolds and belt driven parts the motor came to us ready to run.
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May 9, 2012 22:51
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What engine? Was there something in the hole previously (like an oil cap)?
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May 9, 2012 22:58
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AMC(?) 232 straight six. The oil cap is on and the only leak I have seen might be coming from the rear main seal but were thinking its 2 piece oil pan gasket that was pain to get on.  The second hole is on the rear of the valve cover and may hook up to the air cleaner. evilnissan fucked around with this message at 02:05 on May 10, 2012 |
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May 10, 2012 01:59
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meatpimp posted:I'm more familiar with GM, did you have any Cadillac interest? They crash in value very quickly. Same here about GM, actually the Lincoln got my attention because of the low miles and condition, it's a bit older than I'd normally consider, but it's in pristine shape, a true "old lady car" that had all of the service and maintenance done at a dealership. It was garaged, only lived in AZ [no rust] and is ultra clean, and for 2-3K, it's a "cheap" car with most of the usual maintenance items being relatively cheap since it shares some parts with other Ford/Mercury cars. And I can probably stuff 8 hooker bodies in the rear trunk.... As for supercharging, if you compare late 90's to early 00's models, I guess in theory you could take the Mustang kits and install them on an Lincoln, although I heard mixed reports of it working or if the Lincoln versions of the V8 uses a slightly different head or block. JD Brickmeister posted:Two years ago we were looking for large SUV, and pass through seating to the third row of seats was becoming a must (roof in Expedition had a zillion scuff marks on the ceiling from kids climbing over...). Wasn't even considering an Escalade but the price difference between those and comparable Chevy/GMC was negligible. Ended up with an Escalade, thought I was the poo poo until it came time to get something fixed. Seems like everything in the Escalade is made out of moon metal and co$t$ WAY too much. The Ford was much cheaper to fix. So heads up on that... Yeah if it's a one off part only for Cadillac I can see that happening, that being said, on the GM side, I've seen Cadillac taking "same platform" parts from Delco or whoever and having different P/N or cross reference vs a GMC part and charging more for that. It's infamous in hummer circles as the "hummer tax". Like on my Hummer something for my engine like a vaccum pump, would be like $350 for the Hummer P/N but if I use the P/N for a turbo diesel GMC G-van the same part was half the price. In fact the Hummer part had the GMC P/N on it with an extra sticker  If its something like an interior trim piece or some sort of suspension option [air ride or something] that was only offered on the Cadillac you'll get hosed.
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May 10, 2012 02:11
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12 if you keep a short-handled sledge handy for breaking the joints.
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May 10, 2012 02:24
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evilnissan posted:AMC(?) 232 straight six.
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May 10, 2012 02:30
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DeusVult posted:I have a stupid question about the tires on my truck. Is age a factor on whether or not to change tires? I've been given a Ford F-150 supercrew from my dad. The tires have never changed in 11-12 years. But he's also driven it very lightly, there's only 50k miles on the car. Is it worth it or safer to change the tires now?
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May 10, 2012 05:26
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Tires are only supposed to be good for about 7 years. Sometimes you may get lucky, sometimes they'll catastrophically fail.
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May 10, 2012 05:57
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May 10, 2012 10:43
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Stupid old truck question! I have a Holley 4 barrel carb on my '77 K5. It has a part number of "7454" on it, which I have internet-detectived to determine that it's a Holley Economiser (this word scares me) 450CFM carb. The truck gets about 7 MPG in town and up to 10 MPG cruising at 55; I don't take it much above that. I was thinking of doing a rebuild on the carb as I know for a fact it hasn't been done in at least the 10 years it's been in my family. I attempted to do a carb rebuild decades ago on a Cutlass and failed horribly, because I was a dumb young kid with bad screwdrivers. I'd like to try it again and do it right this time. I'm just kind of lost as to where to go next - order a kit, yes, but then just strip it down, note all the part locations, clean everything, replace all the items I have in the kit and reassemble, then adjust? I am paranoid about loving up the kickdown cable or choke assembly, something like that. Actually, on a more general note, let me ask this: If you owned an old beater/woods Chevy and wanted to keep it running forever, what would your 5 to 10 year maintenance items be? I change the oil once a year (maybe putting 1000 miles a year on it, TOPS) and the cooling system is tight with no leaks. I do have some valve seal issues as it smokes a bit at startup. I am thinking of doing a full drain/fill on all of the fluids in trans/transfer case/diffs, new plugs and distributor cap (do I need points? rotor?), fresh brakes all around, and so on. What about suspension/steering bushings, what pieces can I expect to be rotted and/or blown out? Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 12:47 on May 10, 2012 |
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May 10, 2012 12:42
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Jonny 290 posted:Stupid old truck question! If you are going to do it, follow the instructions and try to use as many new parts from the kit as possible. I ignored parts and it bit me. Like an enrichment valve, or whateer the hell it's called that while being in good condition and even having an anodized spring was a trick part that had been modified. This really screwed with the rest of my setup and I couldn't figure out why the engine was pumping out smoke at random for ages.
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May 10, 2012 12:57
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Godholio posted:Tires are only supposed to be good for about 7 years. Sometimes you may get lucky, sometimes they'll catastrophically fail. Most tire shops won't sell tires older than 3-4 years. You can check for a 4 digit DOT code on the tires [they are usually in a raised pill shape or circle] and are laid out as xx/yy xx being the week of the year and yy being the year so 5207 would have the tire made during the last week of December on 2007. But I agree, in the 5-7 year range I haven't had much luck with tires lasting, even with "military ozone" tires that supposedly half a very long shelf life. I went offloading with a dude who had 15 year old MT's on his truck and he blew 2 of the tires [it was street driven for all those years until we went off road]. He wound up replacing them with newer tires and redid the trail and never had any issues. It's one reason why you see so many trailer tire blow outs on the highways. You got someone with a old boat trailer with 20 year old tires that gets driven once a decade and you wonder why things just go belly up.
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May 10, 2012 18:30
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internet inc posted:Really hoping for an answer on this. Basically, should I have each bit of rust repaired and sprayed individually, or respray the entire thing? If the latter, is it going to be significantly more expensive to change the car's color (to black)? What kind of prices should I be expecting? You aren't be answered because you can't even begin to quote or suggest methods on bodywork over the Internet, especially not based on a written description. I'd suggest you start asking around for reliable body shops in your area and drive to them.
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May 10, 2012 18:43
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Geared Hub posted:Most tire shops won't sell tires older than 3-4 years. You can check for a 4 digit DOT code on the tires [they are usually in a raised pill shape or circle] and are laid out as xx/yy xx being the week of the year and yy being the year so 5207 would have the tire made during the last week of December on 2007. I pulled the original spare out of my '66 Vette last summer. Replaced with a 12v pump and a can of fix-a-flat. If that's not enough, I'll call roadside assistance.
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May 10, 2012 18:48
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Godholio posted:I pulled the original spare out of my '66 Vette last summer. Replaced with a 12v pump and a can of fix-a-flat. If that's not enough, I'll call roadside assistance. You probably already know this, but you are aware that Fix A Flat basically destroys the tire, right? It also makes a gawdawful mess of the machine so you better 1.) tell the dude it's in there before hes' covered head to toe in it and 2.) throw him a good tip once he's done cleaning up your mess. Not that I don't carry it around. I just know that using it = buying a new tire very soon.
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May 10, 2012 19:28
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The other thing is that Fix A Flat is only going to work on holes you can plug with a tar-rope patch kit anyway, so I carry one of those instead.
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May 10, 2012 19:30
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Splizwarf posted:The other thing is that Fix A Flat is only going to work on holes you can plug with a tar-rope patch kit anyway, so I carry one of those instead. Me too, but fix-a-flat is wife friendly. If it's that bad of a situation where she can't get someone to lug the full sized spare off the back and change it (no way she's big enough to do this herself) it's there. She knows it costs over $200 to use that can. I'm OK with that if that's really the best option.
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May 10, 2012 19:48
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So's the tar kit, my wife's not a stereotype.  e: Women who can't change a tire are getting rarer by the day. If you can't pull a spare out of the back, how can you pick up your own children? Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 19:55 on May 10, 2012 |
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May 10, 2012 19:52
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Humdrum Hoodlum posted:I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima that has been sitting parked for 8 months with the emergency brake on. Now the rear right wheel is locked up. What do I need to do to release the wheel? When this happened with my mom's RV I just put it in gear and stepped on it until it broke loose. Be really careful if you're going to do this though so you don't run in to anything.
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May 10, 2012 19:55
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Rhyno posted:God drat it. No sooner do I buy a third car and another of my Must-Own cars pops up. One of these almost became my first car, bought a burgundy '88 Escort GT instead.
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May 10, 2012 20:05
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Super Aggro Crag posted:2006 Chevy Cobalt SS w/ 90k miles. My clutch has been riding very high the past month. I know nothing about transmissions but I assume the clutch is bad and need to be replaced, right? None of the gears are slipping but it feels like 2nd gear is kind of weak sometimes. Just want a general idea of what could be wrong before I call my mechanic. Check your clutch fluid level, make sure you don't have a leak?
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May 10, 2012 20:10
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Splizwarf posted:So's the tar kit, my wife's not a stereotype. A full sized spare mounted on the tail gate that weighs 75 lbs is not something a smaller woman is going to be able to safely wrangle down, never mind back up again. I'm not talking about a car. I'm talking about a one ton truck. She can change a tire on her car by herself just fine. But the truck is just too much.
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May 10, 2012 20:31
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Skeleton Ape posted:Success! I was spending most of my time fiddling with the thin brass tube that seems to spray the fuel into the venturi (again, I am stupid and don't know what all these parts are called), but it turned out the bolt that attaches the float bowl to the carb has these tiny little holes going through it that I didn't notice before. I poked a sewing needle through them, and that did it. A few people on YouTube were calling one/all of these holes "the jet", so I think you were right! In the event something like this crops up again, keep in mind there's usually a "regulator" in the fuel line, this can get crudded up and prevent fuel from getting in to the engine. You can usually just run a paperclip through the hole to clean it out.
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May 10, 2012 21:38
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MikeyTsi posted:One of these almost became my first car, bought a burgundy '88 Escort GT instead. I'm going to get it Sunday night.
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May 10, 2012 21:42
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You're doing the right thing.
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May 10, 2012 22:02
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Splizwarf posted:You're doing the right thing. It's all AI's fault! You guys bullied me into this!
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May 10, 2012 22:05
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Rhyno posted:It's all AI's fault! You guys bullied me into this! ONE OF US. ONE OF US. On the EXP thing, the main reasons I didn't get it was that it was obviously blowing oil out the tail pipe and that it was a two-seater. They're pretty cool looking cars though. I still miss my GT on occasion, Every once in a while I do a search but 87-92 GTs seem to be pretty much impossible to find these days.
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May 10, 2012 22:10
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MikeyTsi posted:ONE OF US. ONE OF US. I sold an 89 GT last year and it was a fun as hell car. I wish I'd kept my spare engine now, I had all the bits to turbo the drat thing but never slapped it together. I think a turbo EXP would be fun as all hell. (yes I know they existed! but only in frog-eyed form!) Edit: here she is on the right. 
Rhyno fucked around with this message at 22:15 on May 10, 2012 |
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May 10, 2012 22:12
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some texas redneck posted:[quote="Fucknag"]2000 Altima 2.4L overheating issues. Alright, so I got out there to take a look at the car. Turns out the passenger side cooling fan was stripped out, so the motor would turn but the fan wouldn't. The cooling system also had some real nice rusty gunk inside it; the residue in the engine bay from when his hose popped was pure rust colored. Lower hose was getting plenty warm, so although we picked up a thermostat I haven't installed it yet. I wound up having to leave, but he took it to a shop he knows where they did a coolant exchange and replaced the fan for a decent price. They also did a pressure test and found the radiator was leaking, but for money reasons we held off on that. Car was handling 30-mile highway trips fine (where before it would overheat after 20-40 minutes driving depending on speed), but today he got caught in traffic and the car overheated again. Seeing as we have 2 good fans and airflow/coolant flow seem to be in good order, I'm thinking that there's still some gunk on the inside of the radiator blocking heat transfer, so between that and the leak it seems like that's next on the list. Sound about right?
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May 10, 2012 22:22
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Fucknag posted:I'm thinking that there's still some gunk on the inside of the radiator blocking heat transfer, so between that and the leak it seems like that's next on the list. Sound about right? Replace the rad. If there is crap in the system and it is leaking any way it's due for replacement. Night and day difference when I did it on the Fairlane, even though I had flushed the system, new coolant etc. etc. previously. I bought a new replacement on eBay and as luck would have it in the interim the old rad blew an end tank while I was pulling into the driveway and the new one arrived the next morning.
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May 10, 2012 22:29
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So, I recently bought an 07 Mustang. Great car, except for what looks like clear coat failure around the edge of three of the wheels. The funny thing is it's only around the edge areas, not on the 'spokes'. So I guess my first question is 'is this clear coat failure?'. My second would be is there any easy way to fix this?
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May 10, 2012 22:40
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on a similar note can someone recommend me some products for stripping paint off a rim? I have heard brake cleaner but wonder if there is anything less deadly. Also what is a good spray on primer?
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May 10, 2012 23:31
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Any solvent that'll eat through paint is going to be something you want to keep off your hands. Lacquer thinner will work, or brake fluid, or a bunch of other stuff.
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May 11, 2012 01:25
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DFu4ever posted:So I guess my first question is 'is this clear coat failure?'. My second would be is there any easy way to fix this? Yes. And, if dismounting the tires, sanding the poo poo off and refinishing them doesn't constitute "easy" (it sure as hell doesn't for me) then....no.
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May 11, 2012 03:53
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