|
Awesome, thanks for the advice. Second question, anything strange about removing the doors? I'm installing component speakers and need to run new speaker cable and gently caress that hose on the door. at least while its on the car. Wrar and I figure we'll just take the doors off, run the speaker wires while they are off and easy to get to, and put them back on. Any problems with this plan?
|
#
?
May 11, 2012 12:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 02:30 |
|
|
toplitzin posted:Awesome, thanks for the advice. I've taken doors on and off alone a bunch. It's not terribly hard, but a lot easier with two people. It's always been pretty straight forward for me, undo the electrical connectors, pull the pin out of the lever thing, and take the bolts out. I guess my only tip is to wind the window down before you disconnect everything, makes it harder to break that way.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2012 14:51
|
|
|
Also doors are heavy as poo poo. I'm always surprised.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2012 15:09
|
|
|
My front bumper has developed a nasty crack because my STi is condemned to a life of sitting in the streets of New York City and being hit by lovely parkers all day. Part of me really wants to replace the front bumper because it looks like poo poo, but the sensible part of me wants to just leave it. If I fix it someone else will just gently caress the poo poo out of it anyway 
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2012 04:15
|
|
|
Roman Rambo posted:My front bumper has developed a nasty crack because my STi is condemned to a life of sitting in the streets of New York City and being hit by lovely parkers all day. Would be worth getting a camera mounted in your car that will record 30 seconds before and 30 seconds after any impacts. Will make it really easy to track down the folks who love to hit and run.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2012 07:11
|
|
|
Sockington posted:Seriously, a grinder works great. Seconding this, I used an air die grinder with a cheap disc and it cut like a hot knife through butter without issues. Apart from following the instructions that come with the inserts, there isn't really much else that you can do to make this easier. The only thing not mentioned in the instructions that I used during the install was lunch, tacos and a couple lunch beers, ended up adding about an hour to my total time. 
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2012 09:19
|
|
|
Amandyke posted:a camera mounted in your car that will record 30 seconds before...any impacts. How would this work?
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2012 11:38
|
|
|
Bucephalus posted:How would this work? Have it constantly recording, committing to some form of volatile memory until an impact sensor is triggered, at which point it stops and commits the most recently recorded thirty seconds or so to non-volatile storage.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2012 13:16
|
|
|
Amandyke posted:Would be worth getting a camera mounted in your car that will record 30 seconds before and 30 seconds after any impacts. Will make it really easy to track down the folks who love to hit and run. Yeah, or maybe just a anti-personnel mine. I've been resigned to the fact that this car is going to take a lot of punishment since when it was new and someone keyed my passenger side and then a few days later someone (presumably someone else) stabbed it a few times with what looks like an ice-pick, awl or screwdriver. You really can't keep a car looking good around here. Every morning its more broken windows and body panels for somebody. Oh street-rat daily driver STi, you live a hard life.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2012 17:19
|
|
|
Roman Rambo posted:Yeah, or maybe just a anti-personnel mine. Good god why don't you get a beater and secure some sort of garage or storage for the STi?
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2012 17:28
|
|
|
Roman Rambo posted:Yeah, or maybe just a anti-personnel mine. I like to think of it as a "big city patina"
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2012 17:32
|
|
|
Sockington posted:I like to think of it as a "big city patina" Yeah me too. I garage the STi most nights but it doesn't eliminate the need to street park on occasion or even overnight sometimes. I could garage the STi full time and drive a beater but the $400-$500 monthly that garage parking costs really isn't worth turning my car into a garage queen over. I have it as a convenience mostly, because sometimes it is actually impossible to find a parking spot. Mechanically, the car is very sound and that is all I ask for. I'm going to drive this one until it is destroyed anyway and probably progressively make it less streetable until its horrible bodywork and punishing ride lead me into purchasing a Lexus for the street to take its piece of. edit: and even then I'll keep my battered wife STi, we're in love ok
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2012 19:02
|
|
|
Roman Rambo posted:
I street part my Outback in Boston and there's no way in hell I'm getting any of the body work done until I move out of the city. I need to get a new (or used and undamaged) headlight assembly because some shitheel swiped my front corner and broke off the clips that held it in straight. Of course no one leaves a note in these situations. Now I have a crooked rear end drivers side headlight that's mercifully still functional. loving cunts. 
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2012 20:21
|
|
|
here's why you don't go racing with a 5-speed:
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2012 21:39
|
|
|
jamal posted:here's why you don't go racing with a 5-speed: What mods did that car have?
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2012 22:55
|
|
|
Also explain why that happens in a 5-speed and not a..6? speed for anyone who may be dumb in the audience. I'm dumb.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 00:11
|
|
|
5-speed: designed for a 60hp car 30 years ago 6-speed: developed for the rally program
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 04:31
|
|
|
It was a jawdropper to me to discover that the exterior casing of a '93 Loyale transmission is basically completely identical to that of an '09 WRX. Those axle stubs also look a little rusty to me to be racing, but I'm hardly one to talk. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:07 on May 13, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 06:05
|
|
|
jamal posted:here's why you don't go racing with a 5-speed: I'm confused, plenty of people (including me) race with 5 speeds.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 06:12
|
|
|
It was the turn in concepts RS. I think a GT30R at 21psi and diffs and an upgraded gear set. So instead of shearing off the gear teeth the case cracks.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 07:26
|
|
|
I really want to swap a 6 speed in.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 14:04
|
|
|
jamal posted:It was the turn in concepts RS. I think a GT30R at 21psi and diffs and an upgraded gear set. So instead of shearing off the gear teeth the case cracks. Oh, that makes more sense then.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 14:14
|
|
|
Installed Konis and Epics up front on my Legacy this weekend. The Home Depot pipe cutter worked great. Clean, straight cut without much hassle. One thing I learned that would have saved me some time: break loose (but don't remove) the nut in the center of the strut mount while the strut is still on the car (and attached to the housing). A breaker bar may be helpful or necessary for the the bolts that attach the strut to the housing, and a pass through wrench is needed for the nut in the center of the strut mount. I wanted to do the rears too, but I could not for the life of me break loose the bolt connecting the shock to the rear arm. I PB Blastered the poo poo out of both sides, compressed the shock a bit with a jack,, then a friend and I went at it with a combo of an 18" 3/8" drive breaker bar, 1/2" drive 150 ft-lb torque wrench (which we maxed out), 2' cheater pipe, and various smaller ratchets and wrenches. No dice. I'm not sure if coming back with a bigger 1/2" drive breaker bar and a longer pipe would help, because part of the problem was the the location of the bolts made it hard to get much leverage on the bars before they hit either the ground or the car (the orientation of the nuts didn't leave many angles the bars could fit with 6 point sockets). A higher jack might help with that (mine only lifts 18", less after lowering onto jack stands), but I think renting or buying an impact wrench might be the way to go. The ride is a bit weird right now with the shorter springs and new dampers up front and stock springs and worn shocks in the rear, but so far it feels like this will be a huge improvement once I get the rears on. If I get an alignment before I put on the rears, will anything be thrown off after I put them on? (Seems like it should be okay..)
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 09:13
|
|
|
Don't use a torque wrench to un-do bolts. Also, the pipe cutter isn't going fit on the rears when you do get them off. Finally, your rear camber will be hosed a bit if you just align the front. Just wait and do it properly.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 11:04
|
|
|
Seconding the do not use torque wrench to undo bolts. It fucks up the future accuracy of the thing. Try and get some heat into the bolts. Oxy/ace ora small hand torch.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 12:26
|
|
|
I always use a propane torch for a few minutes then I smack it real hard with a hammer to break the rust free. You could also try freezing it: http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/ You also need a longer pipe. Try a 5 foot fence post You can also use a extension on your ratchet to clear the brake disk, just prop up the angle with a piece of wood. mattmofob fucked around with this message at 14:25 on May 14, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 14:21
|
|
|
My car is shuddering under accelleration. I just had my tires changed. It feels like there is a lot of extra vibration in the drive line. 05 WRX wagon. The amount of vibration scales with the amount of acceleration, not with engine speed. Please help
Wrar fucked around with this message at 20:39 on May 14, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 17:10
|
|
|
Question for techies here. Would a set of Crucial Racing Blue lowering springs fit my 2002 TS? These ones: http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/pml/pts/2988998002.html quote:Have a full set of Crucial Racing sport lowering springs. Spring rates are 257F and 217R (STI JDM pink rates). Lowers the car 1.25"F and 1"R. Great spring. Seems like a decent upgrade for $150 if they fit. I've heard that WRX springs on a GC8 isn't a great thing to do because it will raise the car, is it the same for WRX vs TS?
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 17:32
|
|
|
Sedan springs sit lower in the rear of wagons from what I have read. Do not have wagon, cannot confirm. You can fix height issues with spacers though, shimmed the rear of my sedan.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 17:46
|
|
|
Sockington posted:Don't use a torque wrench to un-do bolts. He's got a legacy. No cutting involved for the rear it's a full replacement shock. That lower bolt is a bitch. I broke a 1/2" snap on bresker bar trying to get that off once. Had about a 5' length of pipe on there. Harbor freight has a big 1/2 drive breaker bar for like $12. jamal fucked around with this message at 19:26 on May 14, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 17:59
|
|
|
I did Sti springs in my wagon. Didn't notice anything lower on the rear. I think a lot of it is that the wheel arches are different, and people want the same "gap" instead of the same ride height. If you want some cheap wrx springs, I have the ones from my 02 you could have for $50 or whatever.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 18:34
|
|
|
plus if it bugs you there are a couple places that make little spacers that sit between the top and body. I think RCE makes one of the only sets of wagon specific springs and they are hard to come by (I asked about some recently and it was an 8 week wait).
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 19:26
|
|
|
There are wagon specific STi pink springs, are they any good?
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 19:27
|
|
|
jamal posted:He's got a legacy. No cutting involved for the rear it's a full replacement shock. Ah, lucky fuckers and replacement housings
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 19:36
|
|
|
DEUCE SLUICE posted:There are wagon specific STi pink springs, are they any good? Yeah, not too low, reasonable rates. STi springs are around 225-250 lb/in f and 195-225r depending on which version you get. The WRX/SPT pinks are basically stock sti springs though. The JDM pinks are a little stiffer and lower but they are all pretty close to the same thing because they are all designed to work on stock struts (sort of- sti spring rates on wrx struts isn't a great idea). If you are going with something upgraded like konis or d-specs you can run stiffer springs like RCE, Swift, custom rate ground control sleeves etc but the stock sti stuff works great too.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 19:40
|
|
|
Sockington posted:Don't use a torque wrench to un-do bolts. Sounds like heat, a bigger bar / pipe and an extension will be round 2. Maybe a block of wood on the jack to try to get the car 1 notch higher on the jack stands. Does how much the rear shock is compressed have an affect on ease of removal? I experimented with how high I raised the jack, but it obviously didn't make a difference in this case.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 20:06
|
|
|
Heat it up and attempt to loosen the bolt. That's about the easiest way to break the corrosion free. When you jack the suspension up, you'd be putting more load on the bolts since the bottom of the strut is attached to the spindle. If you're still stuck, I'd suggest getting a 3/4" breaker bar or ratchet. It makes high effort jobs like that super easy. Sockington fucked around with this message at 22:09 on May 14, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 20:27
|
|
|
Sockington posted:If you're still stuck, I'd suggest getting a 3/4" breaker bar or ratchet. It makes high effort jobs like that super easy. 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4". 
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2012 22:11
|
|
|
No one has any ideas for my ailing car?
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 04:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 02:30 |
|
|
Wrar posted:No one has any ideas for my ailing car? Did you have any of those problems before you had your tires changed? Seems like a pretty obvious place to look first.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 04:29
|
|