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EvellSnoats posted:Cleaned the MAF, still doesn't work. Nearest MAF is 85 miles away, one way. Damned if I'm not thinking of going up and getting it. DOOOO IIIIITTTT!!!
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May 15, 2012 00:50
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drat thing is teasing me. Went out just before heading on a mission, Boliver TN 85 miles away. Decided to crank it once. Ran beautifully for about 3 minutes. I could step on the gas, it would sing. Then it started to shudder. Checked the codes, I am back to the following list: #1, P0100 MAF or VAF A circuit malfunction #2, P0340 Camshaft position sensor A Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction #3, P1145 Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering #4, P0443 EVAP Emission control valve system purge valve C Fault. #5, P1509 Manf cntl veh spd idle speed controls auxiliary inputs #6, P1550 Manf cntrl veh spd idle speed control auxiliary inputs These have all appeared at one point or another. Here is what I am thinking, I have two different Idle Speed Control valves, the original and one off the junkyard engine. They are $263 from Pelican (+6.25 for a rubber mount). MAF. I have one off the old engine. Never threw that code before, but after I cleaned the MAF and let it sit, it worked for three glorious minutes. BOSCH part from Pelican $203. Camshaft sensor. I had two. They are $132 from Pelican. Code remains, so time to move all in on that one as well? Purge Valve, cannot find this at Pelican, although I understand it is a $70 part and is connected to the driver's side timing chain cover. Now, before I throw money at all these things (total about $700 with shipping), something I am more than willing to do, it occurs to me that each of these parts is comes off the same wiring harness. Also, when I hosed up my ECM, there was one pin that was left a little short (about half) when it broke. Troubleshooting, I am thinking check the electrical connectors for each of the various sensors and see if I have 12v power and continuity back to the ECM first. Assuming I get that okay'd I think I might try to "fix" my bad pin in the ECM. I don't see how one pin can screw up that many systems though. Now we come to the decision. A new ECM will cost about what the parts will because it has to be coded to my VIN. Which way would you guys go? I am really torn here. Maybe I just double down and do both (about $1,300, which I am willing to spend if I knew it would fix things) to get the drat thing back on the road.
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May 15, 2012 03:35
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Come on man....what's more likely: a constellation of sensor issues, or the commonality between all of them that you already know got screwed up and hasn't been tested to be known working? Don't go throwing parts at it. Get a multi meter, a wiring diagram, and start ohming things out.
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May 15, 2012 04:31
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You don't have to go to the dealership for that. I bet you can find a place to recode the VIN and realign EWS for like an hour's labor. Stop buying parts you don't need. Even if your car got struck by lightning you couldn't fry that many sensors all at once. Quintuple check your wiring.
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May 15, 2012 05:14
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PIN was for the Temperature control switch, so nothing to do with those codes. I fixed it by sacrificing a pin off an old video card I had laying around. Tested continuity from all sensors except purge control valve back to the ECM and all were fine. I am going to buy a new camshaft sensor and crankshaft position sensor as well as MAF from the stealership and see if any of those help. I figure my MAF is pretty old and may be on its way out anyway. I am also encouraged by the cleaning it took and started running. There was no code for the crankshaft sensor, but seeing as how the bell housing was separated maybe it is not positioned correctly and I might as well change it out while I am under the car. Apparently a bad crankshaft sensor does not always throw a code but can cause the engine to die. But for now I really think it is the ECM. Any DIY way to test that or can I remove and the dealer check it on the bench? Nearest dealer is 60 miles away. Thanks.
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May 15, 2012 19:18
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EvellSnoats posted:There was no code for the crankshaft sensor, but seeing as how the bell housing was separated maybe it is not positioned correctly and I might as well change it out while I am under the car. Apparently a bad crankshaft sensor does not always throw a code but can cause the engine to die. I seriously doubt most (if any) dealers have any sort of equipment to properly bench test an ECU. Parts are not repaired at a dealership: they are swapped. Are you are absolutely 100% certain that your wiring is correct? And by correct, I mean signaling and power going where it is supposed to, testing all the way back to the ECU - not the cable header that plugs into the ECU.....IN the ECU (since you've obviously had connector problems), as well as having verified ALL grounds are properly attached, specifically engine and ECU grounding. Unless you did something catastrophic with power, I still find it exceptionally difficult to believe that you have this many failed components (sensors and/or ECU). Outside of doing something really wrong like hooking up power backwards or welding carelessly these types of things just don't happen with components that were working before swapping the big chunk of aluminum that had a purely mechanical failure. As far as the crank position sensor, yes, that will prevent it from starting. Either bad or installed improperly. I would check the output with a scope before swapping it, but I don't know if you have access to one. Other than that, I suppose you could check for spark. You'll have none if the CkPS is malfunctioning/misaligned/not hooked up.
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May 15, 2012 19:40
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revmoo posted:
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May 15, 2012 20:27
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EvellSnoats posted:Continuing saga of the 540i engine transplant. (almost there, I hope) Have you just unplugged the MAF? My M60 had a bad one and the engine wouldn't run for more than a moment with it plugged in. Unplugged it and drove it home. It ran rich, but smooth.
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May 15, 2012 21:02
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So I'm looking to get a new car, and was wondering how much you guys thought this would be worth. It's a 2011 135i with every package and the glorious double clutch automatic transmission. It has just over 5000 miles, but I'm afraid they might be very harsh miles as it says it was a 'demo car' for the dealership. I'm not that worried about it though because it's certified pre-owned so it would still have 95k left under warranty. Basically my issue is that I have a limited BRZ on preorder and the dealership I'm working with has been hazy lately, so I can't really trust when my car will ever get here (could be as late as August). Also they decided to raise the price to 750 over MSRP and that is just not acceptable. I figure if I can throw down a few thousand more and get this, it would be worth it. The VIN can be put into BMW's website to see more pictures, but I'm unable to get a direct link up. The only damage appears to be on the bottom of the front bumper, but I'm going in tomorrow to take a test drive of that and a couple other ones. http://atlanta.ebayclassifieds.com/cars/duluth/2011-bmw-1-series-coupe-2dr-cpe-135i-coupe/?ad=19180705
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May 16, 2012 00:13
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So my baby is totaled. Apparently it was a harder impact than I thought, and I guess my car saved me from it. There's two spots where the frame is crumpled, and the quarter panel needs to be completely replaced. I'll share some awful photos from the shop when I get them. That being said. I'm going to buy it back for parts and I want to know what I can swap around. If I get a 328 in auto, can I swap in my old transmission/clutch? Hard but possible? The 5-speeds are hard to find. If I get a 330, will the brand-freaking-new suspension I have swap over? Same question for cooling system? I'll try and aim for a 330 I guess if stuff is swappable. More power is always nice...
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May 16, 2012 02:17
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AlternateAccount posted:Have you just unplugged the MAF? My M60 had a bad one and the engine wouldn't run for more than a moment with it plugged in. Unplugged it and drove it home. It ran rich, but smooth. Well I wish I knew what I did. I had tried unplugging the MAF multiple times. The only think I had not checked was the Crankshaft sensor. I got under the car, pulled it and tried to start the car. Nothing, which was not surprising. I cleaned it a little, made sure it was set right and tested the resistance which came in at what one of the boards said it should. Reinstalled the crank sensor and pulled both the camshaft and MAF sensors. Still did the same thing it has been doing, run for a second then died. Put the camshaft sensor back on but not the MAF. It fired up and stayed up. I took it out on the highway to burn off the grease on the headers. Thing runs pretty good not to have the MAF on it. I wouldn't call it smooth, but the junkyard engine probably needs a good workout and premium fuel and fuel treatment before it runs right. I am ordering a new MAF tomorrow. Thanks for all the help guys. I knew not to throw parts at it but I really needed to hear it from you guys, well that and Roadshow BMW wanting almost 5 bills for a MAF unit and telling me the camshaft and crank sensors were the same (they are not). I'm still a ways from getting it all sorted out, but it felt so good to get it out of the drive for a bit.
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May 16, 2012 02:48
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Deceptor101 posted:So my baby is totaled. Apparently it was a harder impact than I thought, and I guess my car saved me from it. There's two spots where the frame is crumpled, and the quarter panel needs to be completely replaced. I'll share some awful photos from the shop when I get them. That being said. I'm going to buy it back for parts and I want to know what I can swap around. If I get a 328 in auto, can I swap in my old transmission/clutch? Hard but possible? The 5-speeds are hard to find. If I get a 330, will the brand-freaking-new suspension I have swap over? Same question for cooling system? I'll try and aim for a 330 I guess if stuff is swappable. More power is always nice... Honestly, just go for the 330i. The M54 is a much improved engine compared to the M52TU. An extra 35hp makes a big difference between the e36/e46, and should make a bigger difference coming from the already heavy e46. Suspension is a direct swap, the mounting geometry is the same for non XI/non M-cars. Cooling system I have no idea - check realoem/pelicanparts to compare based on manufacturing dates. Manual swap is possible (especially if you have the donor car) but still going to be a pain in the rear end. Even in my shithole province manual 330s are easy to find. I'd find a manual 330i, swap over whatever new components you had, then just part out the rest. edit: Actually, does the transmission interface with the rest of the car like the e39? I've heard of some e39 6spd swap horror stories. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 03:19 on May 16, 2012 |
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May 16, 2012 03:10
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I'm picking up a pristine e39 (99) 540i in a couple of weeks and since I see a couple owners discussing admittedly more troubling issues I figured I'd throw these questions out: I've done my googling regarding the factory Business CD + changer that comes stock in the car, and I see a couple companies selling aux input adapters, all of which appear to function more like a hardwired FM transmitter than I'd like. Is anyone aware of any pins on either the changer or radio unit itself I could simply tap + - and ground on and hardwire a jack? I was thinking the CD changer has to send its audio signal up front somehow. Alternatively, if I can toss a newer version of the BMW head unit (that has Aux) in somewhat inexpensively that would work as well. In somewhat related news, I finally had the opportunity to drive the e46 M3 my friend with the 540 upgraded to and am quite jealous. Given that I commute 12 hours per weekend for work, I think I'll appreciate the e39 though.
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May 16, 2012 03:34
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The Big Jesus posted:So I'm looking to get a new car, and was wondering how much you guys thought this would be worth. It's a 2011 135i with every package and the glorious double clutch automatic transmission. It has just over 5000 miles, but I'm afraid they might be very harsh miles as it says it was a 'demo car' for the dealership. I'm not that worried about it though because it's certified pre-owned so it would still have 95k left under warranty. Basically my issue is that I have a limited BRZ on preorder and the dealership I'm working with has been hazy lately, so I can't really trust when my car will ever get here (could be as late as August). Also they decided to raise the price to 750 over MSRP and that is just not acceptable. I figure if I can throw down a few thousand more and get this, it would be worth it. The VIN can be put into BMW's website to see more pictures, but I'm unable to get a direct link up. The only damage appears to be on the bottom of the front bumper, but I'm going in tomorrow to take a test drive of that and a couple other ones. Funny to see I'm not the only person kind of cross shopping in this way. The main hang up I'm running into is a lack of CPO manual or DCT 1 series in my area, and the maintenance issues I've read about have got me a bit spooked about buying one without a warranty. With the BRZ, tell them to go ef themselves... If the end of summer hits and they're not attainable at or near invoice I'll be surprised. And frankly if they're not, Subaru will be hamstringing a possible sale maker and deserves the failure they're left with. Alternately, you could get a base premium, or an FRS and in a short period of time have enough extra money to get a project BMW, an option I'm considering 
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May 16, 2012 04:16
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power posted:I'm picking up a pristine e39 (99) 540i in a couple of weeks and since I see a couple owners discussing admittedly more troubling issues I figured I'd throw these questions out: There are a couple of companies that make actual interfaces for the BMW, one is Dice. They seem to be about the most reputable. Unfortunately you cant change the head unit around unless its to the sat-nav which... I wouldn't waste my money on. The E46 M3 is pretty god drat awesome, but really, the 540i has the right balance of comfort and sportiness. I owned one, and I loved it. But I switched to the E60, and really, the E39 feels way more nimble. They have a few faults, but really the M62 is a good engine, and the rest of the car is pretty solid. If it has been looked after you won't have a problem. Budget for a cooling system refresh, and suspension parts. Its a heavy car, but it will out handle a large majority of cars out there. Enjoy your ride, its a great DD. In my opinion, still one of the best looking cars on the road.
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May 16, 2012 07:28
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power posted:I'm picking up a pristine e39 (99) 540i in a couple of weeks and since I see a couple owners discussing admittedly more troubling issues I figured I'd throw these questions out: Do you need the CD changer? No, of course you don't. You can either tear the radio open and solder some wires (there are e36 diys, not sure about e39) or buy something like a grom adapter: http://www.gromaudio.com/aux.html. It does take away your CD changer but really.
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May 16, 2012 10:20
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Crustashio posted:Do you need the CD changer? No, of course you don't. You can either tear the radio open and solder some wires (there are e36 diys, not sure about e39) or buy something like a grom adapter: http://www.gromaudio.com/aux.html. It does take away your CD changer but really. Most certainly do not need/want anything to do with CD's. But I don't think you can simply splice the signal cable from the changer... that Grom adapter looks like the ticket. If there are easily identifiable points on the board in the deck I can solder leads onto I'd be happy with that as well but not sure what setting the deck would go on to use em.
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May 16, 2012 13:46
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How does that grom model fare against the Dice unit? They're both about $115, and I think the dice unit lets you control your ipod from your dash/steering wheel, which is a nice feature. I've read a few horror stories (dead batteries, mostly) about the dice unit, but they mostly stem from having Cletus at best buy try and install it without the instructions or similar.
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May 16, 2012 14:31
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Crustashio posted:Honestly, just go for the 330i. The M54 is a much improved engine compared to the M52TU. An extra 35hp makes a big difference between the e36/e46, and should make a bigger difference coming from the already heavy e46. Suspension is a direct swap, the mounting geometry is the same for non XI/non M-cars. Cooling system I have no idea - check realoem/pelicanparts to compare based on manufacturing dates. The problem seems to be that I'm shopping too low in the market. I don't know how much I'm getting from insurance yet, but I imagine after buying it back it wont be more than $5.5k. I can throw in a little extra, but LeMons has been taking my spare dough. I'd fixed everything mechanical on the car other than a/c so that I would have a car I could rely on! Now it looks like most of the cars near that range are old, and have problems. Plus I'm afraid to buy another and invest my soul into it, just to have another prius bash into it and take it from me. Thanks to the above poster though, I'm thinking I may love a m62tu 540 6-speed. Who doesn't love a v8?
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May 16, 2012 14:46
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Deceptor101 posted:So my baby is totaled. Apparently it was a harder impact than I thought, and I guess my car saved me from it. There's two spots where the frame is crumpled, and the quarter panel needs to be completely replaced. I'll share some awful photos from the shop when I get them. That being said. I'm going to buy it back for parts and I want to know what I can swap around. If I get a 328 in auto, can I swap in my old transmission/clutch? Hard but possible? The 5-speeds are hard to find. If I get a 330, will the brand-freaking-new suspension I have swap over? Same question for cooling system? I'll try and aim for a 330 I guess if stuff is swappable. More power is always nice... What happened to you is my worst nightmare for my '99 328i, as well, and like you, I really love the car. I'm about to start on my suspension refresh after replacing everything cooling related a couple of months ago, then a repaint to fix what I couldn't after nailing a few deer. It's rather disparaging how little the pre-facelift E46s are worth. As for iPod/Aux in adapters, I'm quite happy with my USA Spec. I have steering wheel controls, and it'll charge the iPod, too. I was cross shopping E39 540i 6-speeds with the E46 330i, and I ended up with my 328i for a crazy steal, as the E39 trunk isn't that large, and you do feel it's size. However, if four doors and torque are a requirement, there isn't much else out there that will compare with the power and luxury an E39 will offer for the price.
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May 16, 2012 15:40
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Mat_Drinks posted:Funny to see I'm not the only person kind of cross shopping in this way. The main hang up I'm running into is a lack of CPO manual or DCT 1 series in my area, and the maintenance issues I've read about have got me a bit spooked about buying one without a warranty. Since I live in an apartment the project car idea is a no go unfortunately. Whatever I end up with will be my only car so I want it to be a nice one. I'm just not sure how much the one I linked is worth. KBB said 40k for excellent condition CPO with 5k miles, so maybe the price up there is decent. I'm just not sure how to play the negotiation game. I can hand them a big ol briefcase full of cash but it seems like dealers these days don't care and won't lower the price for that, so should I make it seem like I can only afford it if I can talk them down to say 35k OTD? Or is that still too high? I'm test driving it at 515 so I can get a better idea of the quality.
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May 16, 2012 16:37
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The Big Jesus posted:So I'm looking to get a new car, and was wondering how much you guys thought this would be worth. It's a 2011 135i with every package and the glorious double clutch automatic transmission. Are you considering a new 1 series when available that is European delivered? I bet the price would be comparable given the ED discount and I believe Adrian works at that dealership and he is a pro when it comes to European delivery.
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May 16, 2012 16:44
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sellouts posted:Are you considering a new 1 series when available that is European delivered? I've never heard of the European delivery system before but drat does it look good. Munich is my second favorite city but I've already been to BMW Welt. Is there any haggling with the MSRP for that program? It seems like that would be hard to do, but I'd love to go back to Germany. Especially if I can get my company to pay for the flight there/back (our base is in Cologne). E: I'm a big fan of all the options on the used one though, and that's basically the only reason I'm considering it vs the BRZ limited. When you add options to a new BMW the prices go up really quickly. Is there a difference between the 2011/12 models? Also I can't find muh info on the 2013, but it's got to be on its way soon, right? The Big Jesus fucked around with this message at 17:45 on May 16, 2012 |
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May 16, 2012 17:27
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Read Bimmerfest European Delivery forums, it will answer all of your questions. You can see trip reports, photos, etc. The 1 series forum should have anticipated order dates for the new 1 series too, but I know in case of the M-sport 3 series and F31 3 series wagon they've been in the dark much long than they thought they would be. Go to bmwconfig.com, build a 2012, choose European delivery in the right hand column, and add 500-1000 to invoice and that's what you will pay. There's very little to no negotiation with the right dealer for ED (In Atlanta it's Adrian Avila). The idea is they charge you what they are paying for the car, and you build in 500-1000 for the paperwork for them to order it for you. Or that's what people were paying on the new 3 series -- it kind of depends. Also includes like 2 or 4 weeks European insurance full coverage, shipping the car to you, etc. If you're leasing note that you'll pay ED invoice cost but residual will be based on US MSRP -- another advantage. There's a + 0.0003 money factor bump for ED as BMW pays your second lease payment due to the car being in transit to you. Doesn't sound like you're leasing but if it's an option for you it's an option to do via ED for some bigger savings.
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May 16, 2012 18:01
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The Big Jesus posted:I've never heard of the European delivery system before but drat does it look good. Munich is my second favorite city but I've already been to BMW Welt. Is there any haggling with the MSRP for that program? It seems like that would be hard to do, but I'd love to go back to Germany. Especially if I can get my company to pay for the flight there/back (our base is in Cologne). I got back from my ED two weeks ago, and it was a blast. If you find the right salesman, you can definitely get under MSRP for ED. The Bimmerfest.com forums have a list of recommended dealers to buy from who are good with ED. The only differences between 2011 and 2012 are the head- and taillights (and BT comes standard according to Insideline), I believe. For 2013, the smoker's package is standard again, and there's now a 135is trim. Reposting this  IMG_0298a by jawong889, on Flickr
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May 16, 2012 18:01
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So, the dealer finally called back. I did the three stage intake manifold swap on my E90 325xi, and it ran horribly afterwards. I thought a DISA motor was bad, or I tore something. Nope, didn't have a hose on all the way, creating a vacuum leak. The good news: I didn't need any parts. The bad news: four hours of labor.  Lesson learned: triple check every hose, no matter if you heard it click and it feels solid.
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May 16, 2012 21:19
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Has a four-door 3-series that isn't an M3 received the DCT yet?
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May 16, 2012 22:46
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Anyone looking for an E36 M3? My beautiful car is up for sale because I am moving to the west coast  . It's really heartbreaking for me to sell it, but it has to be done. Price listed is negotiable for goons.Pissingintowind posted:
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May 16, 2012 23:41
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If you happen to hear a metallic cling/clunk while going over bumps it's probably a rear shock mount. Hard to tell, but there is about a 3-4mm gap between the tophat nut and the dished washer. Glad I caught it before I did my first track day this weekend.
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May 17, 2012 00:22
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I'm just about to put the head back on my m42 and of course I had to get the cams to TDC. I've never done anything like this before and am trying to figure out if this looks right. In the picture below, note that the exhaust and intake valves are slightly open on cylinder 2 and 3 respectively. Does that look right for TDC, or have I messed up somehow?
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May 17, 2012 00:45
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There should be marks on the cam and head for that. The sanity check is to look at what valves are down in what cylinders and verify that the pistons for those cylinders are also down (I'm assuming and hoping you motor is already at TDC with a flywheel lock on it).
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May 17, 2012 00:54
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Yeahhhh. The markings on the cams are correctly up (I'm unaware of markings on the head?). And yes, motor is at TDC, and the corresponding pistons are down. I guess I was just freaking out. Alright, I'm putting it on now.
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May 17, 2012 00:58
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Mechanical timing scares the hell out of me, I don't blame you for checking. Insurance still hasn't called me to let me know they're totaling the vehicle. It looks like it'll be a lot easier to find a 540i 6-speed than a 330i 5-speed near my price range. I'll have to get used to front suspension, I know I've read that, but how's the gas mileage? I know I'll have more power, but say, cruise control doing 65 or so. Right now my 328i gets 32-35mpg in that situation, I'd be happy with 25-28. Getting the 98 and later ones with vanos is the good idea right? It's a better engine overall I believe?
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May 17, 2012 01:05
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That sounds pretty reasonable for highway mileage. The V8s don't have the VANOS problems that the 6s had, so I would go for one if it was available, but wouldn't limit my search to only those. E: VVVV Where'd you find that? Everything I've ever read is that that the VANOS and non-vanos motors are almost exactly the same as far as peak power, technically both losing out to the M60 as far as like cam duration and lift and valve sizes and stuff. From the factory the M60 revs higher too. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 01:52 on May 17, 2012 |
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May 17, 2012 01:29
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The pre-vanos M62s are also known to be more powerful compared to the later ones, so definitely don't rule those out 
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May 17, 2012 01:35
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Pimpsolo posted:Yeahhhh. The markings on the cams are correctly up (I'm unaware of markings on the head?). And yes, motor is at TDC, and the corresponding pistons are down. I guess I was just freaking out. Alright, I'm putting it on now. I understand the freaking out. And you're right....cam mark to cam mark. That was a "from crusty memory" comment. Either way, sounds like you have it right.
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May 17, 2012 02:01
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Test drove the car today. It blew my socks off. Also in an awesome turn of events, my girlfriend happens to have gone to high school and be friends with the financial manager of the dealership. The weird thing? They both grew up in a farm town in nowhere, Michigan. Her class size was like 20. We live in Atlanta now.
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May 17, 2012 03:04
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While we're on the subject of VANOS problems... earlier tonight, I started my 330i up after it sat for maybe an hour only to be greeted by a sound I would describe as "marbles being shaken in a coffee can". I know this is pretty much what a VANOS seal failure is said to sound like, but I was shocked by how loud it was- it wasn't a subdued rattle, it was intrusive and impossible to ignore. Much louder than I would've expected it to be, but it went away before I could pop the hood and listen outside the cabin. Is this what VANOS rattle normally sounds like, or is there something else here I need to worry about?
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May 17, 2012 04:00
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The Big Jesus posted:Test drove the car today. It blew my socks off. Also in an awesome turn of events, my girlfriend happens to have gone to high school and be friends with the financial manager of the dealership. The weird thing? They both grew up in a farm town in nowhere, Michigan. Her class size was like 20. We live in Atlanta now. Get him to not charge you that nonsense "documentation fee" dealerships always tack on
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May 17, 2012 04:20
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Lowclock posted:That sounds pretty reasonable for highway mileage. The V8s don't have the VANOS problems that the 6s had, so I would go for one if it was available, but wouldn't limit my search to only those. I have a set of  low mileage M60 cams available, for any M62 guys looking to upgrade  Bought them when I thought my bad lifter may have wiped a lobe, didn't use them when I actually tore it apart and found that my cams were fine.Purchased off ebay as "low mileage" but don't have an exact (or even ballpark) figure. The lobes and such do look good though.
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May 17, 2012 05:24
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