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Miniwax has some pink and red stains but I don't know how they'll look in your specific application.
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May 3, 2012 21:12
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You want an Aniline Dye, I believe. Woodcraft has them, Lowe's and HD and Sherwin Williams won't. It's fun stuff to work with, I did my bed and dresser and desk with it and finished with 5 billion coats of lacquer. edit: /\/\/\ I have a few cans of that color stuff. I tried it on some things but never really got excited about it. It would probably work, you can see the grain through just fine, but you can't let it sit for very long. It seems to be much more heavily tinted than the other Minwax products. iwannabebobdylan fucked around with this message at 21:16 on May 3, 2012 |
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May 3, 2012 21:13
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iwannabebobdylan posted:You want an Aniline Dye, I believe. Woodcraft has them, Lowe's and HD and Sherwin Williams won't. It's fun stuff to work with, I did my bed and dresser and desk with it and finished with 5 billion coats of lacquer. Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for. I looked up the directions for application, I think it's going to be way too much work for what I'm charging for the markers. It's looking like I'm going to have to tell her to choose something else, or just give her the unfinished marker and let her dye it herself.
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May 3, 2012 21:31
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So I took the advice given to me about wood glue on my bench and it seems to have worked perfectly repairing the arm rests with just glue. Now I have another question. The bench will be outdoors, so I need to stain this mother. I'm sure I can handle finding an outdoor stain, but I'd also like to paint it a bit. I will be writing a couple things on the back slats of the bench, just names. I just need to ask whether I should be painting the names on before I go ahead with staining, or after that is taken care of. Also, this wood is ridiculously old and was really dry when I started stripping it down, but I think I've found some really decent wood inside, very much undamaged. Should I be putting some kind of clear coat on the bench so it will hold up better? Or will the stain suffice. The bench is likely to also see winters.
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May 3, 2012 22:25
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Paint after the stain and use a stain that is designed for decks/outdoors. Make sure the can says it has a sealant in the stain and your all set. Before staining make sure to sand/scrape any excess glue that might have seeped out, stain on wood glue really stands out.
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May 3, 2012 22:40
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Exactly what I needed to know, thanks! No worries about the wood glue, I figured as much and I already planed and sanded the seams.
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May 3, 2012 22:42
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Boogeyman posted:Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for. I looked up the directions for application, I think it's going to be way too much work for what I'm charging for the markers. It's looking like I'm going to have to tell her to choose something else, or just give her the unfinished marker and let her dye it herself. If you get the transtint dye that woodcraft sells you can put it directly into clear lacquer and spray it on the piece. Or you put it in denatured alcohol or water and use it like a stain by wiping it on. It's no more trouble than a plain clear coat or any other stain.
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May 4, 2012 01:43
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Was given a well done section of Chestnut. Had to dig it out of a brush burn pile.    Made my first box, practicing with the Bosch hollowing tool. Still hate hollowing.  
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May 4, 2012 23:31
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Someone posted a couple rolling pins a few pages back, and I liked the idea. I had some nice figured maple lying around so I glued some up and made a pin for my sister's birthday.
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May 5, 2012 19:34
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Bad Munki posted:Someone posted a couple rolling pins a few pages back, and I liked the idea. I had some nice figured maple lying around so I glued some up and made a pin for my sister's birthday. I'm going to be firing one or two of these up soon too, I like how that maple turned out, sexy.
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May 6, 2012 05:39
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Boogeyman posted:I looked up the directions for application, I think it's going to be way too much work for what I'm charging for the markers. It's looking like I'm going to have to tell her to choose something else, or just give her the unfinished marker and let her dye it herself. I use an empty pump sprayer, pour in about a pint of alcohol, a couple drops of TransTint and stir. Spritz it on. If I want it darker, I spritz more on. If you won't be using that much, you could probably mix it in a small cup and dab it on with a cotton ball. http://www.joewoodworker.com/transtints.htm
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May 8, 2012 17:53
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I don't doubt that it's easy to apply, it's more of a problem of being too much work for one little piece. These markers are about the size of a half dollar, and I usually run 10 or 20 at a time and finish them all at once (just a few coats of rattle can lacquer after sanding the residue off from the laser). The markers are going for $10 each, or two for $15. If I had a bunch of people that wanted pink markers, it wouldn't be an issue. To do her single pink marker, I'd have to drop $10 or $15 on a bottle of dye, spend a day or two dyeing it and waiting for it to dry, then finish it up with lacquer afterwards. For the money, it's just not worth it. If I was doing a whole pile of them, then yeah, no problem, although I'd probably bump the price up a bit due to the extra work involved. EDIT: Maybe I'll just buy some pink ivory wood and use that instead of trying to dye maple. Pretty much the same cost as a bottle of dye, and it'll be classier. Boogeyman fucked around with this message at 23:38 on May 8, 2012 |
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May 8, 2012 23:32
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Can you mix those dyes to make other colors? If so, you can perhaps just call that one marker a wash material-cost-wise, but then add that color to your library of options. The first time someone wants a color, it's a wash for you, but after a few different color requests, you've got a fair array of colors you already have. Easier if you can mix them to make new colors.
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May 8, 2012 23:34
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Boogeyman posted:...spend a day or two dyeing it and waiting for it to dry More like minutes with an alcohol base but I missed the part where she only wants one, I could see that not being worth it. I would just offer to do it for a price that covers your time + cost and let her decide. Though the pink ivory does sound nice. Bad Munki posted:Can you mix those dyes to make other colors? Definitely.
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May 9, 2012 07:21
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What about using beetroot as a red/pink dye?
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May 9, 2012 08:10
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A few pages back I posted about begninning woodworking and a problem that turned out to be chisel sharpness and I'd just like to thank those that pointed me in the right direction. I've now tried a few different sharpening methods and now have some nice sharp chisels that cut across the grain nicely. I've not had much time to do any woodworking over the past few weeks due to school and stuff, but I've got quite a few free days just now and so have started a new project (nothing too interesting, a sort of phone/wallet/keys/change sorting thing - more an exercise in various joints.) I'm using a nice bit of oak I got from eBay that's doing pretty well and as I said before those sharp chisels are doing a fine job. Part of my design for this project requires some dado joints to be cut and I'm not too sure on the best technique for doing these by hand. At the moment I'm just using a dovetail saw to cut down into the wood at two points and then chiseling out the inbetween, but this seems quite messy and inaccurate. Is there something I'm missing here? Also, having relatives who were former hoarders and others who were joiners has landed me a pretty impressive set of tools recently, the best of which being this beautiful old Stanley 4 1/2 plane that belonged to my great grandfather (the joiner) :  It's really nice being able to put this thing to use again, but as a newbie I'm still not too sure on its proper use. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good resource on planes?
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May 10, 2012 01:37
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Look at the woodtalkonline forum. Specifically the sub forum on hand tools. I see restoration threads in there every once in a while.
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May 10, 2012 03:06
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Shaved Wild posted:...dado joints to be cut and I'm not too sure on the best technique for doing these by hand. At the moment I'm just using a dovetail saw to cut down into the wood at two points and then chiseling out the inbetween, but this seems quite messy and inaccurate. Is there something I'm missing here? Not really. You can make additional cuts in-between, break them out then chisel out the waste. This can help with depth control.
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May 10, 2012 04:23
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Shaved Wild posted:Part of my design for this project requires some dado joints to be cut and I'm not too sure on the best technique for doing these by hand. You can get dado planes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgdV4eHrXTE&feature=related
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May 10, 2012 04:29
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Shaved Wild posted:It's really nice being able to put this thing to use again, but as a newbie I'm still not too sure on its proper use. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good resource on planes? Just like the chisels, it's going to work best if it's tuned up properly. Bob Rozaieski has a few videos on tuning planes.
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May 10, 2012 07:27
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Started this a few months ago and then put it aside. Finished it up this morning.I was going to use turquoise but I went with malachite in the end. The branchlet was totally rotten and punky but some CA firmed it back up on the top. 12.5"   
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May 10, 2012 17:33
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That is really spectacular ChaoticSeven. I love the color of the malachite.
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May 10, 2012 17:48
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I'm going to build a couple arcade sticks using pre-made wooden boxes, think cigar boxes or something like this. All I need to do is drill some 24mm and 30mm holes, but I don't know what the best way to go about doing it is. I have a Dremel that I've been using on carboard, but doubt that's the way to go with wood. Poking around my options seem to be using a forstner bit, hole saw, or spade bit in a power drill, but I'm not sure which to use. The holes don't have to be absolutely perfect, but getting close would be nice. Any tips?
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May 11, 2012 01:12
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Forstner bits leave lovely holes but can be expensive. Hole saws can be cheaper and used on other materials, but leave a less attractive hole and you may have to purchase a mandrel. Spade bits are cheap and easy, but are more prone to tearing and blowing out the wood. It really all depends on how much you want to spend and how pretty the hole has to be. Of course the quality of any hole from the three would be greatly improved by using a drill press and some backing material (scrap wood works fine for that.) If you're not worried about the hole being perfect and you don't mind spending a little time on it, you could easily do it by just roughing the hole with your dremel and then using a file to flesh the hole out to a traced circle.
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May 11, 2012 01:24
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Forster's go on Amazon for about 7 bucks so I think that's the way I'll go. Thanks!
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May 11, 2012 01:47
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I suppose if you're just buying them for this project, those'll do fine, but if you intend for them to last, the quality of the metal makes a huge impact. Also definitely use a drill press if you can. And be sure to back the workpiece with some sacrificial wood.
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May 11, 2012 02:06
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taqueso posted:That is really spectacular ChaoticSeven. I love the color of the malachite. Thank you.
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May 11, 2012 19:22
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Started a little project.   Oak is mine, the walnut will be my wife's. Although I will probably add some walnut accent pieces.
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May 12, 2012 06:51
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Thanks for all the advice. The dado plane looks really nice, but I'm using pretty thin wood for this project, so I'd need a very small one. I'll definitely consider getting one for future projects though. With practice I do seem to be getting more accurate cuts, so I'll just continue as I was. I'm definitely going to look into restoring the plane, so thanks for the links.
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May 12, 2012 12:30
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wormil posted:Started a little project. Is it mis-matched skis for a midget? That's cool, kind of a niche market though.
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May 12, 2012 17:28
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Finished the Aeolian harp. It's strung and roughly tuned but there was no wind today. Once the strings (80# fishing line) relax I'll retune and hope for some wind.
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May 13, 2012 10:29
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Got a little further...   
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May 14, 2012 02:33
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wormil posted:I've never seen these before. Cherry.  
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May 14, 2012 06:13
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ChaoticSeven posted:I've never seen these before. Cigar box guitars. They have a small but faithful following. Historically they were crudely (broomstick, resonator (cigar box, oil can, hub cap, cookie tin, whatever), window screen wire) made by folks too poor to buy a real guitar and were common in Delta Blues music. Nowadays they are fancier with models ranging from $100-$1,000. Modern builders have branched out into CB mandolins, ukuleles, dulcimers, dulcitars (fretted like a dulcimer but played like a guitar), violins, and bass. Daddy Stove Pipe on a 4 string http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfuFEDp5-Qg Seasick Steve playing a 2 string made from a broomstick and hubcaps. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-vSZFEWHlo Shane Speal on a 3 string http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wz5wMGovkuQ Hollowbelly on a 3 string http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7xCrgi2b-Y
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May 14, 2012 07:06
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I'm thinking about buying a table saw and putting an Incra fence system on it. Since the Incra system will be replacing the existing fence on the saw, I care more about the quality of the saw itself and the wings, than the fence that will come with the saw itself. Does anyone have recommendations on a hybrid or cabinet saw for around $1k to 1500?
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May 16, 2012 21:56
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If you pay 1500 for a saw, you won't have to replace the fence. Its been a long time since I shopped tablesaws but for saws I like the majors, Delta, Powermatic, Jet; and chose Delta for myself. If you are set on replacing the fence, you might as well buy something like a Grizzly; or a used Unisaw. There is also Sawstop if you want the extra safety features.
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May 17, 2012 00:24
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sky shark posted:I'm thinking about buying a table saw and putting an Incra fence system on it. Since the Incra system will be replacing the existing fence on the saw, I care more about the quality of the saw itself and the wings, than the fence that will come with the saw itself. I would say look at the used market - a 3hp delta unisaw should fit within your range and be all the table saw you will ever need, and it will even come with a biesmeyer fence system if it isn't ancient.
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May 17, 2012 01:18
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Yeah part of the problem is that I only have house power available so I need a standard outlet saw, otherwise I'd seriously consider this monster: http://louisville.craigslist.org/tls/2963334422.html Jet has a JS-10 model that looks pretty promising: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2063499/24158/Jet-10-ProShop-134HP-30-CW-Model-JPS10.aspx#Information Which has the advantage of being ready to go for the Incra TS-LS fences. I really like the looks of the Powermatic 64A but that'd require a deeper fence adapter from incra
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May 17, 2012 16:31
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I recently bought the Grizzly G0715 and it is pretty beastly. You're going to need to spring for dust collection, and I ended up spending about $50 to convert it to 120V and buy an extension cord. Got a mobile base, and going to get a dado stack. List price is like $800, but I think I'm going to be close to $1500 all told at this point. What I'm saying is, I'm really glad I didn't buy a more expensive saw, because I wouldn't have had the $$$ in my budget to get the other stuff I needed. Also, there is something about a new tool that can kill you. I spent 2 weeks aligning and lubing everything, and I know how it works and I trust my assembly. Get a riving knife. It makes a huge difference.
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May 17, 2012 19:12
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I'm putting together a soil sifter plan and realized I'm not sure which is a better method to make the tray frame. Are there any pros/cons to either method of building this type of frame?
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May 17, 2012 23:08
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