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Thanks guys - that did the trick, for sure. However when I was shutting off the hot water line, the valve wouldn't close all the way and I saw bits of a rubber ring coming out in the water. So I ended up having to call a plumber anyhow to replace it, because that thing is soldered on there. I have my limits :p
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May 24, 2012 03:46
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Madox posted:Thanks guys - that did the trick, for sure. However when I was shutting off the hot water line, the valve wouldn't close all the way and I saw bits of a rubber ring coming out in the water. So I ended up having to call a plumber anyhow to replace it, because that thing is soldered on there. I have my limits :p ...you could have fixed that yourself for under $5, no soldering required.
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May 24, 2012 05:23
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Madox posted:Thanks guys - that did the trick, for sure. However when I was shutting off the hot water line, the valve wouldn't close all the way and I saw bits of a rubber ring coming out in the water. So I ended up having to call a plumber anyhow to replace it, because that thing is soldered on there. I have my limits :p All you have to buy is a pipe cutter (~$5) and one of these puppies. Should take you minutes to do everything.
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May 24, 2012 06:22
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Well, that's a little upsetting but it had to be done last night since we're going away. There's always next time!
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May 25, 2012 03:40
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I have hopefully a very easy issue to solve. Recently I replaced my vanity and the trap in my bathroom. Replacement went pretty smoothly (though I needed one of those flexible drain attachments, since it was slightly off-center, but it seems to be working just fine), and everything worked for the last three weeks or so. What we discovered BEHIND the vanity was a pretty sizable hole in the wall, and also that my bathroom (or, any of the walls in my place, really) aren't straight. Not a big deal re: straight walls, just means the floor looks crooked when it isn't and you see a bit of wall next to the vanity at the bottom. Not a big deal. The hole, though, we wanted to fix for obvious reasons. I patched it up this weekend, and had to move the vanity to do this. Just turned off the water, took off the supply hoses, and moved it while I patched and painted. Easy stuff. Put the vanity back and somehow, I seem to have lost all water pressure on the hot water tap. It's just that faucet, and the cold water works fine. It's a flexible water supply line, but it doesn't appear to have any sharp bends or anything in it. I've tightened the supply line nut holding it on and tried opening up the supply all the way, nothing. One thing to note is that when I initially turned the water back on, I had the faucet open and didn't realize, and water shot out extremely fast and far. I think that might have caused it but I don't know enough about what that could mean..
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May 26, 2012 14:56
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Myrddin Emrys posted:I have hopefully a very easy issue to solve. Recently I replaced my vanity and the trap in my bathroom. Replacement went pretty smoothly (though I needed one of those flexible drain attachments, since it was slightly off-center, but it seems to be working just fine), and everything worked for the last three weeks or so. If you pulled the supply line off the faucet and turned it on and still get no water then you have a clogged angle stop. Turn off the water and pull the angle stop off the pipe.
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May 26, 2012 19:28
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If you pulled the supply line off the faucet and turned it on and still get no water then you have a clogged angle stop. Turn off the water and pull the angle stop off the pipe. I get water, it's just at like 1/3 power. I'm also in a condo so I don't have access to turn off the water for the whole place, the whole building is on one cutoff, so it's pretty tightly controlled.
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May 26, 2012 23:45
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Myrddin Emrys posted:I get water, it's just at like 1/3 power. I'm also in a condo so I don't have access to turn off the water for the whole place, the whole building is on one cutoff, so it's pretty tightly controlled. The valve underneath the sink, is it all one metal piece, or is the hose threaded onto the shutoff valve? Does the handle turn several times to shut off, or just a quarter turn?
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May 28, 2012 04:35
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el samuel posted:The valve underneath the sink, is it all one metal piece, or is the hose threaded onto the shutoff valve? Does the handle turn several times to shut off, or just a quarter turn? The hose is threaded into the shutoff valve, and it turns several times to shut off.
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May 28, 2012 14:36
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Worked on my laundry room this weekend making it more efficient and have way more usable space with shelving. Well in the process of hanging a rack to store some kitchen supplies, I managed to stud find a CPVC water line and drill into it  I might have partially lucked out in that the screw didn't penetrate the pipe, but instead pushed it back.... three times (yea it took that long before I realized I wasn't drilling into a stud). I opened the wall to inspect the pipe, and it has some fairly minor nicks and tip of screw dents. Maybe 1/2mm deep at most into a 1/2" CPVC pipe. Should I just leave it and chalk it up as a miracle, or cut that section of pipe out and splice in a new section.
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May 28, 2012 16:10
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Myrddin Emrys posted:The hose is threaded into the shutoff valve, and it turns several times to shut off. The multiple turn shutoff valves use a small rubber gasket at the back end of the stem to shut off the water flow, it's possible that a small piece of this broke off and is clogging either the line/valve somewhere obstructing flow, or has possibly traveled all the way up into the hot water cartridge in the faucet. I know it's a tough situation but this does not sound like something that can be fixed without shutting the entire unit water off. The following series of things should fix the problem. 1. Replacement of the shutoff valve/supply line. 2. Removal/Cleaning of the faucet cartridge on the hot (left, your) side, and flushing out of the chamber which said cartridge rests in. Good luck
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May 29, 2012 13:04
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dietcokefiend posted:Worked on my laundry room this weekend making it more efficient and have way more usable space with shelving. Well in the process of hanging a rack to store some kitchen supplies, I managed to stud find a CPVC water line and drill into it If this were my house I'd cut out a tiny section, splice in a 1/2" sharkbite coupling, then replace the hole in the drywall with a small access panel just incase I ever needed to replace the fitting.
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May 29, 2012 13:13
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el samuel posted:The multiple turn shutoff valves use a small rubber gasket at the back end of the stem to shut off the water flow, it's possible that a small piece of this broke off and is clogging either the line/valve somewhere obstructing flow, or has possibly traveled all the way up into the hot water cartridge in the faucet. I know it's a tough situation but this does not sound like something that can be fixed without shutting the entire unit water off. Thanks for the info. The shutoffs probably should be replaced soon anyway, as they're very obviously old, but it's something I don't trust myself to do - I would definitely get a plumber for that. Mostly since it requires shutting off the water to the building. Interestingly, the water pressure increased a bit over the last couple of days, so it's maybe only at half power instead of a third power. So it's usable for now. There's just not a lot of variation - it's either hot or cold, there's not a lot of middle-ground.
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May 29, 2012 17:23
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I stayed at a friends beach house this weekend and it had rainfall showers. I was so impressed I set off to convert my apartments shower into one. The result....pretty loving ugly! 
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May 31, 2012 01:14
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wretched_gavek posted:I stayed at a friends beach house this weekend and it had rainfall showers. I was so impressed I set off to convert my apartments shower into one. I gotta ask who's idea was it to put a window in your shower?
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May 31, 2012 05:56
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A lot of older houses in my area have windows next to claw foot tubs. A lot of the time the spaces aren't big enough to reconfigure not to have a window in a shower space that has been updated. My personal home (in one bathroom)and an apartment building that I own all have windows in the showers, all due to the size of the bathrooms. To be fair my properties are each over 100 years old. They didn't exactly make bathrooms huge back then. Just enough room to shove a tub, sink and a toilet.
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May 31, 2012 06:20
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Farside posted:A lot of older houses in my area have windows next to claw foot tubs. A lot of the time the spaces aren't big enough to reconfigure not to have a window in a shower space that has been updated. My personal home (in one bathroom)and an apartment building that I own all have windows in the showers, all due to the size of the bathrooms. To be fair my properties are each over 100 years old. They didn't exactly make bathrooms huge back then. Just enough room to shove a tub, sink and a toilet. Yeah its a claw foot tub. (if the horrible wallpaper didn't give that away) The setup I just made also solves the issue of water leaking out the back when i use the shower.
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May 31, 2012 07:34
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Having a toilet flushing problem. The flushing action is very weak, at the end of the flush there is not final "whoosh", the water just swirls around weakly. It is not clogged, I poured almost 4 gallons of water in the bowl very quickly and the bowl never came close to filling. This problem came on suddenly, honestly one flush was normal, and on the next it has this problem. I have googled this of course, and have read about the problems with build up in the rim holes, but wouldn't that cause a gradual problem, not a sudden one like this? I also read about the possibility of the small hole in the bottom of the bowl that shoots out water at the end of the flush may be clogged. Does this sound like what is wrong here? I take it just poking something into that hole will unclog it? e: Nevermind, fixed it. I was right, that hole was plugged up. A piece of a 2000 Flushes tablet got stuck in there. porkfriedrice fucked around with this message at 10:12 on May 31, 2012 |
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May 31, 2012 09:01
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I gotta ask who's idea was it to put a window in your shower? I got one in my shower and I don't even have a clawfoot tub, complete with a tiled windowsill just off level to drain into the tub. Shower windows are code legal. Bathrooms need either a window or a vent fan. The code makes no mention of the placement of the window, just its minimum size. Since it's going to get wet however, most shower windows are either aluminum or vinyl, and their bottom frame usually drains outwards. edit: vvvvvv I guess I should add "most shower windows installed since the 1950s". Before that they used wood because that's all they had. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Jun 1, 2012 |
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May 31, 2012 22:05
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kid sinister posted:Since it's doing to get wet however, most shower windows are either aluminum or vinyl, and their bottom frame usually drains outwards. The previous owner of my apartments must not have gotten that memo. The windows were wooden with the old style wide wooden trim all the way around. It was a nightmare when I remodeled those units.
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Jun 1, 2012 00:26
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I've since moved, so it's no longer my problem, but I'm curious what was causing this. Everything in my old dorm room worked fine (kitchen sink, toilet, shower) except for the bathroom sink. It drained at the slowest rate I've ever seen (a few minutes for 1 cup of water to disappear), unless you let it get close to overflowing - at which point it emptied really fast and drained just fine until you left it alone for awhile - it was kind of like flushing a toilet if I wanted it to drain. It's a 4 story building, that room was on the 3rd floor, and it was built in the early 60s... between a 50 year old building and generations of college students, nothing in the place is in terribly good shape. I'm guessing a clogged vent would cause that?
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Jun 2, 2012 02:59
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some texas redneck posted:I've since moved, so it's no longer my problem, but I'm curious what was causing this. Sounds like you had something clogging near the plug of the sink. Usually toothpaste or hair can do this.
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Jun 3, 2012 11:19
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We have a leaky supply line under one of our bathroom sinks, so I was looking for advice on repair/replacement. The sink is one of these, so no separate handles for Hot/Cold  This is the current set of supply lines. The leak is on the hot side, where it looks like there is a connection. I think the prior owners of the house had to deal with this at some time before, since it looks pretty corroded.  The lines go up into the sink in this fashion and curve towards the faucet in the middle. (Sorry for the simplistic explanation to expert plumbers, but I want to be as specific as possible)  I was hoping to replace these myself and wouldn't mind using the braided stainless steel hoses, but I do not even know if that is possible with this type of faucet. Is it possible to disconnect these copper lines without removing the faucet entirely? I am open to any sort of advice on how to proceed; I don't have my heart set on beautiful stainless steel lines or anything. I only ask that any advice you give is couched in stuff that someone very new to DIY home repair would be able to understand it. I installed a new kit in our toilet a few months back and aside from some initial leaks that were simple to fix it went pretty well, but that is about the most complicated home project I have done. \/\/All the motivation I need. Thanks! Abisteen fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Jun 26, 2012 |
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Jun 25, 2012 23:52
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Abisteen, you'll be so much better off just picking up a new faucet and a pair of braided lines. There are $25 faucets at your local big box hardware store. You'll need 2 wrenches and smallest container of plumber's putty. It's rather easy as long as you follow instructions.
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Jun 26, 2012 00:28
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If anyone out there has a pressure-assist Flushmate toilet, check the serial numbers on the following site because there's a recall on. There's a huge issue with the weld at the seams. I have a building with 80 of the drat things and I know exactly where they are bursting. http://flushmate.com/recall/
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Jun 26, 2012 03:35
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Nitrox posted:Abisteen, you'll be so much better off just picking up a new faucet and a pair of braided lines. There are $25 faucets at your local big box hardware store. You'll need 2 wrenches and smallest container of plumber's putty. It's rather easy as long as you follow instructions. Abisteen, you might want to pick up a basin wrench too, depending on how much clearance you have under the sink between the bowl and back of the cabinet. Here's a basic swapout:
Don't hulk out when tightening down plumbing parts. They're made of brass and are easy to break. Just make them snug.
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Jun 26, 2012 19:23
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NC Wyeth Death Cult posted:If anyone out there has a pressure-assist Flushmate toilet, check the serial numbers on the following site because there's a recall on. There's a huge issue with the weld at the seams. I have a building with 80 of the drat things and I know exactly where they are bursting. All four of ours seem to be affected. What exactly is the fix?
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Jun 26, 2012 20:50
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kid sinister posted:Step by Step Well, I just finished and wanted to thank you and Nitrox for the replies. It was much easier than I anticipated. Took only about 45 minutes including reading through the instructions beforehand. Since this was so easy, I feel like my home repair confidence is rising  . It might be time to replace all of the faucets in the house. Maybe new shower and bath fixtures. The possibilities are endless! I think... I think I might be in trouble.New lines!  Finished product! Haha it looks like I forgot to buy a faucet with a spout. 
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Jun 27, 2012 00:58
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dietcokefiend posted:All four of ours seem to be affected. What exactly is the fix? Contact Flushmate. http://flushmate.com/recall/ You'll receive their fixit kit within 3-5 days. Bastards won't approve overnight shipping. Seeing as how there have been a couple hundred incidents out of a few million sold, I don't think it's the next Firestone Tire recall, but it is a pressurized system surrounded by porcelain. The kludge is probably just a roll of black duct tape.
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Jun 27, 2012 02:35
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Yea just did that. I wonder if their replacing the entire pressure unit or something else.
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Jun 27, 2012 04:16
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NC Wyeth Death Cult posted:Contact Flushmate. I just got the recall fix in today... its a band to hold the pressure vessel together and a new external regulator. Sounds almost like a blast shield to minimize explosion damage of the unit lets go 
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Jul 3, 2012 19:08
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Hi advice request. My Landlady has a leak in the outlet pipe on one of her WC's. Ive found where the leak is, its very slight, a teardrop, on both ends of the joint directly behine the bog. I suggested getting some sort of waterproof rubber sealent gunk to slap in the joints. They have brought home some non-setting plumbers putty. Bear in mind that I realise this a cowboy approach and the correct way is to get a plumber to replace the fittings but we cant really afford it. If its going to hold up for a few years we are happy, but im concerned if we have got the right stuff. The non-setting part of the description disturbs me. This is the product she brought home: http://www.thesitebox.com/evo-stik/plumbers-mait-750g-456006.aspx
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Jul 7, 2012 13:28
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Seaside Loafer posted:Hi advice request. My Landlady has a leak in the outlet pipe on one of her WC's. Ive found where the leak is, its very slight, a teardrop, on both ends of the joint directly behine the bog. I suggested getting some sort of waterproof rubber sealent gunk to slap in the joints. They have brought home some non-setting plumbers putty. I don't know how long it will But hell if the toilet leaks its honestly cheaper to replace the toilet instead of loving around with it numerous times.
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Jul 7, 2012 17:17
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Well the bogs fine, its the pipe at the back. Seems like a huge over reaction to suggest replace the whole bloody thing. Will this stuff actually be water tight is my question.
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Jul 7, 2012 17:31
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Seaside Loafer posted:Well the bogs fine, its the pipe at the back. Seems like a huge over reaction to suggest replace the whole bloody thing. Will this stuff actually be water tight is my question. I was thinking from a practical reason. Sometimes a toilets crack and you can gently caress with it for hours. And its not worth the time when a new toilet is like $135
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Jul 8, 2012 08:10
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Should I replace a PVC flange that seems to be in pretty good condition(age unknown, perhaps up to 35 years old) when I have the toilet up, or if it ain't broke don't fix it?
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Jul 9, 2012 19:56
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I tried searching for similar questions but came up empty-handed -- I hope this isn't a repeat question (and I apologize if it is). I'm renting a house that I love EXCEPT for the bathroom layout. The toilet is facing the side of the sink with only about 2 inches to spare as far as leg room is concerned -- meaning anyone taller than me (5'1) is going to have to do their business sideways to be even remotely comfortable. I was trying to figure out if moving the sink a couple inches closer to the door (there's about 5 or so inches to spare) or if re-positioning the toilet would be viable options. The conclusion I've made is that all of this is really beyond me and difficult, and I think rather than moving anything, replacing the sink with a pedestal sink may be the best solution. Please correct me if I'm wrong! The question I have about replacing a regular (box-style with cabinet underneath) sink: is there more to it than removing the old stuff and drilling some holes/securing and replacing it with the pedestal sink? Would there be any re-positioning of pipes or anything that would be incredibly difficult? I'm trying to really just remove the facade hoping that I don't have to do anything that requires messing up the floor or the wall too much. Keep in mind this is a rental, so I want it to be more comfortable, but at the same time I don't want to spend an arm and a leg. Besides turning my bathroom into a construction zone -- will this run me a lot more than what it costs for a pedestal (I was thinking ~$200)?
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Jul 9, 2012 21:13
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Canuckistan posted:Should I replace a PVC flange that seems to be in pretty good condition(age unknown, perhaps up to 35 years old) when I have the toilet up, or if it ain't broke don't fix it? depends on your access underneath, since it is probably cemented in and you'll have to cut it out low, then build it back up. If for some reason it is screwed in, then sure! If not, and it doesn't seem brittle, I'd say leave it. LittlePea posted:Keep in mind this is a rental, so I want it to be more comfortable, but at the same time I don't want to spend an arm and a leg. Besides turning my bathroom into a construction zone -- will this run me a lot more than what it costs for a pedestal (I was thinking ~$200)? If it is a rental, I wouldn't gently caress with it. When you put in a pedestal sink, all of the supporting plumbing is exposed, so you want nice supply lines and trap / drains. That all take effort and additional money. You may also have drywall repair, depending on how sloppy the drywall installer was, since he knew there was going to be a cabinet hiding his holes.
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Jul 9, 2012 23:28
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LittlePea posted:The toilet is facing the side of the sink with only about 2 inches to spare as far as leg room is concerned -- meaning anyone taller than me (5'1) is going to have to do their business sideways to be even remotely comfortable. I thought thrones were supposed to be comfortable?  OK I have to see a picture of this bathroom. Seconding "don't gently caress with a rental", at least not without the landlord's permission.It would probably be easiest to move the sink cabinet. Just how easy it would be depends on where the existing piping is located. Moving a cabinet just a few inches, you might be able to get away with just getting longer supply lines and adjusting the angle of the trap.
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Jul 9, 2012 23:43
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Awww really, you guys are bumming me out  I will take pictures when I get keys to the place. I haven't done anything yet, it was just something I wanted to have an idea of prior to asking the landlord. Worst case scenario, I was just going to move the cabinet -- even though it still wouldn't provide a decent amount of space (and it looks cramped...because it IS cramped). [Edit] SO more around $300? If it helps, I'm having my Dad do it (plumber) I'm not doing this myself (and wanted the details to see if it was too difficult/tedious to bother him with). Sorry, I am stubborn. LittlePea fucked around with this message at 13:33 on Jul 10, 2012 |
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Jul 10, 2012 12:59
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