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EightBit posted:It's a brick wall with a tent strapped onto the back. The only way to save gas is to drive slower. You'll have to get used to going slower than any typical car anyway, then go even slower if you want your mileage to be greater than 10mpg. Taking the doors off and the top down makes your mileage even worse, but I doubt you'll care at that point. drat. Realistically, though how are you supposed to get one of these things above 55? I was honestly scared to on the one I have driven although it was seriously ragged out. Steiler Drep posted:You also have to be super careful when looking at lifted Jeeps, since you never know when the PO cut corners. I'd personally look for a stock/2" max lift with maximum 31" tires, because these DEFINITELY need a re-gear, and when they go into higher altitudes, more things tend to break, or crappy fixes are common. Steiler Drep posted:I constantly joke about how these are just like legos, since you can switch out pretty much anything and everything is readily accesible (no stupid tabs and instructions like those found on Mercedes or other germans). Yeah, the thing that is attracting me most is the modular nature of Jeeps. Dead simple and you can make them what you want them to be or need. I have had a welder for some time but have never gotten around to using it. That's about to change.
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May 31, 2012 04:06
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Check for stuff that doesn't look factory - not sure how else to explain it. Worn/broken/rusted parts are bad too. Oh, and I strongly, strongly suggest that you do some (preferably a lot) of welding practice on things other than your vehicle before doing anything critical like suspension work. I can't stress this enough - I've seen too many people lose a rig to a questionable weld that looked ok, or have a weld failure on the trail that should have never happened. At this point I trust my own welds on my suspension, but it takes a lot of convincing to get me to weld anything important for anyone else, even though people seem to think I weld pretty well. When you practice, weld stuff and then check for a proper heat affected zone, and cut the metal across the weld to check if you are getting good penetration, if there is slag/voids in the weld, etc. Don't do any important welds until you can reliably weld things and have them pass the "big hammer test" at the very least.
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May 31, 2012 04:12
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kastein posted:Don't do mission critical stuff your first time.
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May 31, 2012 04:23
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A hell of a chopped-up MJ showed up in the parking lot at today. Channeled rear, 3-link front, one-tons front and rear, full cage tied to the unibody, reinforcements to both rails all the way back, fuel cell, 39" BFG Krawlers. Couldn't get a good look at the trans/TC, but the 4.0 oil pan was unmistakable. Didn't get a chance to park my 2WD MJ with its sweet-rear end left lean next to it.
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May 31, 2012 05:05
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SuperDucky posted:I'm looking at YJs because I think I'm interested in the least creature comforts possible. Had a YJ 5-speed 4.0l, now have a TJ 5-speeed 4.0l, and the creature comforts aren't any different. Pretty much what commissar, kastein, godholio, 8-bit, steiler had to say cannot be reinforced enough. YMMV of course, but they are on it.
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May 31, 2012 05:54
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Just get the 4.0 and avoid the 4. Seriously, you don't gain any gas mileage and personally, the extra torque of the 6 is much better. Plus it runs very smooth!
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May 31, 2012 06:03
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Just get the 4.0 and avoid the 4. Seriously, you don't gain any gas mileage and personally, the extra torque of the 6 is much better. Plus it runs very smooth! Yeah I wasn't planning on anything other than 6 cylinder 5 speed.
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May 31, 2012 06:06
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kastein posted:I used my MJ crane to remove the cab from a dodge 2500 pickup parts truck tonight. It didn't go quite as smoothly as it could have, but about as smoothly as I could expect, seeing as I put a grand total of 100 dollars into it. Apparently those cabs are heavy - at least 700-800lbs I would estimate. Throw some lead slabs in the back to counterweight! If you want more terrible engineering ideas, ask me how I got a dishwasher down 5 stories without working too hard 
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May 31, 2012 09:27
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I threw a couple 24" spruce rounds in, but didn't get much out of it. They season fast, around 1/2 the weight and I only cut them two months ago. Hopefully going to pull the drivetrain with the crane today, then I just need to sell the stuff I won't be using in the 5.9 swap.
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May 31, 2012 12:35
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EightBit posted:Taking the doors off and the top down makes your mileage even worse, but I doubt you'll care at that point. At some point I will overcome this by making a my windshield able to drop quickly with pins. Jeeps with no top/doors and windshield down get better MPGs  SuperDucky posted:drat. Realistically, though how are you supposed to get one of these things above 55? I was honestly scared to on the one I have driven although it was seriously ragged out. my 87 automatic with a 4.2L will get up to 80/85 on the highway. It takes a while to get to that speed but it will get there. SuperDucky posted:
Yeah pretty much anything you want to put on a wrangler can be made fairly easily or there is a company that makes it for $$ so you have a choice of making it out of steel or paying a premium. Having that option is pretty loving cool if you ask me. BrokenKnucklez posted:Just get the 4.0 and avoid the 2.5 and the 4.2. Seriously, you don't gain any gas mileage and personally, the extra torque of the 6 is much better. Plus it runs very smooth! fixed this for you. Pre-92 YJs are a pretty good candidate for an engine swap if you ask me. tracing wires and vac hoses to eliminate them still probably wont give you the kind of performance that you would expect with a fuel injected system. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 13:57 on May 31, 2012 |
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May 31, 2012 13:49
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The 4.2 and 4.0 are the same basic engine. I wouldn't worry about reliability on the 4.2 besides old rubber.
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May 31, 2012 15:14
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Ozmiander posted:The 4.2 and 4.0 are the same basic engine. I wouldn't worry about reliability on the 4.2 besides old rubber. You can swap the head off a 4.0 into a 4.2 and get improved HP, as well as maintain that awesome low end torque from the 4.2
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May 31, 2012 15:22
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Just took my '96 XJ to the shop for various knocking/squeeking noise. One is the water pump bearings are shot, he quoted $330~. Second is one of the front brake rotors are bent - another $300. Third problem was a knocking sound when I turned the steering wheel far enough left or right. That's the front end suspension and was quoted over $1000 to replace all that. So, I'm not concerned about the suspension but the other two things need to be replaced. Could I do either of these for cheaper myself? I mean I found an aftermarket water pump on quadratec for $100 http://www.quadratec.com/products/71212_100.htm how hard are they to install? kastein?
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May 31, 2012 16:10
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I can't say about the water pump, but you should be able to take care of rotors yourself with a pair of jack stands and a couple tools. That said, I've heard many people here on AI claim that warped rotors are a myth. Did he say they were worn, or bent? If he said bent, is this mechanic a trustworthy fellow? Have you gotten a second opinion yet? EDIT: I heard that water pump is awesome, let us know how install goes if you do it on your own.
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May 31, 2012 16:45
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Ozmiander posted:The 4.2 and 4.0 are the same basic engine. I wouldn't worry about reliability on the 4.2 besides old rubber. reliability isnt what I was talking about. I'm sure this beast will run dry for miles. It's kalashnikov simple and boringly reliable. I'm talking about the POS e-carb system. scroll up to Kastein's 1980s.jpg to see what I mean. Steiler Drep posted:You can swap the head off a 4.0 into a 4.2 and get improved HP, as well as maintain that awesome low end torque from the 4.2 how easy is this vs. a straight 4.0 repower? edit: http://offroad-review.com/new/index.php?page=68 Doesn't look nearly as invasive as I thought. Would be a good excuse to remove the head and clean the piston wells/inside the valve cover up a little too. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 17:13 on May 31, 2012 |
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May 31, 2012 17:03
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It wasn't the most painful thing i've done, but it wasn't exactly easy, don't sweat it though. Get yourself a haynes manual and do the thermostat while you're at it.
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May 31, 2012 17:03
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commissargribb posted:reliability isnt what I was talking about. I'm sure this beast will run dry for miles. It's kalashnikov simple and boringly reliable. I owned an 89 Grand Wagoneer. It has twice the vac hoses of a yj. I know how much they suck, lol
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May 31, 2012 17:30
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I lost my last key fob for my 2003 Jeep Liberty Sport. I called the dealership and they wanted like $85 for the part, which is insane. I was looking online and I came across this. Is there any reason I couldn't buy these and take them to the dealership to be programmed? I am tired of not having one but I also don't want to break the bank doing it.
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May 31, 2012 17:48
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roboshit posted:Ugh....I wanna check with you guys and see if y'all think it's the same problem that I think it is (I can't really afford to keep fixing parts that aren't necessarily broken). My 96 XJ will start up ok but after about 30 minutes or so of driving and the temp gauge halfway, the engine won't crank. This has only become an issue as we've been moving into the hotter part of the year. Today it's REALLY hot and it actually stalled as I was pulling into my apartment's parking lot. It's not starting up right now and I know it won't for at least another hour and a half until it cools down. Following up on this in case future generations of goons have the same issue: Yeah the CPS was whack, swapped that out with a new one and it runs beautifully now even idling in this hellish Texan weather.
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May 31, 2012 18:47
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commissargribb posted:At some point I will overcome this by making a my windshield able to drop quickly with pins. Jeeps with no top/doors and windshield down get better MPGs I've wanted to drop my windshield for a long time, especially since I used to live in Corpus Christi. On TJs, you have to remove the windshield wiper arms before you can drop the windshield.  and all that, considering that going faster than 30mph with no windshield in South Texas is basically a guarantee that you'll get hit with bugs. How cool can you look riding in your Jeep with a motorcycle helmet on?
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May 31, 2012 19:23
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MAJOR STRYkER posted:Just took my '96 XJ to the shop for various knocking/squeeking noise. One is the water pump bearings are shot, he quoted $330~. Second is one of the front brake rotors are bent - another $300. Third problem was a knocking sound when I turned the steering wheel far enough left or right. That's the front end suspension and was quoted over $1000 to replace all that. jesus loving christ find a new shop  water pump parts total $50 or so and it's a 3 hour driveway job if you have no idea what you're doing. brake rotors are a 20 minute, $80 job (assuming you buy good ones AND new pads) and require a lug wrench and a 12 or 13mm socket+ratchet. ANYONE can do these on an XJ. It's literally nearly as easy as changing a tire - only two more bolts, and they're little ones with almost no torque on them. I'm betting you have a bad track bar causing the knocking sound, or possibly a loose TRE or balljoint. Those can suck to replace but are totally doable by anyone with reasonable mechanical ability and rented tools from your local parts store. gently caress, you could buy all the tools you need to do the whole job AND all the parts and still pay less than $1k. Where are you? If you are anywhere near central mass, drive that sucker up here and I'll tell you what's wrong with it, what to order, you order the parts, come back when you've got them and we can knock it out in no more than an afternoon. other thoughts: dear god I need to open a shop so I can charge people these kinds of prices. No wonder people hate mechanics!
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May 31, 2012 19:26
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EightBit posted:I've wanted to drop my windshield for a long time, especially since I used to live in Corpus Christi. On TJs, you have to remove the windshield wiper arms before you can drop the windshield. you really have to remove the wiper blades? That seems like a bit much to me.
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May 31, 2012 19:27
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commissargribb posted:you really have to remove the wiper blades? That seems like a bit much to me. Yeah, the motors for the TJ windshield wipers are in the cowling; the arms can't be moved out of the way any other way.
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May 31, 2012 19:33
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Should I be mad when the mechanic breaks the clamps that hold in the catalytic converter and they can't get a replacement until tomorrow? Only a $20 part but I'm about to spend that in train/bus fare getting home tonight and to work tomorrow. I know poo poo happens but it's in the shop now for three days to get a new cat  It seems like they should've taken out the cat before ordering the new one, then if they broke a part they could order it at the same time. I hate car problems and I wish I could know 100% that my mechanic wasn't full of poo poo and gouging me.
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May 31, 2012 20:09
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kastein posted:No wonder people hate mechanics! My problem with them is shop hours. I wanted my clutch done, it was starting to slip and asked them to replace the rear main while they had the trans dropped and they wanted to double the hours. If you are a shop owner and try that poo poo, you should be raped with a rake.
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May 31, 2012 20:16
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the U-bolt ones? I don't even bother trying to unbolt them anymore, I just cut em in half. I'm surprised they didn't do the same. They're so close to the heat of the catalytic converter that they are almost always rusted solid and/or (in the rust belt) an unrecognizable blob of rust anyways. Most shops won't start a job till they have all the parts they expect to need, simply because generally that means a shop bay tied up with a torn apart vehicle in it for up to a day or two while waiting for parts to arrive. Throughput (and therefore shop space) are king, leaving something sitting in a shop bay not being worked on is a waste. EDIT: RMS on what? If it was on a 4.0 they were probably being nice. I absolutely hate doing rear mains on 4.0s, it's a 2 piece seal and getting the oil pan off is a bitch job. If it was on a 2.5 I agree, since they just had to spend another 30 minutes pulling the flywheel, replacing the seal, and putting the flywheel back on. I don't know anything about the V6 motors in the later jeeps. There are only a few jobs on XJs/ZJs/4.0 equipped vehicles that I really, really hate. rear main seals, rear leaf bushings, rear shocks (some years aren't so bad), heater cores, and evaporator coils. kastein fucked around with this message at 20:33 on May 31, 2012 |
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May 31, 2012 20:29
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kastein posted:jesus loving christ find a new shop Looks like I'll be doing this myself then, thanks for the encouragement. If it's just nuts and bolts and putting stuff back where it came from I shouldn't have a problem figuring it out. I would totally take you up on that offer - but I'm in NC. I'll have to ask what is wrong with the front suspension because I could just go ahead and buy a lift kit for like $400 and replace the springs and everything. e; I think most places would charge around that, labor for car stuff is always outrageous.
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May 31, 2012 20:38
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On the front suspension if you can find a buddy to turn the wheel back and forth while you go over the suspension and find what's wobbling/has play in it when it shouldn't, you will be miles ahead on diagnosis. No single part on an XJ front suspension will cost you over a hundred bucks, and with the right tricks and/or a helper none of them require more torque than a normal person can apply with both hands, so you should be good to go. The exception is a track bar, those are a hellish project usually and the only reason I did mine myself is because I hate paying other people to do stuff for me. Oh, and I had an oxyacetylene torch to make things a little easier / melt everything I didn't care about. My bet is on either crunchy balljoints, a loose steering box, or a worn track bar. Hopefully the balljoints, they're not all that bad with the right tools. Steering boxes and track bars kinda suck unless you have a torch and/or other "big gun" type tools on hand. Since the part in question is bad enough that it's making a popping noise, finding it should be as easy as finding the noise. If you can't track it down try using touch instead, you'll likely feel it quite distinctly.
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May 31, 2012 20:44
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kastein posted:the U-bolt ones? I don't even bother trying to unbolt them anymore, I just cut em in half. I'm surprised they didn't do the same. They're so close to the heat of the catalytic converter that they are almost always rusted solid and/or (in the rust belt) an unrecognizable blob of rust anyways. Thanks for making sense of it 
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May 31, 2012 21:16
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He wrote it all down for me! + he said there were a lot of leaks So I think I'll try and knock out the brakes and water pump. Can I pm you for some help with some of these things?
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May 31, 2012 21:59
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MAJOR STRYkER posted:He wrote it all down for me! fuuuuuuuuuuck.
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May 31, 2012 22:10
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anytime. I don't really care about leaks personally, though shockingly my jeep is only leaking fuel right now. Need to pull the drat fuel sender out and re-braze the spot where the tube goes through the bulkhead, because the drat thing broke. It's not a problem unless the tank is over 3/4 full though, so I'm tempted to leave it as-is, as my near term plans involve a fuel cell anyways.
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May 31, 2012 23:59
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I have finally gotten around to putting bed liner in my JK. It is lined inside up to front seats, where I stopped because I didn't feel like cleaning the dirt out from under the seats. I'll go back in later and touch it up, but I feel like I'll be satisfied with the final result.
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Jun 1, 2012 01:06
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Minion of Cthulhu posted:I have finally gotten around to putting bed liner in my JK. It is lined inside up to front seats, where I stopped because I didn't feel like cleaning the dirt out from under the seats. I'll go back in later and touch it up, but I feel like I'll be satisfied with the final result. You've done the right thing.
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Jun 1, 2012 01:37
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Welp after going to look at that 94 wrangler and being less than impressed I went and picked up an e30 BMW because I was bored in a Mcdonalds, saw the ad and decided what the hell, its on the way home. Maybe I'm just not cut out to hang with the cool kids.  Seriously, thanks for all the info, y'all were really helpful. I think down the road I might be interested in picking a YJ up as a second car but with all the highway driving I do I think I made the better choice. Happy Jeeping! Heretical content: 
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Jun 1, 2012 05:39
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kastein posted:anytime. My XJ has had a fuel leak for the better part of the last two years. I've tightened the clamp on the fuel line running out of the filter three times and it's only ever a temporary fix. I drive it appx. 2000 miles per year. I no longer care. The smell makes me think of Jeeps.
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Jun 1, 2012 11:51
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Hey guys I just had my previous car totaled and have decided that I want a jeep as my replacement. I used to own a lemon Grand Cherokee 5.7l v8 hemi Ltd bs that would blow a fuse every thousand miles or so. That's the only experience i have had with jeep. I was hoping to find a diesel manual. I was hoping you guys would know any websites I could checkout. I am a beginner when it comes to what I can do to fix a car but I was hoping of using this new car as a chance to learn. Thanks in advance.
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Jun 1, 2012 20:53
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Vrigg Chan posted:Hey guys I just had my previous car totaled and have decided that I want a jeep as my replacement. I used to own a lemon Grand Cherokee 5.7l v8 hemi Ltd bs that would blow a fuse every thousand miles or so. That's the only experience i have had with jeep. I was hoping to find a diesel manual. I was hoping you guys would know any websites I could checkout. I am a beginner when it comes to what I can do to fix a car but I was hoping of using this new car as a chance to learn. Thanks in advance.
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Jun 1, 2012 21:13
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Unfortunately my insurance company didn't give me enough to buy a new car so I'm looking for something used. My main uses would be around town and to haul camping gear, ski gear, climbing gear, and hunting gear. I was hoping for something I can open up in the summer for the beach, which is why I was leaning towards the wrangler. I think the grand Cherokee was an 04. It was awesome except that it broke down all the time and got 14/17 mpg. Vrigg Chan fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Jun 1, 2012 |
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Jun 1, 2012 22:00
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Vrigg Chan posted:It was awesome except that it broke down all the time and got 14/17 mpg. Welcome to owning a high end SUV. If it has 4wd and a V8 you can never expect anything better than 20. A Wrangler will never get any better than 18, due to the aerodynamic properties of a brick and the weight of one as well. If you want some decent fuel economy, ability to go places, and some reliability, buy a Subaru Outback.
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Jun 1, 2012 23:57
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