|
Legerdemain posted:I'm trying to think of a chain cleaning procedure where doing it in your living room wouldn't be a disastrous idea. Garage is carpeted  , theres a 20' quilting machine next to it and the carpet is better than concrete for standing for hours.
|
#
?
May 29, 2012 18:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 04:25 |
|
|
Legerdemain posted:I'm trying to think of a chain cleaning procedure where doing it in your living room wouldn't be a disastrous idea. Shouldn't be making that big of a mess just cleaning and lubing the chain. Just put down some rags for drips and go for it.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2012 18:31
|
|
|
I bid thee farewell   Insurance company came and picked up the wreckage.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2012 18:37
|
|
|
gently caress I missed something, what happened? Buy that sucker back and part it out!
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2012 19:09
|
|
|
Spiffness posted:gently caress I missed something, what happened? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3091384&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=55#post402991588 Old man who shouldn't be driving + wr = sadface
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2012 19:31
|
|
|
Oh gently caress that's right. Now I'm sad all over again. I bet you could make a bit of scratch parting that. Lots of people would want the wheels & suspension for a SM conversion, the engine is a bit of a rarity, not a lot of parts out there for those bikes yet. It's a sellers market for that I think, if the insurance company would give you a decent price. Though I have no idea what buyback prices are like. Too drat bad, those are some pretty wheels too.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2012 19:39
|
|
|
Spiffness posted:Oh gently caress that's right. Now I'm sad all over again. I bet you could make a bit of scratch parting that. Lots of people would want the wheels & suspension for a SM conversion, the engine is a bit of a rarity, not a lot of parts out there for those bikes yet. It's a sellers market for that I think, if the insurance company would give you a decent price. Well the front wheel was hosed and the back was hosed up on the other side. The motor MAY have been good, the clutch side came in contact with the steel wheel on my car and put a hefty dent in it, as well as cracked the clutch cover/engine. I thought about it a lot, the frame/subframe/exhaust/wheels were all shot, didn't really seem to be a good idea. Also, they paid me almost 2k more than I paid for it so I took the money and ran  Added spoilers due to paranoia about insurance people seeing this (not that it helps at all)
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2012 22:04
|
|
|
I gutted and cleaned my carbs, discovering that not only were the vacuum slides frozen in place (I knew that yesterday), but the pilot jets were clogged too. I'm amazed at how much disgusting resinous poo poo built up inside from only sitting 6 weeks without running. Except for some idle issues and a lower-than-usual power output, the bike was running quite happily on just the main jets. Another point to Soichiro Honda. I also took apart my flasher relay and repaired it. Interesting how people did things before there were transistors...a carefully-shaped bimetallic strip and some lateral thinking is all you need.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2012 07:23
|
|
|
Been raining, so I decided to start making a new seat pan to try out some fiber glass work. Spent a lot of zen time shaping the foam, but I think the seat could be pretty sexy, unless I gently caress it up (I'm going to gently caress it up).   
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2012 18:33
|
|
|
Tamir Lenk posted:Been raining, so I decided to start making a new seat pan to try out some fiber glass work. Spent a lot of zen time shaping the foam, but I think the seat could be pretty sexy, unless I gently caress it up (I'm going to gently caress it up). I may have already asked, but where do you get your foam? I want to try my hand at shaping some seatpans. I'm already good at laying fiberglass.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2012 21:19
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I may have already asked, but where do you get your foam? I used insulation foam board from the local hardware/home center. They have it at Lowes/HomeDepot. My place only had 2" board, which is part of why the mock up sits so high on the frame. I'll trim the bottom to about 1.25 - 1.5" to lower that some. If they'd had 1" or 1.5", that would be better. Even the thick stuff is only $20 for a 4x8 sheet. With just one sheet of the 2" I have enough material to make 2 more seats, with a little to spare. One sheet of 1.5" would still yield 3 seats unless you totally botched one (which will totally happen at my end). Others like to use that green foam for flower arrangements that you can find at craft stores (Michael's, etc.). I am used to working with the denser stuff, since pink foam board is great for making hills for toy soldiers and other miniatures gaming terrain (nerd cross over alert). The dense stuff cuts with a long box cutter (Al Qaeda Boarding Pass) or a saw. I also have a hot foam knife. It's basically a tube with D-cells that runs current through a 4" filament, using the heat to slice through the foam. Once you rough cut it, I found that sanding sponges in rough/medium grits worked pretty good for shaping. Take it easy though, the sponges rip through that foam fairly quick, and it's easy to take off too much before you know it. HTH
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2012 21:39
|
|
|
Tamir Lenk posted:I used insulation foam board from the local hardware/home center. Beautiful. I'm too clumsy to use the green flower foam. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2012 22:04
|
|
|
Thanks, that's awesome...I tried using clay before and it was a disaster.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2012 22:08
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Beautiful. I'm too clumsy to use the green flower foam. Thanks! So, back at you on this.  Can I get the fiberglass and resin from basic auto/home sources (Auto Zone, Lowes, etc.), or do I need to go for more industrial supply specialty sources?I am a glassing n00b, you see.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2012 22:58
|
|
|
Tamir Lenk posted:I used insulation foam board from the local hardware/home center.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2012 23:05
|
|
|
Zool posted:I'm pretty sure that would be dissolved by styrene monomer, you'll want a barrier between it and the glass when you lay-up if you weren't already planning on it. Indeed. If I don't get some epoxy sealer because  , I will seal the foam with painters tape and/or foil and then auto wax the gently caress out of it for a release agent.Some folks say to avoid foil because it wrinkles, but I am just going to lay the glass on top, not make a mold, so surface hiccups underneath won't matter. I'll deal with the top surfacing with bondo, etc. as needed.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2012 23:18
|
|
|
Zool posted:I'm pretty sure that would be dissolved by styrene monomer, you'll want a barrier between it and the glass when you lay-up if you weren't already planning on it. I built a float for a mini-baja car using the insulation foam, and we wrapped that in duct tape before laying the fiber glass. It worked pretty well.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2012 23:23
|
|
|
Tamir Lenk posted:Indeed. If I don't get some epoxy sealer because I just did exactly what you are doing. I also use extruded polysytrene, in 2" and 1" thickness. Use painter's tape to cover the foam, then use A/C ducting tape (aka aluminum tape) over the painter's tape. If you don't use A/C tape, the heat from the resin will melt your foam mold, or, the resin will seep through the seams in the tape and melt it that way. Ask me how I know. Then put about 4 coats of wax on, paying special attention to any creases or bends. The resin I used is Bondo brand. I noticed that you can buy it much cheaper from a place like Menards vs a Auto parts store, $10 vs $17. One can should be enough if you are careful. The cloth I used is the more tightly woven smoother cloth, not the rough stuff. The rough stuff is too hard to work with, doesn't bend easily. Don't worry about getting the tape smooth, because your fiberglass won't be. *edit* Here is my "finished" product, though it still needs a little filling, sanding, painting, etc. 
Gweenz fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jun 1, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2012 23:28
|
|
|
The hot wireknife is going to be a  experience for anyone who's never used one. They're the perfect tool.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2012 00:03
|
|
|
Wanted to loving kill it Thursday since it wasn't starting or running right, after Sunday's semi-victorious ride home. Put me in a worse mood than I already was. Tried starting it again today, won't stay running without full choke. Argh. Today: finally took apart my tach to remove the spider web that was preventing proper operation  No idea what to do about the not running properly situation, since I don't have a garage to work in here 
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2012 16:02
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Thanks, that's awesome...I tried using clay before and it was a disaster. Don't be too thankful just yet. Tamir Lenks mold is sexy, but will implode as soon as it meets resin. It's usable though, but not in its current form. I'd use Bondo putty on it and some hours of wet-sanding. Then some more Bondo and more wet sanding. Down to at least grit 600. Probably 800. Then clear coat it with automotive paint. Several layers with grit 1200 wet-sanding in-between. I usually end up with at least a dozen coats before I'm satisfied. Apply a liberal coat of molding wax for each use of the mold. Now you're ready to do serious serial-production of carbon- or glass-fiber parts. Working with fibers and resin is loving easy. The mold is all the work. The work you put in the mold will be worth it though. A good mold will last for an infinite number of parts. Gweenz posted:*edit* Here is my "finished" product, though it still needs a little filling, sanding, painting, etc. Not bad, but a tad raised edges to keep the foam in place would probably be useful. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 10:21 on Jun 3, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2012 17:04
|
|
|
I did a thing. I figure if I paid for a bluetooth headset for tunes I might as make it so that I can actually hear the stupid thing. Taking bets on how long until I break and chuck the M4 back on.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2012 08:39
|
|
|
2ndclasscitizen posted:I did a thing. I reaffirm my love of stock exhausts every time a cop cuts me a break cause my poo poo is stock.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2012 17:45
|
|
|
Tamir Lenk posted:GEAUX TIGERS! Not an LSU fan by any means, but that is neato. So I have been doing some minor work on the EX500, changed the oil and filter, spark plugs and got K&N air filters for this one and for my R6 as well. I noticed that there are a lot of little things that need some attention, some of which are to be expected on a '98 I suppose. Some of the rubber hoses look pretty old, some definitely have some wear. I had to disconnect the air intake to get to the spark plugs, and there was a decent amount of engine oil on the left side, which is the side that had a lot more cosmetic damage so I'm assuming that's a result of being on it's side so much. I'm a newbie, so I don't really know how far I'm going to have to dig to get that cleaned up. I cleaned up a little bit of the underside after replacing the oil plug, and it seems like with some TLC this bike could be back in really good condition again. It's only got 13k miles on it, it's probably got a long life ahead of it if I can learn how to take care of it right.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2012 22:30
|
|
|
I've read about the HD clutch adjustment process from dozens of sources, nearly all of them WRONG. Wasn't until I found a Brit to properly explain it (via the highly entertaining Delboy's Garage series on the tube) that I fully understood what the deal was. If you have a Sporty, I highly recommend checking it out. http://www.youtube.com/results?sear...0.0.pY9wePJ8LbY Neutral was beginning to get hard to find, the friction zone was getting unpredictable, shifting was occasionally a struggle, and after slapping it into the pavement, it would barely shift at all. It was, ahem, long overdue. Swapped in some fresh HD Sport Trans (TM) fluid (now out of production  ), checked the primary chain tension, adjusted freeplay, buttoned it back up, and went on a shakedown cruise. Not too shabby, guvnah. Still have about 10-15mph worth of trust issues in the turns. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 02:49
|
|
|
Replaced the petcock. Decent job. Changed the oil. Valves and chain were adjusted weeks ago. Time for some guilt free motoring!
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 03:52
|
|
|
Tamir Lenk posted:So, back at you on this. West Marine has the best deals/selection for an auto parts-ish type store. Autozone and Advance might have some stuff. Napa has some stuff. Boat stores are probably your best local bet though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 14:59
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:West Marine has the best deals/selection for an auto parts-ish type store. Boat stores is a good bet. They'll have everything needed, but they often charge a bit too much. I've had good luck with smashing deals on molding wax, resin, carbon and glass fiber cloth at farm supply stores. Don't know what farmers use that poo poo for, but apparently they do. They also seem to be a tad more price-sensitive audience than the boat-people.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 15:21
|
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:Boat stores is a good bet. They'll have everything needed, but they often charge a bit too much. This is true. Add "marine" to the name of something and the price is sure to double. I have to admit that the West Marine fiberglass system is an excellent product though. resins are good, they come with pumps, and their cloth is top notch. I'll have to go check out TSC and see if they have anything comparable.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 15:52
|
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:Don't be too thankful just yet. Tamir Lenks mold is sexy, but will implode as soon as it meets resin. It's usable though, but not in its current form. I covered the mold in tape and wax before the resin and glass work. The foam held up to the resin, but I suck at glassing. As soon as a began, I knew things were hosed. My pre-cut pieces were way too big, and my glassing kept wrinkling, my resin was sloppy and the whole thing ended up being trash.  So I tossed the first attempt and made a new form to start over. Knocking out the second form was faster and easier than the first one, now that I have better sense of how that stuff works with sanding sponges -- i.e., a rough/medium sanding sponge will rape the face off that foam. So it's pretty fast and easy to mark the shape with a Sharpie, rough cut it with the hot foam cutter, then sand it down to the line. Then you can sand off the corners to round them, Foam cutter BTW is:  Here's the new seat form with tape and wax.    Will pick up more cloth and mat, and try again with much smaller pieces and a slightly better sense of how to work with that resin. I am sure that after about 17 more tries, I'll come up with something presentable.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 16:24
|
|
|
Tamir Lenk posted:I am sure that after about 17 more tries, I'll come up with something presentable. I'm pretty confident that this or the next try will be sufficient. It's looking pretty good so far.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 17:04
|
|
|
Well the second round of glassing was much better.    Just a few gently caress-ups that should Bondo out to finish it. Now just need to sort out the seat pad and covering, and a cool tail-light.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2012 18:21
|
|
|
Today I: 1) Rode my bike for distances longer than a mile and holy poo poo does it feel amazing. 2) Register my bike 3) Failed inspection, godammed blinkers and stop light  4) I dropped my bike because I am an idiot 
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2012 20:17
|
|
|
Started tracking the mpgs on the WRX. 30 minutes highway, 30 minutes 1st and 2nd gear in the dirt, 30 minutes practicing wheelies in a lot and a mix of in town-riding = 62.2 mpg. God I love this bike.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2012 12:42
|
|
|
Gnaghi posted:Started tracking the mpgs on the WRX. 30 minutes highway, 30 minutes 1st and 2nd gear in the dirt, 30 minutes practicing wheelies in a lot and a mix of in town-riding = 62.2 mpg. God I love this bike. How are you tracking mpgs? I've been resetting my trip gauge every gas up for a rough average mpg on the ninja 250 and I'm getting somewhere on the low side of 50 - 60 mpg. My guess is the main reason for this is high winds in the area.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2012 15:30
|
|
|
Search used bikes for WR, came across this Yamaha WR426. I like how the hand guards are angled downwards so your hands are comfortable when monowheel commuting.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2012 18:35
|
|
|
Excavated that foam from the new seat pan. Then trimmed the excess glass and started doing the Bondo work to smooth out the surface. Without a mold, there was a lot more Bondo and sanding than I expected, but it was not too bad. Did a mist coat of primer to flag any touch ups to sand and fill with some glazing putty, but this one will be a keeper. Will add more pics tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2012 20:16
|
|
|
Tamir Lenk posted:Well the second round of glassing was much better. Brilliant work. I told you, you'd get the hang of it fast.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2012 21:43
|
|
|
After plenty of bondo work and sanding, I have a couple coats of primer on the pan.  The surface smoothed out nicely with some 400 grit. Still one or two small chips/dings that I missed when I swept the pan with glazing putty, but I am moving forward with seat padding and vinyl now, and figuring out a good tail-light. That was a pretty fun little project, and I still have a lot of foam left . . .
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2012 18:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 04:25 |
|
|
For foam molds and shaping there's a blue foam we used for form studies and design mock ups back when I was at uni. It's really fine grained, it cuts and sands very well (though i imagine the airborne sanded bits are toxic as poo poo and ill be coughing them up for years yet). Unfortunately I've no idea what its called or where you would get it these days, a Google on foam and design and a few other terms should get you something pretty good.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2012 00:00
|
|
