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Insane Totoro posted:That's not soapscum, that's the old caulking from before. Running down the side of the tub?
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Jun 4, 2012 20:27
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Splizwarf posted:Running down the side of the tub? Yup. The landlord redid the tiles and did a lovely job.
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Jun 4, 2012 20:27
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How do you get caulk to be that runny? Solvent?  Reminds me of my last four landlords, sorry man. 
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Jun 4, 2012 20:32
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Well I just measured a few things on the ac... The air coming through the ac vents is around 65 degrees. The copper tubing out of the unit is cold to the touch with condensate (measuring about 65 degrees). The exhaust from the outside unit is 115 degrees. I noticed some grass clippings on the bottom inch of the radiator looking thing for the outer ac unit. So really it all seems to be working fine...guess its just really poorly insulated?
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Jun 4, 2012 20:42
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nwin posted:Well I just measured a few things on the ac... Home air conditioning units typically cool the air around 15 - 20 degrees colder than the ambient temperature. In addition, air conditioners also expend some energy removing humidity from the air, so if you live in a hot and humid climate (like me - Florida), in the summertime your A/C equipment will really be put to the test. If your house is poorly insulated or drafty, your A/C will be on all the time. On a 95-degree day with high humidity, it's going to be a struggle to maintain your house at 76 -78 degrees (my preferred setting). If your house is well-insulated, however, it won't heat up from the ambient temperature as quickly and your A/C won't have to run all the time. Keep in mind that over time, the cooling fins on your air conditioning unit will perform worse - the copper will oxidize (and maybe even flake off), making it more difficult to transfer the heat to the outside air. So if you have older equipment, it may also be harder to cool your house. EDIT: I just re-read your earlier post. I think you'd be better off if you kept your thermostat between 76 and 78, all the time - rather than cranking it down to 71 when you get home and back up to 79 when you wake up. To me, 71 is really cool and I can't imagine how chilly 68 must feel at night. King of the Cows fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Jun 4, 2012 |
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Jun 4, 2012 21:25
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I just realized that I came to this thread to ask a question, but got distracted by nwin's air conditioning problems. Anyway, my question is about LED lighting - I have really high ceilings with recessed flood lights. One of the bulbs recently burned out and I've been thinking about replacing it with an LED bulb (and then, doing the same as other bulbs burn out). I go to my local big home improvement store, and LED floodlights cost between $30 and $45 apiece! That's a lot of money to sink into a light bulb, even though I know it will save me money on my electric bill. I guess I'm just looking for a little insight - do these things really last as long as advertised? Is there some place I can get them cheaper than Lowes or Home Depot? I feel like the advantages of CFL bulbs were exaggerated, as they never lasted as long as advertised when I started using them a few years ago - and as a consequence, I went back to incandescents. I just don't want to throw (a lot more) money down the toilet on light bulbs.
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Jun 4, 2012 21:37
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I'm almost tempted to go to LED lights to replace my kitchen floodlights just to get away from the ridiculous heat that comes off of them.
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Jun 4, 2012 21:52
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My wife and I bought a little house in Ottawa. We got some money off the purchase price to replace the ancient device that resembles an air conditioner, but I'm not sure what to replace it with. The salesman I like really likes Trane. He says this spinal fin one-piece technology is the poo poo. I like the 10 year warranty, but it only qualifies for $150 rebate from Ontario because it isn't efficient enough. The model is XR15. Carrier is running a deal on infinity now, so I could get a 2.0 ton carrier infinity for about $300 more. I'm wondering if it would be worthwhile. It's more efficient and has a 2 stage compressor. The other quote I got that was sort of OK is on a Tier 2 York, but that guy is a thief. He tried to sell me a Goodaire AC series filter for $951 and I found it on the internet for $230. I'm pretty sure it's just a filter box.... what the hell.
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Jun 4, 2012 23:01
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Splizwarf posted:How do you get caulk to be that runny? Solvent? Well it was preferable to having the collapsed bathtub wall.
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Jun 4, 2012 23:55
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Okay, so we're sidled with an apartment next to the train tracks (my fiancee and son). I've actually lived a few places before where I've had to deal with trains passing by. It's never been a problem, and I've gotten used to them within months, even weeks. However, when we were looking at this apartment, the landlord conveniently forgot to mention that the trains are required to blast their earfuck-whistle whenever they go by. The highest density of train traffic is around noon (when my son naps) and from 7:00 PM until maybe 10:30 (my son goes to bed around 7:00). So the problem here is that, even after a year, my son isn't used to the whistles and still wakes up. This is a stupid, lovely, psychosis-inducing problem in and of itself, but it also doesn't help with the night-weaning from the breasticles and the sleeping through the night thing. So my fiancee and I have had enough. Security deposit be damned, I am going to soundproof the poo poo out of the windows and the wall. At the same time, I'd like to be able to open the windows and also let light in. I'm thinking some sort of ingenious contraption involving heavy sound dampening fabric that spans the whole wall but is movable, and maybe some foam blocks in the windows too, ones that can easily slide in and out and rest in between the panes and screens? Or maybe train whistles not an easy frequency to block out? Should this question go in its own thread? Any advice at all is appreciated. We're ready to go hunt down friendly train conductors and shove their whistles up their asses.
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Jun 5, 2012 03:28
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I got some window screen kits like these, and put one together over the weekend. It went without too much trouble, but when I went to put it in the window, the vertical pieces were significantly bowed inwards, about a half inch on each side. Did I hose up the assembly or is this just the nature of these things? Nothing was bent that I could see, it's just not plumb. Is there something else I should use to make screens for my ancient single hungs?ElectroSpecter posted:Any advice at all is appreciated. Move.
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Jun 5, 2012 07:26
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stubblyhead posted:Move. Yes, that would be the most obvious solution...  Unfortunately not an option. I probably should have mentioned that.
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Jun 5, 2012 10:52
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Why? That kid's steadily accumulating damage, and no amount of soundproofing is going to be enough to stop it. Some places are just not good to raise a family.
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Jun 5, 2012 12:54
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Maybe tell the landlord the exact scenario and if he won't let you out of your lease early without a fee maybe you can negotiate him to half it.
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Jun 5, 2012 12:55
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You lived there for a year and didn't leave? Is your lease not on a year to year basis?
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Jun 5, 2012 13:31
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Sound-proofing isn't that simple or cheap. Your best bet is ear protection like this: (not an endorsement, just the first thing that came up on google)
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Jun 5, 2012 16:44
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We really just don't have the money or resources to move right now. Apartments around here are stupidly expensive, and many of them want two months up front and all that sort of crap. Our landlord would let us out of our lease at this point (it turned from a year lease to a month-to-month lease after a year) but there's nowhere feasible to move TO. Also, our security deposit for our current apartment was like $400, so it wouldn't really help in terms of using it for another deposit. And plus we can't wait the month or so for them to check the apartment and give the deposit back. It is a truly lovely situation. The headphones might work, but our son hates anything on his head and I'll bet he will not leave them on. ElectroSpecter fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Jun 5, 2012 |
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Jun 5, 2012 17:18
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I imagine a lot of the sound comes through the window, if you block that off with some sort of sound proofing it will help a lot. It will also probably help to have a rather loud fan/white noise of some sort.
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Jun 5, 2012 19:49
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Proper sound "proofing" is prohibitively expensive. structures are usually built specifically for that purpose. sound "dampening" is possible, but won't do much in your case. Sorry bud.
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Jun 5, 2012 20:28
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Part of the trouble is that a given material can usually only damp/proof against a very small section of the spectrum; as I understand it, usually good soundproofing can only be done with a lot of layers of different substances and consistencies. Even then, nothing really stops bass frequencies. If you do pursue it, expect to lose about a foot in from each exterior wall. 
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Jun 5, 2012 21:00
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At this point, you might as well use soundproofing materials to construct a fort in the middle of each room where you can hide when the train comes. I think there are some deeper issues at heart here regarding a need for a geographic move and maybe even a change in employment. Unless you have some significant ties in that area, it really just might be the time to have a heart to heart and talk about these issues. Insane Totoro fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Jun 5, 2012 |
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Jun 5, 2012 21:30
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Splizwarf posted:Part of the trouble is that a given material can usually only damp/proof against a very small section of the spectrum; as I understand it, usually good soundproofing can only be done with a lot of layers of different substances and consistencies. Even then, nothing really stops bass frequencies. If you do pursue it, expect to lose about a foot in from each exterior wall. Eh it basically falls into low and high frequency categories, there's considerable overlap in the middle depending on what you do. High density materials stop highs while low density materials stop lows (which is why when a car pulls up next to you at a stoplight you can hear the sub just fine but you cant really make out the trebly part of the sound). So in reality air is one of the best insulators for bass (other than a vacuum), which as a bass player confounds me because I have to be way louder than everyone to be audible. So at the very least you need two layers to even approach decent sound proofing. I know some people that own a recording studio in my town and they built it with seven layers of quiet-rock sheetrock with low density sound absorbing caulk in between each layer, then a 8 inch air gap then two layers of brick and then air gap then concrete blocks. The studio is 60 feet from a major throroghfare and even then, when they are in the studio they can still hear firetrucks go by when their sirens are blaring, however at that point you can only barely tell they are there if you are sitting in silence. Also they spent in excess of $1 million for a space the size of a small studio apartment. So, ElectroSpector, I'm not normally the type to suggest you just say gently caress it when it comes to DIY projects but unfortunately the physics of sound proofing dictates that unless you can custom build a space then you will not get great results. Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Jun 5, 2012 |
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Jun 5, 2012 21:44
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King of the Cows posted:Home air conditioning units typically cool the air around 15 - 20 degrees colder than the ambient temperature. In addition, air conditioners also expend some energy removing humidity from the air, so if you live in a hot and humid climate (like me - Florida), in the summertime your A/C equipment will really be put to the test. Update: last night the thermostat said 78, set for 74. I left it there and when I got up this morning I decided to leave it at 74 to see if it could maintain it. Nope, just got home and the temp is 79. High was 98 today I believe...I'm guessing I'm just hosed in terms of getting it to stay below 79 during the day in this house? I mean, based on what you said about 15-20 degrees...when it's 105 outside, the most I can get it to here should be 85? That sucks. I guess I just compare it with my office which can stay at 70 year round.
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Jun 5, 2012 22:24
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Splizwarf posted:It takes a lot more power to bring it down over and over than it does to maintain. You're burning a lot of cash. Your AC is working as expected in weather like that. Look at how wrong you are: http://www.energysavers.gov/tips/heating_cooling.cfm
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Jun 6, 2012 05:38
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greenman100 posted:Look at how wrong you are: No need to be a dick about it. Can you quote out specifically what you're getting at? I'm not seeing it. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 13:16 on Jun 6, 2012 |
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Jun 6, 2012 13:13
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Splizwarf posted:Can you quote out specifically what you're getting at? I'm not seeing it. I don't know exactly what greenman is referring to, but in the thermostat section, there's this blurb: "You can save as much as 10% a year on heating and cooling by simply turning your thermostat back 7°-10°F for 8 hours a day from where you would normally set. (If you have a heat pump, don't do this without a programmable thermostat). You can do this automatically by using a programmable thermostat and scheduling the times you turn on the heating or air conditioning. As a result, the equipment doesn't operate as much when you are asleep or not at home. Programmable thermostats can store multiple daily settings (six or more temperature settings a day) that you can manually override without affecting the rest of the daily or weekly program."
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Jun 6, 2012 15:16
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Splizwarf posted:No need to be a dick about it. First, there are a few facts to recognize: 1.) An air conditioner is a heat pump, its that simple. There's no such thing as "working hard" or not - when the compressor is running, it is moving heat outside, at a constant rate while it is running. (This is a simplification, actually HVAC units are most efficient when running on high, here's a sample datasheet. Look at the coefficient of performance - "COP": http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/attachment.php?s=fcb497630e5b1a00f3da7013be170497&attachmentid=257361&d=1334712132 2.) Heat moves inside proportional to the delta T between inside and outside. If (2) is the case, then while the HVAC is off, the house warms up, and less heat is transferred into the house, since the delta T is decreasing in time. Thus, over a period of time, since less heat has transferred into the house, less heat has to transfer back out. Further helping the cause is the fact that AC units transfer heat best (per kW used) when running on high. http://www.rodale.com/efficient-air-conditioner-use?page=0,1
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Jun 6, 2012 16:02
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I have a Frigidaire stove/oven model # FEF336ECE that over heats (I posted about this some while back). The thermostat tested good, as did the element. I wanted to test and possibly replace the relays, but that doesn't seem to be possible. The relays seem pretty well stuck on the board, and the board doesn't even seem to be removable from its housing. The housing with the buttons and the board seem to be a single replaceable part. Sears sells it for $86. Is it reasonable for me to replace this part as the next course of action? Anyone know of a place it may be had for cheaper?? Here are some fun pics: http://imgur.com/a/KcTNK
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Jun 6, 2012 23:00
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Associate Christ
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Kaluza-Klein posted:I have a Frigidaire stove/oven model # FEF336ECE that over heats (I posted about this some while back). The thermostat tested good, as did the element. Looks like the board is held in by plastic snaps around the edge. I don't see why you can't pull it out and de-solder the relays. You might have to use a bit of force which can be scary with delicate electronics. If you are wary of forcing it you could use a dremel tool to grind the snaps off and then just jb-kwik the board back in place when you are done.
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Jun 6, 2012 23:37
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What is JB Weld actually good for? I tried to use it on a '96 Saturn with a trunk that wouldn't latch. The latch mechanism was bolted to some sheet metal in the trunk lid, but there were inch-long stress cracks in the metal on either side of the mechanism. This let the mechanism bend away from the metal loop on the floor of the trunk and prevented it from latching. I put JB weld on both cracks, making sure some actually got into the crack. I wedged a bolt behind the latch to push it back to the correct position and let it dry for 15 hours like the package said. The trunk worked a few times but then the JB Weld cracked and the latch bent away from the loop again. Would letting it cure longer have helped, or is there something else I could have used aside from actually welding it? I ended up wedging a rubber stopper behind the mechanism and supergluing it in place and that's been working so far.
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Jun 6, 2012 23:52
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JB Weld works wonders if used correctly. I can't say why it didn't work for you without seeing what you did, but I've used it to fix hairline fractures in transmission cases on motorcycles before. JB Weld should be cured at least 24 hours. I dont know what the box says is the minimum but it continues to harden for a few days. JB Kwik on the other hand really shouldn't be used except to hold small or lightweight things in place, I rarely use it for anything that has any amount of force on it. Its basically glorified super glue, except physically more substantial in terms of surface area and whatnot. Sometimes superglue is not viscous enough or I need a big glob of adhesive and I use JB Kwik.
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Jun 7, 2012 05:47
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Cosmik Debris posted:JB Weld works wonders if used correctly. I can't say why it didn't work for you without seeing what you did, but I've used it to fix hairline fractures in transmission cases on motorcycles before. Would a fracture in a transmission case have a lot of shear force on it?. For this application, every time the trunk lid opened or closed the cracks were being stressed. Maybe if this comes up again I'll try leaving it alone for a few days to see if the extra hardening helps. There's very little on their website in terms of usage instructions so I don't know what I could have done differently. I was definitely using JB Weld though, not JB Kwik. I even sanded the metal around the cracks before applying it.
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Jun 7, 2012 06:41
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Is it actually possible to finish a half-rear end wall put up just to a drop ceiling/suspended ceiling, to sound and weather insulate? The space next door's noises are not the slightest bit attenuated by celing tiles. (And also why are drop ceiling used across separate Units? kapalama fucked around with this message at 12:34 on Jun 7, 2012 |
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Jun 7, 2012 12:30
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EVERYTHING I SAY ABOUT JAPAN OR LIVING IN JAPAN IS COMPLETELY WRONG, BUT YOU BETTER BELIEVE I'LL 
ABOUT IT.
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King Nothing posted:Would a fracture in a transmission case have a lot of shear force on it?. For this application, every time the trunk lid opened or closed the cracks were being stressed. Maybe if this comes up again I'll try leaving it alone for a few days to see if the extra hardening helps. There's very little on their website in terms of usage instructions so I don't know what I could have done differently. I was definitely using JB Weld though, not JB Kwik. I even sanded the metal around the cracks before applying it. What grit sand paper did you use? You might have over sanded. You were right to clean the surfaces, that's very important to ensure proper adhesion, but it might seem counterintuitive that it is actually better to use a very course sand paper so that there are lots of bumps and fissures for the epoxy to work its way into. If your surface is smooth as glass there's nothing for it to grip to and the bond is weak. You might even want to take another piece of metal and score and scratch the surface after you sand it. A transmission case actually has a lot of dynamic forces on it due to the constant cycles of expansion and compression of the metal from the heat generated by the engine. Unless you use something that can handle high-temperatures and bond well it's going to just larger and larger until it breaks completely. Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Jun 7, 2012 |
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Jun 7, 2012 14:30
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Cosmik Debris posted:What grit sand paper did you use? You might have over sanded. You were right to clean the surfaces, that's very important to ensure proper adhesion, but it might seem counterintuitive that it is actually better to use a very course sand paper so that there are lots of cracks and fissures for the epoxy to work its way into. If your surface is smooth as glass there's nothing for it to grip to and the bond is weak. I used 60 grit.
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Jun 7, 2012 14:33
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Well sounds like you did everything right then. Guess it's just not suited for that application.
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Jun 7, 2012 14:36
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I want to hang this shelf in my kitchen to hold all my pots and pans:  My pots and pans weigh just over 80 pounds. Ideally, About thirty pounds will sit on the shelf proper and fifty pounds will be hanging off the rail farthest from the wall. I measured out the studs in my wall and unfortunately the shelf comes about an inch short. If I screw one side of the shelf into studs and use drywall anchors on the other side, will my shelf come crashing down?
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Jun 7, 2012 21:40
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Yes.
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Jun 7, 2012 22:10
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Stalizard posted:I want to hang this shelf in my kitchen to hold all my pots and pans: I took each bar provided, half screwed in a screw, used crowbar to pry out the end cap, then cut to length with a hacksaw before replacing the end cap to make sure I hit a stud on both sides. Holds my towels just fine.
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Jun 7, 2012 22:31
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sund posted:I took each bar provided, half screwed in a screw, used crowbar to pry out the end cap, then cut to length with a hacksaw before replacing the end cap to make sure I hit a stud on both sides. Holds my towels just fine. Conversely, you could mount it on 2-inch wide footers.
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Jun 7, 2012 22:39
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