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surc posted:I figure the people who'd be interested probably already know, but go game guru is starting a deal where they'll stream BadukTV. For a month, they're running it off BadukTV's stream for free, before switching to their higher quality setup and charging. I got the video on demand service. Right now there are two groups of videos they've added. The first is some reviews of recent tournament games (BC Card and Female Kuksu), and its a cool setup. The two presenters sit at the board like they were actually playing the game and go over it. Its not too hard to understand. The second group is kind of shittier. They use some virtual client to place the stones. Its literally like watching a game on KGS, with mouse pointer and everything. In fact, I'm 99% sure they use the KGS stone sound. With nobody gesturing at the board, its a lot harder to understand what the commentary is.
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Apr 26, 2012 03:00
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Does anyone know where to get a semi-nice, thick table board that is sized properly for single convex yunzi stones? YMI says in their product description for the single convex that they won't fit on Japanese sized boards. Is this true? I like the flat sided stones for playing out possible move chains upside down in after game discussion, plus the tables where I play Go with a group are too wobbly for double convex stones. Does the board size actually make a big difference?
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May 1, 2012 20:18
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DragQueenofAngmar posted:Does anyone know where to get a semi-nice, thick table board that is sized properly for single convex yunzi stones? YMI says in their product description for the single convex that they won't fit on Japanese sized boards. Is this true? I like the flat sided stones for playing out possible move chains upside down in after game discussion, plus the tables where I play Go with a group are too wobbly for double convex stones. Does the board size actually make a big difference? It's a pain in the rear end, since if you have chinese stones on a japanese board you can only line 17 or 18 up. All of YMI's boards are chinese sized, though, and I think as a rule most other boards you find are too; if one is japanese sized it will say so specifically or it will be easy to figure out.
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May 2, 2012 00:04
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Under 15 posted:It's a pain in the rear end, since if you have chinese stones on a japanese board you can only line 17 or 18 up. All of YMI's boards are chinese sized, though, and I think as a rule most other boards you find are too; if one is japanese sized it will say so specifically or it will be easy to figure out. Yeah, the bamboo composite board I have from ymi says it works with both kinds of stones which I assume means chinese sized because those are bigger (right?). I was looking for something kind of like this http://www.ymimports.com/p-854-shin-kaya-24-go-board-japanese-standard-size.aspx except this one says it is japanese sized. I like the composite bamboo coloring and texture but the grid is screen printed and the corners are noticeably bent in each one. So I want a board that's a bit more traditional with hand painted straight lines (I know, I'm  ) It's not urgent or anything, just something I want to look into. Are most thick table boards going to be japanese sized like that?
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May 2, 2012 00:19
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So I've noticed that GoShrine has a 3d bot. At my level it's hard to see any weakness in its playing, save for some odd timings on tenuki, but whatever it lacks in that department it totally destroys in its ability to kill groups. Its global strategy is also good. Just playing it repeatedly I feel like I'm learning at lot since it's so merciless.
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May 2, 2012 18:52
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What's the best way to learn about invasions? I often see higher ranked players play right in the middle of an opponents large framework with very little space to live, but usually when I try this, I can't live (unless my opponent is really bad). Also, does anybody have any experience with making a (floor) go table? I really want a big one, but there's no way I could afford one.
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May 14, 2012 07:34
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Depends on your rank; but Attack And Defense by Ishida and Davies is the entry level text on this subject, pretty essential reading for anyone weaker than 1d. It's not just a simple matter of "invading", there has to be a rationale behind it - are you behind in points, are you trying to threaten/split two weak groups, etc? Generally when invading you want to play light and loose shapes that allow you break away; the object here is usually to reduce, not gain territory. A lot of weak players invade and then try to live small, usually to their demise.
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May 14, 2012 10:11
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Is there any harm to playing 13x13 instead of 19x19 when you're just starting out? 13x13 is so much faster that I can play a lot more games, which I'd imagine is better unless there's a huge strategy difference when you move up to 19x19. I'm also going to be playing baduk but all the internet guides are about Japanese go, are there any rule differences?
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May 14, 2012 10:16
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Grand Fromage posted:Is there any harm to playing 13x13 instead of 19x19 when you're just starting out? 13x13 is so much faster that I can play a lot more games, which I'd imagine is better unless there's a huge strategy difference when you move up to 19x19. I've only been playing for two months, so I'm also pretty much just starting out. I was told to play on smaller boards in the beginning, and I did try a few games like that. In my opinion, it's very different from 19x19. I thought that smaller boards took away too much from the game. I'm only 10 kyu, so don't trust my opinion too much, just try it out and see how it feels for yourself. As for the rules, I'm pretty sure Korea uses Japanese rules. The other major ruleset is Chinese, however, most games I've seen online have been played using Japanese rules, so you'll probably be fine with the Japanese go guides.
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May 14, 2012 10:50
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Raii posted:As for the rules, I'm pretty sure Korea uses Japanese rules. Isn't the counting at the end slightly different (Sensei's library mentions a difference based on counting ko threats)? It's not something an early beginner really has to worry about too much if they understand, say, Japanese rules.
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May 14, 2012 13:40
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Grand Fromage posted:Is there any harm to playing 13x13 instead of 19x19 when you're just starting out? 13x13 is so much faster that I can play a lot more games, which I'd imagine is better unless there's a huge strategy difference when you move up to 19x19. There's no harm to 13x13 per se, but if you're playing on KGS only 19x19 can be played for rank. If you are playing unranked at low levels you are going to have the worst quality of opponent that KGS has to offer and you'll be more likely to quit go out of frustration. Your core idea of playing a lot of games is solid, however. If you play a lot, your rank will start to rise steadily after a few weeks of getting mad and fumbling around. There are a bunch of rulesets out there, but for the most part they only differ in counting the score at the end of the game. In ordinary circumstances the scores will match, but there are some scenarios where they differ by a point, and that's important in competitive play. Under Japanese rules, you count the spaces you surround and the stones you have captured, which makes it quick to count but can sometimes lead to disagreements over the status of groups and whether additional moves must be made to kill a dead group. Under Chinese rules, you count the area you surround plus the stones you have on the board, but not the prisoners you captured, so if there is a dispute about the status of a group you can just play it out. It's not as popular, though, because it's harder to count up; the numbers are higher and it's harder to estimate the score in an unfinished game using Chinese rules as opposed to Japanese. Other rule sets do some weird stuff, like New Zealand rules which allow suicide plays (less useful than you'd think, but occasionally game-changing) and AGA rules, where you give your opponent a prisoner every time you pass, or the superko rule, where you aren't allowed to repeat a full-board position more than a few times, to prevent triple ko deadlocks. 99% of all rules controversies though are in tournaments using Japanese rules where the game is over and it's not quite clear whether someone has to play once more inside their territory or not, and they go through a lot of arcane rules bullshit and soul-searching and face-saving or whatever. If you're playing online and someone really digs in their heels, as happened to me once, you can taunt them and make them really loving mad about it because honestly who cares. My opponent had a hilarious meltdown, got banned, and the game was entered in for me as a win. Under 15 fucked around with this message at 19:11 on May 14, 2012 |
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May 14, 2012 19:08
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Under 15 posted:My opponent had a hilarious meltdown, got banned, and the game was entered in for me as a win. If you can pull this off, you should get the rank boost equivalent of five wins for true Go excellence
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May 14, 2012 22:39
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oiseaux morts 1994 posted:If you can pull this off, you should get the rank boost equivalent of five wins for true Go excellence http://files.gokgs.com/games/2010/10/19/Helsbecter-BANKER.sgf The game tree goes wild at the end when he refuses to accept the score and hits undo for like a half hour
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May 16, 2012 00:02
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 Hey I just found the perfect avatar for you guys. By the way, why is Cho Chikun so awesome?
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May 16, 2012 05:26
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Symbolic Butt posted:
It's all the time he spends in the dryer, powering up
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May 16, 2012 20:19
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Under 15 posted:http://files.gokgs.com/games/2010/10/19/Helsbecter-BANKER.sgf His desperation is palpable; the best feeling
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May 16, 2012 22:39
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Getting into this; if anyone could add me to ITGO it would be much appreciated. (user: ilsantino)
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May 29, 2012 11:48
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You've been added to the ITGO access list, Greatest Living Man. If no one is on just try a different time.
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May 30, 2012 06:46
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I too would like to be added to ITGO (name: SLJeremy) I learned the rules a long time ago, but didn't really ever play. I've now decided to be more deliberate about learning to play well and sticking with it.
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May 31, 2012 18:23
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I've been around here a while ago but stopped playing for some reason. I think I have played around 50 games in total and I'm ranked 11k? right now. This game is mistifying because I mostly click around randomly trying to make my stones line up neatly and still manage to beat people. Winning but not having a slightest clue why I won or what my opponent did wrong is the best thing. edit: 9k? because my opponent resigned before even playing
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May 31, 2012 20:16
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IMlemon posted:I've been around here a while ago but stopped playing for some reason. I think I have played around 50 games in total and I'm ranked 11k? right now. This game is mistifying because I mostly click around randomly trying to make my stones line up neatly and still manage to beat people. Now would would be a really good time to read "Attack and Defense"
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May 31, 2012 20:20
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oiseaux morts 1994 posted:Now would would be a really good time to read "Attack and Defense" That book is really hard and I won't be touching it for quite a while I think. I'm currently struggling with Lessons in fundamentals by Kageyama. Apparently it's the norm to calculate 20+ move netting sequences 
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Jun 1, 2012 13:31
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From the big 3 (Lessons in Fundamentals, Attack and Defense and Tesuji) it feels to me that Tesuji is the most accessible one. I think I read like half of it!  just saying, baduk books are hard to read
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Jun 1, 2012 14:13
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IMlemon posted:That book is really hard and I won't be touching it for quite a while I think. I'm currently struggling with Lessons in fundamentals by Kageyama. Apparently it's the norm to calculate 20+ move netting sequences Lessons in Fundamentals is really a low-kyu book, in preparation for shodan. Attack and Defense is more like 10k. Tesuji's maybe even easier - it shows you patterns you can immediately put to use in your games. If there's anything in the books you don't understand, post them here! We'd be happy to help you.
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Jun 7, 2012 13:02
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I keep losing on time even when I'm winning a game because I'm not looking at the right side of my monitor and I don't notice my time blinking. Last night I had a game against this russian dude. It was going pretty bad, until he thought he found a genius move which captured a bunch of my stones. Turns out, that move killed his own giant group and gave me a hundred points. Did he resign? No way, instead, he had an amazing victory. I lost on time. 
sunaurus fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Jun 7, 2012 |
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Jun 7, 2012 13:02
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I would suggest cutting your games down to about 10-12minutes.
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Jun 7, 2012 13:28
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Raii posted:I keep losing on time even when I'm winning a game because I'm not looking at the right side of my monitor and I don't notice my time blinking. Turn your sound on, watch the clock.
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Jun 7, 2012 18:36
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Raii posted:I keep losing on time even when I'm winning a game because I'm not looking at the right side of my monitor and I don't notice my time blinking. If you play on tygem you can get a verbal byoyomi countdown - too bad tygem ranks below about 3-4k are a total shitshow
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Jun 7, 2012 19:34
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Anybody have any good recommendation for resources about playing on the first and second lines? There's so much tricky poo poo that goes on there, and I'd love to find a good survey of things to look out for. I'm 11k KGS.
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Jun 8, 2012 01:30
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Tesuji is definitely one of those books. I still pick it off the shelf, regularly. For 1st and 2nd line situations, it depends. Are you talking about sente moves, attacking moves, connecting moves, eye-stealing moves, sacrifices to make life or gain tempo? Sorry to be obtuse, but the meaning of moves, as much as that means anything, relates to the local situation and wider. Also, remember that strange things happen in the corner. Apart from the usual life and death problems and '38 basic joseki' recommendations, it might be a good idea to review one of your own games. If you start with the endgame, look at how edge moves play out for points; which do black or white really have to answer and which can they ignore? Then look at situations where life and death is threatened, particularly say the two space extension on the third line with an enemy stone either side and how it develops. If you have a specific situation you'd like to investigate, message me on KGS where I play as impulse7.
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Jun 8, 2012 01:46
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Kickstarter for a new Go documentary. Even the Kickstarter trailer is a pretty engaging intro to the game, should probably go in the next OP.
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Jun 13, 2012 12:45
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Just won my 200th game (out of 339 played). This is the most loving fun game I've ever played. Been playing for 3 months, at the moment I'm one or two wins away from being 8 kyu. I've been getting a lot of help from goons, especially from elementc and Darceh. If anybody is thinking of trying this out, trust me, if you like strategy games at all, you'll love this. sunaurus fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Jun 14, 2012 |
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Jun 14, 2012 12:38
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Getting back into the go. Just wanted to add that this book was one I read last year and is probably one of the more engaging out there. Definitely get a feel that nearly everything in it is 'useful' - the sort of situations where you read it and say to yourself "I need to know that." It was pretty refreshing after coming away from the 'Golden Opportunities' and 'Punishing and correcting joseki mistakes' books; reading something with direct application for games from an author who is clearly eager to win games was great. 100 Tips for Amateur Players, vol.2 Author: Youngsun, Yoon Year: 2008 ISBN: 978-89-90079-59 http://www.slateandshell.com/SSYY204.html Caveat in that I haven't read the first one.
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Jun 15, 2012 19:39
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Here's a problem adapted from a game I was watching on KGS. Black to play. What can he get here?
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Jun 17, 2012 19:20
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u motherfucke
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Jun 17, 2012 19:44
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Prodigious posted:Here's a problem adapted from a game I was watching on KGS. Uh, i'm only 4k, and this took me like 20mins to figure out(?) but best I can find: B:N2 W:N3 (forced) B:M1 W:L2 (forced, unless ko where B takes first) B:O1 W:Q1 (O2 would lead to B:Q1 and a ko where white takes first) B:P4 (or Q3 whatevs) W:S1 B:Q3 (W can not play O2 now) W:L1 B:T2 W:N1 (starts ko, where white takes first, and black needs to ignore three threats to win, since he needs T1, R1 and then O2) Buffis fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Jun 17, 2012 |
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Jun 17, 2012 22:57
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I don't think N3 is forced because W can play N1 to connect up
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Jun 18, 2012 09:46
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oiseaux morts 1994 posted:I don't think N3 is forced because W can play N1 to connect up Uh, what do you mean W would play instead of N3? The sequences I'm thinking on where W plays N1 are: W:L1 B:N3 W:N1 B:O1 W:M1 (or ko) B:O2 (connects) Or: W:H2 B:N3 W:N1 B:O1 W:M1 B:O2 (connects) Unless I'm missing something
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Jun 18, 2012 18:05
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There's no way you could call that ko acceptable, so it seems like white should let the stones on the right go. If it goes b N2, w N3, black M1 w L2, it seems to me like black can play q1 and then it's not really clear how w is going to save the right side anyway, or anything at all. Seems more productive to have b N2, w L1, b O1, w H2, cause that is worth a few ko threats later. I imagine since it's prod though there is a good times tesuji I am not seeing
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Jun 20, 2012 18:21
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Under 15 posted:There's no way you could call that ko acceptable, so it seems like white should let the stones on the right go. If it goes b N2, w N3, black M1 w L2, it seems to me like black can play q1 and then it's not really clear how w is going to save the right side anyway, or anything at all. Seems more productive to have b N2, w L1, b O1, w H2, cause that is worth a few ko threats later. I imagine since it's prod though there is a good times tesuji I am not seeing What do you mean it's not clear how w will save the right after q1? w plays o1, black basically has to s1, then white o2 will live. After looking at it, I can't find any other solution besides ko. You can get a better one than the one buffis posted by playing s1 after w q1, which makes it 2-step and not 3.
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Jun 21, 2012 06:20
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