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Cowslips Warren posted:
Does she actually bite? My male has been doing the same thing for years, but it's always bluff. He has never bitten. He carries on in my hands when I remove him, then calms down a bit. If I put him down, he starts back up. He must have been a hissing cockroach in a past life. He has been a great ambassador for folks unfamiliar with snakes. Also, BigCentipede -- love the pics! That king is a champ. Let me know if you ever breed that rosy. Also are the gray geckos the gargoyles you've been mentioning? Horrible temptation to see those. Those colors and patterns are incredible. On the road two nights ago, I came across this rare fellow. Their known range is in only 3 counties in the US, all in AZ. Pima Saddled Leaf-nosed snake:     This is only the third I've seen, all on hot nights. I'm convinced it takes high desert heat to cook them to the surface at night. They're surprisingly stout-bodied for a small snake. More akin to a hog than, say a ringneck, worm or brown snake.
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Jun 13, 2012 05:07
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Bobbaganoosh posted:Does she actually bite? My male has been doing the same thing for years, but it's always bluff. He has never bitten. He carries on in my hands when I remove him, then calms down a bit. If I put him down, he starts back up. He must have been a hissing cockroach in a past life. Yeah man, they're gargs. I love them. The rosys are still pretty young, but I'll definitely hang onto some for you when they do breed. Something fun I'm working on, I'm trying to work out a trade with a guy for some Arabian sand boas, rubber boas, and some Kenyan sand boas. I'll post pics when it finally goes through.
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Jun 13, 2012 06:10
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^Wow thats a really cool looking snake. I would completely mistake that for a cornsnake from a top view, minus the head. Need a turtle ID here, its aquatic and was kept as a pet (somebody dropped it off at work) but I have no idea what he is. He is a uniform dark colour, pretty much blackish. I dont think he is a mud turtle the shell is definitely different and resembles more like a sliders with the scute patterns. But hes got no markings. Maybe 5-6 inches. Didnt look at his plastron. Ill take a picture next time if the description isn't enough
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Jun 13, 2012 06:15
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Malalol posted:^Wow thats a really cool looking snake. I would completely mistake that for a cornsnake from a top view, minus the head. If it sorta resembles a mud turtle, it might be some kind of musk turtle.
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Jun 13, 2012 07:15
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Gargoyles are the best. I only have 20-something, so I think I like them a little. 
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Jun 13, 2012 12:34
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Greycious posted:Gargoyles are the best. I only have 20-something, so I think I like them a little. So, how you doin'? I've always wanted a garg, and it seems you have an excess...  I also accept pictures of them being cute.
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Jun 13, 2012 19:52
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Trilineatus posted:So, how you doin'? I've always wanted a garg, and it seems you have an excess... Cute you say? How about some pictures of some of this years hatchlings?! Garg-smile!  Yellow eyeliner  Nice chubby freshly-hatched baby  Eye looking cool  Don't be shy, come on out! 
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Jun 13, 2012 22:00
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Greycious posted:Cute you say? How about some pictures of some of this years hatchlings?! Omg Do you breed for sale? They are so amazing. I love my crested and would love to expand into the less saturated markets.
Mocking Bird fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Jun 14, 2012 |
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Jun 13, 2012 23:37
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Trilineatus posted:Omg I like my gargs better than my cresties. They have a ton of personality.
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Jun 13, 2012 23:55
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Trilineatus, I PMed you a link..  Gargs are by far my favorite, over cresties, leachies, and chahoua. Mainly I just love their stoney/prehistoric look. They are definitely as a whole easier to handle than cresties, they tend to be less jumpy. And obviously more affordable than leachies and chewies. Chahoua are pretty awesome though.
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Jun 14, 2012 00:32
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Awesome. just had the first snake escape in like 10 years. This elderly old scarred LTC female Cal king, slipped out of her temporary cage. I'm sure she'll turn up though, so I'm not too worried, but my fiance' is going to give me poo poo in the morning for it.
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Jun 14, 2012 05:34
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Alright, before I toss a couple year-old snapping turtles out into the wild, I need some help to make sure I'm not doing more harm than good. I just moved into a new room, and my new roomies have been keeping a pair of snapping turtles in a dish by the sink. When I asked, they said they'd found them too weak to be in the wild so they brought them home. I didn't press the issue, thinking it was a recent thing and the matter would be dealt with within days. Since it's been a couple weeks, and the turtles are still there, I started asking questions. Apparently, A YEAR AGO, they watched the mother lay eggs near their yard, and when the eggs struggled to hatch they took it upon themselves to save two from the "terrors of the wild". I'm not trying to lecture them on what they did and why it wasn't the smartest idea, I'm just trying to either a) get the turtles back to the wild or b) give them better living conditions than a tupperware full of turtle sludge. They seem awake and alert, not particularly snappish though, and I'm particularly worried because their shells seem soft to the touch. There's a really good exotic animal vet in the area, so that's one avenue. Or will their shells harden if I just give them a larger tank with an area to get out and dry off in? Help!
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Jun 15, 2012 01:02
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Are they getting uvb or unfiltered sun light? metabolic bone disease is a baaad thing. 
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Jun 15, 2012 04:18
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I wouldn't release them back into the wild. If they've been in captivity long enough to develop done diseases, they've been in captivity long enough to pick up foreign pathogens and other issues that could be introduced into the wild population.
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Jun 15, 2012 04:31
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I got pictures of the turtle tonight. Doesnt look to be a musk turtle?   Also...crestitis? FK.  My guy.   new guy. hes got the cutest fringing on his toes.
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Jun 15, 2012 05:15
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Malalol posted:Are they getting uvb or unfiltered sun light? metabolic bone disease is a baaad thing.
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Jun 15, 2012 12:05
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Soft shells aren't a good thing, and young turtles absolutely need constant UVB and calcium supplementation in their first years of life, so they may be seriously ill and need to be put down. If not, you can do them a huge favor by buying a $6-15 UVB bulb (see recommended brands in the OP) and a $5-10 lamp fixture from Home Depot so that the little fellows can at least have some light while you or the negligent owners update the tank. Crestie photo dump! I just happened to have my girlfriend's camera on me when everyone was out and about last night. Calcifer, Hyper Tangerine Pinstripe/Dalmation, and the one to start the crestie acquisition train rolling. I didn't want to deal with spotting, but he's such a nice structural gecko and has such extreme coloring that I decided he'll be breeding for me once he's grown.   Crowley, Black/Cream Extreme Harley Pinstripe. I am in love with this gecko; he's a stunner. Not even fired up in these pics.   Bengali, Red/Orange Tiger. I brought her home along with another orange tiger at the January expo this year as a favor to my mentor. She's AC bred, lovely color, but her head is snipey and we hope to improve her babies' structure.   Fuzz, Hairy-Line Halloween Harley. This little girl is growing up nice and the Hairy line is something I want to play around with.  Lemongrass, High Yellow Phantom Pinstripe. She's going for her waxworms here.  Amelie, High Yellow Phantom Pinstripe. My favorite/largest gecko, kind of an idiot.  My current setup (almost; there's another Exo upstairs). One 55g, three 12x18 ZooMeds, one weird Petco half-moon tank, and two Sterilite bins. Not Pictured: huge shoebox rack in progress.  And a quick shot of my roommate's impulse Expo buy, The Mayor. He's transitioned entirely to f/t rats and is a reliable eater, which is awesome. He's pissy here because he's having a semi-bad shed and I keep yanking him out to soak. 
Captain Foxy fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Jun 15, 2012 |
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Jun 15, 2012 18:02
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Oh quick question! Sterlite bins are so cool. Buuttt...do you need to put in airholes or will they have enough air since its not air tight? I use a few of them but I have always drilled holes into the lid, until I saw that my friend doesn't even do it for his rodents and they are, well. alive. Humidity issues aside... I'd like a few more bins but dont have access to a dremel now.
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Jun 15, 2012 18:43
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Update on the snappers: The vet I spoke with said if their shells are compromised, they're not releasable. A full visit would have been way out of my budget, so they gave me the number of a local wildlife rescue. The rescue couldn't take them due to lack of resources, but did suggest I would be able to bring them somewhat up to speed (hah) by getting a larger tank, a full-spectrum light, a rock for basking, and some small live goldfish for calcium intake and a crash course in hunting. So! Anyone in the Northern Virginia area have a tank and light they'd like to let me borrow for a few weeks? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated. Again, I don't want to keep these two (oh HELL no I don't want to keep snappers), I just want to give them a fighting chance.
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Jun 15, 2012 18:57
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^^ Hunt on Craigslist for a cheap used 40-60 gallon and filter, get a cheap Home Depot/Lowe's/Walmart clamp lamp and buy your UVB new. Make the roommates chip in, since this was their brilliant idea. Goldfish also aren't going to do poo poo for calcium; get a container of Rep-Cal at your local pet supply, and some earthworms from a bait shop and dust the worms before feeding. Malalol posted:Oh quick question! Sterlite bins are so cool. Buuttt...do you need to put in airholes or will they have enough air since its not air tight? I use a few of them but I have always drilled holes into the lid, until I saw that my friend doesn't even do it for his rodents and they are, well. alive. Humidity issues aside... They're not airtight, so you don't have to drill holes, but it helps with reducing mold and increasing airflow. I don't typically bother with drilling holes in the lid, since that doesn't circulate air very well; it's better to do a double line of holes along the lower part of each side. Doing that without a drill can be done, but it's time consuming. Be sure to have a razor on hand to flush the edges. Captain Foxy fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Jun 15, 2012 |
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Jun 15, 2012 19:10
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I'm pretty pissed that my cat wouldnt cooperate with owning a gecko and I had to rehome the one I purchased because the local shop is having a sale on cresties and theres a gorgeous looking bright red solid colored one with ridiculously defined crests for 20 bucks. Like RED red. Also I've been feeding my ball fresh killed on the spot rats which are getting spendy, so I picked up a frozen that I thawed out and he completely ignored it even after being left in a box with it in the dark for an hour 
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Jun 15, 2012 21:05
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Malalol posted:Oh quick question! Sterlite bins are so cool. Buuttt...do you need to put in airholes or will they have enough air since its not air tight? I use a few of them but I have always drilled holes into the lid, until I saw that my friend doesn't even do it for his rodents and they are, well. alive. Humidity issues aside... I use sterlites for geckos and rodents alike...I cannot imagine not using holes for rodents, or even not using a screen mesh. I tried it once and holy how the stink was horrendous. For most of the rodents and geckos I cut a large portion of the top and install screens. The only ones I don't do this for is my chahoua because she needs higher humidity, and same with my rhino ratsnake. CGD and gecko poop gets moldy pretty easy without enough ventilation...it is disgusting when it happens.
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Jun 15, 2012 22:50
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Dr 14 INCH DICK Md posted:I'm pretty pissed that my cat wouldnt cooperate with owning a gecko and I had to rehome the one I purchased because the local shop is having a sale on cresties and theres a gorgeous looking bright red solid colored one with ridiculously defined crests for 20 bucks. Like RED red. Try warming it up in warm water first. Or try braining it. I'm talking about the frozen rat, by the way, not your cat.
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Jun 15, 2012 23:09
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Greycious posted:I use sterlites for geckos and rodents alike...I cannot imagine not using holes for rodents, or even not using a screen mesh. I tried it once and holy how the stink was horrendous. For most of the rodents and geckos I cut a large portion of the top and install screens. The only ones I don't do this for is my chahoua because she needs higher humidity, and same with my rhino ratsnake. This.
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Jun 15, 2012 23:10
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Moldy CGD with a dead cricket stuck in it.  Greycious has the right idea with the screens; that's what I'm doing for my rack, for misting convenience/easier viewing. The bins I have now were quick fixes for separating hatchlings and will probably be repurposed as higher humidity enclosures for different rhacs. If you're going to house longterm in a Sterilite without mesh, I've found that taking the lid off or opening it for an hour or so a day helps to dry it out and reduce mold, as does spot cleaning and quick removal of uneaten food.
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Jun 16, 2012 00:42
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Dr 14 INCH DICK Md posted:he completely ignored it even after being left in a box with it in the dark for an hour Try overnight. I just put the shoebox back in the tank and lock it up, then check in the morning. Obviously at that point if the rodent's not eaten it needs to be thrown out, but I almost never have uneaten rats after an overnight stay.
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Jun 16, 2012 00:58
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Big Centipede posted:Try warming it up in warm water first. Or try braining it. I'm talking about the frozen rat, by the way, not your cat. Cat's got no brains far as I can tell  God drat I want that cresty I saw today. Jerkass cat.
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Jun 16, 2012 02:05
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Just going to leave these here: 
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Jun 16, 2012 03:27
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Ohai there, cutesty wootsy snakey And Doc, I will take your brainless cat, ship him to California for me. Or the gecko. ONE OR THE OTHER.
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Jun 16, 2012 04:07
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Greycious posted:I use sterlites for geckos and rodents alike...I cannot imagine not using holes for rodents, or even not using a screen mesh. I tried it once and holy how the stink was horrendous. For most of the rodents and geckos I cut a large portion of the top and install screens. The only ones I don't do this for is my chahoua because she needs higher humidity, and same with my rhino ratsnake. Well, I checked em out and it seemed pretty clean, no smell or anything. But he keeps spiny mice and more odorless rodents. I do have a GIANT issue with mold though, I can have all the ventilation I want and...mold. I ended up buying a kritter keeper tonight for the crestie though. The turtle seems to be a diamondback terrapin. Though most GIS pics look like they have squiggly markings when hes all black. Either way, its illegal to have him oh boy.
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Jun 16, 2012 05:45
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Captain Foxy posted:Crestie photo dump! I just happened to have my girlfriend's camera on me when everyone was out and about last night. Holy poo poo, your cresties are so cute! I want them all. I've been wondering--crestie setups are usually pretty full of things. Does it take a long time to clean them out, and how often do you have to do it? I imagine they crap all over the branches, etc. I still want a crestie 
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Jun 16, 2012 09:05
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Alright, feedback please: Here's an imgur album of some pissed-off snappers http://imgur.com/a/Yp8XS Sanitized the tank, mat, and rocks with a 10:1 bleach dilution for ten minutes, scrubbed and rinsed the hell out of it. The light is a 65W full-spectrum daytime basking light that is roughly 10" above the basking rock. The pet store didn't have any feeder goldfish, and I was running out of money, so I grabbed a turtle bone, which the turtles duly ignored. I'll look around my area for an exotic pet store, I'd like to see them nom on some fishies and earthworms. Now, if you look closely in the second photo, you can see fuzzy stuff coming off the turtle's shell. Some of the marginal scutes are kinda flapping around like loose teeth, so I'm guessing the fuzzy stuff is soaked scutes from not getting to bask, but if it's algae, should I do anything or just leave it alone? When I explained the situation to the roomies, I didn't make enough frowny faces, I think, cause their reactions were "Oh, you mean they're sick? OH, they needed some place to get dry?? Wait, what's wrong with them again? I'm so confused. Alright have fun!" So it sounds like this one's all on me.
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Jun 16, 2012 15:53
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Thanks for taking care of them you need a uvb still, but in the meantime, stick them outside in the sun for an hour so they can get it that way http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Care/medshell.htm not sure if. That helps Malalol fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Jun 16, 2012 |
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Jun 16, 2012 17:37
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^^^Don't leave them unsupervised or in their tank in the sun unless you want to cook them. A basking light is good, and you're awesome for taking initiative, but they need both that and UVB. Also, a 'turtle bone' will mostly be ignored. Dusting their food with a supplement powder is your best bet. Bait shops and Petco carry eathworms, mealworms and better food options. Don't get them feeder goldfish; they're full of parasites and earthworms are what they'd probably be eating more of in the wild at this stage. Fraction posted:Holy poo poo, your cresties are so cute! I want them all. Not at all, really. The plastic plants are a pain if they get pooped on, but the live ones appreciate the poop so having more live planted setups is a good thing. Otherwise I just empty out all the branches and plants and wipe the inside down with a paper towel and a solution of vinegar and water. I spot clean the plants the same way. Then I replace the paper towel liner at the bottom of the cage and go about my day. It takes about 5-10 minutes, once a week. A single crestie in a tank doesn't poop all that much at all. Care wise, cresties are stupid easy. Daily misting, feed every other day for babies and once every two-three days for adults, and spot clean once a week. Captain Foxy fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Jun 16, 2012 |
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Jun 16, 2012 18:23
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Captive Hatched Green Anole! Only $85 +shipping 
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Jun 17, 2012 18:57
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Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuckshoit! My female milksnake started dropping her slugs on the 2nd. She had a total of 4, and then dropped one more on the 4th. After that she was in shed mode and looked to be empty of eggs, nice and trim. I did not feed her the week after but did see her again, slim and trim and in shed mode. Today I go to feed her and she has a large bulge near her vent. Apparently she wasn't done with the laying. And this has me loving stumped because there were NO bulges in her after she laid the 5th slug and she hasn't eaten since May. So if it's a dump it's magical poo poo. I have her soaking right now, but all in all I am ready to throw up my hands. I was under the assumption that milks were similar to corn and king snakes: fast, speedy little snake-eaters who bred easily. I've had nothing but problems trying to get them to breed and now even with surgery the female is done for. edit: That said she is extremely loving active and is the antithesis of lethargy. So far. When I got her out today she was burrowed down in her hide box, so part of me is worried she was going to lay and I freaked her out. Another part doesn't think so, since all of her slugs were laid outside the egg box and just in the open. Cowslips Warren fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Jun 18, 2012 |
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Jun 18, 2012 02:24
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Captain Foxy posted:Not at all, really. The plastic plants are a pain if they get pooped on, but the live ones appreciate the poop so having more live planted setups is a good thing. Otherwise I just empty out all the branches and plants and wipe the inside down with a paper towel and a solution of vinegar and water. I spot clean the plants the same way. Then I replace the paper towel liner at the bottom of the cage and go about my day. It takes about 5-10 minutes, once a week. A single crestie in a tank doesn't poop all that much at all. This is exactly how I clean mine, though both of my setups are all fake plants and stuff. It does take me a little longer but not so much longer that it's a pain. One of my geckos makes it even easier for me and tends to go in the same spot a lot of the time, though I don't think that's common for them. She is just exceptionally polite. Of all the pets I've owned they're by far the easiest to care for.
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Jun 18, 2012 04:04
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Just got an axolotl a few days ago! I'm new with this amphibious aquarium thing, so there's still a lot I don't know. He's living in a 30*17 aquarium right now, and is about 5-6cm. How long is it gonna be before he needs a bigger house? Oh and here's the set up in case there's any red flags: Plastic aquarium, fine bottom sand, sea shell, 1 fake plant, 1 real plant, 1 Marimo, porcelain tunnel, sponge filter. Using chemical dechlorinator and will buy a thermometer as soon as the store gets them in stock again. RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Jun 18, 2012 |
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Jun 18, 2012 15:59
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RillAkBea posted:Just got an axolotl a few days ago! I cant tell you about tank size, though that should be good for a while, but you are going to want to read up on the nitrogen cycle in freshwater aquariums. Essentially, animals produce ammonia, ammonia feeds nitrifying bacteria, you change the water to remove the waste nitrates. However, in a new tank, the ammonia level will far exceed the capacity of any existing bacteria, so you need to change water more often. I like 10% every other day for a new aquarium. Test kits (the ones with drops and a tube, not strips) are VERY helpful for this. You can also seek expert help on this matter in the Freshwater Thread here in PI. And if I remember correctly, axolotls are messy AND sensitive, so make sure you are doing partial water changes often! Also remove any uneaten food, which will cause ammonia spikes.
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Jun 18, 2012 18:55
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No change in my female milk. I'm sure it's an egg as opposed to a large poo poo, but why would one appear after all the rest were laid, over a week later? It isn't hard to touch either. I soaked her for a good hour this morning, and let me say that she does NOT like being confined to a plastic shoebox for a bath.
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Jun 18, 2012 20:12
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