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grover posted:
The technician came out here today. Apparently it is wired correctly. The big grey cable has three connectors (and the plug has three prongs) the third of which was disconnected by me in that photo, so maybe that was causing some confusion? Anyway, he wired it back up, tested lots of things with his multimeter, taped the poo poo out of the dangling connection, and the god drat thing worked like a charm. Our (his) only conclusion was that the melted dangly connection could have been touching the metal back panel of the oven and shorting something out. Once he taped it up, no more problems. Still cost me $111 :/.
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Jun 15, 2012 21:09
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Associate Christ
No, I'm not joking, that is wired horribly dangerously wrong. See the white wire in your photo? With the ground strap to the chassis? That's supposed to be connected to the neutral wire. The big gray wires (+120V and -120V) are supposed to connect to the black and red terminals.
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Kaluza-Klein posted:The technician came out here today. Apparently it is wired correctly. The big grey cable has three connectors (and the plug has three prongs) the third of which was disconnected by me in that photo, so maybe that was causing some confusion?
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Jun 16, 2012 02:17
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Looking into redoing a kitchen, and I'm tempted to go the RTA route. As much as I'd love to make the cabinets myself, I really don't have the time nor inclination, especially when it comes to running a raised panel bit. Never really liked the idea of router spinning that sort of bit and I don't want to buy a shaper, so that is that. I've seen that the RTA world is all over the map in terms of quality. Are any vendors in particular worth using?
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Jun 17, 2012 01:25
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PainterofCrap posted:I finally have one! (edit): think I found the problem:    Appears that the 73-year-old relay has expired in toasty fashion. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Jun 18, 2012 |
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Jun 17, 2012 23:57
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I'm trying to figure out why I have no ice from my new (used) refrigerator. The wiring harness going to the maker has 4 wires. 2 test as 120vac + and -, the other two are dead and I'm guessing are for the maker to trigger the water solenoid. The motor/gears/ice arm thing in the maker do not move at all, I'm thinking this thing needs totally replaced. It has 3 little microswitches inside, I may test and consider replacing one or more of those instead of the whole assembly. But leaning towards a whole new one. Can I test the water solenoid? is it as simple as sending 120vac down those other 2 wires in the harness and seeing if water squirts? Would I ruin something if I got the polarity wrong?
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Jun 18, 2012 03:55
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Wagonburner posted:I'm trying to figure out why I have no ice from my new (used) refrigerator. Are you sure that the water is turned on?
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Jun 18, 2012 04:47
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kid sinister posted:Are you sure that the water is turned on? Yeah its on. I can get water out the door. This thing has 3 water solenoids in all. I think water out the door proves the master/upstream one and the door water one are good. I just want to prove the ice maker one is good as well so I know I don't need to order one of those and we can begin filling this thing with fine meats cheeses and liquors. Still empty now and 2 fridges in the kitchen till I get it all working.
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Jun 18, 2012 05:30
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If its definitely a 120vac solenoid you can't get the polarity wrong, try it & see, please don't kill yourself.
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Jun 18, 2012 08:15
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I thought it might be a fun project to make a Water Pipe For Tobacco Use OnlyTM out of a glass bottle. What safety equipment do I need to have for drilling? I was thinking safety glasses and gloves, and I would change clothes and take a shower immediately after I'm done, but I'm not an expert with milling glass. I'll also be wet-sanding the cut edges, if that matters. I was thinking of smearing Crisco over the thing while working, to help stop tiny bits from flying off of it; is that reasonable?
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Jun 18, 2012 22:14
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Not sure if that'll work out, but if you drill glass, drill it submerged in water. And at low RPMs.
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Jun 19, 2012 00:11
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Also it will only work if you get one of the old actual resuable coke bottles, and use a glass drill bit.
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Jun 19, 2012 00:22
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EVERYTHING I SAY ABOUT JAPAN OR LIVING IN JAPAN IS COMPLETELY WRONG, BUT YOU BETTER BELIEVE I'LL 
ABOUT IT.
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Cakefool posted:If its definitely a 120vac solenoid you can't get the polarity wrong, try it & see, please don't kill yourself. I never could find a wiring diagram I was comfortable enough with to go sending 120vac down some hopefully-correct wire (at the harness at top of freezer). But I proved the water valve good the way a guy on another forum did. Icemaker valve is right next to the door water dispensing valve. I swapped their connectors, hit the door water button and water came out from the icemaker tube. ejstheman posted:I thought it might be a fun project to make a Water Pipe For Tobacco Use OnlyTM out of a glass bottle. What safety equipment do I need to have for drilling? My brother did this and made holes with an electric engraver, said he just had to keep drawing in a circle to get a hole. Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Jun 19, 2012 |
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Jun 19, 2012 00:23
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Wagonburner posted:I never could find a wiring diagram I was comfortable enough with to go sending 120vac down some hopefully-correct wire (at the harness at top of freezer). What's your refrigerator make and model? And can you post a picture of that label?
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Jun 19, 2012 01:51
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PainterofCrap posted:Not sure if that'll work out, but if you drill glass, drill it submerged in water. And at low RPMs. Is that safe for the drill bit? I was thinking of oil instead of water to avoid hastening corrosion of what will I assume be a relatively expensive drill bit.
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Jun 19, 2012 04:27
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kapalama posted:Also it will only work if you get one of the old actual resuable coke bottles, and use a glass drill bit. I got a 12oz glass Mexican Coke bottle at a Mexican restaurant by my work. I'm trying to decide whether I want to cut it off at the shoulder, to make it easier to clean (because then it will be a tube instead of a bottle), or whether I want to leave the mouth of the bottle alone and just figure it can be cleaned with some sort of solution, so I don't need to be able to scrub the inside.
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Jun 19, 2012 04:31
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ejstheman posted:Is that safe for the drill bit? I was thinking of oil instead of water to avoid hastening corrosion of what will I assume be a relatively expensive drill bit. They are actually pretty cheap becasue they are just a head on a spindle, rather than a fluted shaft. (heh, heh, he said fluted shaft.)
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Jun 19, 2012 04:41
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ejstheman posted:I got a 12oz glass Mexican Coke bottle at a Mexican restaurant by my work. I'm trying to decide whether I want to cut it off at the shoulder, to make it easier to clean (because then it will be a tube instead of a bottle), or whether I want to leave the mouth of the bottle alone and just figure it can be cleaned with some sort of solution, so I don't need to be able to scrub the inside. Since it's glass you can leave the mouth as is and just rinse it with acetone when it gets gunky.
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Jun 19, 2012 04:41
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Or buy a 50cent bottle brush?
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Jun 19, 2012 07:09
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Rock salt and a mild solvent like rubbing alcohol works well, I hear...
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Jun 19, 2012 07:13
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I am having some noise difficulties with a new apartment I just moved into. One of the bedroom walls is a real, permanent wall but comes 18 inches short of reaching the ceiling. This is along the entire span of this one wall in the bedroom, probably about 15 feet. In this space a large air conditioner duct tube thing goes from the living room into the bed room. So imagine only like 2 feet of the 15 feet being transversed by air conditioner tube. While this looks neat it is a huge pain in the rear end. Because that wall also happens to be the wall the living room TV is set against every single thing that is on tv can be heard in the bed room. Also anything in the bedroom can be heard in the living room. Here are my questions for you all: 1) What is the specific name of this kind of wall? - I have googled wall partition, loft wall, wall unit and honestly none of it is really what I am looking at. - This is a real wall, in an apartment with only normal walls that go all the way up. But this wall for whatever reason stops 18 inches short of the ceiling. 2) What can I do to close this gap between ceiling and wall? (note I am renting and can not do anything really permanent) - I have seen this in many apartments/condos and thought there must be a product made by ikea or a similar brand to bring together and sound proof this area. However given that I don't know the proper name for this type of wall I can't even search for the product. - I am imagining some kind of expandable or sliding product that would be able to fit the precise size of the gap and more or less sound proof the two rooms from one another. It seems like with how common this type of wall is, some type of solution should already exist for it. 3) My idea for closing the gap: If a relatively cheap commercialized product is not already available. - Take fiber board, cut it to the exact dimensions and fill the gap. Then custom make drapes to sit on each side of the gap. I think if done right this might be a nice decorative look and not really odd. However it's hard to know, it may look goofy. TLDR: I have a wall in my apartment that stops 18 inches from the ceiling. It is otherwise a real wall, with a door and shelves attached to it, electrical outlets etc. 1) I need to know the name of this type of wall to help me find solutions for "closing the gap" and 2) I would be happy to take ideas for closing the gap. 3) The gap must be closed because the living room and bed room will not work well together if each can hear everything going on in the other. Thanks as always.
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Jun 19, 2012 07:15
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Let me guess, exposed ceilings? The apartment was probably designed with drop ceilings in mind and then they renovated it after exposed steel became popular. Your best bet would be hanging some "unistrut" from the beams with beam clamps and then suspending acoustic panels (or just some heavy drapery) of some sort from it. The fiberboard is unnecessary.
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Jun 19, 2012 07:36
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Doctor Party posted:TLDR: I have a wall in my apartment that stops 18 inches from the ceiling. It is otherwise a real wall, with a door and shelves attached to it, electrical outlets etc. 1) I need to know the name of this type of wall to help me find solutions for "closing the gap" and 2) I would be happy to take ideas for closing the gap. 3) The gap must be closed because the living room and bed room will not work well together if each can hear everything going on in the other. Is there a door in the wall? (Do you have stairs in your house?) A bunch of pillows stuffed in there would work better, not be a permanent install, and then hey free pillows. Pillows are amazing sound inusulators. kapalama fucked around with this message at 11:11 on Jun 19, 2012 |
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Jun 19, 2012 11:08
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Or an old mattress cut down to size. No problem finding one of those.
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Jun 19, 2012 22:39
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kapalama posted:Is there a door in the wall? (Do you have stairs in your house?) Yes there is a door. Yeah I think something will need to be placed in the gap then something to cover it so it doesn't look awful. I just don't know what this type of wall is called. Maybe a junior loft?
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Jun 20, 2012 00:41
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My bedroom light is a two-socket ceiling fixture controlled by a dimmer switch. If I replace one incandescent bulb with a 12w Philips AmbientLED, it works fine. If I replace both, they flicker like crazy at full power or dimmed. Can I assume it's because it's an old switch and not a leading edge dimmer?
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Jun 20, 2012 04:08
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GWBBQ posted:My bedroom light is a two-socket ceiling fixture controlled by a dimmer switch. If I replace one incandescent bulb with a 12w Philips AmbientLED, it works fine. If I replace both, they flicker like crazy at full power or dimmed. Can I assume it's because it's an old switch and not a leading edge dimmer? Yep. New dimmer will probably fix it.
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Jun 20, 2012 04:28
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Doctor Party posted:Yes there is a door. Pillows are cheap and plentiful, and you can cover them with whatever once you are sure they will work.
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Jun 20, 2012 08:10
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So hey. My apartment's underflooring looked like this at one point: Click through for full size. That's after about a week of air drying (dried for three days and change before work began). Landlord said it was fine and stuck new floorboards on top. Landlord also hosed up reinstalling the radiator and it leaked hot water out the right side for two months, with half the water soaking in and half the water boiling away to steam. Landlord said not to worry. Basically, please tell me what I need to know.
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Jun 20, 2012 08:49
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You have a terrible landlord & the floor is damp & rotting away underneath you, harbouring god-knows what mould under there.
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Jun 20, 2012 12:24
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Yeah, that's about what I thought. Thanks for the sanity check.
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Jun 20, 2012 19:44
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GWBBQ posted:My bedroom light is a two-socket ceiling fixture controlled by a dimmer switch. If I replace one incandescent bulb with a 12w Philips AmbientLED, it works fine. If I replace both, they flicker like crazy at full power or dimmed. Can I assume it's because it's an old switch and not a leading edge dimmer? thelightguy posted:Yep. New dimmer will probably fix it.
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Jun 21, 2012 00:22
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grover posted:More likely not. Well his options are using a proper modern dimmer, which has like an 80% chance of working (more like 100% since he's using high quality Philips LEDs) for $25 and change or buying an externally controlled fixture and the necessary hardware to feed it DMX, which will have a 100% chance of working and a $2500 price tag. Trust me, I install this poo poo for a living. corgski fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Jun 22, 2012 |
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Jun 21, 2012 04:36
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Drop ceiling question: What's the best way to actually finish a wall that was just hacked together up to the ceiling tiles. Is there a reason besides the drop celing light fixtures to actually keep the drop ceiling anyway? kapalama fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Jun 21, 2012 |
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Jun 21, 2012 05:05
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thelightguy posted:Trust me, I install this poo poo for a living.
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Jun 21, 2012 10:43
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Don't they make dimmable CFLs now? I didn't think that was an issue unless you're using the cheaper non-dimmable ones in dimmed outlets. On a somewhat related note, I have lovely old dimmers for the ceiling lights in my bedroom, all of which are super-bright non-dimmable CFLs. I keep the dimmer at its highest setting all the time, but I can still hear the lights buzzing a little anyway. Is there a way to temporarily (I'm renting) take the dimmer out of the circuit and just make it a short, so that the switch/dimmer assembly will just be a normal light switch?
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Jun 21, 2012 22:29
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ejstheman posted:Don't they make dimmable CFLs now? I didn't think that was an issue unless you're using the cheaper non-dimmable ones in dimmed outlets. Not without removing that dimmer from its box and either bypassing it or putting something else in its place.
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Jun 22, 2012 03:31
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grover posted:Has there been some fundamental change in dimmer technology in the last 5 years that they finally work properly with CFLs and LEDs? Yeah. Dimmers designed for CFLs and LEDs don't use SCRs which just clamp off the current at a certain point in the sine wave, but much, much higher frequency digital PWM. Look at Lutron and Leviton dimmers. E: Lutron:http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-DVCL-153P-WH-Dimmable-Dimmer-White/dp/B004DZOMKC Leviton: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-6674-P0W-SureSlide-Universal-Incandescent/dp/B0076HPM8A corgski fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Jun 22, 2012 |
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Jun 22, 2012 06:09
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thelightguy posted:Yeah. Dimmers designed for CFLs and LEDs don't use SCRs which just clamp off the current at a certain point in the sine wave, but much, much higher frequency digital PWM.
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Jun 22, 2012 14:41
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My wife and I are getting ready to paint our living and dining room in the house we recently purchased. Naturally the previous painters did us the wonderful service of painting over all of the outlets and light switches. Feeling adventurous, I took one of the outlets off last night. I carefully cut around the edges, but still had to basically pry the cover off. It looked like the outlets had been painted over more than once, giving it a nice glued effect. Forced to prying it off naturally meant that I ripped off some of the old paint and drywall. As a result, the new covers have a nice little border to them. How do I fix this? Is this something that any cut drywall patch + spackle can fix, or would it be easier to use those outlet patches to save time/material? And is there a trick to making sure this 'gap' is as flush as possible with the old wall so that the new paint goes on evenly?    (basic home depot outlet cover that we may or may not use) Between the outlets and light switches I've probably got fifteen of these things to do. Should make for a fun weekend.
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Jun 22, 2012 17:30
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Sand it smooth, spackle it, sand that smooth then paint it would be the way probably. Or just buy oversized cover plates like this one: Cover Plate
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Jun 22, 2012 18:08
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