|
UPDATE: The first tool and die shop I sent my blueprints to said they aren't interested in such a small job, but forwarded the email to someone else. He did say that everyone is insanely busy right now though. This is going to be trickier than I thought. I did however get the rest of the parts I need for my tube drawing bench, so now the next free weekend I have will be spent assembling it. Also, screw machinist tool shops with minimum order costs. $21 part. $25 minimum purchase. The guy wouldn't just sell it to me for $25, so I had to scour the catalogue for something else to purchase. Of course, nothing was less than $10.
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2012 23:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 16:28 |
|
|
Brekelefuw posted:UPDATE: The first tool and die shop I sent my blueprints to said they aren't interested in such a small job, but forwarded the email to someone else. He did say that everyone is insanely busy right now though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2012 23:32
|
|
|
SO IT TURNS OUT GETTING INSURED DOING METAL THINGS REALLY FUCKIN SUCKS Got a government grant to open a small business, but I had to get insured as a prerequisite. Now that we're trying to get new home insurance in addition to the business insurance, we're realizing that within a years' time the increased premiums will cost more than the grant itself was for 
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2012 01:17
|
|
|
Been doing a lot of roughing on inconel. Start with a $150 endmill with 3" of flute length. Run it at .500" depth of cut until the teeth dull and chip off. $15 to the regrind shop to shorten and recut tips. Repeat until stubby. I have a table full of these now.  
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2012 03:24
|
|
|
oxbrain posted:Been doing a lot of roughing on inconel. Start with a $150 endmill with 3" of flute length. Run it at .500" depth of cut until the teeth dull and chip off. $15 to the regrind shop to shorten and recut tips. Repeat until stubby. gently caress yes .500" cut depth owns, I love roughing cutters. Are you running flood coolant and a high RPM setup?
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2012 04:16
|
|
|
Flood coolant, 60sfm, .004" chipload. Sounds like a god drat earth quake, but little to no felt vibrations in the part or spindle.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2012 06:24
|
|
|
oxbrain posted:Flood coolant, 60sfm, .004" chipload. Sounds like a god drat earth quake, but little to no felt vibrations in the part or spindle. It's a roughing cutter it's made for that poo poo, the edge profile relieves pressures that would break it. If you run 10,000+ RPM machines the roughing cutters sound like buzz saws running through concrete. Finish cut sounds like a woodshop.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2012 14:56
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:SO IT TURNS OUT GETTING INSURED DOING METAL THINGS REALLY FUCKIN SUCKS In regards to this, I read very very good advice far too late for referring to your workspace in any written/legal sense: it's not a workshop, it's a studio, because you're an artisan. an artist's studio basically!! It is purported to open all the doors that MANUFACTURING closes.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2012 18:30
|
|
|
After a 4 hour round trip today, I've now added a fly press to my tool collection. I'm hoping it will be just the tool for some vehicle jobs I've got coming up, including bush replacements and I've a waterpump from an old ford sidevalve to dismantle, repair and rebuild. Has anyone any tips on handy tooling for it?
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2012 01:26
|
|
|
oxbrain posted:Been doing a lot of roughing on inconel. Start with a $150 endmill with 3" of flute length. Run it at .500" depth of cut until the teeth dull and chip off. $15 to the regrind shop to shorten and recut tips. Repeat until stubby. Why not just buy an indexable end mill with PCDs? The throughput would likely easily pay for itself if not just the tools alone.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2012 21:24
|
|
|
Heres a thinker: I need a very high temperature, very small screw. I would like something in the #1 to #0 range but have settled on a 2-56 screw since that is the smallest I can get off the shelf. However I cannot find an A286 2-56 nut anywhere. Without making one, how can I get one? Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Jun 25, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2012 22:02
|
|
|
Did you try McMaster-Carr?
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2012 22:23
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Did you try McMaster-Carr? Yes, and grainger and fastenal and amazon. Fastenal had jack poo poo, grainger had 2-56 bolts, Amazon had 2-56 bolts and mcmaster had 2-56 bolts...but no nuts. Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Jun 25, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2012 22:29
|
|
|
Oh, I see, hmm. Well, must they necessarily be so small? Can you go up to 4-40? Mcmaster has A286 nuts in 4-40, if it's a possibility. Maybe describe the application a little bit?
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2012 22:35
|
|
|
No, 2-56 is too big but acceptable. Theyre being use to bolt down some wire that is .005" to some extremely brittle, thin material. An inconel/A286 paper clip or small clip may work as well.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2012 22:54
|
|
|
Lord Gaga posted:No, 2-56 is too big but acceptable. Theyre being use to bolt down some wire that is .005" to some extremely brittle, thin material. gently caress that, use an epoxy.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2012 23:48
|
|
|
Just wanted to share with you guys about a new respirator filter they came out with. Still a P100 but the 3M model is 2297 instead of 2097. its white and allows for VERY much easier breathing. I'm in love.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2012 00:02
|
|
|
Random Number posted:gently caress that, use an epoxy. Seconded. I used to have too attach 100nm Aluminium filters to mounts, and we used glue. Even then it's a massive pain in the rear end, I can't imagine trying to build a mechanical mount that would work.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2012 00:18
|
|
|
Have tried platinum paste, does not work. Connections are poo poo under load. We decided to try our theory with some regular or stainless 000 screws if we can get screws and nuts that are stainless and not just coated steel.
Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Jun 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2012 18:45
|
|
|
Lord Gaga posted:Have tried platinum paste, does not work. Connections are poo poo under load. Use super glue.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2012 18:51
|
|
|
Random Number posted:Use super glue. Pretty much no epoxy is rated above 100*C. Were going for a minimum of 600-700* C before we buy a tap and die and make a 2-56 nut out of A286 to get to 1000*C and even that is below what we really want. Epoxies must be electrically conductive. The plan now is to use platinum paste under the screw with it as a post.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2012 18:54
|
|
|
Brekelefuw posted:Anyone know of any good free blueprint programs? I should learn AutoCAD, but it is so overwhelming (and not free,) and the only ones I seem to find on google are for designing houses and gardens. Here's a forum thread from a different forum on the topic
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2012 00:16
|
|
|
Lord Gaga posted:An inconel/A286 paper clip or small clip may work as well.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2012 00:22
|
|
Bad Angus! Bad!
|
Lord Gaga posted:Pretty much no epoxy is rated above 100*C.Epoxies must be electrically conductive. We routinely use epoxies for "high" temp applications at work. Unfortunately, high temp stuff usually doesn't specify resistivity. You can either get "non-conductive" or "possibly conductive but we won't tell you". Possibly something like this: http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/ca_metallic.htm
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2012 02:25
|
|
|
 Started a new job today running sub arc for Aecon Lockerbie and Hole. Working 6 10s pushing buttons. They even have people who rig everything into place for me. Aww yeah. This is just me running a few stringers for them to show them I actually know what I'm doing.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2012 03:20
|
|
|
I could just sit and look at pretty welds like that all day long. Er... ok, maybe not all day.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2012 04:31
|
|
|
Best way to butt-braze two ends of an aluminium rod together with just a sputtery hand torch is, in fact, fluxless aluminium brazing rod, correct? I'm open to flux, naturally, I just don't know what a good flux for aluminium is because it's a weird spooky metal I don't really go near (until now)
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2012 04:38
|
|
|
^^^ This is the flux to use: http://www.castolin.com/product/190-nh Actually... the old version which they don't make any more is the one to use, the new stuff isn't as good, but probably won't kill you. Fluxless rods? I haven't used them but from what I understand these are a zinc/aluminium alloy used for repairing diecast aluminium. Whether they're appropriate to use depends on what grade your aluminium bars are. Chalupa Joe fucked around with this message at 12:43 on Jun 28, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2012 12:18
|
|
|
5356, hardened to H18, which I'm annealing via said torch and a bar of soap for temperature gauging. Don't know what that stacks up to, though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2012 22:41
|
|
|
Lord Gaga posted:Heres a thinker: Is this one? 8th item down, lists it as "2-56 X .688 SHC A2 2-56 X .688 SHC A286 UNJ THREAD B/O" I'll admit I am guessing, but I've seen references to this nut, for example this Fairchild Fasteners document that lists it as "MRPN 2-56 SU - A286, NON LOCKING, "2-56 MINIATURE PRESS NUT" Ocean State Stainless might have it in stock, but they don't list their stock on their website and you have to call or e-mail for a quote.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2012 00:23
|
|
|
Well..... I bit the bullet today and signed up for a 10 week college continuing-ed course in machining. If i finish Machining 1, 2 and 3 I will have a certificate in machining, and can then enroll to get a certificate in CNC and CAD stuff. It seems to cover tools, lathes, milling, and grinding, as well as some other stuff. I am really excited about it, but also nervous. This isn't so I can start a new career. I have no plans of not being a brass instrument repair tech, but it will get me one step closer to being a trumpet maker, as well as being able to make my own tools for repair work.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 02:37
|
|
|
Making your own tools is always awesome. Especially when they're some esoteric rare poo poo. 10 weeks though?
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 17:53
|
|
|
Slung Blade posted:Making your own tools is always awesome. Especially when they're some esoteric rare poo poo. Sept-Nov. 6 hours per week. That is for the first of 3 courses for the certificate. Each course will be 10 weeks+. I guess my explanation wasn't clear.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 22:19
|
|
|
Just added a high-frequency arc starter/stabilizer to my AC/DC buzzbox. I can now weld aluminum. I feel like I just leveled up. Yes, I have no foot control to adjust amperage, but I'm getting a sense of where to set amperage on the buzzbox for the different kind of aluminum I'm working on. It's not the most ideal situation, but $150 for the arc starter/stabilizer was a smoking good deal.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 03:06
|
|
|
What metal is Very Body/Skin-Safe and still somewhat affordable? Stainless is out because I have to be able to hand-forge it and seriously gently caress stainless. Titanium's ideal but yeahhhhh I'm not payin Titanium Prices. Is aluminium the next best option? I know the passivation alumina layer makes it pretty stable but I'm not actually sure. Also, if I braze an aluminium holloware vessel together with aluminium brazing rod, will it no longer be food-safe? I dunno if the insta-alumina passivation effect still applies.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 00:48
|
|
|
If you're considering aluminum buttplugs or something, I'd be worried about that passivation layer being constantly worn off. It's fine in cookware because it builds up and sticks around, but if the item were being worn or inserted or what have you, it might not actually be able to maintain that layer. Could you do silver plating or something? I don't know what that'd run a person, but as I understand it, the amount of silver used is pretty minimal. e: otherwise, I imagine you could anodize the aluminum, is that considered people-safe? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Jul 10, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 00:53
|
|
|
Just a thing that's being worn, figured it'd be cool because of how common it is in things like watches/glasses and other constant-use things. The aluminium oxide forms in some absurdly-small timespan, nanoseconds or something, in our atmosphere, so I can't imagine it actually being meaningfully de-passivized in anything short of a vaccuum chamber or completely oxygenless atmosphere. The effect is supposed to be much less aggressive if it's an alloy, though, and I'm basically talking out of my rear end as it is, sooooooo. Anodizing is a really good idea regardless, though. e: Having read up on it a bit, anodizing by default definitely seems like the way to go, especially because it actually isn't that hard. Also it gives me an excuse to widen my Acid Collection- that one lonesome jug of hydrochloric needs a friend. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Jul 10, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 01:09
|
|
|
Anodizing would of course also get you access to all sorts of awesome colors.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 01:12
|
|
|
   Say hello to my tube drawing bench! I made it a week ago. I am now just waiting for a tool maker to make me some mandrels to draw the tubing over. Once that is done, I will install the cable. I also had to customize the winch pulley block with a steel washer that fit the inside diameter of an eye-bolt so it doesn't warp when used to draw the tubing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 01:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 16:28 |
|
|
Bought the Cheapest Discount Drill Press possible and despite the box saying 5-speed, I'm not seeing any speed control... and why does the pulley-box on top open up so easily? Huh? There's a diagram showing me how to manually pull the belts and read just them to change the speed? How do I adjust this belt without a special tool, I don't wanna break nuthin. It's got 2 5-step spindles, and it seems like you move the entire belt up or down a spindle-level. Also that winch idea is Really Good, I'm gonna steal it. Not for drawing tubing or anything, but for straightening wire. I've been trying to come up with a reliable way to twist up wires in a consistent and reliable fashion, and anything more than a single strand doubled over and twisted always ends up screwey because I can never get the tension even between all of them. But if I could just anneal em and pull the wires taut I'd be golden.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 20:09
|
|