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Welp, handling my buddy's X100 pretty much convinced me that I need something smaller than a D200 for street and casual shooting. Since there is no way in heaven that I can afford an X100, I'm thinking about a Yashica Electro 35. Seems to be a decent enough camera. 45mm, f/1.7. I'd love to get something with a 35 mil lens, but that's probably not going to happen. SInce I shoot in aperture priority 99% of the time I don't think I'll be put off by its lack of manual shutter controls. Trying really hard to talk myself out of this, or into something else, just because I hate making impulse buys, but I'm already starting to toll craigslist for something in decent condition. I guess I'm looking for opinions or suggestions. I'm pretty set on a rangefinder, but not for any specific reason other than I'd love to try something quiet without any serious mirror slap. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Jun 24, 2012 |
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Jun 24, 2012 06:13
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| # ? May 12, 2024 18:11 |
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Olympus XA!
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Jun 24, 2012 06:25
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See I actually wouldn't mind that except I hate everything about how it looks. I guess if I'm going to enjoy using it I'd really prefer to enjoy looking at it as well  I guess that's a pretty dumb reason to not get a good camera, but I think I'm going to stick by it.
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Jun 24, 2012 06:27
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No, that's a good reason (especially if it stops you buying things you don't need). Gotta have a strong sense of aesthetics to do visual art  The XA definitely prioritizes size above everything else, if you don't need to shove it in a coat pocket with a bunch of keys there's not much reason to get it over something more traditional.
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Jun 24, 2012 06:44
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Pentax ME (while imagining that it's a rangefinder).
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Jun 24, 2012 07:21
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Martytoof posted:Since there is no way in heaven that I can afford an X100, I'm thinking about a Yashica Electro 35. Seems to be a decent enough camera. 45mm, f/1.7. I'd love to get something with a 35 mil lens, but that's probably not going to happen. Yashica Lynx 14e. It's a fast Planar lens (supposedly "optimized for wide aperture shooting") in a very heavy mechanically-leaf-shuttered body with full manual controls. I've gotten usable 8x10-print results out of it at 1/30 f/2 and slightly glowy/soft ones at f/1.4. The coatings aren't the best, hoods were standard in this era but will require some effort today (to fit the RF). The film counter must be a weak point, because both of my copies' counters start from about 36. Also people tended to leave the batteries in, and over time many of them have exploded and gunked the VFs. The aperture ring has no detents and is easy to accidentally unset. On the other hand, it's a mechanical shutter that can be cleaned, it doesn't have random electronic failures like the Pad of Death on a Yashica Electro 35, and it's a perfect low-light shooter. If you're dead set on the Electro I have one with a slight POD problem (about 10% of shots) you could have for cheap to fix up if you want. Alternately, Stylus Epic 35/2.8 if you can give up the manual focus and exposure. The program is TERRIBLE (f/2.8 to 1/1000th then down to max f/11) but the lens performs extremely well even wide open. Or, again if you could tolerate a SLR the ME or MX with a SMCP 35mm f/3.5 is amazingly sharp/easy to use/compact. e: Or I have a program/rangefinder Minolta Himatic F (supposedly a nice 4-element 38mm f/2.7) and a full-manual Graflex Graphic 35 (badged Rodenstock Trinar/triplet lens) that I would also part with very cheaply if they floated your boat. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Jun 24, 2012 |
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Jun 24, 2012 07:56
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Thanks for the awesome info and rundowns. I'm not dead set on the Yashica, but I think that's the direction I'm leaning. If you want to get rid of that Pad of Death'd Electro I definitely have the tools and rubber to replace the part and would be glad to take it off your hands, even as a side project. I have a Pentax ME right now, just can't find my lens for it. I might have sold it when I got rid of my K10D to be honest, so really while I love the ME and I really like it's big bright viewfinder I'd love to try a rangefinder just for "something different"'s sake. e: OK, I guess I'm getting ready to do film again and I'm just taking stock of my chemicals. I have a bottle of HC-110 which is unopened but has been stored in a room temperature laundry room since probably 2010. Same with a bottle of diluted Ilford fixer. It was mixed Nov 2009 (I wrote the date on the bottle), has seen probably 40 or 50 rolls in its lifetime, but has been sitting in a clear opaque white chemical bottle since, again, roughly 2010. Still decent, or should I just pop for a new bottle of each? e: Also 1/3 of a bottle of undiluted Ilford developer. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Jun 24, 2012 |
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Jun 24, 2012 17:17
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The HC-110 is fine, the concentrate lasts forever. The diluted fix might be okay, clip test it.
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Jun 25, 2012 00:01
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Or this: http://camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/Olympus_mju_II
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Jun 25, 2012 00:03
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I love my mju-ii, but there are caveats. The flash is really strong and direct, so using it absolutely requires negative film, as there's no way to alter the exposure. It exposes slide quite well without flash however, tending to underexpose a little I find, keeping the highlights intact. There's a little bit of field curvature on the edges, and it vignettes a bit. Very sturdy, "all weather" claim stands up pretty well. The AF is not bad at all, though it does make a bit of noise when you release the shutter.
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Jun 25, 2012 00:12
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Paul MaudDib posted:What lenses? Looks like a normal and a wide? Just a normal. 50mm AI-(home)-conversion lens. The downside to this system is that lenses are going to be harder to find than with my FD system. The Gooniest Goon fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Jun 25, 2012 |
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Jun 25, 2012 07:24
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Zombotron posted:Just a normal. 50mm AI-(home)-conversion lens. The downside to this system is that lenses are going to be harder to find than with my FD system. Nikon lenses? Are you kidding? Except for the Pre-Ai thing (overcome by a KEH $60 <= Nikkormat FT2 body), Nikon's lenses are super compatible. You can throw a modern supertele/superfast wide lens onto that same body as long as it's got the prongs. And if you're willing to reach back to Pre-AI lenses, the glass gets pretty cheap. There's a lot of slightly-slow (f/3.5-4) and/or early design versions which can be had for cheap as well. They're absolutely great for your average shooter, the quality probably exceeds the kit lens on digital. At every point through it's history, Nikon has been a pro brand. "pro" for the 60s will more than suffice for most people. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 08:10 on Jun 25, 2012 |
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Jun 25, 2012 08:05
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Paul MaudDib posted:Nikon lenses? Are you kidding? Except for the Pre-Ai thing (overcome by a KEH $60 <= Nikkormat FT2 body), Nikon's lenses are super compatible. You can throw a modern supertele/superfast wide lens onto that same body as long as it's got the prongs. And if you're willing to reach back to Pre-AI lenses, the glass gets pretty cheap. There's a lot of slightly-slow (f/3.5-4) and/or early design versions which can be had for cheap as well. They're absolutely great for your average shooter, the quality probably exceeds the kit lens on digital. At every point through it's history, Nikon has been a pro brand. "pro" for the 60s will more than suffice for most people. The F3 can do nonAI lenses. You just have to flip up the indexer.
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Jun 25, 2012 08:39
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8th-samurai posted:The F3 can do nonAI lenses. You just have to flip up the indexer. There you go. I was just pointing out that the Nikkormat series was a low-cost point of entry to the system since everything is backwards-compatible. There are definitely better options, the F3 as well as the FM2N.
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Jun 25, 2012 09:14
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Paul MaudDib posted:There you go. I was just pointing out that the Nikkormat series was a low-cost point of entry to the system since everything is backwards-compatible. There are definitely better options, the F3 as well as the FM2N. Right but the last few photos where shot on an F3 so I assume he already owns one? 
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Jun 25, 2012 09:38
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Martytoof posted:I'm thinking about a Yashica Electro 35
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Jun 25, 2012 10:39
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Or even a Minolta Hi-Matic 7sII
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Jun 25, 2012 12:33
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8th-samurai posted:The F3 can do nonAI lenses. You just have to flip up the indexer. It won't meter though, right?
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Jun 25, 2012 16:27
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Beastruction posted:It won't meter though, right? I believe you can, you just have to stop down manually.
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Jun 25, 2012 16:33
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QPZIL posted:I believe you can, you just have to stop down manually. Correct. It will stop down meter with nonAI lenses.
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Jun 25, 2012 19:07
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My point was that pre-AI Nikon lenses are a great way to get a foothold in the system. You can pick up a Nikkormat for $60ish in EX condition, then breezing through the lens catalog I see a BGN 35/2.8 for $40, A BGN 28/3.5 for $30, an EX 105/2.5 for $110, a BGN 24/2.8 for $110, an EX Micro 55/2.8 for $140, and 50/2s out the rear end. Everything with rabbit ears (everything except a few modern lenses) can be mounted onto that Nikkormat, which is why I recommended that one specifically for getting into Nikon on the cheap (Fs are collectible and expensive). Anyway, I realize you're looking for full compatibility with the whiz-bang program features on your F3. But it's kind of absurd to complain that a Nikon (of all cameras) is "hard to find lenses for". Their catalog spans everything from "oh god I need something for my photo class and my budget is $0  " cheap stuff to ultra high end modern lenses, and with the exception of a few lemons (45/2.8) it's all pretty great. If the need can't be filled by something in Nikon's catalog or something that can be mounted onto a Nikon it probably just can't be filled.
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Jun 25, 2012 |
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Jun 25, 2012 19:20
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Paul MaudDib posted:My point was that pre-AI Nikon lenses are a great way to get a foothold in the system. You can pick up a Nikkormat for $60ish in EX condition, then breezing through the lens catalog I see a BGN 35/2.8 for $40, A BGN 28/3.5 for $30, an EX 105/2.5 for $110, a BGN 24/2.8 for $110, an EX Micro 55/2.8 for $140, and 50/2s out the rear end. Everything with rabbit ears (everything except a few modern lenses) can be mounted onto that Nikkormat, which is why I recommended that one specifically for getting into Nikon on the cheap (Fs are collectible and expensive). So this is a general recommendation for anyone that doesn't already own an F3 (which we established three posts up will meter and mount nonAI)? Please take back your 45mm slurs or I will be forced to fight you, that lens is optically excellent.
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Jun 25, 2012 19:40
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8th-samurai posted:So this is a general recommendation for anyone that doesn't already own an F3 (which we established three posts up will meter and mount nonAI)? Please take back your 45mm slurs or I will be forced to fight you, that lens is optically excellent. But Ken Rockwell says
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Jun 25, 2012 19:44
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8th-samurai posted:So this is a general recommendation for anyone that doesn't already own an F3 (which we established three posts up will meter and mount nonAI)? Please take back your 45mm slurs or I will be forced to fight you, that lens is optically excellent. Yeah, general advice plus I think it's absurd to think it would be "hard to find lenses" for a Nikon. Feels like this is way too much arguing over a single line. Nikon's a pretty great system is all I'm trying to say  Also even if the 45/2.8 is optically OK there's a billion Tessar-type lenses out there. Like I think I have three or four in plain sight right now. You get interchangeable lenses and so you buy the same lens that's on 90% of the fixed-lens cameras out there? Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Jun 25, 2012 |
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Jun 25, 2012 19:50
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Paul MaudDib posted:Yeah, general advice plus I think it's absurd to think it would be "hard to find lenses" for a Nikon. Feels like this is way too much arguing over a single line. Nikon's a pretty great system is all I'm trying to say Agreed, Nikon's lenses aren't hard to find (or that expensive). I hear that the GN 45mm is one of the sharpest Nikon lenses ever made (I would have proof except mine showed up broken  ).
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Jun 25, 2012 22:11
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8th-samurai posted:Agreed, Nikon's lenses aren't hard to find (or that expensive). I hear that the GN 45mm is one of the sharpest Nikon lenses ever made (I would have proof except mine showed up broken Interesting, does the GN thing make it hard to use when you're not flashing or something? Also is it pre-computed for a specific flash (SB-1?) or is there a way to adjust the power it's expecting (perhaps by adjusting ISO inversely to increased flash power)?
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Jun 25, 2012 22:19
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Paul MaudDib posted:Interesting, does the GN thing make it hard to use when you're not flashing or something? Also is it pre-computed for a specific flash (SB-1?) or is there a way to adjust the power it's expecting (perhaps by adjusting ISO inversely to increased flash power)? There is a setting on the side for the flash guide number  or you can just unlock the aperture ring if you want to use it normally.
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Jun 25, 2012 22:28
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I finally shot, developed and scanned my first roll of film all by myself (well, with Demon_Corsair's help on the developing). Behold, art: img010-Edit by Breanne Unger, on Flickr Oreo is not impressed.
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Jun 28, 2012 02:10
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Here's one of the first rolls of ektar I shot this summer. I think my color correction might be a bit off (I'm not colorblind, but... color challenged) but I like the way this stuff looks.     
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Jun 28, 2012 03:12
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That riot gear rules
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Jun 28, 2012 03:14
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So I have Portra 160VC (120), expired in 2005. What can I expect in terms of colour shifts - plenty or not so much? I heard that the colours become muted, which I like. I have no idea what conditions it was stored it, but I can assume they were moderate, the guy sells a lot of expired film. bobmarleysghost fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Jun 28, 2012 |
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Jun 28, 2012 03:45
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Santa is strapped posted:So I have Portra 160VC (120), expired in 2005. What can I expect in terms of colour shifts - plenty or not so much? I heard that the colours become muted, which I like. Depending on how it was stored it may not even be any different from fresh film at all. One thing that does usually happen when film is not cold stored is that it loses a bit of speed (consider exposing at 120) and the grain increases. Some films have color shifts usually either towards muted or reddish color. I haven't shot expired 160VC, but googling around a bit for examples shows no excessive color shifts for Portra 160VC, either way.
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Jun 28, 2012 04:18
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Haven't even received dipped my toes into the Yashica yet, but already I'm thinking about trading in my D200 kit for a Contax G1 45 f/2 
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Jun 28, 2012 04:45
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Santa is strapped posted:So I have Portra 160VC (120), expired in 2005. What can I expect in terms of colour shifts - plenty or not so much? I heard that the colours become muted, which I like. I shot a little expired 160VC a while back. I think it was dated for 2007, but I didn't experience very large shifts. Here's a few results, if you're interested. There's very light processing on these, but none of it had to do with the color palette.  Miniscule by Sam Tellman, on Flickr  Wasted by Sam Tellman, on Flickr  Hoop by Sam Tellman, on Flickr
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Jun 28, 2012 05:04
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That's awesome news! Thanks to both of you. Moonduck, did you rate the film at 120 (or slower than 160) like VomitOnLino suggested? I did see some people on flickr rating it at 125. I'll do 50/50 on the first roll, just to see how it goes since I have 4 more to use up.
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Jun 28, 2012 05:09
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I shot it at 160. Unless it's been stored really poorly, I doubt shooting it a little slower will make a huge difference. That said, playing around with the first roll to gauge where you're at never hurts.
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Jun 28, 2012 05:15
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Half of the fun of expired film is the unexpected results. Overexpose by half a stop and see what happens.
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Jun 28, 2012 06:39
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In my experience, all the Portra films are pretty stable. I haven't really experienced any color shifts on the few rolls of expired Portra I've shot.
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Jun 28, 2012 13:46
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I have some Portra 160NC that's a few years expired and I get some slight blue and purple casts especially in the shadows. Nothing too bad though.
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Jun 28, 2012 14:02
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| # ? May 12, 2024 18:11 |
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I have decade old 100t and the color desaturated and went a little purple
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Jun 28, 2012 15:58
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