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wattershed posted:I can completely deal with the overkill of having three different icons which lead me to the same place if it also means including the minutiae that precise brewers want. I'll take that trade-off any day. Hell, let me add my own ingredients from scratch and input their values, then let me export a recipe or shopping list to a text or doc file. I'd pay another $5 just for that.
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Jul 6, 2012 09:13
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Todd from hopville has rolled back to the previous version, he told me in an email where I had asked for partial boil features and whether they would come back. It looked pretty swish but we'll see what the finished product will be like. I like hopville.
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Jul 6, 2012 10:27
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crazyfish posted:Do this. I spent way too goddamn much on trying to find parts for the cooler that actually sealed worth a drat. My cooler seals now, but in retrospect I spent more on parts than the kit cost me. Seconding this, because I got the $25 Northern Brewer valve kit and it didn't leak a drop. Which was a relief because I forgot to test it. 
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Jul 6, 2012 13:21
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Jo3sh posted:I don't mean to slam it too harshly, it's a heck of a product for what it is, but I don't really have concrete suggestions like put this button there, eliminate this, add that. But yeah, he needs to read up on UI design for version 3. Just to be clear I didn't mean you were saying "this sux lol"  And I'm pretty sure you can add new ingredients. I'm at work right now so I don't have time to watch it but look through this tutorial.
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Jul 6, 2012 15:12
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Kaiho posted:Todd from hopville has rolled back to the previous version, That explains why it all seemed so familiar when I looked at it last night. He did say leading up to the cutover that it might be a mess for a while. zedprime posted:If you want complete and total control, a lot of the software solvers can be replaced with a few Excel formulas and some manufacturer data sheets. In fact, I use a spreadsheet I hacked together to do my water volume and temperature calculations.
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Jul 6, 2012 15:57
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In beersmith 2, there is a drop down menu up top that says "Insert" and under it are 'add hops' 'add grain' 'add yeast' etc. I don't have the first one installed anymore, but I do think beersmith 2 is relatively straight forward despite it's clunky interface.
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Jul 6, 2012 16:07
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When I (briefly) was looking at the BeerSmith site the other day trying to decide if I wanted to pay to upgrade I am pretty sure I saw that you could also add new things to lists with xml. Granted, doing it in the application is certainly a better feature but at least there is a way to add things. Fake edit: Just found this on the beersmith forums about this. Example: <HOPS>Hops <HOP> Hops Name: $HOP.NAME Hops Origin: $HOP.ORIGIN Alpha: $HOP.ALPHA % Type: $HOP.TYPE Beta: $HOP.BETA % Form: $HOP.FORM HSI: $HOP.HSI % per 6 months Inventory: $HOP.INVENTORY Notes: $HOP.NOTES </HOP> </HOPS> More info: http://www.beersmith.com/forum/index.php/topic,1465.0.html
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Jul 6, 2012 16:20
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You can add ingredients from within BeerSmith, it's pretty easy you just have to go to the Ingredients panel.
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Jul 6, 2012 16:49
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Woke up this morning to see that the brew I put in the primary last night had already sent krausen up the airlock in the 5 hours since pitching my starter  Boiling went really well last night, my stove was just able to reach a rolling boil with 14 L of water plus 5.5 lbs of LME, although I had to partially cover it. I never got any hot or cold break throughout boiling or chilling which seems odd. Hit an OG of 1.060 in the primary at 24L so overall I'm very happy at how this turned out!
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Jul 6, 2012 17:11
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There's really no hot break to speak of when using extract. How quickly were you able to get the wort from boiling to pitching temps? There should definitely be some visible "egg drop soup" cold break.
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Jul 6, 2012 17:36
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It took about 30 minutes to drop below 100*F, and a further 45 mins or so to reach a pitching temp of around 75*F. Now that I think about it there was some small particulates that match that description, but not very much.
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Jul 6, 2012 17:50
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Time to build a wort chiller. I think mine was a total of about 20 minutes and a trip for $35 to Home Depot, hooks up to any sink and the lines to and from it can be as long as you want. 5 gallons from boiling to 80F in ~15 minutes, and it'd be faster if I'd used a bigger pipe diameter.
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Jul 6, 2012 18:05
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If you build your own immersion chiller, make sure the ends are both outside the kettle and pointing very slightly downwards to prevent the inevitable hose leak from leaking tap water into the wort.
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Jul 6, 2012 18:59
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So a few months ago, I had an idea to create some badass homebrewing-inspired art work and sell the prints to other like-minded individuals who were tired of grocery store quality posters and mass-produced big brewery signage. Well, I ended up discussing the idea with my business parter and we decided to give it a shot. Very happy to present, Hoppy Press. A company dedicated to artisanal posters that only use premium inks, paper, and printing methods. We want to capture the spirit and quality of homebrewing on paper. We have some amazing artists lined up and a really great printing outfit. We're looking to launch in the next few weeks and are giving out a coupon to the first 200 to sign up for our launch e-mail.
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Jul 6, 2012 19:00
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Sounds cool, I'm in. Here's hoping it works out rad for you!
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Jul 6, 2012 19:23
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Right, boiling my first starter tonight. Smacked the 1242 American Ale II pack earlier. I'm doing it because I'm expecting a 1.075 original gravity from this recipe, though I'm only making 4 gallons. That should make little difference, right? As in, I'm pretty set on making it but will skip it because it's friday night and hassle etc if you guys think it won't be necessary. Going with Palmer's ratio of 500ml water and 1/2 cup of DME for the actual recipe. Other things this weekend: Bottling 2 gallons of mead, and making another batch of porter. Busy times. gce posted:So a few months ago, I had an idea to create some badass homebrewing-inspired art work and sell the prints to other like-minded individuals who were tired of grocery store quality posters and mass-produced big brewery signage. Well, I ended up discussing the idea with my business parter and we decided to give it a shot. Think you'll be shipping international?
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Jul 6, 2012 20:24
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Kaiho posted:Right, boiling my first starter tonight. Smacked the 1242 American Ale II pack earlier. I'm doing it because I'm expecting a 1.075 original gravity from this recipe, though I'm only making 4 gallons. That should make little difference, right? As in, I'm pretty set on making it but will skip it because it's friday night and hassle etc if you guys think it won't be necessary. If your starting gravity is 1.075 you not only need a starter, but that's pretty close to (but not necessarily into) the range of wanting to step it up or use a larger starter. Angry Grimace fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Jul 6, 2012 |
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Jul 6, 2012 20:27
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gce posted:So a few months ago, I had an idea to create some badass homebrewing-inspired art work and sell the prints to other like-minded individuals who were tired of grocery store quality posters and mass-produced big brewery signage. Well, I ended up discussing the idea with my business parter and we decided to give it a shot. This sounds pretty cool, I've had this in my 'Stuff to Buy' folder for ages, so if you doing something similar I am definitely interested. Will it just be posters or are you doing labels and such as well?
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Jul 6, 2012 20:35
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Kaiho posted:
Possibly in the near future. Our first print may be kept domestic just so we can work out any minor kinks.
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Jul 6, 2012 20:39
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Sirotan posted:This sounds pretty cool, I've had this in my 'Stuff to Buy' folder for ages, so if you doing something similar I am definitely interested. Will it just be posters or are you doing labels and such as well? We're just doing posters as of right now. We've had a lot of interest/feedback in labels, though. We'll see what the future holds. 
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Jul 6, 2012 20:40
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I've asked in this thread before, but possibly it was passed over or no one knows: Anyone brew a keller beer before? After watching Northern Brewer's video on double decoctions, I really wanted to make one, especially because the video talked about serving it young so it would be a month from grain to glass instead of two like a normal lager. However, everything else I've been reading about them says it is a beer that is aged in oak barrels.
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Jul 6, 2012 20:50
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Zakath posted:I've asked in this thread before, but possibly it was passed over or no one knows: I don't think the actual maturation time has anything to do with the beer style itself, but it's a pretty obscure style that I have very little experience with beyond doing some basic 1 am internet research after I watched that particular segment. The only actual style markers I'm aware of is aging in un-capped barrels which results in cloudy, uncarbed lager. Angry Grimace fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Jul 6, 2012 |
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Jul 6, 2012 20:55
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Angry Grimace posted:If your starting gravity is 1.075 you not only need a starter, but that's pretty close to (but not necessarily into) the range of wanting to step it up or use a larger starter. Okay that's good information, thanks. Might up the starter volume then! This is my first ever 7.5% IPA in full west coast style. Well, except for the Nelson Sauvin.
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Jul 6, 2012 20:59
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Kaiho posted:Okay that's good information, thanks. Might up the starter volume then! This is my first ever 7.5% IPA in full west coast style. Well, except for the Nelson Sauvin. If it were me personally doing the West Coast IPA style, I would be just pitching US-05 packs since US05 is the same yeast as 1056 and WLP001 and its cheaper/faster/easier. I'm a total US05 fanboy though. Edit: I'm actually surprised that playing around with that pitching calculator suggests one dry yeast pack is enough for that high of a gravity - I didn't think the cell viability was actually that high in dry yeast packs. I would have imagine you'd need a pack and a half or even two. Angry Grimace fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Jul 6, 2012 |
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Jul 6, 2012 21:05
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Jo3sh posted:I don't mean to slam it too harshly, it's a heck of a product for what it is, but I don't really have concrete suggestions like put this button there, eliminate this, add that. But yeah, he needs to read up on UI design for version 3. I took a look at the iphone app he is developing at the NHC a couple of weeks ago and how it synced via the beercloud (or whatever he's calling it) to your desktop and I was instantly sold. I hate lugging out the laptop on brewday but if I could just record what I need via my phone I'm going to be in heaven.
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Jul 6, 2012 21:15
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My wife has asked that the next batch be mead from local honey. The method will be warm (bolied/cooled) water, honey, nutrients, and yeast. How much honey and what yeast strain should I think about for a lightly sweet mead?
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Jul 7, 2012 05:26
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Jo3sh posted:My wife has asked that the next batch be mead from local honey. The method will be warm (bolied/cooled) water, honey, nutrients, and yeast. Just going off the Compleat Meadmaker and not my personal experience. The recipe for a 5 gallon medium show mead is 12.5 to 15 pounds of honey for an OG 1.094-1.112 and FG 1.010. Lalvin D-47 yeast (Cotes du Rhone), alcohol 12-14% and temps 50-86 F. I finished my last extract kit tonight despite the wind blowing out my burner a few times. I need to get back to making mead while I learn more about all-grain.
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Jul 7, 2012 07:15
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Jo3sh posted:My wife has asked that the next batch be mead from local honey. The method will be warm (bolied/cooled) water, honey, nutrients, and yeast. I listened to a Jamil show with Ken the mead guru and he swore against boiling. Also orange blossom is apparently the way to go.
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Jul 7, 2012 08:29
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Just going off the Compleat Meadmaker and not my personal experience. The recipe for a 5 gallon medium show mead is 12.5 to 15 pounds of honey for an OG 1.094-1.112 and FG 1.010. Lalvin D-47 yeast (Cotes du Rhone), alcohol 12-14% and temps 50-86 F. I keep meaning to make a mead for my mother who really wants some, but I never seem to actually do it. I rather assume it's not particularly difficult?
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Jul 7, 2012 08:46
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Angry Grimace posted:I keep meaning to make a mead for my mother who really wants some, but I never seem to actually do it. I rather assume it's not particularly difficult? You can mix the must and pitch inside of 30 minutes. Mead just takes a long time. It takes about a year to get really good.
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Jul 7, 2012 12:41
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Kaiho posted:I listened to a Jamil show with Ken the mead guru and he swore against boiling. Also orange blossom is apparently the way to go. Yep, that's the plan. We have a lot of citrus around here, so I am planning to go up to an apiary I know of and see what they have. I am only going to be boiling the water, not the must. Given that the water is safe to drink, I could probably get away without even that.
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Jul 7, 2012 15:39
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drewhead posted:You can mix the must and pitch inside of 30 minutes. Mead just takes a long time. It takes about a year to get really good. Right. You'll have less off flavors if you treat the yeast right by giving it nutrients. I use Go-Ferm for rehydrating and Fermaid K during the fermentation. I found that the Joe's Ancient Orange Mead made with regular baker's yeast was drinkable after only a few months with surprisingly good flocculation.
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Jul 7, 2012 17:05
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I just got an awesome gift of a million spices and odds and ends. Heather, chamomile, juniper berries, cardamom, bitter orange peel, and more that I'm forgetting. Anyone have any beers that they really like with these ingredients?
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Jul 7, 2012 17:37
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You could look into brewing a gruit beer. I know heather is used in them.
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Jul 7, 2012 17:55
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wafflesnsegways posted:juniper berries Sahti!
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Jul 7, 2012 18:31
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Angry Grimace posted:I don't think Kellerbier is necessarily supposed to served as young as they do straight from the Ayinger brewery (which is what he was talking about in that NB video), but typically the oak barrel aging refers to the fact that they do lager the beer in oak barrels that don't have a fully sealed bung, so they end up very uncarbonated and cloudy. I'm probably going to develop a recipe and give it a try in the next few weeks. I'm thinking that I will use oak cubes with some level of toast to them to recreate the barrel aging. I was wondering if you can make an oak tincture with vodka, similar to other spice tinctures.
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Jul 7, 2012 20:28
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Zakath posted:I was wondering if you can make an oak tincture with vodka, similar to other spice tinctures. That's colloquially known as 'whiskey.'
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Jul 7, 2012 20:32
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Zakath posted:How does the lack of a full relate to the beer's cloudiness?
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Jul 7, 2012 22:30
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Right. You'll have less off flavors if you treat the yeast right by giving it nutrients. I use Go-Ferm for rehydrating and Fermaid K during the fermentation. I found that the Joe's Ancient Orange Mead made with regular baker's yeast was drinkable after only a few months with surprisingly good flocculation. Yep. I use Go Ferm and Fermaid K with D47 yeast, and it's been great. Healthy yeast tastes better. I also don't boil my honey.
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Jul 8, 2012 13:46
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Sorry to keep posting, but I have a question about my yeast starter. I made it on Friday night but the drat brew order containing the Simcoe I'm going to be bittering with hasn't arrived yet. I might get it tomorrow (Friday). Currently the starter is just sitting on the counter, half white slurry and half beer. Should I refrigerate it until tomorrow evening? Or would the cooling/heating up of the starter prior to pitching actually harm it? Should I pitch more wort, easy enough to boil some up? I want to make sure I have the most viable stuff. This post brought to you by being pissed off at the redelivery schedules of English courier firms.
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Jul 8, 2012 14:59
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