|
Has anybody else been interested by Railhammer pickups? They're the brainchild of Joe Naylor, the founder of Reverend Guitars. I've been listening to the YouTube demo a bunch, and I'm actually on the verge of splurging on them as soon as I have the money. Actually, I'd probably just get the bridge pup. I'm probably going to get a GFS Mean 90 to put in the neck of my AL-3000. By chance I saw a video of Joe Walsh, and was surprised to see him playing my dream guitar, a Duesenberg Starplayer TV, which also has the P90/bucker combo. It sounded great. If/when I take my guitar in I'll be talking to my guitar tech about my options. I'm also thinking about getting the railhammer coilsplit (you can see my comment on the video, to which Naylor responded himself - pretty cool), and whether I might get the p90 a push/pull to reverse phase to cancel hum when the 'bucker is in single coil... I'm getting way ahead of myself, but it's a lot of fun to think about.
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2012 17:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 17:53 |
|
|
syntaxfunction posted:After I learn some basics I'm looking to get an electric too. I've been eyeing the Schecter SGR 006 because it seems like good quality, looks pretty, and most importantly has a string through/no tremelo bridge. I'm not a fan of LPs (I don't like the way they sit when I've tried them) but I really don't want to mess with a tremelo system I won't use. And that cuts down a lot of my choices because it seems like every beginner electric has a friggin' tremelo. You can block most trems anyway https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkj8p4Z3Rjg And basically you have a guitar with a trem that doesn't do anything, so you can get whatever you want! Honestly you probably wouldn't want to get one with a locking tremolo (like a Floyd Rose) if you're never going to use it, since it's more awkward to string and tune up, but a regular trem won't make your life any harder and it'll give you options if you ever want to unblock it baka kaba fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Jul 1, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2012 23:11
|
|
|
I've started noticing a slight buzzing in my 6th string when playing it open (also on the 2nd but it only happens sometimes when I play an F chord so that's probably me sucking). I tried adjusting the saddles a bit, and noticed that the action in the higher frets is actually quite high already (around 3mm?), and it's not even all along the neck. I dug a bit and read somewhere a way of checking if the truss rod, putting a capo on the 1st fret, pushing down on the last one and measuring the distance to the neck at the 7th fret, and well, it's already touching the frets at the 7th if I do that. I know the answer is going to be "go have it set up", but I'll have to do a bit of research as I don't know good luthiers around here, but in the meanwhile, is there something else I should check? Is what I described the correct way to check the adjustment for the truss rod? Cheers.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 03:25
|
|
|
3mm is very low action. Do you mean 3cm? I'd just bring it to a guitar center or something. You only need a very good luthier if need to repair damage on an antique instrument or something. For basic action adjustment or something you really just need a regular guitar tech. Salt Fish fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Jul 2, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 03:45
|
|
|
Salt Fish posted:3mm is very low action. Do you mean 3cm? No, 3mm, around a tenth of an inch. 3cm is 1.2 inches, I'm not sure how that would even look.  I'll call a friend of mine who is more savvy than I am to see if he knows someone I can take it to.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 04:02
|
|
|
So I'll probably be posting a lot of questions while I'm learning, if that's fine by you guys. I can't afford a tutor so JustinGuitar it is! I'm trying to focus on one thing a day unless I'm really comfortable with how it is (I'm not worried about learning quickly). So the first lesson is a D chord and I already have a problem/question. The finger pattern plain doesn't work for me. My third finger always mutes the e string no matter how high I try and push it up. I have, however, discovered that using my pinky instead makes it easy as hell. Is this poor form and I should hammer away trying to use my third finger or is this one of those "everyone's different" moments? Edit: So I just kept at it with my third finger and it's getting easier to the point where it all rings out neatly half the time. Learning! syntaxfunction fucked around with this message at 09:25 on Jul 2, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 08:29
|
|
|
syntaxfunction posted:So I'll probably be posting a lot of questions while I'm learning, if that's fine by you guys. I can't afford a tutor so JustinGuitar it is! I'm trying to focus on one thing a day unless I'm really comfortable with how it is (I'm not worried about learning quickly). I tend to cheat though and barre with my first finger
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 13:26
|
|
|
syntaxfunction posted:Edit: So I just kept at it with my third finger and it's getting easier to the point where it all rings out neatly half the time. Learning! The first few chords are the hardest, not because they're complicated but because you keep thinking that you just can't do them and you think it's physically impossible for your fingers to do it and yadda yadda. I started out (with JustinGuitar as well) around January, and I kept loving up E, but as you've seen, it starts sounding a bit better every time you pick up the guitar and eventually you'll get it right every time without even thinking about it. Until you hit C. And then F. gently caress F. /edit: I don't know if it's your case, but I realized that I was using too much strength when trying to form chords and that screwed up my hand position most of the times. Remember to put your fingers as close to the fret as possible and try to figure out what's the minimum pressure you need to apply for it to sound clean so you don't overdo it. duckfarts posted:I tend to cheat though and barre with my first finger How the hell have I never thought of this. 
Edmond Dantes fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Jul 2, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 15:19
|
|
|
I'm looking to buy a nice little 1x10 or 1x12 combo amp for my apartment just to gently caress around with. My friend suggested a Marshall Class5 5W (http://www.musiciansfriend.com/amplifiers-effects/marshall-class5-5w-1x10-tube-guitar-combo-amp/h73029), but before he sent that I was kind of leaning towards a solid state. Any suggestions? I like playing lots of different styles, so I'd like whatever it is to have a wide variety of tones available at lower levels as I have old codger apartment neighbors.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 19:37
|
|
|
I will never not recommend some version of the Roland Cube for nearly every purpose: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/amplifiers-effects/roland-cube-80xl-80w-1x12-guitar-combo-amp That one's 80 watts, but there's other lower wattage ones. Wattage isn't really that big of a deal with solid state amps in my experience, so if you're into it, just get whatever one has the best feature/speaker size/price ratios. As far as tube amps go, there's the Blackstar HT-5 line: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/amplifiers-effects/blackstar-ht-series-ht-5r-tube-guitar-combo-amp The HT-5R has onboard reverb, but if you don't want that, go for the HT-5C. The 2011 5C has a 10 inch speaker, while the 2012 model has the 12" one.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 19:44
|
|
|
If you look at the 'new gear' thread, we were just discussing how nice the Vox DA5 was. Even for a solid state. Shame it's discontinued. But there's something new out there and I'd like reviews on it. It's only a 6.5", but, well, good enough for apartment fuckery. Me from the other thread posted:Anyhow. The point I was making, was that I got a e-mail from Fender trying to sell me things. They've got a new modelling amp. Warcabbit fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Jul 2, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 20:07
|
|
|
Warcabbit posted:If you look at the 'new gear' thread, we were just discussing how nice the Vox DA5 was. Even for a solid state. Shame it's discontinued. The DA5 is discontinued but the Mini 3 is pretty great for a small modelling amp, especially for $100.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 20:32
|
|
|
One of the nice things about the DA5, to my experience, was the life the Cs gave it. The AAs the Mini3 have are nice, but I don't think they'd last as long. (Also, believe it or not, I like the heft they give the amp.) The Mini3 is great for a practice amp, but I'm not so sure it'd step up to the plate the way a DA5 would, for recording.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 21:04
|
|
|
Stupid question: I've decided I want to buy a really nice, large-bodied, full-sounding, steel-string acoustic guitar. I'm prepared to spend a bit of money on it (maybe up to £1000). It's ridiculous because I've been playing guitar for ten years, but I barely know what sort of brands are out there or what I should be looking for. Should I go into shops and say this and play whatever they give me? I feel I'd rather get something second-hand, not just because it's cheaper, but because I want something that feels a bit used and loved and worn in, rather than something that smells of glue. How should I do this?
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 22:00
|
|
|
Thanks for the suggestions all. I went into Guitar Center after I posted and played around a bit on a few amps, particularly the Marshall I mentioned earlier as well as a Vox AC15C1. I'm really digging the Vox even though I said I wasn't really looking for a tube amp. I'll check out the suggestions next time I'm in the store.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2012 03:34
|
|
|
Alman posted:I'm really digging the Vox even though I said I wasn't really looking for a tube amp.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2012 04:05
|
|
|
Got a slight buzz when playing low E string on my Taylor 214ce; took it into the shop, the guy said it was because of the way I was putting the strings into the bridge pins. He fixed it and it was fine; however I am clearly doing something wrong because when I changed the strings the other day the buzz came back. The tech said that the ball end of the string should be as far up the bridge pin as possible. But this seems almost physically impossible to me; at the moment the ball end of my low E string is at or near the bottom of the pin (i felt under the bridge to check). I totally see how this would result in a buzz, but I don't understand how to get the end up any higher into the pin, it just doesn't seem big enough. Am I missing something here?
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2012 01:52
|
|
|
I've experienced that problem, mostly with stringing new-to-me acoustics. Sometimes you will be winding a string and get it nearly in tune, then *THUNK* you lose the tension. When you put the string in the bridge-hole, and replace the bridge pin, the string's little circle anchor shouldn't necessarily be IN the pin groove but sort of overlapping it, so that the string fills the groove and the circle anchor gets pulled right up against the bone/wood of the pin/guitar acting as the choke point. I typically do it all with finesse the first time lining the string up, pushing the pin down while pulling the string taught. Then I give it a really good yank/pull where I worry the ridges of the string might cut my hand while applying a somewhat equal amount of pressure to the pin, and call it a day. The low-e is the trickiest one, I try to think of it as like a J shape or fishing hook, where all that grippy string is curving into the pin groove, then pull the string & press the pin in at the same time. Awkward chart. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2012 02:19
|
|
|
^^^ At about 4:40 in, the dude in this video demonstrates / explains this pretty well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIzVdvzn8d8
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2012 03:20
|
|
|
This is all perfect! Thanks guys.
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2012 03:22
|
|
|
revolther posted:I've experienced that problem, mostly with stringing new-to-me acoustics. Sometimes you will be winding a string and get it nearly in tune, then *THUNK* you lose the tension. When you put the string in the bridge-hole, and replace the bridge pin, the string's little circle anchor shouldn't necessarily be IN the pin groove but sort of overlapping it, so that the string fills the groove and the circle anchor gets pulled right up against the bone/wood of the pin/guitar acting as the choke point. Is that really how you're supposed to string acoustics? I've been doing it wrong for like 7 years.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 05:47
|
|
|
RetardedRobots posted:...See if you can find a Vox AC4TV... Seconding this suggestion. It's a fantastic little amp for home use and even studio recording. My main amp is a Fender Hotrod Deluxe (which I love, after a speaker switch and a re-tube) and I wanted something smaller to use at home. Being able to knock the wattage down through the selector switch lets you get some nice, natural sounding overdrive without earbleeding volume (which is miles better than the sound you'll get from most 'overdrive' channels on other amps). It's actually *almost* loud enough for use in a band setting, too. Shouldn't be too hard to find one in a store to knock around.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 05:56
|
|
|
Epi Lepi posted:Is that really how you're supposed to string acoustics? I've been doing it wrong for like 7 years. How've you been doing it?
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 06:17
|
|
|
muike posted:How've you been doing it? With the ball end at the end of the peg instead of making a J shape like that pic.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 06:29
|
|
|
Hey guys, in a few months it looks like I will be playing a few "shows" (basements and open mics that allow bands I guess?). I still only have my practice amp, and I am in the market for a new one. Everyone I have talked to has said that a 35v amp should work; but I realize that 1. voltage doesn't equal loudness 2. I don't know if the people making the recommendation know that there will be no PA at places I am going. I am thinking about just buying the same exact model of the solid state Marshall our other guitarist was using, just because I know it did what I needed.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 16:41
|
|
|
Epi Lepi posted:With the ball end at the end of the peg instead of making a J shape like that pic. Shouldn't make a difference. by the time you get the tension all the way up it will probably pull the excess length tight up against the underside of the bridge. If your wound string pegs pop out while you're tuning up a new set, that excess length is probably why.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 17:54
|
|
|
rivid posted:Hey guys, in a few months it looks like I will be playing a few "shows" (basements and open mics that allow bands I guess?). I still only have my practice amp, and I am in the market for a new one. Everyone I have talked to has said that a 35v amp should work; but I realize that 1. voltage doesn't equal loudness 2. I don't know if the people making the recommendation know that there will be no PA at places I am going. I am thinking about just buying the same exact model of the solid state Marshall our other guitarist was using, just because I know it did what I needed. You want to look at watts, not volts, and even then it depends in part on how loud the drummer is. Solid state amps are also quieter per watt than tube amps. Tube amps change tone based on how much you're pushing them, so a 30 watt tube amp running at or near max volume sounds different than a 100 watt tube amp at the same volume. This can be good or bad depending on the sound you want All that said, a lot of people do small gigs with 30 watt tube amps and they can work fine.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 20:18
|
|
|
Whoops yeah wattage not volts. I've made that mistake more than once. :/ I didn't know that about tubes though, that's really interesting. It looks like what I need is going to cost more tan I can spend and money is pretty tight right now so I am probably just gonna go along with whatever I can afford.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 01:28
|
|
|
Is there a name for when people do what looks like an F-chord shape and just move it around the neck?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 08:34
|
|
|
appropriatemetaphor posted:Is there a name for when people do what looks like an F-chord shape and just move it around the neck? That's just a barre chord using the F major shape, I think. You can slide it up and down the neck to play the major chords without otherwise changing your fingering.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 08:59
|
|
|
Edmond Dantes posted:And then F. gently caress F. ibntumart posted:That's just a barre chord using the F major shape, I think. You can slide it up and down the neck to play the major chords without otherwise changing your fingering.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 09:10
|
|
|
Which chords am I playing as I move it around? It is whatever the "root" note is? That'd be whatever note the 6th string is right?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 17:30
|
|
|
appropriatemetaphor posted:Which chords am I playing as I move it around? It is whatever the "root" note is? That'd be whatever note the 6th string is right? Yes, hence it being an E shape because with no barre it's an E chord, which is the lowest string. And, of course, F with the first fret barred.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 17:47
|
|
|
Also the barre chords are usually the second variation of the normal chords on here: http://www.all-guitar-chords.com/
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 17:49
|
|
|
Most of the time the lowest note is the root. There are inversions and other things that mess with that but those will have names that tell you what the new bass note is.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 17:50
|
|
|
I play just for fun, so I'm wondering if it is worth spending a lot of money on efx pedals or whether I can get basically the same sounds running my guitar through my laptop and connecting it to an amp (I have a few program with digital efx pedals.) if I would get a much better sound from real pedals, what is the basic and affordable set I should get (e.g. distortion, overdrive etc.)
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 18:44
|
|
|
silvergoose posted:Yes, hence it being an E shape because with no barre it's an E chord, which is the lowest string. And, of course, F with the first fret barred. Ah cool, things are making sense now! Dan Hollis posted:I play just for fun, so I'm wondering if it is worth spending a lot of money on efx pedals or whether I can get basically the same sounds running my guitar through my laptop and connecting it to an amp (I have a few program with digital efx pedals.) if I would get a much better sound from real pedals, what is the basic and affordable set I should get (e.g. distortion, overdrive etc.) One advantage is that you can easily turn the effect on and off while playing. I have a modelling amp (I think) where it fakes different pedal effects and it'd be nice to be able to easily kill effects.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 19:05
|
|
|
appropriatemetaphor posted:Ah cool, things are making sense now! Basically if you learn the notes on the bottom string, you can move the F barre chord to the relevant fret and get any major chord you want - it works for any shape too, so move an F minor barre to the 5th fret (A) and you get an Am chord, or move the F7 shape to get A7, and so on. (slightly more complicated stuff below) Usually people learn two kinds, the F shape (or some people call it the E shape), or root 6 barre (since the root of the chord is the note on the 6th string), and the B (or A) shape, or root 5 barre, where the note on the 5th string names the chord. They're what people usually refer to as 'barre chords', and if you play the lowest two or three notes of those shapes you get power chords, for rockin'. But you can actually barre lots of different shapes: http://www.justinguitar.com/en/TB-030-CAGEDsystemVid.php What makes a certain chord is the relationships between the different notes, the intervals - like the distances between them. If you move the entire shape up or down the neck, you're still maintaining the same relationships by moving every note the same distance. But if there are open strings, those notes will stay where they are, and their relationships to all the other moving notes will change. So when you barre, you're basically bringing all the open string notes along for the ride, so all the relationships stay the same. That's why an F is basically an E chord, every note moved one fret higher, and a barre thrown on to move all the open string notes to the first fret Dan Hollis posted:I play just for fun, so I'm wondering if it is worth spending a lot of money on efx pedals or whether I can get basically the same sounds running my guitar through my laptop and connecting it to an amp (I have a few program with digital efx pedals.) if I would get a much better sound from real pedals, what is the basic and affordable set I should get (e.g. distortion, overdrive etc.) What would bother me most about that setup is the lag between playing and hearing it - depends on your hardware though. I know a lot of people like professional stuff like Amplitube (which has a free version), so you should get some decent sounds if you're using good plugins, but honestly the best thing you could do is look at some demo videos on youtube, and maybe go try a few out at a guitar store. Your other option is a multi-fx, which will give you lots of stuff to play with. But yeah, being able to turn stuff on and off is nice, you can get expression pedals too (to control various things with your foot), and it's there ready to go when inspiration strikes
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 20:21
|
|
|
Dan Hollis posted:I play just for fun, so I'm wondering if it is worth spending a lot of money on efx pedals or whether I can get basically the same sounds running my guitar through my laptop and connecting it to an amp (I have a few program with digital efx pedals.) if I would get a much better sound from real pedals, what is the basic and affordable set I should get (e.g. distortion, overdrive etc.) Good advice is above. If you do want to start getting pedals, Danelectro makes cheap and pretty good quality pedals. I have had a few, they were nice. I've also heard good things about guitarfetish and joyo pedals, but I've never used them.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 21:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 17:53 |
|
|
I need a new guitar amp. I play Strats. I want something that's good enough to record in my budget studio setup, but not so enormous it will literally kill the people who live upstairs. At the same time, ideally it'd be big enough to gig with, but small enough to carry to gigs. Thinking Fender Jazz Amp or a Vox AC-something. Thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 14:25
|
|