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Oh god drat I didn't realize each one of those was a 5 pack, that's pretty awesome. All I have is a few rolls of Portra 400 and Ektar 100 left in my fridge I need to restock. And never again with Ektar.
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 01:54 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 06:24 |
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QPZIL posted:Oh god drat I didn't realize each one of those was a 5 pack, that's pretty awesome. Ektar is awesome
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 01:59 |
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eggsovereasy posted:Ektar is awesome As long as you're shooting in bright sunlight. And as long as you don't overexpose. Or underexpose. And as long as you don't need the dynamic range you get from other negative film...
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 02:03 |
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MrBlandAverage posted:As long as you're shooting in bright sunlight. And as long as you don't overexpose. Or underexpose. And as long as you don't need the dynamic range you get from other negative film... This is correct. Ektar basically has slide-film latitude.
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 06:32 |
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Paul MaudDib posted:This is correct. Ektar basically has slide-film latitude. Ektar is the only slide film Kodak still makes.
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 07:53 |
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8th-samurai posted:Ektar is the only slide film Kodak still makes. Maybe that's why they canned all their other slide film...
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 08:53 |
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alkanphel posted:Maybe that's why they canned all their other slide film... No it's because after Kodachrome was discontinued there weren't any Kodak slide films worth buying.
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 09:09 |
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8th-samurai posted:No it's because after Kodachrome was discontinued there weren't any Kodak slide films worth buying. I cannot argue with that!
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 09:19 |
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So I just bought a roll of Kodachrome 64 today... I've got some Ektachrome Panther and Ektar 100 coming soon too but was the Kodachrome 64 a complete waste?
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 18:38 |
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It sure was.
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 18:44 |
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Quantum of Phallus posted:So I just bought a roll of Kodachrome 64 today... I've got some Ektachrome Panther and Ektar 100 coming soon too but was the Kodachrome 64 a complete waste? Nope. You own a piece of photographic history...that no one can develop so don't bother shooting it.
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 18:45 |
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Bragging rights only I guess
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 19:02 |
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8th-samurai posted:Nope. You own a piece of photographic history...that no one can develop so don't bother shooting it. That no one can develop right now. There are some insane people making decent progress at a replacement for K-14 process. Not that I'd get your hopes up. But you might possibly maybe be able to shoot and process Kodachrome again in the possibly-distant future. Myself, I'd jam the film in the freezer for shooting in that fairytale future.
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 19:06 |
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Molten Llama posted:That no one can develop right now. There are some insane people making decent progress at a replacement for K-14 process. Unless you have access to a full photo lab and know enough about the development process to jerry rig the necessary k-14 chemicals, that roll will never be developed as a color film. You can, however, develop it as black and white, though it looks kind of lovely
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 20:06 |
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So here is the first scan from the expired Portra 160VC. Not bad at all for a 9 year old film! (I said it expired in 2005 but it's actually 2003). Shot it at 160, like it's no biggie.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 00:13 |
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Paul MaudDib posted:Nikon lenses? Are you kidding? Except for the Pre-Ai thing (overcome by a KEH $60 <= Nikkormat FT2 body), Nikon's lenses are super compatible. You can throw a modern supertele/superfast wide lens onto that same body as long as it's got the prongs. And if you're willing to reach back to Pre-AI lenses, the glass gets pretty cheap. There's a lot of slightly-slow (f/3.5-4) and/or early design versions which can be had for cheap as well. They're absolutely great for your average shooter, the quality probably exceeds the kit lens on digital. At every point through it's history, Nikon has been a pro brand. "pro" for the 60s will more than suffice for most people. I have been shown the light. Thank you. KEH isn't really an option for me though. Their cross-border shipping costs are absurd. On a semi-related note, I managed to inadvertently disassemble the film-winding mechanism this afternoon (cranked it the wrong way), and just now put it back together using nothing but my intuition. I lost my roll in doing so (and I had just finished it off), but it's a victory for me. The Gooniest Goon fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Jul 7, 2012 |
# ? Jul 7, 2012 05:51 |
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I've been lusting for a cheapo Soviet Leica clone lately (after getting my hands on a Zenit TTL and realizing that "hey, this isn't so bad after all"). What do you guys recommend? My friend has a FED-3 that he seems happy with it, I'm looking at one of those, a FED-2 or maybe a Zorki. Any thoughts?
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 08:19 |
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nemoulette posted:I've been lusting for a cheapo Soviet Leica clone lately (after getting my hands on a Zenit TTL and realizing that "hey, this isn't so bad after all"). What do you guys recommend? My friend has a FED-3 that he seems happy with it, I'm looking at one of those, a FED-2 or maybe a Zorki. Any thoughts? I like my Zorki 6 from Fedka.com just be careful winding it as some people have issues tearing film. Be prepared to align your rangefinder though just in case.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 09:29 |
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Zorki 4K is probably the safest bet. It's a smooth-operating, solid piece of machinery. The other models are chancier, quality-wise. The 4K was one of those things where they made a bazillion of them because the design was good enough and they left it alone.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 09:54 |
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I got my FED-2 from fedka.com too, along with a "new old stock" Jupiter 8-1, really happy with it. Just have to keep in mind the winding/shutter peculiarities.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 11:21 |
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I've got a couple of Zenit E's and on the one I've tried to use, which has a perfectly fine body, the light meter seems to be really insensitive. It'll tell you to go wide open unless you're in really bright light, is this a known problem with the E or is my light meter fecked?
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 11:27 |
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Quantum of Phallus posted:I've got a couple of Zenit E's and on the one I've tried to use, which has a perfectly fine body, the light meter seems to be really insensitive. It'll tell you to go wide open unless you're in really bright light, is this a known problem with the E or is my light meter fecked? It's boned. The Zenit E has a selenium cell meter and they lose sensitivity with time and exposure to light.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 12:27 |
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Aww nuts, it's in perfect condition otherwise.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 12:39 |
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HPL posted:Zorki 4K is probably the safest bet. It's a smooth-operating, solid piece of machinery. The other models are chancier, quality-wise. The 4K was one of those things where they made a bazillion of them because the design was good enough and they left it alone. http://youtu.be/Nyt4MqJkp7I
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 16:23 |
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nemoulette posted:Looks neat (non-K version), thanks! No no. Get the 4K, not the non-K version. The non-K uses a knob for film winding which is really annoying because sometimes you'll get a camera where it's smooth winding but then you get one that's gritty and hard to turn and you'll get sore fingers if you shoot a lot. The lever winder on the 4K is far, far superior because it's easier and faster to use. The only advantage the non-K has is that it has strap lugs.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 17:48 |
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I really want to try something like the Zorki 6 and the prices seem really right, but my only hesitation is having an entirely unmetered camera. Until now I've been a primarily Aperture Priority shooter, and the thought of switching to Sunny-16 for all my guesstimation is just a little scary. I'm talking for walkabout "gotta get that pic oops its gone" shooting, not "hey I've got time to sit and think about this exposure for five minutes, maybe whip out my pocket light meter" shooting.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 18:30 |
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HPL posted:No no. Get the 4K, not the non-K version. The non-K uses a knob for film winding which is really annoying because sometimes you'll get a camera where it's smooth winding but then you get one that's gritty and hard to turn and you'll get sore fingers if you shoot a lot. The lever winder on the 4K is far, far superior because it's easier and faster to use. The only advantage the non-K has is that it has strap lugs.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 18:35 |
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Zombotron posted:I have been shown the light. Thank you. KEH isn't really an option for me though. Their cross-border shipping costs are absurd. I'll cross-ship for people, and fill the box with cheap American film if you want too.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 18:47 |
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Ektar 100 is nice but drat it I can't get the CanoScan 8800 to scan my negatives nicely. Also, scratches that don't turn up on the prints seem to turn up when I scan the negatives, what gives?
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# ? Jul 8, 2012 19:52 |
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So I think I'm over my no-aperture-priority fear and am about to order the Zorki 6 from fedka. Any reason I should be looking at a 4K instead? Anyone have both/used both that could offer some insight? Not sure if this belongs in the gear thread or here, but I figure you guys would be more familiar with these old socialist baddies.
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# ? Jul 9, 2012 14:30 |
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Martytoof posted:So I think I'm over my no-aperture-priority fear and am about to order the Zorki 6 from fedka. Any reason I should be looking at a 4K instead? Anyone have both/used both that could offer some insight? Was looking at the Zorki 6 earlier today actually, seems pretty nice, let me know how you find it.
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# ? Jul 9, 2012 14:45 |
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Quantum of Phallus posted:Was looking at the Zorki 6 earlier today actually, seems pretty nice, let me know how you find it. I emailed Fedka to see if he'd switch the rigid Industar-50 with the collapsible one and how much more that would cost, but if I don't hear back from him by EOD I'll order with the fixed lens and worry about it later. I mean a camera with a lens for $99; at that price I can afford to experiment. I suppose I could find one cheaper on eBay, but I generally dislike eBay and I'd rather go with fedka's solid reputation for standing behind his sales. I'll definitely post back once I receive it with as much detail as I can. e: Zorki ordered. May god have mercy on my commie camera owning rear end e2: In the meantime, I got a Yashica Eletro 35 GSN from Paul MaudDib and I'm really anxious to dig into it to fix the Pad of Death and get out on the street SHOOTIN'! some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Jul 10, 2012 |
# ? Jul 9, 2012 14:51 |
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Martytoof posted:I mean a camera with a lens for $99; at that price I can afford to experiment. I've been looking at them on eBay for about €40-70 as Buy it Now auctions. I hate bidding on stuff but I've never had a problem with Buy it Now.
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# ? Jul 9, 2012 14:55 |
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Any opinions on Fuji Reala? It's the cheapest decent 100 ISO film on Adorama, and I'm about to take a vacation where I need to stay on a budget
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# ? Jul 9, 2012 15:01 |
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QPZIL posted:Any opinions on Fuji Reala? It's the cheapest decent 100 ISO film on Adorama, and I'm about to take a vacation where I need to stay on a budget I get magenta casts in anything other than direct undiffused sunlight, so for my purposes it's in the unusable category along with Ektar. Is your vacation far away enough that you could get some lightly expired Portra 160NC off eBay instead?
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# ? Jul 9, 2012 16:10 |
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In my opinion, the Zorki 4K is a better camera than the 6. The 6 has nice features like a hinged back but the 4K is a better-operating machine. It also has a far better viewfinder. The 4K's viewfinder is big and bright as Russian rangefinders go.
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# ? Jul 10, 2012 01:54 |
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Welp, too late for now. Gotta live with the 6 until next paycheck
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# ? Jul 10, 2012 05:00 |
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Where do you guys buy chemicals from? I'm trying to develop some Fuji Neopan 100ss. I hear that D-76 is a good process...? I've got a developing can and scanner. Just need the chemicals.
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# ? Jul 10, 2012 05:59 |
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There are/were two camera shops in my town that sold chemicals, and the big chain store (Henry's) doesn't stock any chemicals anymore (at least mine doesn't), but can order just about anything I want. I actually prefer it over ordering from the internet. I'll support the small store if they have what I want or can order what I need. Otherwise I'll check the chain store, and if THEY can't order it, only then will I turn to the internet. I'm not sure why I prefer this. Probably just an excuse to go to the camera store and geek out. So basically I guess check your yellow pages or google for camera stores in your area. The less "chain", the better chance they have of stocking some chemicals.
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# ? Jul 10, 2012 06:10 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 06:24 |
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ASSTASTIC posted:Where do you guys buy chemicals from? I'm trying to develop some Fuji Neopan 100ss. I hear that D-76 is a good process...? My local store or B&H, but I've been slowly falling in love with Rodinal lately which B&H won't ship so I order it from freestyle. D76 is a great general purpose developer. Tons of schools and labs use(d) D76. Ilford has ID-11 which is the same thing, not sure if there's a difference in price but worth checking out.
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# ? Jul 10, 2012 06:13 |