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I tried it at WOT a few times today and no hesitation except the expected turbo lag.
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Jun 23, 2012 06:04
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The previous owner of my 2010 VW GTI had two mods installed. The first was an APR Stage I tune, the second was this intake: http://www.evoms.com/marketplace/Vi...797006565A11%7D The intake's currently installed and the filter could use a cleaning. I also have the stock airbox. Is there any reason not to install the stock airbox back instead? Would I really be losing much power? Are there any other benefits I'm overlooking? Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Jun 24, 2012 |
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Jun 24, 2012 17:36
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My mother is looking was looking at a Q5 as a rural real-estate sales wagon and was asking me about Audi reliability. I'm familiar with the older 2.0Ts but not the current ones or the auto trans. Does the newer Q5 drivetrain have any major known issues?
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Jun 24, 2012 21:39
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Residency Evil posted:The previous owner of my 2010 VW GTI had two mods installed. The first was an APR Stage I tune, the second was this intake: http://www.evoms.com/marketplace/Vi...797006565A11%7D Intakes are pretty useless on a turbo'd motor. The air gets heated up so much being compressed by the turbo that anything the intake does is pretty worthless. Plus most intakes have lovely filters and pull heat from the engine bay. The only thing a "cold air intake" does on a turbo is let you hear it spool a little more.
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Jun 25, 2012 17:04
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Got a buddy about to go take a look at a 1999 Golf 4d hatch 5-speed with 151k on it. Anything particular we should be looking out for on Golfs of this vintage? As far as I can tell, this has the 2.0 4-cyl.
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Jun 25, 2012 17:33
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I have a driveline clunk that I am having some difficulty locating on my B5 S4 Avant. It's mostly on/off throttle and can be felt behind the e-brake/passenger seat area. If I engage the clutch at the perfect RPM between shifts it does not happen. I have done some research and I replaced the rear diff mount (aftermarket, apikol) and rear diff carrier mounts (aftermarket 034 poly). I am definitely a novice mechanic, so I retorqued all of the hardware on the diff mount to the specification this weekend and noticed there is some lash on the driveshaft at the cv joint on the rear diff. (I can spin the driveshaft 1/4" by hand with the wheels on the ground.) I also looked at the carrier bearing for the driveshaft at this time and it seemed okay to me. Is this more likely to be a prop shaft failure or the rear diff? The car has never been driven hard and has 106k. I have recently replaced all 4 wheel bearings, all front control arms, right front axle (raxles, after i noticed the inner and outer CV boots failed and barfed grease over everything)
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Jun 25, 2012 18:46
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Snowdens Secret posted:My mother is looking was looking at a Q5 as a rural real-estate sales wagon and was asking me about Audi reliability. I'm familiar with the older 2.0Ts but not the current ones or the auto trans. Does the newer Q5 drivetrain have any major known issues? Any reason it has to be a Q5? My impression was that if you're not using it as a soccer-mom mobile (i.e. you actually need interior space, which I imagine a realtor would), there are better (and cheaper) options out there. (Like real station-wagons, trucks, or SUVs)
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Jun 25, 2012 19:18
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veedubfreak posted:Intakes are pretty useless on a turbo'd motor. lol what? Cars like the Mazdaspeed3 can get 20hp/20 ft/lbs off just an intake.
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Jun 26, 2012 03:39
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movax posted:Any reason it has to be a Q5? My impression was that if you're not using it as a soccer-mom mobile (i.e. you actually need interior space, which I imagine a realtor would), there are better (and cheaper) options out there. (Like real station-wagons, trucks, or SUVs) She brought up the Q5, I've recommended other options but for her needs it's not bad. They have a truck for actual work, this is for carrying clients and ground clearance on a wagon on some of the trails is a real concern. Right now she has one of those old Infiniti-badged Pathfinder things but it uses too much gas and she wants something smaller. The cost is tax deductible as a business expense.
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Jun 26, 2012 04:14
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Snowdens Secret posted:She brought up the Q5, I've recommended other options but for her needs it's not bad. They have a truck for actual work, this is for carrying clients and ground clearance on a wagon on some of the trails is a real concern. Right now she has one of those old Infiniti-badged Pathfinder things but it uses too much gas and she wants something smaller. The cost is tax deductible as a business expense. The Q5 is more or less a B8 with a different body, I thought. Is ground clearance decent on it?
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Jun 26, 2012 04:27
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So i'm thinking of getting an R32 - looking at something with less than 50,000 miles and I want to go for a manual. I live in the UK so trying to look for a 55 plate for the cheaper tax but will go for a newer one if I find the right one. Anything I should be looking out for when buying one of these?
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Jun 26, 2012 13:16
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dustywusty posted:The Q5 is more or less a B8 with a different body, I thought. Is ground clearance decent on it? I don't know. They do have big wheels/tires and you can get them with offroad kit / underbody armor. Pretty much everything in this class is essentially a lifted sedan.
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Jun 26, 2012 19:36
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I'm looking at a 2006 Golf with an auto transmission and 70k on the clock. I know the MkIV had some issues, but I've been told these were mostly ironed out by the time the later model years came out. However, I've also been told to avoid the automatic transmission. Thing is, I have a strong preference for driving auto since I do a lot of city driving. What kind of trouble am I getting myself into if I decide to go with an auto on one of these late year MkIVs?
Kefit fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Jun 27, 2012 |
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Jun 27, 2012 04:17
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Does anyone have any experience with unsticking stuck wastegates / actuators? Some part of the assembly seems to be rusted stuck on my 98 Jetta TDI. I've been putting it up on ramps, spraying everything with penetrating oil and trying to wiggle it back and forth. Right now it won't move at all. I replaced the N75 valve before this because it was easy, and I have replacement hoses, but I haven't bother wit that yet because I can't move the actuator arm by hand.
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Jun 27, 2012 06:05
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Kefit posted:I'm looking at a 2006 Golf with an auto transmission and 70k on the clock. I know the MkIV had some issues, but I've been told these were mostly ironed out by the time the later model years came out. However, I've also been told to avoid the automatic transmission. Thing is, I have a strong preference for driving auto since I do a lot of city driving. What kind of trouble am I getting myself into if I decide to go with an auto on one of these late year MkIVs? 2006 is MkV, unless you are in Canada and its a City Golf or something? Either way, post 2003 is pretty safe for MkIVs
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Jun 27, 2012 18:51
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Can anyone with the 2.5 tdi (d5252t) in an Audi 80, 100 or early a4 tell me where the fuel filter is?
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Jul 3, 2012 07:57
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Bovril Delight posted:lol what? Cars like the Mazdaspeed3 can get 20hp/20 ft/lbs off just an intake.  Please don't take the intake off!
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Jul 3, 2012 08:15
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Bob Morales posted:Is this common with 02 Jettas? This just happened to my car this afternoon, was reversing from a driveway and I heard it fall. Quickly parked cause it sounded like maybe the belt was rubbing on something and making a whirring noise. From what I looked up it looks like the bolts, my problem is that im a couple miles away from the shop and I want to know if I should even try to take the risk of driving there. Also, any estimates on the cost of fixing it?
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Jul 4, 2012 04:32
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So I found out the hard way while going through the carwash a few days ago that my MK6 2 door GTI has a leaky door seal. It's not a terrible problem in that it seems to take a lot of water to happen and it was just a few drips, but just looking around the internet it does seem to be a fairly common thing. Has anybody had this and done anything about it? I'm still under warranty and might just have them throw on new seals.
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Jul 4, 2012 05:30
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shyguy posted:So I found out the hard way while going through the carwash a few days ago that my MK6 2 door GTI has a leaky door seal. It's not a terrible problem in that it seems to take a lot of water to happen and it was just a few drips, but just looking around the internet it does seem to be a fairly common thing. Has anybody had this and done anything about it? I'm still under warranty and might just have them throw on new seals. Mine leaks a little too, but not enough to really matter. Does your rear washer nozzle leak too?
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Jul 5, 2012 02:30
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veedubfreak posted:Does your rear washer nozzle leak too? Hey, I remember this! TSB #2023248, post in VWV thread here. As for the door seals, I've had the exact same issue in very (VERY) heavy rain on both my 2011 TDI and 2012 Golf R. I haven't bothered telling the dealer about it. siliciferous fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Jul 5, 2012 |
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Jul 5, 2012 04:34
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I have been having trouble with my 2000 Passat for a while now and I can't seem to find what's causing it. The main symptom is a drastic reduction of RPM when I press down on the clutch. If the RPM is high enough when pressing down, the engine stalls and turns off. The car usually turns off during intersections and busy streets. Can you give me some ideas of what usually causes this problem? Hopefully it is easy to fix. The engine also stops when I stay on neutral for long periods of time, usually around 10 minutes or so. The car's RPM will gradually decrease, and I can see that it tries to keep itself working by revving itself up, but usually this is not enough, and the car stops. Pseudo-God fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Jul 5, 2012 |
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Jul 5, 2012 19:47
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Pseudo-God posted:I have been having trouble with my 2000 Passat for a while now and I can't seem to find what's causing it. The main symptom is a drastic reduction of RPM when I press down on the clutch. If the RPM is high enough when pressing down, the engine stalls and turns off. The car usually turns off during intersections and busy streets. Can you give me some ideas of what usually causes this problem? Hopefully it is easy to fix. Random shot in the dark but that really kinda sounds to me like a dirty/hosed MAF.
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Jul 5, 2012 22:27
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Pseudo-God posted:I have been having trouble with my 2000 Passat for a while now and I can't seem to find what's causing it. The main symptom is a drastic reduction of RPM when I press down on the clutch. If the RPM is high enough when pressing down, the engine stalls and turns off. The car usually turns off during intersections and busy streets. Can you give me some ideas of what usually causes this problem? Hopefully it is easy to fix. The ISV/IACV should be handling the idle. Several things could be causing this if it's is an IACV issue, from the IACV itself to the TPS not signaling closed throttle (in which case the IACV will never activate). Just how invested are you in fixing this yourself, what kinds of tools and facilities do you have at your disposal, and what id your experience wrenching? Method Loser posted:Random shot in the dark but that really kinda sounds to me like a dirty/hosed MAF. Not quite sure how you jumped to that conclusion, but I could be wrong. If I am give me an idea of your line of thinking here.
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Jul 6, 2012 02:03
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I wandered over to Audizine and browsed through the forums there; awful content and posters aside, there was a cheap modification mentioned that involved tossing the RS4 sway bar onto a B6 or B7 for an improvement in handling, especially on tight corners. It's cheap ($150) and I have the tools, but is it really going to make a noticeable difference if the rest of the suspension components are all still stock?
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Jul 6, 2012 06:27
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movax posted:I wandered over to Audizine and browsed through the forums there; awful content and posters aside, there was a cheap modification mentioned that involved tossing the RS4 sway bar onto a B6 or B7 for an improvement in handling, especially on tight corners. If you drive your car hard enough everywhere that the body roll is enough to currently bother you, then go for it, otherwise these sorts of mods work best in conjunction with other suspension work. IE, an RS4 will already have better suspension components than yours.
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Jul 6, 2012 11:05
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Motronic posted:The ISV/IACV should be handling the idle. Several things could be causing this if it's is an IACV issue, from the IACV itself to the TPS not signaling closed throttle (in which case the IACV will never activate). drat, I was going to suggest he needs to adjust his idle jet on the carb, then see how long he looked for a carburetor.
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Jul 6, 2012 19:32
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2011 GTI... I'm tired of the horn honk when locking the doors. I know I can replace the alarm horn with a soft chirp siren or disable it with vagcom. Can I just unplug it without throwing a code?
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Jul 6, 2012 20:38
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jeff8472 posted:2011 GTI... You should probably do something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JU6BepKUZWE
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Jul 6, 2012 21:40
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Motronic posted:Not quite sure how you jumped to that conclusion, but I could be wrong. If I am give me an idea of your line of thinking here. Like I said, kinda a shot in the dark, but I've had similar wonky things happen with dirty MAFs, considering his problem isn't just idling, it's any time there isn't a load on the engine, which I dunno just because I hate MAFs and have had bad experiences with them causing weird pseudo-regular issues, it's the first thing I want to blame in any case where it seems like an engine is dying for lack of a proper air/fuel ratio. If I hated fuel filters as much ads I hate MAFs I guess I would be blaming that, too, though, so whatever, take anything I say about this with a grain of salt (and obviously you know more than me about these engines, so I ll defer my opinion) edit: basically I am a racist, except against MAFs. Partist? something. gently caress those little wires. (still better than carbs) And while I'm at it: I also blame your Crank Angle Sensor (if you have one [even if you do it's not that]) hate those things so much Method Loser fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jul 6, 2012 |
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Jul 6, 2012 23:29
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Not ready to try this on my MKVI GTI but I loved this linked on the VW door chime mod vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIceA8lAxcw
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Jul 6, 2012 23:47
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I would never in a million years do that to my car. edit: I wish I could be there when the next owner of that car comes in to report a "mysterious door rattle"
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Jul 6, 2012 23:51
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Method Loser posted:edit: basically I am a racist, except against MAFs. Partist? something. gently caress those little wires. (still better than carbs) Well, I'll pretty much subscribe to your newsletter on this. They are the kinds of things that instead of setting an obvious DTC they end up making things run like crap and setting a bunch of symptom DTCs on almost everything. Their failure modes basically aren't monitored well by most OBDII implementations and it's infuriating. But I like to try to rule out the possibly direct (and non $400 replacement part) issues first before jumping right on to replacing a MAF. I typically find that by the time someone asks for help on a vehicle issue it's in really bad shape and actually at least 2 or more issues. It' really nice to be able to tie something up into a bow with one part, but it's not likely to happen with a non AI-gooney-I rebuild my motor for poo poo and giggles every few months kinda situation. Most people drive things into the loving ground because they don't know any better and are basically scared off by repair prices to the point that they try to will minor problems away until they become big problems or compound issues that either incapacitate the vehicle or make it so scary to drive that they can't trust it anymore.
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Jul 7, 2012 00:32
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jeff8472 posted:2011 GTI... On my MKV it was just a stock option in the menus, it was named like "ATA Confirmation" or something.
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Jul 7, 2012 01:41
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Motronic posted:But I like to try to rule out the possibly direct (and non $400 replacement part) issues first before jumping right on to replacing a MAF. Ah, but a good cleaning is (basically) free 
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Jul 7, 2012 01:43
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Method Loser posted:Ah, but a good cleaning is (basically) free It's also a 33/33/33 shot of "it might work", "it made no difference" and "it's been made worse I need a new MAF now". Especially when suggesting it to the uninitiated. Cleaning a MAF is not a regular service item. It's a last resort before replacing it. Regardless of what CRC and anyone else who makes MAF cleaner (or repackages electronic cleaner with a label that say "MAF Cleaner" on it) tells you.
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Jul 7, 2012 02:24
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beejay posted:On my MKV it was just a stock option in the menus, it was named like "ATA Confirmation" or something. VW is slowly taking away options in the MFD. There's very little you can do anymore.
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Jul 7, 2012 02:34
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beejay posted:On my MKV it was just a stock option in the menus, it was named like "ATA Confirmation" or something. 2010 was the last year it was an option without enabling it with vagcom. jeff8472 fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Jul 7, 2012 |
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Jul 7, 2012 02:35
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I just installed a "short shifter" into my 2010 GTI and readjusted the linkage. Short shifter is in quotes because I just went with the OEM one that comes stock in the S3. The throws are a good bit shorter and it feels more precise all while maintaining a stock feel (because it is). Definitely recommended.
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Jul 9, 2012 02:10
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jeff8472 posted:2010 was the last year it was an option without enabling it with vagcom. I asked this earlier in the thread, but can't remember the answer -- your average dealer can't/won't program it out for you, either, right?
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Jul 9, 2012 07:57
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