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Pope Mobile posted:I bought a pack of of metric bolts, nuts and washers to replace any stripped screws. They're all hex head from 7-11mm. Good investment IMO.
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Jul 19, 2012 03:37
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 23:25 |
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McMaster Carr? That's where I've found most of my doodads in the past.
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Jul 19, 2012 07:37
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Where the hell you getting 7 and 11mm bolts and what the hell you putting them in? Any local bike shop I've been to. They have little plastic boxes of nuts, bolts and washers, sold in metric and standard. As expected, it's more expensive than going to the hardware store and buying the same stuff, but it's really convenient having everything right there. I use them to replace the lovely, soft screws that hold the plastics as they, inevitably, become rounded. All the ones I've used so far are 7mm. I throw a 7mm socket in my tool bag if I need to adjust or remove anything away from my garage.
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Jul 19, 2012 15:17
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Ah, bolts aren't labelled with the size of the head, but that of the thread. The Rev. (and I) thought you meant bolts with M7-M11 threads. Which would be exceedingly weird, as after M6 they generally go up in 2s; M8, M10, M12 etc. Something with a 7mm head would be, maybe M5? I dunno.
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Jul 19, 2012 16:34
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I was a little confused about that too. I work in a machine shop where we use a lot of metric bolts and screws, and was pretty sure that an M7 thread wasn't a thing. Edit: Apparently there are M7 bolts, but not socket head cap screws. I learned something today! A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Jul 19, 2012 |
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Jul 19, 2012 17:26
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I can see how what I said was confusing considering I was using the incorrect terminology.
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Jul 19, 2012 18:56
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Well I've never seen stock bolts on any bike that had 7mm or 11mm threads, and I've only seen stock 7mm and 11mm bolt heads on vintage Vespas. So I'm wondering what you're up to.
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Jul 20, 2012 01:43
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There were, but you have to go back to prehistoric times. M7 was used a bit in Ducati Bevel singles of the late 60s, and possibly a handful of early Nortons. Then again, with Brit bikes of that era, anything was possible.
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Jul 20, 2012 04:11
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My old BSA has BA, BSP, Whitworth and Metric. Although the metrics were not stock as far as I can tell.
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Jul 20, 2012 11:40
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Based on what people say, it seems like British manufacturers from the 60s and 70s just used whatever they found laying around on the workshop floor to put bikes (and cars) together.
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Jul 20, 2012 15:45
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That's a generously short window.
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Jul 20, 2012 15:53
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Collateral Damage posted:Based on what people say, it seems like British manufacturers from the 60s and 70s just used whatever they found laying around on the workshop floor to put bikes (and cars) together.
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Jul 21, 2012 04:54
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:My boss at the bike shop, who's a British car/bike guy, tells me there were multiple different fastener sets in the UK back in the day, including Whitworth and a couple more I can't remember. And a single British car could have multiple different fastener sets used on it. As someone who started out with German bikes, this just makes me want to strangle mootmoot or anyone else from those islands. As someone who owns a Suzuki, I want to strangle everyone for actually having fasteners on their bikes. suzuki.jpg
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Jul 21, 2012 20:19
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This Sunday I finally had enough free time to change the oil in my DRZ, I thought I already had oil but it turns out I didn't. Unfortunately, my favorite Suzuki/Kawasaki shop around here isn't open on Sundays. Luckily I had the filter already So I ride up the street to the Yamaha shop, closed too...drat. Then I remember, there's a Harley Davidson dealership just around the corner, they should have motorcycle oil...right? I look around a bit, they got a nice showroom and some nice shiny chromed out bikes, only other section I could find was just accessories and apparel. So I find an employee.  : Heya, trying to find some engine oil for a change. You guys got any? : Yeah It's right over here... : Ah thanks...Hmm I don't see what I'm looking for. Got any 10w40? : 10w40? Nah couldn't be. : Pretty sure it is, 15w40 should work also. You should really put in what the manual says, or take it to a shop. : Yeah...that's what it says. 10w40. It's not a Harley...Suzuki DRZ. : Oh...well...all we got is Harley oil here. : I'm sure it will work, So how about that 10w40. Need 2 quarts : Yeah, let me check the computer. *checks inventory or something* Hmm..be right back..He disappears in the back for about 5 minutes and returns with the 2 dustiest quarts of oil I have ever seen. : Hey looks like we do got it....huh.I paid and left, it was a little more expensive than normal but I think I came out under $15 for both. And then just now I get to be the motorcycle stupid. I live on the groundfloor of a 4-plex and park my bike under the porch that leads to the upstairs houses. Just now I go outside and see this tiny palm-sized pool of oil on the pavement right where I park my bike.  Oh poo poo, I just changed that...what did I gently caress up. Why's it leaking.I search and search all over my bike...check every bolt and case seam. Nothing, not a drop. Just as I'm about to give up and wait to see if it leaks any more oil I hear my upstairs neighbor.  : Hey man! Want some BBQ! I made too much.Turns out his grill was placed right above where I parked and the grease drippings fell through the deck just right to end up right under my engine. 
TheDon01 fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Jul 25, 2012 |
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Jul 25, 2012 03:41
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TheDon01 posted:
What do Harleys normally take that would make plain old 10W40 bizarre? And good thing the grease didn't fall right on your bike, huh. That might have been a real pain to clean off.
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Jul 25, 2012 03:48
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Sagebrush posted:What do Harleys normally take that would make plain old 10W40 bizarre? They take 20WFreedom. It's rare and only for Harleys. The oil can is solid steel with a chrome cap. The bar and shield shines proudly in the sunlight and glitters with the soft shine of angel tears in artificial light. It's beautiful.
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Jul 25, 2012 05:20
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Sagebrush posted:What do Harleys normally take that would make plain old 10W40 bizarre? 20W50/SAE50/SAE60. Apparently they no longer market anything else, which makes those two bottles antiques, hence the dust. I suspect even those who worship at stationary Electra Glide altars once a week fail to see the sense in shelling out $7/qt for dino oil, even with the custom formula hokum. The whole oil thing is a massive sham anyway. I'd love to see Motorcyclist do some objective analysis like their helmet study years ago that found sub-$100 Z1Rs to be as good as anything out there.* Go to any moto forum and you'll see people get absolutely unglued over this topic. And these used bike ads that cite religious affiliation with synthetic oil as a value proposition--am I supposed to care? *Upon further review, Shoei didn't send in an eval unit: http://www.westcoastweasels.com/archives/PDF/Blowing_the_Lid_Off.pdf
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Jul 25, 2012 05:51
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I'm just thankful my bike takes the same oil my car does-- 15w40-- which can be had at Wal*Mart in a gigantic blue gallon jug for $8. You get the Harley customer base experience without the dealership prices! 
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Jul 25, 2012 05:55
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Marv Hushman posted:20W50/SAE50/SAE60. Apparently they no longer market anything else, which makes those two bottles antiques, hence the dust. I suspect even those who worship at stationary Electra Glide altars once a week fail to see the sense in shelling out $7/qt for dino oil, even with the custom formula hokum. Big air-cooled engines need a heavier oil because the oil is their primary method of heat transfer, 10W40 would break down pretty quickly. It's also pretty important, with some (in fact most modern) engine designs, to only use fully- or semi-synth (or at least oil designed for motorbikes) because the gearbox, clutch and engine share oil - non-synth multigrade oil gets absolutely loving destroyed in wet clutches and straight-cut gearboxes. Whether there's an absolute advantage of fully-synth over semi-synth oils designed for the same application (other than in two-stroke engines, where the mix ratio is completely different) is a matter of debate though.
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Jul 25, 2012 07:49
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TheDon01 posted:
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Jul 25, 2012 08:52
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Sagebrush posted:What do Harleys normally take that would make plain old 10W40 bizarre? Kroon Oil makes a cheap SAE50 "Harley Oil". Best chain lube I've ever used, nice and thick, almost like honey. I guess a big air cooled twin would drink it up nicely, too. My own air cooled 4-cylinder gets 10W40 fully synth. Then again, with 6000km oil changes, I should probably just use semi-synth instead and save some cash.
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Jul 25, 2012 11:18
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goddamnedtwisto posted:It's also pretty important, with some (in fact most modern) engine designs, to only use fully- or semi-synth (or at least oil designed for motorbikes) because the gearbox, clutch and engine share oil... I sort of agree, at the risk of exposing my own hypocrisy. On the Sportster, the motor and primary/trans are separate entities from a lubrication standpoint. I blindly accepted that there was something special about Sport Trans, a model-specific Harley (TMTMTTMTMTMTMTM Pareve Marca Registrada) gear lubricant. Because it is off the market, many are confused about just what goes in there, with the answer typically being you've been had--just use 20W50. Then again, you did say modern designs...
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Jul 25, 2012 15:18
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Xovaan posted:I'm just thankful my bike takes the same oil my car does-- 15w40-- which can be had at Wal*Mart in a gigantic blue gallon jug for $8. You get the Harley customer base experience without the dealership prices! Car Oil =/= bike oil though. Wet clutches and all that.
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Jul 25, 2012 15:23
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_Dav posted:Car Oil =/= bike oil though. Wet clutches and all that. Most diesel oils are excellent in bikes. As long as it's not energy conserving you're fine. I almost always use Rotella T.
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Jul 25, 2012 15:30
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opengl128 posted:Most diesel oils are excellent in bikes. As long as it's not energy conserving you're fine. I almost always use Rotella T. Rotella T is all you need. The big jug is just right for an oil change, and provides just enough left over to make a salad when you're done.
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Jul 25, 2012 15:34
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Oh god another oil thread!
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Jul 25, 2012 18:56
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KozmoNaut posted:Kroon Oil makes a cheap SAE50 "Harley Oil". Best chain lube I've ever used, nice and thick, almost like honey. I guess a big air cooled twin would drink it up nicely, too. The 40W single-grade you can get from most VW shops for the old air-cooled Beetle etc engines would probably do pretty well too, and is pretty much cheaper than bottled water. And the best chain lube, or so I'm told by men with mighty beards, is the silicone stuff for chainsaws, it costs next to nothing, doesn't fling, and stays on through all weather. Of course if you over-apply it it picks up dirt and eventually turns into grinding paste sooo... (Actually I'm probably a terrible person because I almost never lube my chain. I just forget. I wash the bike every week, do all the proper checks, even clean my brake disks and poo poo, then just after I put everything away I see the tin of lube sitting neglected at the bottom of the box yet again. Having said that I never have problems with chain stretch, it never feels tight, and is still pretty shiny, so maybe I'm doing something right)
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Jul 25, 2012 20:00
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_Dav posted:Car Oil =/= bike oil though. Wet clutches and all that. Is this actually a thing? The owner's manual of my Ninja 650 doesn't say anything about specific "bike oil", just that I should use 10w40.
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Jul 25, 2012 20:09
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As open said, as long as it's not "energy conserving" (says on the bottle in the pokeball logo on the back) it's fine for bikes. There's really no difference between oils unless you're KTM and like making engines that you literally pour moon oil and liquid money into.
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Jul 25, 2012 20:17
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Xovaan posted:As open said, as long as it's not "energy conserving" (says on the bottle in the pokeball logo on the back) it's fine for bikes. There's really no difference between oils unless you're KTM and like making engines that you literally pour moon oil and liquid money into. Are KTMs that unreliable? I'm amazed they've got a 70HP single while other brands are stuck at like 45HP, but I guess that must come at a cost...
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Jul 25, 2012 21:17
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Guinness posted:Is this actually a thing? The owner's manual of my Ninja 650 doesn't say anything about specific "bike oil", just that I should use 10w40.
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Jul 26, 2012 01:03
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Guinness posted:Is this actually a thing? The owner's manual of my Ninja 650 doesn't say anything about specific "bike oil", just that I should use 10w40. Your bike manual will probably specify a JASO spec. Rotella T6 synth says right on the bottle it meets it, but it is marketed as a heavy-duty diesel oil.
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Jul 26, 2012 01:25
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slidebite posted:Your bike manual will probably specify a JASO spec. Rotella T6 synth says right on the bottle it meets it, but it is marketed as a heavy-duty diesel oil. Hmm crap the Mobil Super 10w40 I just picked up is API SN/SM/SL but not JASO MA. Is the JASO spec a big deal? Sounds like I should go get something else... I guess I can go look for Rotella T 15w40 since they don't make a 10w40 of it apparently. Guinness fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Jul 26, 2012 |
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Jul 26, 2012 01:37
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JASO is basically wet clutch spec IIRC. If the bottle says "ENERGY CONSERVING" in that API logo, don't use it for sure. The additives are bad for the clutch.. or so I've heard 
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Jul 26, 2012 02:07
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slidebite posted:JASO is basically wet clutch spec IIRC. If the bottle says "ENERGY CONSERVING" in that API logo, don't use it for sure. The additives are bad for the clutch.. or so I've heard It doesn't say anything about energy conserving, just "API Service SN" and "SAE 10W-40". But now you guys have me all nervous so I'm going to buy something with the JASO spec, and see if they'll take this stuff back.
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Jul 26, 2012 02:10
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goddamnedtwisto posted:(Actually I'm probably a terrible person because I almost never lube my chain. I just forget. I wash the bike every week, do all the proper checks, even clean my brake disks and poo poo, then just after I put everything away I see the tin of lube sitting neglected at the bottom of the box yet again. Having said that I never have problems with chain stretch, it never feels tight, and is still pretty shiny, so maybe I'm doing something right) Most of the lube a modern O/X-ring chain needs is already in there from the factory. Any additional lube is mostly to keep the outside of the chain from rusting and to keep the rollers happy. Even without any additional lube at all, a good chain will last for quite a while unless you constantly ride in the rain or offroad.
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Jul 26, 2012 02:20
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Zubumafoo posted:I was a little confused about that too. I work in a machine shop where we use a lot of metric bolts and screws, and was pretty sure that an M7 thread wasn't a thing. Honda is the devil when it comes to fasteners. My Goldwing fork clamps are secured by M7 hex head cap screws, which are of course NLA. Absolutely impossible to find unless the dealer has old stock. Also- my Harley rental trip was great. 675 miles in 48 hours, Statesville to Deals Gap, then Asheville to Sparta via the Blue Ridge Parkway. Didn't overhear much dumb stuff though.
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Jul 26, 2012 02:30
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AnnoyBot posted:Honda is the devil when it comes to fasteners. My Goldwing fork clamps are secured by M7 hex head cap screws, which are of course NLA. Absolutely impossible to find unless the dealer has old stock. M7 hex head cap screws, 12mm-70mm length: http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/...eter:120800%7C~ Expensive, and you can't get them in stainless steel, but that ought to tide you over if the dealers aren't being helpful.
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Jul 26, 2012 03:05
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Sagebrush posted:M7 hex head cap screws, 12mm-70mm length: I've seen regular M7 cap screws in McMaster Carr and stuff too. I thought they were originally talking about M7 socket head cap screws, which I've never seen.
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Jul 26, 2012 04:36
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Ideally there shouldn't even be M7 screws -- the ISO standard lists them as a second choice to be used only if M6 and M8 are both unsuitable. At least they only come in the one pitch, I guess.
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Jul 26, 2012 04:54
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