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A Magical Unicorn posted:These are pet dogs and the ones advertised are about half the cost of ones from a breeder - but price isn't the issue, it was more about being put on a waiting list and possibly driving a 6 hour round-trip from a recognized breeder, as opposed to a 15 minute drive at a time which would really work out for me. Go to a shelter, or stick with a reputable breeder even if it involves a long ride. If you go with a shelter, you'll be able to find a young dog if not a puppy, and give a home to someone who really, really needs one. If you go with a reputable breeder, the long ride is something you'll only have to do once or twice, ever. A 15 minute drive at a convenient time is a really lovely way to justify supporting someone who is setting of serious red flags. edit: Have you considered checking out husky rescues? You might even be able to find one that will ship to you, if you're dead set on an "easy collection" or something. guarded by bees fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Jul 20, 2012 |
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Jul 19, 2012 23:25
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Even with the papers, they wouldn't mean a thing when it comes to being healthy. It'll be just a paper saying, Heres a husky. It sounds like you want a husky, found an easy/cheap/fast way of obtaining one and don't want to wait anymore. If you really want convenience, check the local shelters- they might not have puppies, but I'm sure you would find a husky that needs a home. Breeders will ship dogs, if the whole driving thing is too inconvenient.
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Jul 19, 2012 23:48
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Okay. I am all set for my puppy to come home. I have food for him, cookies, a place where his things will live, clickers, poop bags etc, leash, harness, back up harness, 2 collars (one for the house, one for outside with more info on the tags just in case), toys, 12 kongs for him to have his meals out of, X-pen for the dining room, baby gate for the hall and the kitchen, water bowl, no-spill bowl for the ride, his crate, a vet-trip crate, and an around town carrier. I also have a vet chosen, and appointment booked for the morning after he comes home. Questions: Is there anything I should bring with me to make the three hour drive to my house easier on him? I have the carrier set up in the car, a variety of cookies for him, some stuff to chew on, a blanket to cover the crate if needed, and water containers. I've also got pee-pads, a wet-bag for trash, poop bags, and calm CDs in the car. I have two cats, should I bring something that smells like them along with me? I've posted here a few times with questions that feel stupid, but now that he's ready to come home I feel even more unprepared even though I'm an obsessive planner. I know I've got everything for him here ready, but I'm worried that I'm missing something really obvious and important for the car.
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Jul 20, 2012 00:12
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bees: You sound ridiculously over-prepared, he'll probably just sleep most of the way. A collar and leash so he can get out for a pee? unicorn: These guys all have it spot on. Just an observation, if you want the convenience of saving a few hours drive to pick up your dog and the convenience of not being on a wait list, you may have underestimated the inconvenience a husky can be. They're stubborn, difficult to train and love to take themselves for walks when you're not looking. They're smart enough to escape the yard, to be vindictive if they feel slighted and will thieve food whenever you aren't watching. On top of that, they'll need a lot of exercise and shed constantly.
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Jul 20, 2012 00:55
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guarded by bees posted:Is there anything I should bring with me to make the three hour drive to my house easier on him? I have the carrier set up in the car, a variety of cookies for him, some stuff to chew on, a blanket to cover the crate if needed, and water containers. I've also got pee-pads, a wet-bag for trash, poop bags, and calm CDs in the car. I have two cats, should I bring something that smells like them along with me? Way to go! I'd skip the pee-pads, there shouldn't be any reason to need them and their scent is likely to encourage peeing on them, which will likely not be anywhere you would want. I'd also try with the music off first -- some dogs don't like it. I'd also try and get a t-shirt or something that has smelled like the other puppies if you can. Typically a good breeder will ask you for an old undershirt or something that smells like you, leave it in the puppies area for a couple of weeks and then take it back with you. This way they get used to your smell and they also bring some smells from home to keep them calm. Otherwise you're well set. Good luck!
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Jul 20, 2012 03:54
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guarded by bees posted:Is there anything I should bring with me to make the three hour drive to my house easier on him? I have the carrier set up in the car, a variety of cookies for him, some stuff to chew on, a blanket to cover the crate if needed, and water containers. I've also got pee-pads, a wet-bag for trash, poop bags, and calm CDs in the car. I have two cats, should I bring something that smells like them along with me?
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Jul 20, 2012 08:22
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nevermind.
A Magical Unicorn fucked around with this message at 11:33 on Jul 29, 2012 |
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Jul 20, 2012 14:18
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A Magical Unicorn posted:Please understand that I didn't know what the trade-offs were when buying from a "backyard breeder". It's covered relatively extensively in the OP.
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Jul 20, 2012 15:42
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A Magical Unicorn posted:It's quite rare for everyone in one forum to agree on something, let alone 2 different forums, so I will take your advice. I'd start looking at shelters/rescues. Thank-you everyone. You checked with any of the husky rescue associations in AU? There are several from a quick google search. I'd also check with the respective states' Siberian Husky clubs- they'll know who the reputable breeders in your area are.
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Jul 20, 2012 21:03
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working dog breeds) has been from someone advertising puppies in the paper and I've been lucky enough to avoid problems. I've never owned a purebred so breeders are a whole new world for me.
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My neighbor has an outside dog that he lets me take inside my home whenever I want. My concern is that Beaux, the dog, will happily stay inside for 20 hours at a stretch if I don't put him out. I've never owned a dog, and I'm now thinking that I am wrong to assume that since Beaux sometimes goes to the front door to be let out, he'll always go to the front door when he wants to be let out. Maybe he needs to eliminate but doesn't indicate it? Should I make a schedule for putting him outside and put him out even when he doesn't want to go? If it matters, Beaux is a golden retriever about six or seven years old. He always has access to food and water in my house.
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Jul 20, 2012 22:38
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Dogs that age have good self control if they were properly housebroken/crate trained. My families older labs never really made a fuss about wanting to go out once they hit about 3 or 4....but we let them out on a pretty regular schedule. My pup on the other hand will whine at the door or start getting super barky.
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Jul 20, 2012 23:05
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I try not to keep my dogs inside for more than 8 hours, tops. Dogs that age do have good control but it isn't fair to ask them to hold it too long. Some dogs don't signal that they need to go either, particularly dogs who have spent most of their time outdoors (ask me about trying to teach an aged farm dog who never went inside until age 14 to let us know when she needs to go out!). I'd recommend letting him out occasionally even if he doesn't indicate that he needs it.
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Jul 20, 2012 23:24
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Thanks for the information. You've helped me to refine my questions. Because his self-control is so advanced, would he possibly harm himself by holding it for too long? What's the longest stretch of time that a dog could be kept inside? Edit: Posted before I saw 2tomorrow's information. That's exactly what I needed to know. Beaux has been an outdoor dog all of his life, just like your old barn dog. I'll make sure to break up his time indoors with periodic trips outside, at most 8 hours apart. The System fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jul 20, 2012 |
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Jul 20, 2012 23:28
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The System posted:Thanks for the information. You've helped me to refine my questions. Because his self-control is so advanced, would he possibly harm himself by holding it for too long? What's the longest stretch of time that a dog could be kept inside? I don't like to leave my dogs without a bathroom break every 4 hours if I can help it. 8 is the max.
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Jul 21, 2012 00:08
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Holy gently caress, I just need to complain a bit in here... Feel free to give advice, but keep in mind that I have read the OP with regards to mouthing, biting, and inappropriate chewing, which are the things I will be ranting about here. Shanti has decided over the last two days that there is nothing better than biting and pulling my hair when I let him in bed with me. I crate overnight and let him in bed in the morning from about 7am to 9am. He also wants to chew on anything that isn't his toy. I've tried clicker training him by click/treating when he is calm and relaxed, laying by my head and not trying to bite me, but that hasn't seemed to work yet. I understand that it takes time, but I don't think he's associating "calm and quiet" with "treat"... I'd say that 85% of the time, he's a really sweet, chilled out dog, and I am VERY LUCKY that I have a puppy as good as he is. However, when he gets crazy, hooboy does he get crazy. He wants to chew my computer cords (which I have now rerouted so he can't get at them), my shoes (which are in the closet, but I don't have a closet door, either in my room or in my foyer, and god forbid I try to mop up the water he spills everywhere - The mop is fair game for biting and chasing when Shanti gets the zoomies. Oh, and he barely ever goes for his toys. He'll go for ANYTHING before he goes for his own toys! I got him a variety of things - A Kong, which he isn't interested in, even though it's full of PB or kibbles, a rubbery thing with a rope in it (probably his favorite), a stuffed giraffe that squeaks, and a stuffed bone that squeaks AND has rope on either end. I try to replace whatever bad thing he is trying to chew on (my hair, a cord, whatever) with a toy, but he just. doesn't. seem. interested. Sigh. He is SO LUCKY that he's cute.
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Jul 21, 2012 01:59
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uptown posted:Holy gently caress, I just need to complain a bit in here... Feel free to give advice, but keep in mind that I have read the OP with regards to mouthing, biting, and inappropriate chewing, which are the things I will be ranting about here. My dog likes eating wood. Have you tried these? http://www.amazon.com/Everlasting-Treat-Chicken-Large-2-Pack/dp/B0002X8HB4/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_text_b
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Jul 21, 2012 02:05
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I have not. I've only had him a week. I will search for those (or something similar) to see if it'll keep him occupied in his moments of crazy.
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Jul 21, 2012 03:15
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uptown posted:I have not. I've only had him a week. My dog also likes bully sticks. You can also get the stuffed sterilized cattle long bones like these: http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11783266 It'll keep your dog pretty focused for awhile (mine seems to like them better than kongs) and you can just restful them once all the goodies get licked out. I keep telling myself it'll get better, but the truth is my dog is a puppy and will be doing this for at least another year. And she needs way more exercise/a job.
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Jul 21, 2012 05:08
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MrFurious posted:Dogs can adapt to the 9-5 work day, just make sure that they are getting appropriate amounts of exercise for the time that you are around. 2tomorrow posted:You're right that you don't have time for a puppy, but most adult dogs do fine with owners who have full-time jobs. As long as you don't just ignore the dog when you're home and pick the dog for temperament you'll be fine. The stairs are also not a big concern. It's possible that a very old dog will have trouble with them as it becomes more arthritic, but even then most of them make it up fine if you let them take their time and letting your dog choose to stay downstairs is always an option. I just wanted to say thanks for the feedback, and to share that we found a dog last weekend at the local shelter. We've been crate training, and he has yet to have an accident. He does like to jump up on people and furniture, so we're working on training him not to. I took him to the vet and learned about flea/tick prevention, heart worm medicine, and she showed me how to clip his nails. He didn't eat much for the first 3 days, but now he's eating well and just as happy to curl up on the floor with us as he is to go for a walk to check the mail. Here's a picture of my youngest son reading to Lolo:
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Jul 21, 2012 17:29
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uptown posted:Chewing and mouthing When he chews on your hair, kick him out of the bed and STAY IN BED. Otherwise he'll learn it's how to get you moving. With regard to the toys, I recommend that you not leave them all out and about. They get boring that way. Find a box or closet to store them in or something, then it's always slightly novel when it comes out. I'm sure he also has a schedule for when the zoomies come out. I recommend trying to exercise him prior to that time when possible. The rest of it is just that Puppies Are Assholes.
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Jul 22, 2012 00:01
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Thank you guys so much for all of the advice in this awesome thread. I brought the puppy home today, and aside from a poopsplosion in the crate on the highway, everything's been fine. I gave him a quick happy bath when we got home (there was so much poop, he went from sleeping to making GBS threads in about 2 seconds). After his bath he got a cookie for his job well done, popped him into his crate and now he's passed out like it's no big deal. He snores itty bitty snores.
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Jul 22, 2012 06:34
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Totally my own fault for getting distracted (actually watching clicker training videos on YouTube), but Shanti peed in the house. I cleaned it, then took him outside to see if he needed to poop or anything, and he peed again! I know the accident in the house was fresh (warm), and it was around the corner so I didn't see or interrupt him. What does it mean that he only half peed? That he knows that the house is the wrong place to pee? Or am I just reading too much into this? Again: totally my fault that he had an accident, no deflection of responsibility here.
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Jul 23, 2012 06:32
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uptown posted:Totally my own fault for getting distracted (actually watching clicker training videos on YouTube), but Shanti peed in the house. I cleaned it, then took him outside to see if he needed to poop or anything, and he peed again! I know the accident in the house was fresh (warm), and it was around the corner so I didn't see or interrupt him. What does it mean that he only half peed? That he knows that the house is the wrong place to pee? Or am I just reading too much into this? Just be happy you've got him to pee outside on cue
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Jul 23, 2012 07:42
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Speaking of potty training, we have had our puppy for 2 months now and she is just shy of 6 months old. We live on the 11th floor of a highrise with no grass around us, and honestly she is doing far better than I had expected at this point considering the living circumstances. Accidents are only once or twice a week, and she sometimes even scratches at the front door to be let out. My question is that whenever we take her out for the bathroom we need to carry her. She will hold her pee on hard surfaces, but if she walks over anything soft or plush, like the carpet in the elevator or the rug in front of our apartment, she will pee on it rather than wait to get outside. Is there a way we can train her or otherwise work with her so we can start to walk her out rather than carry her? It takes 2-5 minutes to leave our apartment and get outside, depending largely on the elevator ride. I don't expect her to have great bladder control after she has been in the crate overnight, but she should be ok during the day when she goes out every couple of hours. 
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Jul 23, 2012 14:10
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uptown posted:Totally my own fault for getting distracted (actually watching clicker training videos on YouTube), but Shanti peed in the house. I cleaned it, then took him outside to see if he needed to poop or anything, and he peed again! I know the accident in the house was fresh (warm), and it was around the corner so I didn't see or interrupt him. What does it mean that he only half peed? That he knows that the house is the wrong place to pee? Or am I just reading too much into this? If he continues to have weird, frequent half-pees, consider getting him checked for a UTI. nesbit37 posted:Speaking of potty training, we have had our puppy for 2 months now and she is just shy of 6 months old. We live on the 11th floor of a highrise with no grass around us, and honestly she is doing far better than I had expected at this point considering the living circumstances. Accidents are only once or twice a week, and she sometimes even scratches at the front door to be let out. I would continue to carry her. A lot of potty breaking issues are simply about creating a preference for the appropriate area. She likes the carpet because it's nice and absorbent. There's probably not too much you can do right now other than drill it into her little head that she's to pee on grass. Don't let her make the "mistake" of peeing on carpet or else it will set your preference-building back. Give it another couple of months and see if she better understands that only grass is an appropriate pee area.
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Jul 23, 2012 15:49
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uptown posted:Totally my own fault for getting distracted (actually watching clicker training videos on YouTube), but Shanti peed in the house. I cleaned it, then took him outside to see if he needed to poop or anything, and he peed again! I know the accident in the house was fresh (warm), and it was around the corner so I didn't see or interrupt him. What does it mean that he only half peed? That he knows that the house is the wrong place to pee? Or am I just reading too much into this? I think you should watch him and make sure he goes back to peeing normally, and if not take him to the vet. Small, frequent urination can be a sign of a UTI as a life less said. One of my dogs drinks a ton and if I don't let him out frequently enough he'll do a small pee in the house then a longer one outside. I think he just can't hold it anymore but also doesn't want to pee inside. He's been fully checked out and given a clean bill of health so I know it isn't a health issue. He's been doing it (infrequently) since he was a pup and he's 8 now. Because of that experience I would say not to worry if it is just a one-time thing but if it continues take him to the vet.
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Jul 23, 2012 18:14
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My dog turns into a nightmare anytime she has to go in her kennel. What are some good tips to fix your dogs separation anxiety? It's getting harder and harder to even convince her to go into her crate. Treats don't work in the slightest anymore, and she's figured out how to eat in there without having her full body into it. I've tried chew toys, and regular toys, treats, different pillows, covering it, moving it and nothing seems to get her to calm down and just sleep and accept it.
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Jul 23, 2012 19:54
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Veskit posted:My dog turns into a nightmare anytime she has to go in her kennel. What are some good tips to fix your dogs separation anxiety? It's getting harder and harder to even convince her to go into her crate. Treats don't work in the slightest anymore, and she's figured out how to eat in there without having her full body into it. Have you considered confining her using an ex-pen instead? Maybe she just really dislikes the crate and would be okay with being in a larger, yet still confined space. You can try kongs and treats in there, and put something that smells like you in there with her. That way she has space to move around, things to keep her busy, a reminder of you, and you can still confine her.
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Jul 23, 2012 20:08
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guarded by bees posted:Thank you guys so much for all of the advice in this awesome thread. I brought the puppy home today, and aside from a poopsplosion in the crate on the highway, everything's been fine. I gave him a quick happy bath when we got home (there was so much poop, he went from sleeping to making GBS threads in about 2 seconds). After his bath he got a cookie for his job well done, popped him into his crate and now he's passed out like it's no big deal. He snores itty bitty snores. Post pics!
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Jul 23, 2012 20:25
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Veskit posted:My dog turns into a nightmare anytime she has to go in her kennel. What are some good tips to fix your dogs separation anxiety? It's getting harder and harder to even convince her to go into her crate. Treats don't work in the slightest anymore, and she's figured out how to eat in there without having her full body into it. How have you introduced her to the kennel? Dogs have an instinct to den, so if introduced right kennels should be a pleasant thing for almost all of them. One of the easiest ways to do this is feed her/give her high-value rewards (regular dog biscuits aren't usually motivating enough, and dogs have personal preferences just like people so you may have to experiment a bit to find out what she likes; most dogs love cut up warm hot dogs though) only in the kennel. Depending on how afraid of it she is, even feeding her meals/storing her toys in there would work. Basically, from your post it sounds like you've gone about it backwards (sorry if I misinterpreted it). I started the same way with my GSD, because I'd never done crate trained before (though have owned crate-trained dogs and am familiar with the general principle) and initially rushed it so he viewed his kennel as a trap, not a safe spot. The key I've learned is just to keep feeding him and keeping his toys in the very back* of the kennel until he views it as a safe spot. During that phase he must be able to come and go as he pleases. Almost all animals have an instinctive fear of being trapped so a big part of crate training is just teaching them that yeah, good things (food or toys) happen in the crate, yeah I'll still be here, and yeah you can come and go as you please. Then once the dog is very comfortable with the kennel, she'll usually be okay about the gate being closed. During this phase if you're dealing with an only dog, pick up any other dog beds and put the crate in the room you spend the most time in. Make the crate the most comfortable spot in the house, and make sure your dog can come to you directly whenever she chooses, but don't reward her for doing so--the rewards are in the crate, you're just there as a security blanket. Basically, the biggest failure in crate training is people treating it like a punishment, even unintentionally. If your dog thinks that going in the crate means bad things happen (even if it's just you leaving while trying to make it pleasant for her), then she won't want to go in. If you spend a lot of time making her feel safe and secure in the crate, it will actually probably help with her separation anxiety because she will associate the crate with good things and safety. The really well crate-trained dogs I've had would use it as a refuge. For example, one was scared of thunderstorms and whenever one blew in she would run and lay in her crate. She'd be calm there but if we made her stay outside she'd freak. Apologies if this is too basic for you. I'm new at actually crate training a dog from scratch (though familiar with the principles from years for professional animal training), though I've had crate-trained dogs in the past as fosters. I'm currently training my GSD for it and this is what I've found most helpful. *Obviously you work your way back. With George I began with keeping them next to the crate, then just inside the gate, etc. I didn't use a timeline but instead looked for cues that he was totally relaxed, then move it back. edit: just for timelines, my GSD has separation issues as well. I've been crate training him for 6 weeks and we're just getting to the point where I close the gate for short periods while I'm in the room. With him it may be a little longer as he has some weird triggers for anxiety, but I don't think it's unreasonable with an adult dog. Dog training, particularly with anxiety/fear issues, takes a very long time with incremental progression. 2tomorrow fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Jul 23, 2012 |
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Jul 23, 2012 21:06
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wtftastic posted:Have you considered confining her using an ex-pen instead? Maybe she just really dislikes the crate and would be okay with being in a larger, yet still confined space. You can try kongs and treats in there, and put something that smells like you in there with her. That way she has space to move around, things to keep her busy, a reminder of you, and you can still confine her. I will Try this next time and see how it goes. 2tomorrow posted:I have always fed her in the place, store all her toys in there, and her favorite treat of a kong fulled with kibble and peanut butter does't persuade her to go in. She gets anxious if I leave the room to use the bathroom and will whine. I've been doing click training also and anytime she fully enters the thing I click and give treats for it too. I'm preeetttyy sure I did everything you're supposed to do for crate training, I just ended up with a dog who can't stand being away from her pack.
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Jul 23, 2012 22:18
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Veskit posted:I will Try this next time and see how it goes. Look up crate games videos on YouTube. Also, try looking for a book called I'll Be Home Soon, you can get it pretty cheap on Amazon, but it'll help you nip the separation anxiety in the bud by understanding it better. Good luck!
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Jul 23, 2012 23:21
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mcmagic posted:Post pics! Here we go:  So far he's got sit mostly down today, but I expect him to forget it tomorrow for some reason. He's more interested in snuggling and bringing me toys than he is in treats, so I've got smelly cookies for him now. He's bouncy as gently caress. No walking, only bouncing. No running, only Extreme Bouncing.  He's in love with one of the cats, who really doesn't give a gently caress about him and only cares that he's sometimes in the way. The other cat hates me for what I've done, and is in seclusion in the bathroom so he has some time to chill out (he stress-chews/swallows dangerous things). I need to get feliway and see if it helps him. He's so upset. :/  The puppy, Reggie, has had one accident in the crate at home. He never signaled, he just woke up, peed, went back to his bed and passed out. He's got a pooping spot, and is pretty good about being outside. He hasn't done any crying for the most part, aside from early this morning when he REALLY wanted to play but was too tired to keep going. Question time: I've been letting him play when he's awake for about an hour to an hour and a half (with bursts in there that are very bouncy, and moments of calm) before potty/naptime. Is this an okay thing for me to do, or should I try to get him to nap earlier? And, am I alright to continue letting him sleep until he wakes up?
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Jul 24, 2012 03:13
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We could use some tips for getting past the "bratty"/"testing boundries" stage of puppydom (she's 7 months, over a month at home with us). Stuff like ignoring commands she knows perfectly well, chomping stuff and leash biting on walks, barking for attention purposes [after tough intense play sessions, eating, and walk/bathroom breaks].
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Jul 24, 2012 03:58
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Tiny Faye posted:We could use some tips for getting past the "bratty"/"testing boundries" stage of puppydom (she's 7 months, over a month at home with us). Stuff like ignoring commands she knows perfectly well, chomping stuff and leash biting on walks, barking for attention purposes [after tough intense play sessions, eating, and walk/bathroom breaks]. The thing about attention seeking behavior is it's relatively easy to extinguish. Just don't give attention, difficult as it may be! Also make sure she gets enough physical exercise.
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Jul 24, 2012 06:06
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Yeah, I guess we're going to have to ride it out. The worst is when we have to put her harness on and she just refuses to sit at all. It's like having to hog tie her  Another thing is that she's a terribly light sleeper for a dog and on weekends or after work when we're around her a ton she gets kind of restless if we don't give her some mandatory "crate"/nap time to herself.
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Jul 24, 2012 12:45
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guarded by bees posted:Question time: You're fine. Just make sure he's getting enough sleep. Puppies should be sleeping something like 16 hours a day or something stupid like that. Just like babies, they're growing like crazy. I'd also try to avoid too much jumping or bouncing -- keep in mind that his joints are still very much in development. I've never seen any hard evidence or rules, but the general advice is to avoid activities that are going to be especially rough on their joints before about 2 years of age.
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Jul 24, 2012 14:22
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For a dog projected to be in the 35 lbs range as an adult, would neutering at 6 months cause any concerns for structural development? We've never really considered it an issue before because the dogs are all rescue mutts and who cares but I wanted to get a good scope of opinions this time.
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Jul 24, 2012 17:35
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If I personally had a new pup I would likely wait until 1-2 years at least before neutering or spaying. However, for a family pet you'll not likely see any negative repercussions if you did it at 6 months. Will you see structural repercussions? Yes. Will they be negative? Not necessarily.
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Jul 24, 2012 18:05
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Our vet is urging us to spay before first heat because the risk of mammary cancer goes up a fair bit if you wait until after, apparently. I don't know if there are other risks involved with neutering/spaying by a certain date, but we were also concerned about growth problems if doing it too early.
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Jul 24, 2012 18:26
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