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blindjoe posted:Now that my motor is done, I asked for a price on a v8 ej207. They are $4k. I am guessing I could get a fair amount done with my existing engine for that much. What do I get for a new short block? Is it worth replacing bearings or just getting something new? Do I get a wrecker 2.0 or are they as likely to be garbage as mine is? I will get the oil pickup, anything else? My plan at the moment is to get it running on the old turbo (how do you clean all the bits of metal out of a turbo? hot tank too?), then get a new 18g-XT-R and install the injectors I already got. I can't say what you're best route would be. I'm not a turbo guy. As for removal. Yes unbolt from transmission and pull the whole lump. Shouldn't take you more than a few hours. I can do an NA motor out in under three hours after doing it so many times. You only have to go under the car for header bolts and motor mounts.
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Jul 18, 2012 19:54
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blindjoe posted:Now that my motor is done, I asked for a price on a v8 ej207. They are $4k. I am guessing I could get a fair amount done with my existing engine for that much. What do I get for a new short block? Is it worth replacing bearings or just getting something new? Do I get a wrecker 2.0 or are they as likely to be garbage as mine is? I will get the oil pickup, anything else? My plan at the moment is to get it running on the old turbo (how do you clean all the bits of metal out of a turbo? hot tank too?), then get a new 18g-XT-R and install the injectors I already got. Look into a V7 Ej207. Shouldn't be as expensive as it doesn't have the twinscroll (you lose the awesome subie rumble with a twinscroll) and still packs a punch.
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Jul 18, 2012 20:09
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A cheaper and a bit more standard approach is to get an EJ257 shortblock from a dealer (~1700 last I checked), heads redone (~1000? I don't really know) and then have that hybrid assembled/installed/tuned. There is definitely no reason to go back to the EJ205 or to repair the 205 block you have, the EJ207 is a tangent path if you really want to go that route.
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Jul 18, 2012 22:29
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I just got a full rebuild (forged internals) on my 06 Still after 2 pistons were cracked and full of oil. When the car hits 3 - 3.5 revs in any gear its starts stuttering and jumping around. They told me it was tune related but after tunning it seems to still be doing it. They are street tunning it. We did a thousand kilometers to run then engine in before tunning. Any idea what it could be? There still looking I'm just really worried..
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Jul 18, 2012 22:31
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MrZig posted:Look into a V7 Ej207. Shouldn't be as expensive as it doesn't have the twinscroll (you lose the awesome subie rumble with a twinscroll) and still packs a punch. Story from this company I found on nasioc was that v7's are the same price, and are hard to find in japan, along with having more miles. Do you know of a engine source? Im in Vancouver, BC. The nasioc thread on 2.0 vs 2.5 had many people preferring the 2.0. I am a little scared of JDM parts availability. All things to think about I guess. Time to get the engine out of the car to see what the problem is.
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Jul 19, 2012 00:13
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blindjoe posted:Story from this company I found on nasioc was that v7's are the same price, and are hard to find in japan, along with having more miles. Do you know of a engine source? Im in Vancouver, BC. Sup BC buddy. I live in Kelowna. There's a huge Subaru crowd here I'm friends with, and a guy at the Kelowna Subaru dealership is really good at finding engines. If you're really serious I could give you some contact info. I think most people prefer the 2.0 because it's JAY DEE EMM and it revs out to 8k, also V8s are twinscroll which makes more power & reduces turbo lag. The V7s have forged pistons, they all have better heads etc. However, the 2.5 has higher compression and more torque off boost, plus you can find 2.5 blocks everywhere around here, like you said JDM parts are kind've rare. Personally if I was road racing I'd get a 207, but for a dd I'd probably just throw in an EJ257 from an 04/05 and call it a day.
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Jul 19, 2012 00:21
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So I finally bought a scooby and it has a bad engine. Its a 99 Forester with no rust and a 5 speed. The phase 1 engines that I found for it were super expensive for the mileage on them so I went with an 02 engine that I got with 116k on it. chrisgt took the time to tell me what it would take to put the phase 2 in but like the slacker that I am I didn't write it down at the time. After looking around a little I think that I just have to take the heads of the phase 1 thats in the car and put them on the 02 block that I got so it will fit without modifying the engine harness and the intake manifold will be the same. My question is that if I have to do anything else. The 02 engine also came out of a car with an auto so I know I have to put the pilot bearing in and put the flywheel on thats in the Forester already. Is there any other differences besides the linkage on the throttle body that I should know about? I have ordered a new clutch, timing belt kit with water pump and a gasket kit with the MLS headgaskets that will go on the new engine before it goes in. I plan on getting a new thermostat from Subaru too. Is there anything else I should worry about? Does the oil pickup problem affect all the EJs or just the turbo engines? Killer B makes the nice new pickup and I was wondering if it is necessary. I will buy it if it is cheap insurance. Thanks in advance on any advice you guys can give me, I'm so looking forward to getting this car on the road. If all goes well it should be next week sometime. I just sold my only car with working A/C and its been hot as poo poo so I need that again. Here are some pictures:  New engine 
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Jul 19, 2012 01:04
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I don't know about everything else, but I have had the oil pressure light come on in tight corners in my 99 Forester before with the full amount of oil in there, so it probably does effect all the EJ's.
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Jul 19, 2012 01:33
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Well according to this it is because the pickup tube cracks. I didn't know about the cornering problem 
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Jul 19, 2012 01:41
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To be fair it was a super tight hair-pin that was taken at probably twice the recommended speed, so it's probably not a huge issue like in some engines that will do it in mild sweepers. Didn't know about the pick up tube cracking, that is worrying, and could be what caused mine to do it in the first place, I haven't dropped the oil pan yet.
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Jul 19, 2012 02:05
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Bill Tulley, if you have extra money, get an STi pan and pickup from an online subaru parts vendor. It is still the flawed design, but a new one should be better than a tired one. That's what I did when I needed a new pan for my broken stock 02 pan. Part #'s are in my big dumb project thread from Jamal. If you want to do it right, go nuts and get the killer B pickup. Also, paging ChrisGT now.
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Jul 19, 2012 04:01
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Billy Tully posted:So I finally bought a scooby and it has a bad engine. Its a 99 Forester with no rust and a 5 speed. The phase 1 engines that I found for it were super expensive for the mileage on them so I went with an 02 engine that I got with 116k on it. chrisgt took the time to tell me what it would take to put the phase 2 in but like the slacker that I am I didn't write it down at the time. After looking around a little I think that I just have to take the heads of the phase 1 thats in the car and put them on the 02 block that I got so it will fit without modifying the engine harness and the intake manifold will be the same. My question is that if I have to do anything else. That car DOES have a phase2 engine, it just has a one-year only intake manifold. You have to change the intake manifold from your old engine to the 02 engine. You don't need to swap heads. Pull the timing covers and make sure the lobes on the crank gears look the same, I bet they do. If they don't, use the crank gear and old driver's side cam. Otherwise, disregard. You don't have to do anything to use the automatic engine in the manual except bolt a flywheel on. Use the longer bolts for the flywheel, they're longer than the flexplate bolts. The pilot bearing is installed in the flywheel, not the crank. Change the bearing, they only cost a few bucks. IIRC you can use a 22mm socket to drive it in.
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Jul 19, 2012 04:07
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You need the STI/06wrx pan to use the Killer B pickup anyway. The baffle would do more for lateral G starvation than the pickup ever would.
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Jul 19, 2012 06:04
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So, I am probably going to be looking at a 2001 Forester with a stick this weekend. Is there anything in particular I should be looking for or asking about? Edit: has just over 85k miles on it. Asking price $7k. Does this seem too low to be true? It seems really low to me.
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Jul 19, 2012 07:56
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Terrible Robot posted:I don't know about everything else, but I have had the oil pressure light come on in tight corners in my 99 Forester before with the full amount of oil in there, so it probably does effect all the EJ's. Mate, if you have that happening, you got something seriously wrong going on. The oil light should NEVER come on after engine start esp full oil. I would be having a good look quickly (If its the same kind of oil pickup as the WRX then..... I wouldnt bet on the engine lasting too long if the pickup is cracked)
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Jul 19, 2012 08:02
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Cat Terrist posted:Mate, if you have that happening, you got something seriously wrong going on. The oil light should NEVER come on after engine start esp full oil. I would be having a good look quickly (If its the same kind of oil pickup as the WRX then..... I wouldnt bet on the engine lasting too long if the pickup is cracked) As I said before, it only happened during a very sharp corner taken at a fairly high speed, plus it's got 246K miles on it. Combine that with a whole slew of other problems (I could almost see the Subaru dealer shop manager's eyes turn to dollar signs when I brought it in for a once over), and it wouldn't really surprise me at all if the engine exploded tomorrow. Mind, I'd still be pissed since it got a new(ish) transmission, clutch/flywheel and starter on Monday, but then if it does that just opens room up for a turbo engine...  It's due for an oil change anyway, may as well drop the pan and check while I'm at it. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Jul 19, 2012 |
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Jul 19, 2012 08:33
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Casu Marzu posted:So, I am probably going to be looking at a 2001 Forester with a stick this weekend. Is there anything in particular I should be looking for or asking about? We just bought our '02 Forester S Premium with a 5 speed and 139k miles for $4800 so around $7k for much lower mileage sounds about fair, if a little high. We're in Pittsburgh where there are probably more Subarus than people though. Pay attention to see if it has any leaks from the head gaskets, and it's going to need its timing belt done not very far down the road.
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Jul 19, 2012 11:19
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Thanks for the info guys. I might just go with the STI pickup and pan. Good to know I can probably keep the lower mileage heads and just have to switch the intake. The clutch kit comes with a new pilot bearing so that is definitely going in.
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Jul 19, 2012 12:39
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I'm looking to get a replacement for my 04 two door svt focus within the next 10 months or so. I need four doors now and my wife would prefer it to be awd. I'd like to get something sporty. I'm considering the wrx, assuming it doesn't change for 2013. This will be my daily driver, average of 10k miles a year. I won't be racing it and I don't have a lead foot either. What sort of a maintenance money pit, compared to something like a Jetta GLI or Civic Si, would I be looking at? I've read anecdotal posts about the 2.5 reliability and glass transmissions which have me a bit concerned.
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Jul 19, 2012 13:34
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Boner Buffet posted:I'd like to get something sporty. I'm considering the wrx, [..] I don't have a lead foot either. quote:I've read anecdotal posts about the 2.5 reliability and glass transmissions which have me a bit concerned. I'd look into getting an open source or Accessport tune since the stock tune has some dumb stuff in it for emissions that could damage your car under sustained wide-open-throttle acceleration. If you don't, it's probably fine - the majority of WRXes out there are still on the stock tune, I'm sure, and there's no chronic series of engines exploding (certainly no 08+ WRX on here has ever had an engine fail from the stock tune). As far as being a "money pit" I don't think that really applies to the WRX, unless you get a total lemon. Oil changes are a lot more frequent than on the Si or GLI, but that's the only maintenance cost I can think of that wouldn't show up as frequently on the other two.
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Jul 19, 2012 14:34
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Faerunner posted:We just bought our '02 Forester S Premium with a 5 speed and 139k miles for $4800 so around $7k for much lower mileage sounds about fair, if a little high. We're in Pittsburgh where there are probably more Subarus than people though. Yeah, the head gasket thing worries me Looking over guides on replacement online makes me contemplate looking for something else. I don't think I have the space and tools to do it myself and it's expensive as heck for a mechanic to do it.Also, Subarus in WI hold their value ridiculously well. I see foresters and outbacks going for 7-8k with 150k miles or more. 
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Jul 19, 2012 17:50
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I bought my 2006 Impreza wagon a couple weeks ago. 140,000km, head gaskets and clutch just changed. $7000 CDN. A 2001 Forester is not worth $7K USD.
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Jul 19, 2012 19:38
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Question time. What the hell does 'MY' mean? I see it all the time with Subarus, right before the model year. For example: MY2004 WRX MY2008 STI etc. What is it?! It's not as simple as being the poster's own car is it?
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Jul 19, 2012 20:01
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MrZig posted:Question time. What the hell does 'MY' mean? I see it all the time with Subarus, right before the model year.
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Jul 19, 2012 20:02
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 Seriously? Well, at least now I know. Thanks. Doesn't really explain why people use it though? That's like saying "Number2 plus Number2 equals Answer4". Seems weird to me.
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Jul 19, 2012 20:05
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Model years on most cars are independent of the calendar years. It's why you can buy an MY2013 BRZ right now. Beats me why people use it, personally I figured it can't hurt to be precise.
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Jul 19, 2012 20:08
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Sockington posted:I bought my 2006 Impreza wagon a couple weeks ago. 140,000km, head gaskets and clutch just changed. Eh, it all depends on the market around you I guess. Ours has a "new" transmission and clutch (The clutch I'm pretty sure is actually new, I'm betting the transmission was just a rebuild/repair of whatever issue it had previously) but slightly externally leaky head gaskets. The dealer wanted about $5500 for it originally but we talked him down due to the head gaskets and the price to replace them.
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Jul 19, 2012 20:28
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MrZig posted:
It's also largely a Subaru thing from what I've seen. I've owned and been a part of many car forums over the years and Subaru guys seem to be the only ones that make the effort to put MY before everything.
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Jul 19, 2012 20:36
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Faerunner posted:Eh, it all depends on the market around you I guess. But you see, you did the right thing and got it lower. $7000 is A LOT of money for an almost 12year old non-turbo Subaru (GC coupes excluded). Edit: I live in Canada. Home of Rust and Overpriced Subarus.
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Jul 19, 2012 21:37
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For reference there's a 2001 Forester here that just had its head gaskets done and they want $2200 for it. However the rest of the car is kind of a shambles. I am finding it harder and harder to justify an exorbitant price for Subarus as my $1000 OBS has been more reliable than most people's $40k 2012 STIs.
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Jul 19, 2012 21:42
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Two years ago I paid $12,500 for a completely unmolested 04 WRX with 58k on it that had been owned by an old guy as a second car. And I live in the heart of New England. I'd pay, like, $4k for an old n/a Foz.
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Jul 19, 2012 21:46
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I just bought an 02 Forester S Limited for $3750 CDN - high KMs(263k), but the thing is near immaculate inside and out. Don't know if the head gasket has been done - I'd heard about that and asked, but the sales guy didn't know. Anything else I should know about, or look for? Enjoying my flannel-wearing future immensely already.
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Jul 19, 2012 22:41
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This page has apparently become a Forester party, and I'm cool with that. I got my Forester S for $2,900 US, with 219,000 miles on it but in fantastic shape body and interior wise. All the problems it has now didn't really show up til I'd owned it for a month or so, and most were caused by the PO being a fuckwit. I still love this car though, and it only left me stranded once when the radiator cracked, but it was right across the street from an autoparts store so  .Make sure you drive it a good distance during the test-drive and then make a series of tight circles in a parking lot, if there is a noticeable thunk/jerking in the drive-line the center-differential is probably hosed (I didn't drive mine long enough to notice this until I got it home ), and that means transmission replacement.
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Jul 19, 2012 23:00
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Billy Tully posted:So I finally bought a scooby and it has a bad engine. Its a 99 Forester with no rust and a 5 speed. The phase 1 engines that I found for it were super expensive for the mileage on them so I went with an 02 engine that I got with 116k on it. chrisgt took the time to tell me what it would take to put the phase 2 in but like the slacker that I am I didn't write it down at the time. After looking around a little I think that I just have to take the heads of the phase 1 thats in the car and put them on the 02 block that I got so it will fit without modifying the engine harness and the intake manifold will be the same. My question is that if I have to do anything else. A '99 should have a Phase 2 (SOHC) engine in it already.
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Jul 20, 2012 01:11
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CharlesM posted:A '99 should have a Phase 2 (SOHC) engine in it already. Yea, thats what chrisgt said too so I guess I just have to use the intake manifold from the 99. I got the new used engine all pulled apart today and ready for the new gaskets. I drove the car a little more and the suspension, brakes and steering seem like they will be ok for a while. I didn't know until just now about driving it in a tight circle to check the center diff but I'll do it later. So far: $500 for the car $1100 for the 116k '02 EJ25 $500ish for the gasket kit, timing belt kit with water pump and clutch kit If it needs less than $400 worth of parts once I start driving it I should have a pretty sweet rust free Forester for $2500.
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Jul 20, 2012 02:50
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Billy Tully posted:Yea, thats what chrisgt said too so I guess I just have to use the intake manifold from the 99. I got the new used engine all pulled apart today and ready for the new gaskets. I drove the car a little more and the suspension, brakes and steering seem like they will be ok for a while. I didn't know until just now about driving it in a tight circle to check the center diff but I'll do it later. I would have sold you my new EJ25 and new heads for less than that. 
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Jul 20, 2012 02:52
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Sockington posted:I would have sold you my new EJ25 and new heads for less than that. Ah, dammit. I thought yours was a EJ22 for some reason.
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Jul 20, 2012 03:05
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Today, on my way to work a fence decided to fight my Subaru.      My Liberty saved my life. Thank you old girl, you let me walk away from this with only a few scratches from glass. I'm never not buying a subrau again, built like a brick.
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Jul 21, 2012 03:22
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Jesus. When I saw the red on the end of that post I thought it had killed your passenger, then I realized you were in a right hand drive country, then I figured you got horribly injured. I'm glad you're OK.
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Jul 21, 2012 03:30
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Cheers. I'm a bit shaken up but other than that plus a few cuts on my hand I'm totally fine. Can't believe my luck and how well the car protected me.
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Jul 21, 2012 03:32
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