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The only thing else I'd wonder about is whether coffee has the proteins to create the foam with the creamer tap.
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Jul 24, 2012 02:48
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zedprime posted:The only thing else I'd wonder about is whether coffee has the proteins to create the foam with the creamer tap. Probably remedied with some maltodextrin.
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Jul 24, 2012 03:01
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Yeah, I'm going off of espresso crema coming through partially from high pressure. Hopefully high pressure (admittedly not as much) and tiny little holes will do the same. Only one way to find out!
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Jul 24, 2012 03:02
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Could someone describe the off flavors from fermenting at too high a temp? We keep our house around 72F year round, and pretty much every beer I've made has been "off" somehow. There's a certain twang? I can't describe it, but I'm wondering if it has to do with fermenting too hot. I don't think it's an infection, because deep down it still tastes like beer only not good. Besides, I sanitize things compulsively. I have a pumpkin spiced beer in the fermenter right now, and it's the first brew I've attempted temp control using a large tub with water and ice bottles. I kept it around 65 for the first 8 or 9 days until the obvious fermentation was done. Since then it's been sitting in primary at room temp. Hopefully this turns out without the strange flavor. I'll be bottling it in a couple days, and gravity samples are already more promising than any of my previous batches.
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Jul 24, 2012 03:26
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U.S. Barryl posted:Could someone describe the off flavors from fermenting at too high a temp? We keep our house around 72F year round, and pretty much every beer I've made has been "off" somehow. There's a certain twang? I can't describe it, but I'm wondering if it has to do with fermenting too hot. I don't think it's an infection, because deep down it still tastes like beer only not good. Besides, I sanitize things compulsively. Honestly, 72 is not hot enough to throw a ton of off-flavors, particularly if you're using US05 or some other healthy, clean yeast. Angry Grimace fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 03:38
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U.S. Barryl posted:Could someone describe the off flavors from fermenting at too high a temp? Big fruit and spice, generally. The fruit can range from Kool-Ade "red" to heavy overripe banana. Spices can be clove, nutmeg, anise, and so on. You might also get a "hot" alcohol flavor, like drinking cheap hot sake.
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Jul 24, 2012 03:42
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It's definitely not butter, but I suppose there's a bit of fruitiness. It doesn't quite describe what I'm tasting though. There's for sure a bit of apple to it but, it's mostly chemical-ish. edit: I sanitize with star-san for what it's worth, so I don't rinse anything off, but I don't think it would leave a chemical taste behind. The more I research, I'm guessing it's fusels. I don't know, but it's getting discouraging. U.S. Barryl fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 03:45
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I've always brewed without temp control, 68-72f. Most of my stuff comes out good, the only failures I've had were just poor recipe experiments. Do you do extract batches? I've found that my extract beers don't taste as good as all grain or even half mash. They all have "that syrup taste"...
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Jul 24, 2012 03:49
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Apple sounds like acetaldehyde, which is a by-product of fermentation that some yeast are known for producing. Chemicalish could be phenols, which might be caused by chlorine in your brewing water. You might consider using a Campden tab in your water before you add any malt just for cheap insurance. Star-San is not your problem, I'm as near to certain as I can be. Fusels would likely be too high a temp. How's your head after a couple of glasses? Headaches? Hangovers after "I don't think I drank *that* much"? Those symptoms might indicate fusels (or possibly acetaldehyde - what yeast are you using?).
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Jul 24, 2012 03:54
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I'm using mainly US-05, and the last beer that just finished is Wyeast 1335 British Ale. Now that you mention it, I'm getting a bit too hungover for just having a few beers. The beer I just finished using 1335 has only been in bottles for 8 days. I just opened one, and it's perfectly carbed but has the same weird flavor. I'm gonna let that one sit in the basement for another couple weeks and try again. I really hope this next beer that I used temp control for clears up my issue, and I can attribute this crap to hot temps. I'm guessing that if my house is 72 then the beer itself can get to like 77 or 78 on it's own during fermentation, so I'm assuming that poo poo is just too hot. edit: I suppose I should clear up that my most recent batch was all-grain, and that I usually only brew using bottled spring water. The most recent batch was my first all grain attempt and I boiled off so much drat water that I topped up with 2 gallons of tap water. This ended up being pretty drat chemically, so maybe it's a water issue. U.S. Barryl fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 04:02
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Jo3sh posted:You might also get a "hot" alcohol flavor, like drinking cheap hot sake. I made one beer that was WAY over gravity and therefore didn't get enough yeast pitched (don't brew while drunk, kids!), and also fermented a bit too hot. Holy crap, drinking just a couple pints of that would give you a headache worse than a box of discount red wine. Never making that mistake again.
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Jul 24, 2012 04:21
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Hypnolobster, a couple points: the straight CO2 of a Sodastream always sems to also add a metallic note, like the difference between good grain alcohol like Golden Grain and Everclear. Also, Guiness gas is actually special compared to normal beergas; when done right, it's supposed to be 65/35, higher nitro.
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Jul 24, 2012 04:36
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clutchpuck posted:I've always brewed without temp control, 68-72f. Most of my stuff comes out good, the only failures I've had were just poor recipe experiments. I don't want to seem like a snob, but liquid extract is not good unless you 1) Get it very fresh, 2) Use the lightest extract you can and 3) Use it quickly. This is why on the rare occasions I choose to do extract brews, I go for dried extract only. It keeps far better, it's easier to measure and dole out, and the colour is lighter which gives you more control over the colour of your beer because you can choose what specialty grains to use and in what proportions. So to reiterate my general system for doing extract brews: - Use dried extract - Use the lightest colour you can get your hands on, using specialty grains to control final colour - If not using wheat extract (I'm not sure why this is, but in my experience dried wheat extract is the exception to the rule), you should do at least a partial mash.
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Jul 24, 2012 04:41
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U.S. Barryl posted:edit: I suppose I should clear up that my most recent batch was all-grain, and that I usually only brew using bottled spring water. The most recent batch was my first all grain attempt and I boiled off so much drat water that I topped up with 2 gallons of tap water. This ended up being pretty drat chemically, so maybe it's a water issue. I had this happen when I didn't de-chlorinate my water. It kind of tasted the way public swimming pools smell. The rest of my beers have been de-chlorinated with campden tablets and they taste fine.
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Jul 24, 2012 04:48
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U.S. Barryl posted:I'm guessing that if my house is 72 then the beer itself can get to like 77 or 78 on it's own during fermentation[....] This is almost certainly true.
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Jul 24, 2012 04:55
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crazyfish posted:I don't want to seem like a snob, but liquid extract is not good unless you 1) Get it very fresh, 2) Use the lightest extract you can and 3) Use it quickly. This is why on the rare occasions I choose to do extract brews, I go for dried extract only. It keeps far better, it's easier to measure and dole out, and the colour is lighter which gives you more control over the colour of your beer because you can choose what specialty grains to use and in what proportions. I definitely hear you about color control. But I still get "that syrup taste" from the dry stuff when it's the main fermentable. I use the liquid stuff because I tend to have a hard time getting all the powder extract evenly dissolved and I end up making a sticky mess all over myself. But since I moved to AG and half-mash processes, I use little extract at all, mostly just to bump to target OG to correct for poor efficiency.
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Jul 24, 2012 05:13
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If you want to move away from extract brewing without the investment for more equipment, you could always move to a brew in a bag setup. I'm actually planning on trying it out with my next batch because AG is extremely difficult in my small apartment.
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Jul 24, 2012 05:28
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My half-mash batches are BIAB. I love the process and I would do AG BIAB if I had a larger pot. Simplifies cleanup, no stuck sparge, etc.
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Jul 24, 2012 05:39
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Just finished bottling my IPA, removing labels takes for-goddamn-ever (yes I used Oxyclean). Wort tasted excellent - maybe not quite as bitter as I wanted but hopefully priming will add a little more bite too it; very nice hop aroma from dry-hopping too. I may have over-primed slightly for an IPA (primed for 23 L, and ended up with 21.3 L bottled); I think it'll end up with just over 2.4 volumes of CO2, which is well within acceptable limits for lagers and such, so the bottles shouldn't have a problem (I think...)
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Jul 24, 2012 06:26
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Jo3sh posted:Apple sounds like acetaldehyde, which is a by-product of fermentation that some yeast are known for producing. Chemicalish could be phenols, which might be caused by chlorine in your brewing water. You might consider using a Campden tab in your water before you add any malt just for cheap insurance. Star-San is not your problem, I'm as near to certain as I can be. Fusels would likely be too high a temp. Chemical ness could also be the dread plastic flavor that can come with certain strains at high temperature. There's also some bugbear nail polish remover ester me and a guy at the club taste more often than not but is seemingly volatile enough that 15 minutes after a pour it is gone. I've had it show a couple weeks after first pulling from a keg. I don't understand it at all because of that.
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Jul 24, 2012 08:29
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crazyfish posted:I don't want to seem like a snob, but liquid extract is not good unless you 1) Get it very fresh, 2) Use the lightest extract you can and 3) Use it quickly. This is why on the rare occasions I choose to do extract brews, I go for dried extract only. It keeps far better, it's easier to measure and dole out, and the colour is lighter which gives you more control over the colour of your beer because you can choose what specialty grains to use and in what proportions. Doing a partial mash seems like it defeats the benefit of doing an extract batch. JawKnee posted:Just finished bottling my IPA, removing labels takes for-goddamn-ever (yes I used Oxyclean). 
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Jul 24, 2012 09:33
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Angry Grimace posted:Doing a partial mash seems like it defeats the benefit of doing an extract batch. Somewhat. It's a lot easier to manage a 3-4lb grain bill for most people than 10-11lbs, and since you're not relying on grain to get *most* of your fermentables, there's more room for error.
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Jul 24, 2012 14:59
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recent posts posted:extract hate While most of this is/could be true. I think it should be stated that extract brewing is still making beer, it is still going to be very tasty, and you are no less of a human being if you use extract. I think that sort of 'hard line' speak from another, maybe more knowledgeable brewer can be hard on someone who is either looking at getting into brewing and may be scared off of investing in all-grain as well as making those who use extract feel bad for doing so. We should maybe try to avoid chastising people for dipping their toes in the pool while we splash around in the deep end.
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Jul 24, 2012 19:32
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My first two were extracts that came out really tasty, then the next two were partials that came out really tasty, and now I'm doing all-grain in a cooler. We just bottled one of them last night, it came out really tasty (Northern Brewer's Bier de Table kit, a lot like Oberon without the citrus and I think I'm adding ginger next time around). Make beer. Then get better and more refined at making beer. This extract stuff might be true (I dunno), but it's nitpicking a baseline of already good beer.
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Jul 24, 2012 19:50
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Jacobey000 posted:I think it should be stated that extract brewing is still making beer, it is still going to be very tasty, and you are no less of a human being if you use extract. I absolutely agree. You can (and should!) make really excellent beer from extract. It's a great way to get started for a small initial investment, and you can keep making great beer forever that way. Contest winners can and are made from extract, and it is not in any way 'second-class' brewing. I think the big issues are really in freshness of the extract and in temperature control during the ferment. We've talked about both of these issues recently and they will no doubt come up again.
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Jul 24, 2012 20:02
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Jo3sh posted:I think the big issues are really in freshness of the extract and in temperature control during the ferment. Which really are serious issues in all-grain too, right? So v v
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Jul 24, 2012 20:07
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Sure, but by the time a brewer has gone all-grain, he probably has invested some effort and money into the hobby and almost certainly has already worked through some of those issues. Correlation != causation; all-grain brewers have fewer issues because they are more experienced brewers, not because they aren't using extract.
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Jul 24, 2012 20:14
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Whenever I brew a hefeweizen I use extract  It comes out really good so why should I change the recipe?
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Jul 24, 2012 20:51
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Kaiho posted:I buy from Brewuk. Their starter is better. Also, everything jo3sh said makes sense. Do you mean this kit? I won't be in London till probably mid-September, but I'll be sure to check out the Home Brew Club when I'm back  Thanks a lot for the advice everyone!
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Jul 24, 2012 21:27
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Mecharasputin posted:Do you mean this kit? Umm, I think I do. :P See what the price of that would be compared to a bucket, bottling wand, star-san (UK brew shops tend to sell PBW chlorine-based cleaner/sanitiser which needs rinsing), syphon, thermometer and your choice of kit. What I'm saying is that you don't necessarily need that pressure barrel - especially if you get a bottling wand. That way it's easier to give to friends and keep cold - just throw a few bottles in the fridge. That's not to say pressure barrels aren't good (I have two now). They are suitable for English-style low-carbonation ale. You can't serve lagers, German-style high-carbonation beers or American ales from them. I found this out through making the mistake of placing heavily-primed wheat beer into one. Also if you want to move away from canned kits (like included in that kit you linked) you will want a large stock pot and a good slotted spoon with a long handle. I brew with extract and it is piss-easy once you get the hang of it and the taste is hella better.
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Jul 24, 2012 22:04
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I've already got a pot I'm definitely planning on moving away from canned kits after I'm through with the one included in the set. Yay bear!  e: Yay beer, that is! 
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Jul 24, 2012 23:18
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Yeah, I'd say a canned kit is a useful primer in how well you can control temperature, what to expect from your equipment in terms of what fermentation looks/sounds/smells like, what it takes to prime and bottle/barrel beer, etc. But you get so much more from the hobby if you start to mess around with the ingredients. I threw the second load of dry hops into my 7.5 percenter tonight. 30 grams of Cascade, 20 grams of Simcoe. There's already that amount sitting in that puppy in addition to the 70 grams of kettle hops. Basically I am dry hopping the hell out of it to see how many of my friends like the aroma of fresh hops as much as I do. Bottling in another 5-6 days.
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Jul 24, 2012 23:31
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Alright, so apparently no one in the Greater Vancouver Area sells apricot extract, so I guess I'm making a puree for my apricot wheat ale. I don't have any experience making this kind of thing for beers, but I have made such things for deserts and coulis and such before - is it a similar process? I'm figuring on boiling fresh apricots to get the skins off, then stewing them in either maple syrup or honey (or brown sugar?) for an hour + to pasteurize. Should I throw any other spices or anything else in there? How much would be an appropriate amount for a 5 gallon batch? And finally, I understand that not using an extract means I'm going to have to let it ferment for a while in the secondary; assuming I've done that, how should I handle priming a batch like this to avoid exploding bottles?
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Jul 24, 2012 23:49
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You're gonna want to include at least a portion of the skins, and figure on at least 1lb/gal to get any sort of substantial contribution. When I do/did my pear wit I'd do 1.75lbs/gallon of pears and an additional pound of apples.
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Jul 25, 2012 01:59
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I racked a 1 month old lambic onto 9 lbs of blueberries two days ago and I thought that I might have filled the carboy too much. Turns out I was right. Foam and blueberry guts were pushing there way out of the airlock, so I siphoned a little bit out for tasting. It's already tasting slightly tart and funky as well as the sweet blueberry. I can't wait for it to finish. I also tried force carbonating a keg for the first time yesterday and I think it turned out. The Kolsch was definitely carbed, but because it was extra hoppy and the fact that I only did a primary, it ended up a little chunky. I'm sure it will settle out though.
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Jul 25, 2012 02:02
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I usually go from primary to keg. Its so much quicker, and with a whirl floc tab and some careful and un-greedy racking, it will come out pretty clear.
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Jul 25, 2012 02:17
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Speaking of watermelon wheat beers (from the main beer thread), I want to make one as a quick-turnaround thirst quencher of a session beer, and since I feel kinda lazy, I'll be doing my standard extract wheat beer as a base: 6 lbs wheat DME 1/2 lb Belgian aromatic 1/4 lb flaked oats 1oz czech saaz @ 60 1oz czech saaz @ 5 My question is, what should I do to get watermelon in the beer without risking infection? Should I just cut up a watermelon on a sanitized cutting board and dump it all in after primary and hope for the best?
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Jul 25, 2012 02:38
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crazyfish posted:Speaking of watermelon wheat beers (from the main beer thread), I want to make one as a quick-turnaround thirst quencher of a session beer, and since I feel kinda lazy, I'll be doing my standard extract wheat beer as a base: Watermelon has a super mild flavor. You would need a ton of it, like literally two large watermelons. I mean, I would suggest trying to sterilize it with campden, but I have no clue if that would work with those melons. I really can't see you being able to boil it, though.
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Jul 25, 2012 03:38
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If you try and boil watermelon I'm not sure you're going to have any watermelon flavor left. If you dump in whole watermelon I think it's either going to dilute the beer or just do nothing. Maybe putting it in a blender and simmering that in a stockpot until it reduces by a shitload would work. Possibly strain out the pulp before trying to reduce it.
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Jul 25, 2012 03:44
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Angry Grimace posted:Watermelon has a super mild flavor. You would need a ton of it, like literally two large watermelons. I mean, I would suggest trying to sterilize it with campden, but I have no clue if that would work with those melons. I really can't see you being able to boil it, though. I was figuring on using an entire watermelon, but I might up that to a watermelon and a half. Searching around, people seem to be straining the juice out of the melon and adding that to the beer, which could work better as I won't have to have to throw two watermelons worth of fruit into a 6 gallon bucket that already has 5 gallons of beer in it.
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Jul 25, 2012 03:49
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