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I think I'd finally like to invest in my own air compressor, mainly so I can get an impact wrench that isn't useless, but I don't have a ton of money to spend at the moment. Does this compressor seem like a good deal, if it's paired with this wrench?
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# ? Jul 19, 2012 02:44 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 22:48 |
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That will be terrible for running air tools. Are you stuck with no 220 outlet? Why don't you craigslist a used one 5 cfm is really low.
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# ? Jul 19, 2012 10:34 |
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Maybe my ignorance is showing, but why do you say that? It's rated for 5.5 CFM @ 90 PSI, and the impact gun (supposedly) uses 4.8 CFM at the same pressure, so it wouldn't be cycling all the time... right? It's not like I need a massive 60 gallon tank or something.
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# ? Jul 19, 2012 16:47 |
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That will be fine. I use most air tools on my 5 gallon HOTROD compressor, which is some $99 junky thing. I just have a really low duty cycle on the tools while you wait for it to refill.
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# ? Jul 19, 2012 17:24 |
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Yeah my compressor is also a piece of poo poo, but it runs like every tool just fine, just not continuously for a long time.
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# ? Jul 19, 2012 19:29 |
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MiniFoo posted:Maybe my ignorance is showing, but why do you say that? It's rated for 5.5 CFM @ 90 PSI, and the impact gun (supposedly) uses 4.8 CFM at the same pressure, so it wouldn't be cycling all the time... right? It's not like I need a massive 60 gallon tank or something. The rating on the wrench is BS. Either they're giving the free spinning cfm or it's averaged over some short duty cycle. Under load it's more like 20-30cfm. With a tank that small you're only going to get a few seconds use before you lose pressure. Might be fine for changing wheels if you don't mind waiting a few minutes between each one. The big pain in the rear end is when you're fighting with seized up bolts and each one takes 20 minutes because you're always waiting for more air. That said, if you have to have a portable compressor, that's an excellent choice. This is another good one, with a slightly larger tank.
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# ? Jul 19, 2012 20:12 |
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CFM ratings piss me off. ACFM, ICFM, or SCFM drat it.
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# ? Jul 20, 2012 01:14 |
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It sucks for us suckers that have to be stuck with 120V outlets. Though I have been looking at possibly getting a gas powered compressor. The CFM rating is high, portable to where ever you need air, the track, etc... I see it as an upside. The rating on this one is 9.0 CFM, but I have seen higher. http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-compressors/212-cc-9-gallon-135-psi-gas-powered-wheelbarrow-air-compressor-68140.html Drawbacks... Noise. But I guess all compressors are noisy to a point. But here is a good idea for silencing the engine. Gotta maintain another engine. Gas. Oil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JeV0zH-zD_o
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# ? Jul 20, 2012 08:10 |
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Drawbacks... Noise. But I guess all compressors are noisy to a point. But here is a good idea for silencing the engine. Gotta maintain another engine. Gas. Oil.
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# ? Jul 20, 2012 13:36 |
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grover posted:How much impact does it have on engine power? Does it reduce power output at all? It didn't do anything that I could tell to my 5k generator. Brigs motor, so it's still noisy and clangy because the internals on those motors sound like you're throwing a box of silverware down the steps when they're spinning, but at least very little exhaust noise. I think the muffler I used was supposed to go on a 4cyl Accord from the early 90s.
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# ? Jul 20, 2012 13:58 |
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So, before I get at it, are there any secret techniques to helicoil thread inserts? I have a couple of stripped M10x1.25 bolt holes for a sway bar bracket, and the helicoils look (deceptively?) easy if you're patient and don't try to do it from a weird angle. Any advice appreciated.
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# ? Jul 21, 2012 00:24 |
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1st Edition ADandD posted:So, before I get at it, are there any secret techniques to helicoil thread inserts? I have a couple of stripped M10x1.25 bolt holes for a sway bar bracket, and the helicoils look (deceptively?) easy if you're patient and don't try to do it from a weird angle. Any advice appreciated. The only "secret" to helicoiling is knowing how to properly cut threads. This means your drilling and tapping MUST BE STRAIGHT. Yeah, I don't care how good you think you are.....it's not gonna be straight by hand. If being off a bit is OK for the application, go for it. If not, make a guide so you know you're straight. Wait...you don't have the facilities to make a template? Yeah...not all helicoil jobs are easy....sorry. For a sway bar bracket, chances are good being off a bit isn't a big deal, so you're probably going to be just fine with a cordless drill and a helicoil kit. Don't think you can do the same thing for head bolts, spark plugs bores, and bolt holes for flanged joints and you'll be fine.
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# ? Jul 21, 2012 01:37 |
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Motronic posted:The only "secret" to helicoiling is knowing how to properly cut threads. This means your drilling and tapping MUST BE STRAIGHT. Yeah, I don't care how good you think you are.....it's not gonna be straight by hand. If being off a bit is OK for the application, go for it. If not, make a guide so you know you're straight. Wait...you don't have the facilities to make a template? Yeah...not all helicoil jobs are easy....sorry. What, you mean that little bubble in the back of the drill isn't accurate? Thanks, yeah, this is just for the sway bar brackets, and the threads are in a front member that isn't going to fit on my drill press! First time I do something I just like to make sure that there isn't some incredibly obvious secret to it that turns four hours of tears into one hour of happy. The input is appreciated.
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# ? Jul 21, 2012 02:03 |
http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welders...-spool-gun.html Does anyone have any experience with Eastwood welders? They seem to have a good warranty and 30day moneyback guarantee so they can't be complete junk. Welding forums are terrible pits filled with miller/lincoln/"dont buy foreign" fanboys. vains fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jul 23, 2012 |
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# ? Jul 23, 2012 21:19 |
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Veins McGee posted:Does anyone have any experience with Eastwood? Just their paints, and I was pretty disappointed.
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# ? Jul 23, 2012 22:33 |
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Veins McGee posted:Does anyone have any experience with Eastwood welders? Sort of unrelated, but their fender rolling tool is pretty much the standard for getting the job done nicely. I'm going to buy one someday.
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# ? Jul 24, 2012 03:32 |
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Veins McGee posted:http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welders...-spool-gun.html http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=41965 It looks like they are contracting directly with the I assume Chinese manufacturer to build a cheap yet usable unit. I don't know anything about welding so above is a link full of propaganda from Eastwood.
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# ? Jul 24, 2012 14:29 |
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Eastwood constantly rebadges Chinese products and claims to made them better. They don't. There's a reason all the welding forums are full of "Go blue, red, our orange" Miller, Lincoln, and Hobart are really the only serious option. Anything else is a gamble. The reason Eastwood can put a warranty on "their" Chinese welder is that the welder will work, just like the ones from harbor freight. Charging twice as much means people are convinced that it'll be better than hf. My vote, check craigslist and get a Miller or Lincoln or Hobart. Edit: notice that they say they use a Tweeco-style gun... Not an actual Tweeco. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Jul 24, 2012 |
# ? Jul 24, 2012 17:04 |
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I picked up a refurb Hobart 187 for like $600 shipped, with a factory warranty. The lower amp models are even cheaper. I don't know why anyone bothers with the knockoff units at the $300+ price point. I can understand for the $100-$200 units.
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# ? Jul 24, 2012 21:11 |
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CatBus posted:I picked up a refurb Hobart 187 for like $600 shipped, with a factory warranty. The lower amp models are even cheaper. I don't know why anyone bothers with the knockoff units at the $300+ price point. I can understand for the $100-$200 units. The Eastwood welder had a spool gun.
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# ? Jul 24, 2012 23:42 |
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Haha, I didn't see the spool gun part. That seems like an OK price, but I would hesitate to spend that kind of money on a no-name welder. Really, swapping to the spool gun and a different gas is a hassle that isn't worth it for anything most of us do. I wanted a Miller 251 or whatever, but realized that the extra functionality and potential to maybe weld aluminum some time wasn't worth 4x the price. In short, a spool gun is nice in theory, but a dedicated TIG at a later date would be money better spent. Spend the cash on a solid welder first.
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# ? Jul 25, 2012 01:44 |
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CatBus posted:Haha, I didn't see the spool gun part. That seems like an OK price, but I would hesitate to spend that kind of money on a no-name welder. I got a Miller 210 with a spool gun and a c25 tank for $1000 off craigslist. I've seen similar setups for similar money. That'd be my bet.
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# ? Jul 25, 2012 04:47 |
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Does anyone have recommendations for a full-featured OBDII scanner that doesn't cost a shitton? Preferably something with its own carrying case (yes it's important, shut up). Never had to deal with OBDII before, I'm used to jumper wires and pedal tricks and then counting flashes and guessing what parts to throw at it to make the bad light go away. I wouldn't be opposed to a Tech 2 knockoff either, but I don't even know if they make those. Obviously a real deal Tech 2 would be the awesomest thing, but not for the $800+ used ones go for.
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 01:51 |
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A cheap android something with Torque and a Bluetooth OBD2 interface seems nice for something generic. What kind of car?
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 01:53 |
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Lowclock posted:A cheap android something with Torque and a Bluetooth OBD2 interface seems nice for something generic. What kind of car? Ehhhh, I'm new to this, thought all OBD2 was the same This is for the 2003 Escalade I picked up a few weeks ago. I do have an Android I could use, would have to find an OBD2 Bluetooth interface somewhere.
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 01:58 |
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Black88GTA posted:I wouldn't be opposed to a Tech 2 knockoff either, but I don't even know if they make those. Obviously a real deal Tech 2 would be the awesomest thing, but not for the $800+ used ones go for. There are a few Chinese clones which are tempting but from what I can gather everyone says its a total crap shoot if it works or not. I'd like something that can actually interact with GMLAN so I can reprogram things but I think the real deal Tech2 is the only way to fly.
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 02:02 |
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I picked up an INNOVA 3100 and it's all I'd ever need. Gives you the code and description on the screen and was under $100. What would these advanced ones do? Sensor voltages and data?
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 02:22 |
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Sockington posted:I picked up an INNOVA 3100 and it's all I'd ever need. Gives you the code and description on the screen and was under $100. I'm pretty sure they have more buttons, give more details on what's going on and show real time information with fancy graphs. Although I think you can still get cheap bluetooth ones that will do that on a computer, as well.
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 02:32 |
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Black88GTA posted:Does anyone have recommendations for a full-featured OBDII scanner that doesn't cost a shitton? Preferably something with its own carrying case (yes it's important, shut up). Never had to deal with OBDII before, I'm used to jumper wires and pedal tricks and then counting flashes and guessing what parts to throw at it to make the bad light go away. The best thing if you are looking for a true dealer-level scantool is Auto Enginuity. With the gm plugin, it'll run you $431. I just bought it, and it is amazingly good. KT performance is where I got mine, best price I could find. I got some swag from them too, gum, stickers, magnets, etc. Note: if you just need OBD II codes, get a Bluetooth OBD adapter from Amazon and Torque. I've got it on my tablet, and it works really nicely, but can't do ANY two way comms, and can't do component testing. Auto Enginuity does amazing things. If you want, I may be in/ near NYC soon, and could bring my gear. Drop me an email: username at gmail.
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 05:21 |
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I will post this question here, since it is related to the current discussion. Around 2006 I bought an "AutoTap" scan tool with software: http://www.diagnosticinnovations.com/autotap.shtml It has a serial interface with a computer (I think they changed to USB right after I bought mine), and I no longer have any functioning laptops with serial ports. I emailed tech support, and they said this "may" work: http://www.bb-elec.com/product_family.asp?familyid=397 Is there any difference between that serial-usb converter and something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Adap...ywords=232usb9m or this: http://www.amazon.com/Aluratek-USB-...=I1UW0J1YOWYUZ0 I don't feel like dumping another $70 for the one at B&B (which happens to also be the place that responded to my tech support email), if there are cheaper options. Is the B&B converter functionally different than the others? I feel like I looked into this a while back, and there was some potential problem with using USB (like the converters couldn't do everything the serial port could). I don't remember. Thoughts?
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 14:36 |
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CatBus posted:I will post this question here, since it is related to the current discussion. Around 2006 I bought an "AutoTap" scan tool with software: Get a usb to serial adapter with an ftdi chip. I use serial data a lot... Dozens of laptops, dozens of usb adapters that sucked, and $400 pcmcia serial adapters. The ftdi chips are the only ones that don't suck complete rear end.
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 14:56 |
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I've decided to go the Bluetooth / Torque route for now, since it seems like that may be the best sub-$100 way to do it at the moment. I figured my smartphone screen may be a bit small to cram all that information on at once (especially if I needed to glance at it while driving), so I grabbed this no-name Android tablet, which was one of very few I could find with built-in Bluetooth in the "cheap as poo poo" price range. It's suspiciously full-featured for $70, which makes me a bit nervous but I guess I'll see how it works when it arrives. I also grabbed this guy to go along with it. Sharky, thanks for the heads up on the Auto Enginuity, it looks amazing (and exactly what I needed) since there are a few systems I wish I could look at that the regular scantools won't touch. (ABS, ride control). I may look into picking one of those up down the road, once I can justify the price tag. Btw, email sent
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 14:59 |
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Black88GTA posted:I've decided to go the Bluetooth / Torque route for now, since it seems like that may be the best sub-$100 way to do it at the moment. I figured my smartphone screen may be a bit small to cram all that information on at once (especially if I needed to glance at it while driving), so I grabbed this no-name Android tablet, which was one of very few I could find with built-in Bluetooth in the "cheap as poo poo" price range. It's suspiciously full-featured for $70, which makes me a bit nervous but I guess I'll see how it works when it arrives. I also grabbed this guy to go along with it. Torque is really good, and the dashboard display is nice on cars with very few gauges. AutoEnginuity is a true replacement for a Tech2. I needed it do diagnose an SRS light, and do a crank sensor re-learn to stop the annoying P0300 and flashing check engine light on my '04 Silverado 2500HD. The SRS light needed a new crash sensor (intermittent), and the crank relearn worked perfectly.
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 15:34 |
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sharkytm posted:Torque is really good, and the dashboard display is nice on cars with very few gauges. The thing I like about Torque is that it can do a lot that regular scantools cannot. For instance, you can tell it to plot (any variable) against (any variable) and it will. You can also, if you're familiar with OBD2 protocols, program it to read extra items that aren't standard. For what it is, it's ridiculously good. I use it more than my Innova 3130.
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 15:39 |
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sharkytm posted:Get a usb to serial adapter with an ftdi chip. I use serial data a lot... Dozens of laptops, dozens of usb adapters that sucked, and $400 pcmcia serial adapters. The ftdi chips are the only ones that don't suck complete rear end. this. FTDI rocks, pl2303 based adapters are ok in a pinch but nowhere near as good. I've worked with FTDI devices both as a user and an embedded systems engineer doing hardware/software/firmware/drivers and they are top notch. I can't think of a single thing I disliked about them.
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 15:47 |
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CornHolio posted:The thing I like about Torque is that it can do a lot that regular scantools cannot. For instance, you can tell it to plot (any variable) against (any variable) and it will. You can also, if you're familiar with OBD2 protocols, program it to read extra items that aren't standard. Yes, the plotting is a underused feature. The only downside is no two-way comms. AE does oxygen sensor plotting natively, and its really really nice. It also handles much faster update speed on supported vehicles. The bluetooth adapters can usually handle 4Hz total, so four sensors once a second, two twice a second, or eight every 2 seconds. Depending on the adapter, you might be able to get one that'll do 8Hz. Buy from Amazon, their return policy doesn't suck. kastein posted:this. FTDI rocks, pl2303 based adapters are ok in a pinch but nowhere near as good. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Jul 27, 2012 |
# ? Jul 27, 2012 15:49 |
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Sockington posted:I picked up an INNOVA 3100 and it's all I'd ever need. Gives you the code and description on the screen and was under $100. BCM readings and controls (vendor specific and usually very expensive), ABS readings (same as the last), freeze frame data (Mode $06), IM readiness status (Mode $03), live data and the ability to log and graph it over time....... pretty much everything that makes OBDII useful as a diagnostic tool, and why I don't even both with readers anymore and just use a laptop (I have one of those cheap little netbooks just for the purpose) because it's enough data that you really do want a keyboard and mouse and the ability to do useful things with it. If you don't know what one or more of these things are and are serious about wrenching on 1996+ vehicles it would be a very good idea to get familiar. OBDII is a lot more then DTCs, clearing "Check Engine" lights (MILs), and making cheap extra gauges. In fact, it probably warrants it own thread on AI.
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 16:05 |
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sharkytm posted:Torque is really good, and the dashboard display is nice on cars with very few gauges. Wait, youve got an affordable scan tool that resets SRS system lights? They were the bain of my trim shop's operations. Remove a seat and turn the key on (required in some cars to get the column trim off, turning the wheel without the steering lock) and bam you got an SRS light. I kept telling the monkeys to leave the drat seats in till i had the columns stripped off, but trim shop guys are retarded and dont listen, so poor elecrical installer me had to gently caress off and die. The repair shop im at now uses a CenTech 1100 or something. Its pretty good, can provide live data feedback if you need it and manufacturer specific codes. I dont think it can get into the SRS system however. We've got a Snap on Modus with 1" of dust on it rotting away in the break room. I just ordered some Mac Redline (their cheapies but warrantied) double ended, swivel head, offset, extra long ratchet wrenches. I've been using a co-worker's set made by Platinum for everything. Forget all the Belt tool kits youve ever seen, these things have the reach and are slim enough to do it all. Raw_Beef fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Jul 27, 2012 |
# ? Jul 27, 2012 16:25 |
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Raw_Beef posted:Wait, youve got an affordable scan tool that resets SRS system lights? Define affordable. The unit with the gm plugin was $430. Each additional manufacturer adds 100-300 dollars. And yes, it'll reset srs lights where applicable. On my truck, the sensor is out, so it can't turn off the light.
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 16:57 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 22:48 |
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Raw_Beef posted:Wait, youve got an affordable scan tool that resets SRS system lights? have you looked up the schematics for the steering lock? If it's electronic there's a good chance you can simply hotwire the appropriate solenoid and turn the wheel as much as you want. Unless unplugging that solenoid from the harness would set off the SRS light too... another possibility if you have to actually turn the key to disengage a mechanical steering lock is to unplug whatever fuse supplies power to the ignition switch, but I'm not sure that's possible. Something to look into at least.
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# ? Jul 27, 2012 17:15 |