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Levitate posted:Ok, I posted earlier about an idling/stalling problem I had. Turns out the throttle body needed to be cleaned out, so that was done Does your car have a vacuum-boosted clutch master cylinder? Edit: and it's a bit hard to believe that your throttle body could be dirty enough to cause this, unless you're on the original air filter 
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Aug 2, 2012 03:09
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I don't really know, it's a stock 2005 Mazda 3i There's actually a tsb for the throttle body buildup issue causing the initial problems. Edit: and from what I can figure out, this is normal behavior for some kinds of cars? Just don't remember mine doing it before, or if the symptoms really match the "normal behavior" Levitate fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Aug 2, 2012 |
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Aug 2, 2012 03:26
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DrPain posted:Ask your mechanic about cash discounts. Especially if you're seeing the same one every 3 months. This. My mechanic knocks a huge chunk off of his labor if I pay cash, and usually takes a good chunk off his parts markup too. He normally charges $85/hr, going by book labor (85 is at the medium to higher end of an indie shop here, but well within normal for a good mechanic). He hits me for $60/hr, knocks a bit off of the book estimate, and hits me with a very, very tiny markup on parts if I pay cash (I suspect he's just charging me whatever interest he's paying his parts suppliers on his line of credit - he has no problem showing me his actual cost). Admittedly, I've known him 13 years, and he's offered me 0% interest payments on "cost of parts plus discounted labor" plenty of times as long as I can pay within 1-2 months, but I've seen him offer heavy cash discounts on labor to others (generally either unemployed or low income folks - really good/honest/nice guy). The only time I've taken him up on payments I made drat sure he was paid in full within 2 weeks, that's absolutely one bridge/working relationship that I don't want to lose. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Aug 2, 2012 |
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Aug 2, 2012 03:33
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Levitate posted:Ok, I posted earlier about an idling/stalling problem I had. Turns out the throttle body needed to be cleaned out, so that was done It is playing it safe and high idling until you're fully stopped. You should really keep the clutch out until you're drat near stalled anyway while stopping. Uses less(none) fuel for one, and fast "get my rear end out of here" just stab the gas when that minivan behind you fails to see you stopping...
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Aug 2, 2012 04:04
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I backed into my neighbor's covered Porsche with my Honda Accord (indoor parking garage). I tore the cover and agreed to replace it. He told me he paid $550 for it at the dealership when he bought it, but I don't intend to pay that much. He said any cover is fine as long as it's made of a stretchy material. I don't know poo poo about car covers, and I can't even seem to figure out whether the covers I'm looking at online are made of stretch material or not. Any mediocre cover is fine, it's parked indoors 364 days a year. I'm looking to spend $100-$200. Somebody drop some knowledge on this poor idiot. details: 2011 Porsche Panamera
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Aug 2, 2012 04:26
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particle409 posted:2011 Porsche Panamera Panamera? Cover it with aircraft remover I say! E:\/welp. Joke's not as funny now. 
Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Aug 2, 2012 |
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Aug 2, 2012 06:47
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Fucknag posted:Panamera? Cover it with aircraft remover I say! That's funny, because I actually paid $1300 to have 2 different panels painted.
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Aug 2, 2012 06:50
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This is probably a pretty common question: Just bought a new mustang. Love it. I'm going to be heading out on a very long road trip tonight, and would love to take my new ride but the manual says to avoid consistent RPMs for the first 1000 miles. How big of a deal is this? I still have my old beater but obviously I'd rather not use it.
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Aug 2, 2012 18:27
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How many miles are on it? Just vary your speed a bit. Every 20 minutes or so go up or down 5-10 mph. Drop down a gear and do some mid-throttle pulls. It really isn't a big deal. Just don't set the cruise and forget about it.
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Aug 2, 2012 18:34
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It's at about 130 now.
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Aug 2, 2012 18:58
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Anyone know how to remove drivers side headlight bezel on a 2005 Mitsubishi Lancer? I've gone all the way around the thing and can't find what might be obstructing removal. Google/Youtube have been no help at all.
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Aug 2, 2012 22:09
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I recently purchased a '97 Nissan Maxima with 150k. Got it checked out and all is good expect a it needs a new CV Shaft. The only second thing I noticed is the cruise control either doesn't come on or the button doesn't stick. The cruise control light in the gauge doesn't come on either. Any ideas how to fix this or how much it would cost?
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Aug 3, 2012 00:15
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Had a brainstorm of terrible proportions in traffic today. It happened somewhere between letting the "I'm so macho my aluminum rims are anodized pink!" guy in a lowered Civic out in front of me, and nearly being run over by a Hummer about a minute later... Could some truly deviant individual use a set of portal type axles in the opposite way they're supposed to be applied? As in "My entire driveline is only 50 thou off the pavement, you can't get any lower man!" type poo poo?
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Aug 3, 2012 00:23
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Sponge! posted:Had a brainstorm of terrible proportions in traffic today. It happened somewhere between letting the "I'm so macho my aluminum rims are anodized pink!" guy in a lowered Civic out in front of me, and nearly being run over by a Hummer about a minute later... But then how would they get the sicknasty demon camber?
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Aug 3, 2012 00:53
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Sponge! posted:Had a brainstorm of terrible proportions in traffic today. It happened somewhere between letting the "I'm so macho my aluminum rims are anodized pink!" guy in a lowered Civic out in front of me, and nearly being run over by a Hummer about a minute later... A whole new way to shave your pumpkins...
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Aug 3, 2012 01:28
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Anybody have any experience with AeroForce Interceptor CAN gauges?
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Aug 3, 2012 02:13
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I'm looking to buy a new vehicle soon-ish. It's gonna be my first new vehicle purchase. I've done a ton of research in the past month or so, spending several hours a day crunching numbers and getting a feel for how to go about haggling a price. A number of sources, including the "Rizzo" method mentioned in the Resource & Reference thread, suggest preparing an offer sheet for the vehicle you want and the price you're wanting to pay. However, I'm not entirely clear on when the appropriate approach is for this method. It is suggested to write your desired model, then itemize the features you want. But at that point aren't you essentially doing a custom factory order? And in doing so, doesn't that indicate your specific "want" for the vehicle and leave you less room to negotiate? I'm looking to get a black Challenger R/T Plus, manual transmission, with red fender stripes, the 20" wheel package, and the Super Track Pack option. To my knowledge, none of my local dealers have this configuration. They hardly have any manual Challengers, period. If I ask a dealer to find this configuration, isn't that basically going against the age old advice of not indicating to the dealer your desire for the car? And in which order would I be doing this... ask the dealer to find the configured car then submit the offer sheet, or submit the offer sheet first? Lastly, is there a good way to find dealer cost vs. invoice price? I understand there's a difference between the two. There are a few sites out there offering to give you actual dealer cost reports for something like 30 bucks, but I dunno if its worth pursuing or is even an actual thing. Sorry if this has been posted before. Fell free to point my stupid rear end to a previous post if this is the case. It's a long thread and I'm trying to catch up.
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Aug 3, 2012 02:45
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Tab8715 posted:I recently purchased a '97 Nissan Maxima with 150k. Got it checked out and all is good expect a it needs a new CV Shaft. The only second thing I noticed is the cruise control either doesn't come on or the button doesn't stick. The cruise control light in the gauge doesn't come on either. Does the car have an aftermarket stereo? If so they may have hosed up a ground for the cruise control while installing it. If it's that, it is probably an easy fix that will be hard to find, if that makes sense.
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Aug 3, 2012 03:43
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Mung Dynasty posted:I'm looking to buy a new vehicle soon-ish. It's gonna be my first new vehicle purchase. I've done a ton of research in the past month or so, spending several hours a day crunching numbers and getting a feel for how to go about haggling a price. A number of sources, including the "Rizzo" method mentioned in the Resource & Reference thread, suggest preparing an offer sheet for the vehicle you want and the price you're wanting to pay. That's age old advice because it's old and barely applicable anymore. Most people buying a new car now know, or think they know, exactly what they want before they go through a showroom door. The dealer wants to sell you a car that he already has on his lot, for several of a whole range of reasons that will vary from situation to situation. Generally speaking, you have much less room for negotiation if you are going for a specific set of options that isn't available on a local lot. If it is that important to you to have that specific set of options, you will pretty much just have to suck this up. Trying to "beat" these circumstances is not likely to work. You will save more money by not falling for poo poo like magical electric rust protection boxes and theft recovery schemes.
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Aug 3, 2012 03:55
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I have a 95 Mk3 VW Polo, and since taking the battery out to charge it a few weeks ago, the central locking has started locking by itself. At first it was once every few days, now it's within about 30 seconds of unlocking it, every single time. What's worse is that none of the locks on the doors work, so I have to get in through the boot or leave a window open to pull up the little stalk things. Anyone have any ideas what's causing this? The central locking shares a fuse with some other electrics otherwise I'd just disconnect it.
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Aug 3, 2012 03:57
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Tab8715 posted:I recently purchased a '97 Nissan Maxima with 150k. Got it checked out and all is good expect a it needs a new CV Shaft. The only second thing I noticed is the cruise control either doesn't come on or the button doesn't stick. The cruise control light in the gauge doesn't come on either. There's a separate cruise control power switch on the dash (left side), you have to turn it on every time you drive the car if you want to use the cruise. It should light up green once it's on, though the switch returns to the middle. You then set the speed with the buttons on the steering wheel. If you've done that, and it lights up.. Is it manual or auto? If it's manual, the switch on the clutch pedal may be bad. If it's auto or manual, the brake light switch could be bad. The clockspring could also be bad - does the horn work? is the airbag light lit up? If the switch doesn't light up, check the fuses, followed by the cruise control box 1st Edition ADandD posted:Does the car have an aftermarket stereo? If so they may have hosed up a ground for the cruise control while installing it. If it's that, it is probably an easy fix that will be hard to find, if that makes sense. Nissan didn't provide a factory ground for stereos in the 90s, the head unit grounded through the screws. Gotta save that 10 cents. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Aug 3, 2012 |
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Aug 3, 2012 04:08
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Mung Dynasty posted:Challenger R/T Plus The Challenger is pretty much one of the best looking cars on the road right now, I think. That said, there's always http://bit.ly/OKL05h to consider Chrysler is doing really well in sales right now, which is good for them, but I wonder what will happen to these cars in a few years. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Aug 3, 2012 |
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Aug 3, 2012 04:13
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Also, don't pay for the VIN etching on the windows.
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Aug 3, 2012 04:49
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I lowered my 95 nissan pickup the other day with a torsion bar crank(left one inch of thread on both sides) and a 4 inch block in the rear. went in for an oil change today, and when I was driving away afterwards, I notice a slight squeaking and a noise similar to something rubbing when I was decelerating in gear. Since I only hear these noise when i am engine braking, I'm wondering if these noises are signs of poor pinion angle at the carrier bearing? The reason I am unsure is because they seemed to be coming for only the passenger side of the vehicle. anyone have thoughts or opinions on this?
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Aug 3, 2012 05:07
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Just got back from having the 7500mi service done at the dealership. They insist that although Kia's service interval for oil is 7500mi I should give them money for an oil change every 3750mi because "7500 is way too long." I told them that was nonsense. I am 99.8% certain that I am correct. Can someone who knows more than I do supply the other .2%? The car is a base model '12 Kia Soul, although I doubt that matters.
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Aug 3, 2012 16:02
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Loucks posted:Just got back from having the 7500mi service done at the dealership. They insist that although Kia's service interval for oil is 7500mi I should give them money for an oil change every 3750mi because "7500 is way too long." I told them that was nonsense. I am 99.8% certain that I am correct. Can someone who knows more than I do supply the other .2%? The car is a base model '12 Kia Soul, although I doubt that matters. Synthetic oil will last 7500mi at least, but I wouldn't ever trust the same oil filter to do it's job for that long, so I can see what they're trying to say. I've never driven anything but old beaters and I check all my boots, belts, hoses, fluids, etc, with each regular oil change, but on a new car that should be less of a concern. Does your car have an oil life gauge? Those are pretty accurate. I let my wife's chevy go till her oil life gauge reads 49% then get it in for service. Usually about every 4000-ish miles. Not a ton of experience with Kia though, so take that as you will. If the majority of your miles come on the freeway that will also give you better oil life versus stop and go city traffic.
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Aug 3, 2012 16:16
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Weird, I was under the impression that modern cars were expected to go at least 7.5k between changes. At least 90% of my driving is highway at 50-75, if that makes a difference. The other issue is that the powertrain is under warranty for 200k so long as I follow the 7.5k change interval and do all other Kia-required maintenance.
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Aug 3, 2012 16:54
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It's not modern cars, it's modern synthetic oil that's improved, and you're correct, 7.5k is the new standard interval. Some oils and carmakers are recommending 12k to 15k.
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Aug 3, 2012 17:00
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Loucks posted:Just got back from having the 7500mi service done at the dealership. They insist that although Kia's service interval for oil is 7500mi I should give them money for an oil change every 3750mi because "7500 is way too long." I told them that was nonsense. I am 99.8% certain that I am correct. Can someone who knows more than I do supply the other .2%? The car is a base model '12 Kia Soul, although I doubt that matters. Send a sample of oil to Blackstone Labs. They'll analyze how it's breaking down and determine what (if any) engine wear is taking place that you should be aware of. From that (they'll also make a recommendation) you can decide if you need to change more often. It's $25.
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Aug 3, 2012 17:13
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Godholio posted:Send a sample of oil to Blackstone Labs. They'll analyze how it's breaking down and determine what (if any) engine wear is taking place that you should be aware of. From that (they'll also make a recommendation) you can decide if you need to change more often. It's $25. I will do this. Thanks.
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Aug 3, 2012 17:18
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I've just signed rental on a place with a double garage. This means I can now make a move on one of the few goals I have in life; learn how to fix cars! I've messed around for years on a basic, axle stand-work level. Fluid changes, strut swaps, brake work, exhaust and I feel confident about taking on a big, long term project to learn on. I've been considering getting an old Miata (1990ish) to tool around on. It's not so old that the skills learnt will be irrelevant, but has enough age for everything to not be computerised. This is my layman assumption. Is this a good "beginners" car for learning how to swap out most major parts? I'm a little timid to start ripping engines apart, but I feel like I can handle most other aspects of a auto-mobile with a Haynes book in my grip. midge fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Aug 3, 2012 |
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Aug 3, 2012 17:26
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I've got a 2010 Mazda 3 and I'm hearing a rhythmic sort of humming sound from the area of the front left wheel while the car is in motion. It's more obvious at lower speeds but I can tell it's happening at high speeds as well. So far I've gathered that this might be a wheel bearing, but it started happening right after I had my tires rotated so I'm wondering if it's possible that the lugs are too tight or anything like that. Any help would be appreciated  I should also mention that the brakes seem to be okay and the car does not pull in any direction emdash fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Aug 3, 2012 |
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Aug 3, 2012 21:29
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You can't make noise from lugs being too tight. It's either a brake issue or a wheelbearing issue. The wheelbearing on my '07 Mazdaspeed3 that failed sounded like loud tires and just kept getting louder and louder.
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Aug 3, 2012 22:22
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Splizwarf posted:It's not modern cars, it's modern synthetic oil that's improved, and you're correct, 7.5k is the new standard interval. Some oils and carmakers are recommending 12k to 15k. I work in the quick lube business so I see a lot of oil related poo poo. It appears that ALL OIL BURNS. Going 15k on any oil change and you will probably have a quart of oil left when the time comes to change it. In short, if you're going super long on your oil changes, make sure to top it off. Now, a question: 01 Mustang GT I was rushed into changing the front brake pads on this thing, and not changing the rotors (they needed it). So its got new pads, lovely rear end rusty rotors. Couple weeks go by, and they want the rotors replaced so I replace them, keeping the slightly new pads. Immediately after finishing the job, during the test-drive, the brakes feel like they are always on. The car won't even inch forward when in drive and creaks when going <5mph. Park it, go to bed. This morning everything is fine. What gives?
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Aug 3, 2012 22:46
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Omglosser posted:I work in the quick lube business so I see a lot of oil related poo poo. It appears that ALL OIL BURNS. Going 15k on any oil change and you will probably have a quart of oil left when the time comes to change it. In short, if you're going super long on your oil changes, make sure to top it off. I follow the oil life monitor in my G8, usually go 11-12.5k between changes, and have never been low on oil.
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Aug 4, 2012 04:00
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rcman50166 posted:2003 Saturn L200 SkunkDuster posted:My best guess is that the PAWL is intermittently sticking and not engaging the toothed wheel on the adjusting screw. Could also be that the part that engages the teeth is rounded over, or the teeth on the adjustment wheel are rounded over. Wiggle the pawl by hand to make sure it has free range of motion and isn't snagging on anything, then engage it and try to spin the adjustment wheel. The wheel should only turn in one direction (expansion). rcman50166 posted:The last mechanic I went to verified that the teeth weren't rounded, and that it wasn't installed backward. He tried to induce the pawl to slip but couldn't. If I can find a set of jack stands I'll take a photo and post it here. I'll message you when I post. Okay, today I was on my way to school to work on FSAE and the rear passenger side brake fell apart again. I was on it for less time and was able to figure out it is the pawl creating the issue. I opened it up and the pawl was dangling and the retention spring was laying at the bottom. I called my mechanic and he agrees with me, we are going to replace the adjuster assembly. Something is up with the one that is in there. I put it back together after adjusting it up and it's fine for now. Now, another question. How do you tell if lack of power in the brakes is the brake booster or the master cylinder? Are there any characteristic differences? I don't want to buy one part and find out I need the other. Both are about $100 each. I'm very sure this is a separate problem from the one above.
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Aug 4, 2012 04:57
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) The pedal is literally past bottomed and the brakes barely work. I rarely drive the car but when I do I hate it. So I finally tell my dad to stop being an idiot and take the car in and that is not normal or safe. We go to a small Mobil repair shop where my dad knows the mechanic. A few hours later he calls me and says it's done for $300 labor & parts. When I get there I ask him what is wrong. He said the driver side rear auto-adjuster was broken and it needed to be replaced as well as the drums needed to be re-cut. After that and an adjustment the pedal is nice and hard. However, like the Meineke incident, the pedal slowly starts falling over a two week period. I take it back and ask what's up. I sit there as he puts the car on the lift takes the tires and drums off and calls me over. He explains what the adjusters are supposed to and that they are clearly not working properly. He said they are in working order and cannot figure out what is going on. Last week the brake internals just fell apart. The mechanic fixed it for free and re-adjusted the brakes. I don't want to continue this cycle forever.
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rcman50166 posted:Now, another question. How do you tell if lack of power in the brakes is the brake booster or the master cylinder? Are there any characteristic differences? I don't want to buy one part and find out I need the other. Both are about $100 each. I'm very sure this is a separate problem from the one above. Master cylinder doesn't produce power, it receives the assist from the booster. The only way it could produce a lack of power feel would be negating the booster if it was seizing up, which I assure would be very noticable. 99% it's your booster, although check the vacuum hose, it could be a simple fix.
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Aug 4, 2012 05:35
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Fucknag posted:Master cylinder doesn't produce power, it receives the assist from the booster. The only way it could produce a lack of power feel would be negating the booster if it was seizing up, which I assure would be very noticable. 99% it's your booster, although check the vacuum hose, it could be a simple fix. Test the booster. Run engine at idle to build up decent vacuum. Shut off engine. Depress pedal to the floor in one smooth motion. Release. Depress again, it should feel much stiffer once you get about halfway down, and be really hard to actually go as far as the first. Then pump it 2 or 3 times and it should be rock hard from the first push. If its not like this, then your booster has issues... (As in, if the pedal feel is always rock hard, or if it always sinks to the floor.)
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Aug 4, 2012 05:52
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Sponge! posted:Test the booster. Run engine at idle to build up decent vacuum. Shut off engine. Depress pedal to the floor in one smooth motion. Release. Depress again, it should feel much stiffer once you get about halfway down, and be really hard to actually go as far as the first. Did this. It gets hard the second I take the key out. It seriously pushes back on my foot before I even lift it off, not just gets hard on the second push.  Good? Bad? HOLY poo poo WHAT'S WRONG WITH YOUR BRAKES?!?
rcman50166 fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Aug 4, 2012 |
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Aug 4, 2012 07:16
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rcman50166 posted:Did this. It gets hard the second I take the key out. It seriously pushes back on my foot before I even lift it off, not just gets hard on the second push. You have either a blown booster diaphragm (rebuild kit is cheaper than a whole new booster, but its a fiddly job, how much is your time worth?) or your check valve is not working on the vacuum line, or your vacuum line sucks. 
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Aug 4, 2012 07:37
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