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unpurposed posted:Post a picture so that we may laugh at the folly of Finecast. Splitter.jpg  It opened more than that when it first happened, but as I need to use that piece on the model I'm reluctant to risk breaking it with too much pressure. Also note the superior fine details and crisp edging which Finecast gives you, part of the superiority over pewter casting.
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Aug 3, 2012 18:04
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Splitter.jpg Didn't you just contact GW and get a new one?
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Aug 3, 2012 20:47
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This is the new one ! Well, a month old, but it's from the replacement kit. Replacing it again is going to be an arseache as I've already cleaned all the other components and begun filling the bubbles on everything, and partially assembled the trunnions.
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Aug 3, 2012 21:03
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:This is the new one ! Well, a month old, but it's from the replacement kit. Replacing it again is going to be an arseache as I've already cleaned all the other components and begun filling the bubbles on everything, and partially assembled the trunnions. why don't you buy some liquid green stuff - only £2.30 for a pot
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Aug 3, 2012 21:39
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WINNERSH TRIANGLE posted:why don't you buy some liquid green stuff - only £2.30 for a pot
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Aug 3, 2012 21:50
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WINNERSH TRIANGLE posted:why don't you buy some liquid green stuff - only £2.30 for a pot Why don't you buy some punctuation?
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Aug 3, 2012 21:52
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Why don't you buy some punctuation?  I'd like a 12-pack, for random stupid people on the internet.And Liquid Green Stuff is awesome when you don't have to deal with GW's lovely minis. VVV: Can't be arsed. Besides, I'm mainly using it for filling gaps in boardgame minis and it's enough for me. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Aug 3, 2012 |
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Aug 3, 2012 23:22
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Liquid green stuff just appears to be watered down squadron green/white putty, which I've been using for years. (You can get a giant tube of squadron putty for $5)
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Aug 3, 2012 23:26
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Manifest posted:Liquid green stuff just appears to be watered down squadron green/white putty, which I've been using for years. Speaking of which, I've been wanting to ask if anyone has tried to make their own liquid green stuff?
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Aug 3, 2012 23:33
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Splitter.jpg I honestly can't even tell what I'm looking at, but if it's radially symmetrical, maybe you can use that mouthguard molding material the kids love in here as a mold with regular greenstuff. Mold an intact side, and then smush the poo poo side into it. I sympathize, RJS. I never had anything that bad, but I bought FW's huron blackheart, and he showed up with a crater in his foot. I showed them a picture and said 'uh guys?' and they gave me a new one. The new one had the same crater in the same spot on the same foot. I sent them another photo--of the two together, and another note to the effect of 'gee whiz--maybe look at that mold or something?' and heard nothing from them ever again. Later, as punishment, I bought a Contemptor from them. The subtext of that order should have been abundantly clear. Honestly, I was probably too harsh. I have maturity problems.
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Aug 3, 2012 23:35
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krushgroove posted:Speaking of which, I've been wanting to ask if anyone has tried to make their own liquid green stuff? Yeah, I do it all the time. Squadron putty on a tray, mix with water. Bam. Squadrom comes in varying levels of grain too, get the smoothest one and it's actually better than the somewhat coarse liquid greenstuff.
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Aug 3, 2012 23:36
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I will have to try that soon!
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Aug 3, 2012 23:51
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:This is the new one ! Well, a month old, but it's from the replacement kit. Replacing it again is going to be an arseache as I've already cleaned all the other components and begun filling the bubbles on everything, and partially assembled the trunnions. You don't have to return the item to have it replaced, correct? So why not show them what happened and demand a new one?
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Aug 4, 2012 00:46
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Captain Invictus posted:You don't have to return the item to have it replaced, correct? So why not show them what happened and demand a new one? To be honest, I'm torn on whether to get it replaced or not. On the one hand I do think it's unacceptably poo poo, but on the other it's not bad enough to be unusable. Anyway, Here's some stuff that I failed to finish in time for last month's Oath thread. First off, a WoC sorcerer. Unfortunately the picture has washed out the colours of his face and horns, I used the airbrush to get some nice subtle transitions on them. The picture also made his eyes look poo poo (there's a glaze of yellow for a glowing with power look). I need to learn to take better photos. Trust me though, it looks okay in person. Overall I'm quite pleased with how he came out after initially not having a clue how I was going to do his skin.  And this one started off as a test model for Dark Angels colours and oil washing, and as it is I think he's probably the single best model I've ever painted. The armour and cloak were both shaded with oil paint (Lamp Black and Vandyke Brown respectively) after the rest of the model had been painted to completion. The cloak could have done with with some more time spent softening the oil in but that's the learning process for you. The armour looks a bit blue where I screwed up and put too much matte varnish on with the airbrush, another, harsher lesson learnt. Thanks for the advice on trying to fix that by the way guys, reapplying glaze then matte seemed to help a bit. 
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Aug 4, 2012 01:27
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Airbrush goons, my Paasche D500 is not turning on. Any ideas about what could have gone wrong? The engine is not spinning up at all.
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Aug 4, 2012 02:16
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!amicable posted:Airbrush goons, my Paasche D500 is not turning on. Any ideas about what could have gone wrong? The engine is not spinning up at all. Preface: incoming pedantry Do you mean the airbrush motor? Motors are different from engines.  Actual helpful words: If it's not turning on, check the power that's going into it. I hate to state the obvious, but check the plug, the outlet, try a different outlet, etc. before doing anything drastic. If it's still not working, then you may want to have someone take a look at it, unless you are keen with motor repair. In any case, I'm guessing it's an issue with power supply. Could be any number of things relating to that--without seeing it first-hand, I'm not sure a diagnosis is possible.
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Aug 4, 2012 04:17
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Sole.Sushi posted:Preface: incoming pedantry I do mean the motor, sure. It's not the power source, though I did check several outlets with and without surge protectors. I can't imagine I blew anything because it was running from a surge protector and we don't really get storms or anything like that around here. It's also maybe four months old, and I don't use it for more than 45 minutes at a time, usually turning it on and off between steps.
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Aug 4, 2012 04:26
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!amicable posted:I do mean the motor, sure. It's not the power source, though I did check several outlets with and without surge protectors. I can't imagine I blew anything because it was running from a surge protector and we don't really get storms or anything like that around here. Sounds like something has gone horribly wrong, but unless it was something horribly cheap it should be under warranty, so maybe look into that avenue. Disclosure: I do not nor have I ever used Airbrushes, but I've used lots of compressors and pneumatic tools and the above should still apply. Sounds like something has gone with the units power supply, or the motor itself.
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Aug 4, 2012 04:33
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Refind Chaos posted:Sounds like something has gone horribly wrong, but unless it was something horribly cheap it should be under warranty, so maybe look into that avenue. Pretty much this: it should have a 1 year "from-purchase" warranty, so I'd look into taking advantage of that. If it's bad after 4 months, it's quite likely defective. Also, I do apologize if I came off as a bit of a prick. I do find, more often than not, it's the simple fix that's often the correct one.
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Aug 4, 2012 04:47
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Sole.Sushi posted:Pretty much this: it should have a 1 year "from-purchase" warranty, so I'd look into taking advantage of that. If it's bad after 4 months, it's quite likely defective. No need to apologize, I just didn't know the jargon. It's all good. I am pretty sure I tossed the receipt though, because I'm an idiot. I'll call em up and see what I can do about it. I was thinking I would be ok shelling out some more real life dollars to get a compressor that's "silent" with a tank attached. The D500 is pretty bare bones.
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Aug 4, 2012 04:54
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!amicable posted:No need to apologize, I just didn't know the jargon. It's all good. If you bought it in store, they might be willing to do an exchange without the receipt. Otherwise, yeah, a sound investment in a soundless tank/compressor is also not a bad way to go.
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Aug 4, 2012 04:57
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Did you mess with your regulator too much? If you have your regulator set too low, it might just be telling the motor, "Sup mang, I got plenty of pressure, don't bother turning on."
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Aug 4, 2012 05:50
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There's also the "get a 20lb tank of CO2 from a welding shop or beverage gas supplier, get a low-pressure regulator from a homebrew shop, get a 3/8" male-male pipe fitting and some teflon tape from the air tools section of home depot, and whack it all together" solution, which avoids the issue of fallible moving parts entirely. Costs about the same (total) as a good (not amazing) compressor with tank, doesn't have any of the temperature-based issues of a motor-driven compressor, doesn't need a moisture trap, is completely silent, and will probably cost you less to refill than a motor-driven one costs in electricity over the same period of time. Obviously, this requires some basic familiarity with a wrench and mandates good ventilation in your workspace, but you should have both of those anyhow.
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Aug 4, 2012 06:20
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More work with tanks. Left to right: GW Leman Russ, Trumpeter 1/35 Swedish STRV-103B "S-Tank", Bandai made 1/35 M61A5 "Semovente" MBT  Haven't got my Challenger I's yet, so I am just putting in a Leman Russ as a size comparison. The S-Tank is about the right size for a Valdor Tank Hunter, and the M61A5 will be my futuristic style Baneblade. Going to make a few different turret types for the variant styles on offer. The M61A5 is made by Bandai by those interested. Cheaper to buy this than the Baneblade, and looks a lot more futuristic, which will go well with my army. Anyone reckon it's worth taking sponsons on the Baneblade and variants? Just wondering if I should bother putting some together and magnetise them, or forget about it and just benefit from the extra armour instead?
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Aug 4, 2012 19:20
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Painting faces is loving awful. I've been reading some guides online but outside of poo poo loads of practice, has anyone got any major tips for it?
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Aug 4, 2012 19:52
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Paint eyes first. Use a black micron pen for pupils, or paint the eye black and put off-white dots on the sides. Never use just plain white, looks unnatural, and if you're painting eyes you might as well not half-rear end it. Paint, wash, highlight. I personally don't even do eyes. Huge pains in the rear end.
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Aug 4, 2012 20:01
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I've accidentally picked up a spray can of Enamel without realizing. Can I still undercoat my stuff with it?
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Aug 4, 2012 20:52
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Muppetjedi posted:I've accidentally picked up a spray can of Enamel without realizing. Can I still undercoat my stuff with it? Don't, it's hard to strip and won't hold acrylic paint very well, and is probably more likely to obscure detail.
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Aug 4, 2012 22:06
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Babe Magnet posted:Paint eyes first. Use a black micron pen for pupils, or paint the eye black and put off-white dots on the sides. Never use just plain white, looks unnatural, and if you're painting eyes you might as well not half-rear end it.  I think I'll do the eyes next, then the next highlights and then details. e: No face detail there, will provide one with face details if I can.
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Aug 4, 2012 22:50
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Anyone have a good recipe for a dark yellow? Im thinking of painting some Lamenters. One guide I saw was base white, and use the lamentors glaze. Im thinking of basing a lighter brown, then going over in a yellow.
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Aug 5, 2012 00:14
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Flipswitch posted:*Winter lady*
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Aug 5, 2012 00:15
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Pierzak posted:What's that mini? I want to paint it. Rasputina from the game Malifaux. I like her alternate sculpt a little better, but it might just be the goggles.
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Aug 5, 2012 00:22
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Owlbear:  
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Aug 5, 2012 00:33
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Pierzak posted:What's that mini? I want to paint it.
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Aug 5, 2012 00:37
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My almost complete Blood Angels Librarian. Still have to go back over it for the highlights and fix my shaky caffiene hand messups. 
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Aug 5, 2012 00:43
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Pictures for the picture god:    
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Aug 5, 2012 00:54
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I speed painted these as a batch over the past two nights as a bit of a fun change, quite happy by how they came out as a unit. They are a cool size as well just being a but smaller than usual GW 28mm scale and true scale not heroic scale.      
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Aug 5, 2012 01:15
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The page is pretty fukken dope. Good job duders.
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Aug 5, 2012 01:17
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Hi, I'm here to ruin this page with an amateur painted Baneblade, crossposted from the 40k thread.  
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Aug 5, 2012 03:30
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Bachtere posted:Owlbear: That owlbear is tripping out hard. I'm just starting on some DnD minis now and your style is pretty inspirational for that.
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Aug 5, 2012 03:55
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