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Nitr0
Aug 17, 2005

IT'S FREE REAL ESTATE

Lowclock posted:

Thanks for the picture of your gross hands. What the gently caress.

do you have a finger phobia? must be hard to wake up in the morning

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Crustashio
Jul 27, 2000

ruh roh
Well, it made it to 115k.





This makes me the 3rd BMW this year to break the plastic radiator neck during a slalom/track day. Nothing makes you feel better then spewing coolant and holding up the proceedings for 45 minutes while it gets cleaned up.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
This is what 900 dollars looks like.


The good:
Suspension
engine
diff
body

The bad:
flood car/rust/salvage title
alternator
hids
previous owner syndrome


I think two e36s means the time is right to have my own thread for this craziness.

MrChips
Jun 10, 2005

FLIGHT SAFETY TIP: Fatties out first

revmoo posted:

This is what 900 dollars looks like.


The good:
Suspension
engine
diff
body

The bad:
flood car/rust/salvage title
alternator
hids
previous owner syndrome


I think two e36s means the time is right to have my own thread for this craziness.

$900 for that? That would be the perfect LeMons car if LeMons wasn't already plagued by too many BMWs after you strip it out and sell the bits.

I wish there were $900 E36s where I live. I wish there were $900 BMWs where I live.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

an oddly awful oud posted:

It is perfectly doable but you need to find a reputable refurbisher and it will cost you upwards of $100 per wheel just for the straightening- usually more if the rim is really hosed up. You have to consider the rarity of your wheels and the difficulty/cost of simply finding a replacement (or replacement set).

Also depends on the state. Can't pass inspection in Vermont if the shop knows you had them straightened, it's no longer permissible here. All of the wheel repair shops closed and left a while back when this was changed.

This is made even more fun since our roads are extra lovely, and I replaced all my OEM 159s with new 159s from Tischer, and I can already tell one is horribly out of round.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta

MrChips posted:

I wish there were $900 E36s where I live. I wish there were $900 BMWs where I live.

Yeah it was really sheer luck. The dude actually has another E36 so that made negotiations really easy. I actually had to drive to Cincy for it (funny sidenote, our last three cars have been from Cincinnati). The drive back was scary since the alternator is shot. I was able to limp it home 80 miles but it was pretty harrowing for a while. It actually broke down on the dude when he was driving it to meet me!

I will start a thread and document the horrors inside this car. It's got some amusing quirks. Like the battery tray is so rusted that the battery could potentially fall out of the car at any moment. There's a good 8x8 patch of ground you can see from the trunk without a battery in. Anyway I knew what I was getting into and I wanted a beater so this is perfect. It's actually fun to drive and I enjoy the contrast between the 318is and the 325i.

Oh one thing I just remembered. It has a tow hitch that the po built and installed himself.

Deceptor101
Jul 7, 2007

What fun is a project if it doesn't at least slightly ruin your life?
Well, I took the car out again for a drive, to see if the SES(CEL) would come back on post fuel filter. It did, so now I need to fight with the PO who sold it to me, as I can't smog it. He of course didn't pick up when I called, but as he's legally responsible, and I have his address, I can get it handled, we'll just see how difficult it will be. The only thing that confuses me, is it's PO171 and that's lean bank 1. As the m62 is a v8, if it was anything but injectors, wouldn't I be getting PO174 (bank 2) as well? Most of the time those codes are vacuum leaks or fuel filters or maf. Sort of pre-bank stuff? I'd like to give the guy an idea of what it could be so, he's more likely to help me willingly. Getting it repaired myself and dragging his rear end to court is the last thing I want to do.

All that nonsense aside, the car feels fantastic. I took it on a twisty road, and even with the thrust arm bushings shot, it handles the turns so well. It feels basically as nimble as my e46, and the sport suspension is brilliantly firm yet comfortable.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot

Deceptor101 posted:

Well, I took the car out again for a drive, to see if the SES(CEL) would come back on post fuel filter. It did, so now I need to fight with the PO who sold it to me, as I can't smog it. He of course didn't pick up when I called, but as he's legally responsible, and I have his address, I can get it handled, we'll just see how difficult it will be. The only thing that confuses me, is it's PO171 and that's lean bank 1. As the m62 is a v8, if it was anything but injectors, wouldn't I be getting PO174 (bank 2) as well? Most of the time those codes are vacuum leaks or fuel filters or maf. Sort of pre-bank stuff? I'd like to give the guy an idea of what it could be so, he's more likely to help me willingly. Getting it repaired myself and dragging his rear end to court is the last thing I want to do.

All that nonsense aside, the car feels fantastic. I took it on a twisty road, and even with the thrust arm bushings shot, it handles the turns so well. It feels basically as nimble as my e46, and the sport suspension is brilliantly firm yet comfortable.

Sounds like lower intake gaskets. It is not to bad of a job really, just time consuming as all gently caress.

I am glad your enjoy the ride. For a relatively heavy car they have brilliant suspensions that make them handle really well. I also love the rush when you hit the accelerator. Its about as close to owning M5/M3 with out the associated costs.

rscott
Dec 10, 2009
There's a $900 BMW in my area, its a 318is with a popped head gasket. :(

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

rscott posted:

There's a $900 BMW in my area, its a 318is with a popped head gasket. :(

HG on the M10 is really a piece of cake compared to most. The M42 is a bit more complicated though.

Deceptor101
Jul 7, 2007

What fun is a project if it doesn't at least slightly ruin your life?

BrokenKnucklez posted:

Sounds like lower intake gaskets. It is not to bad of a job really, just time consuming as all gently caress.

I am glad your enjoy the ride. For a relatively heavy car they have brilliant suspensions that make them handle really well. I also love the rush when you hit the accelerator. Its about as close to owning M5/M3 with out the associated costs.

I took a look at a diy for that and that would easily make sense. It doesn't look too bad. He called me this morning so I'm hoping he'll cooperate and just get a mechanic to fix it. If worst comes to worst, I can definitely do that diy no problem. I don't want to drive the car until its fixed though, as running lean can damage things, right? God I hope he wasn't running it like that for months....

CornHolio
May 20, 2001

Toilet Rascal

Beach Bum posted:

HG on the M10 is really a piece of cake compared to most. The M42 is a bit more complicated though.

In this month's roundel there's an article on a classic BMW meet that contained a number of 2002s; One of them blew a head gasket while there, and in the parking lot in the middle of the night two guys changed it in under two hours.

littlewing
Apr 10, 2003

Finally figured out what was causing my 1600 to overheat at idle... I zoned out when I was reading the documentation for the electric fan. Most people running s14's get fans that push between 12-1600 cfm. Mine is pushing 760. When I looked at the documentation I saw a line that said 1250 and didn't check the units of measurement. Oh well. At least I know what the cause is and I can get it fixed pretty easily.

Kenshin
Jan 10, 2007

littlewing posted:

Finally figured out what was causing my 1600 to overheat at idle... I zoned out when I was reading the documentation for the electric fan. Most people running s14's get fans that push between 12-1600 cfm. Mine is pushing 760. When I looked at the documentation I saw a line that said 1250 and didn't check the units of measurement. Oh well. At least I know what the cause is and I can get it fixed pretty easily.

Actually, on that note, my 99 M3 starts overheating in bad traffic. The only way around it is to blast my heater at 90F, which is uncomfortable in the summer (when it usually happens) and miserable otherwise (because I'm in Seattle and if it isn't summer it's raining).

Oil is fine, coolant is fine (my mechanic deals with both of those things).

It doesn't start quickly either, I have to have been driving at normal temperatures for 20+ minutes and then be in stop-and-go traffic for at least another 15+ minutes (especially going up-hill, but in really bad traffic it'll happen idling letting myself coast downhill every time the traffic moves forward).

I know the temperature sensor is telling me the truth because as it starts moving up toward the white line (I never let it get past that) I can hear the engine note change subtly, and it purrs happily again once I'm blasting the heater.

Anyone have any ideas what could be going on? Do E36 M3s just hate traffic jams?

littlewing
Apr 10, 2003

Kenshin posted:

Actually, on that note, my 99 M3 starts overheating in bad traffic. The only way around it is to blast my heater at 90F, which is uncomfortable in the summer (when it usually happens) and miserable otherwise (because I'm in Seattle and if it isn't summer it's raining).

Oil is fine, coolant is fine (my mechanic deals with both of those things).

It doesn't start quickly either, I have to have been driving at normal temperatures for 20+ minutes and then be in stop-and-go traffic for at least another 15+ minutes (especially going up-hill, but in really bad traffic it'll happen idling letting myself coast downhill every time the traffic moves forward).

I know the temperature sensor is telling me the truth because as it starts moving up toward the white line (I never let it get past that) I can hear the engine note change subtly, and it purrs happily again once I'm blasting the heater.

Anyone have any ideas what could be going on? Do E36 M3s just hate traffic jams?

Just off the top of my head I'd consider looking at your fan(s) and the thermostat.

Edit: I really need to change this avatar.

littlewing fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Aug 7, 2012

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
I have a friend with a 97 E36 328i. They think the head gasket is shot, and the dad is freaking out saying its going to need a new engine. I think its salvageable on the other hand.

What do you say? I think a new head gasket, new head bolts and shes good as new.

The Third Man
Nov 5, 2005

I know how much you like ponies so I got you a ponies avatar bro
I guess that would depend on whether or not it ate a bunch of coolant, wouldn't it?

Otis Reddit
Nov 14, 2006

Kenshin posted:

Actually, on that note, my 99 M3 starts overheating in bad traffic. The only way around it is to blast my heater at 90F, which is uncomfortable in the summer (when it usually happens) and miserable otherwise (because I'm in Seattle and if it isn't summer it's raining).

Oil is fine, coolant is fine (my mechanic deals with both of those things).

It doesn't start quickly either, I have to have been driving at normal temperatures for 20+ minutes and then be in stop-and-go traffic for at least another 15+ minutes (especially going up-hill, but in really bad traffic it'll happen idling letting myself coast downhill every time the traffic moves forward).

I know the temperature sensor is telling me the truth because as it starts moving up toward the white line (I never let it get past that) I can hear the engine note change subtly, and it purrs happily again once I'm blasting the heater.

Anyone have any ideas what could be going on? Do E36 M3s just hate traffic jams?

Sounds like thermostat. Maybe fan and/or fan clutch. This was me last summer; ended up being the t-stat. However, here I am this summer redoing the whole cooling system so you should probably just do so all at once now.

(also a 99 M3)

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
So I was pulling up to a stoplight today (1994 325is, 5-spd) and steadily braking. Midway through my stop, I felt a *bump* in the brake and the pedal shot up toward me. This didn't really impact the car's ability to stop, but the brake pedal feels closer (or "higher") than it used to be. It feels stiffer and has less travel than it used to, but it still stops the car fine- if anything, it sort of feels "newer."

I've had the car for about a month and a half at this point and the brake was a bit soft, but it never felt old or faulty. Having driven the car for a half-hour or so since then, I can't help but feel like the car is working against more resistance to accelerate. However, the gauges definitely don't look out of the ordinary in terms of revs vs. speed and the car seems to coast fine, so it might all be in my head.

Any potential culprits?

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot

Electric Bugaloo posted:

So I was pulling up to a stoplight today (1994 325is, 5-spd) and steadily braking. Midway through my stop, I felt a *bump* in the brake and the pedal shot up toward me. This didn't really impact the car's ability to stop, but the brake pedal feels closer (or "higher") than it used to be. It feels stiffer and has less travel than it used to, but it still stops the car fine- if anything, it sort of feels "newer."

I've had the car for about a month and a half at this point and the brake was a bit soft, but it never felt old or faulty. Having driven the car for a half-hour or so since then, I can't help but feel like the car is working against more resistance to accelerate. However, the gauges definitely don't look out of the ordinary in terms of revs vs. speed and the car seems to coast fine, so it might all be in my head.

Any potential culprits?

First thing is jack it up and give the wheels a spin, that would be an easy way to tell if you have a stuck caliper. But do a complete inspection of the brake pedal and linkage. Sounds like you could use a brake fluid flush as well. The brake fluid should look nice and clear. If it it looks old or just not in good shape, flush it, that would be a good thing to start with.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Why the hell are E36's routinely cheaper than E30's?

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
I'd also check the brake booster and the hoses connected to it.

Kenshin
Jan 10, 2007

juche mane posted:

Sounds like thermostat. Maybe fan and/or fan clutch. This was me last summer; ended up being the t-stat. However, here I am this summer redoing the whole cooling system so you should probably just do so all at once now.

(also a 99 M3)
Good to know.

I don't think I'll need to redo the whole system though since the radiator and all were replaced about 3 years ago, just before I bought it.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta

opengl128 posted:

Why the hell are E36's routinely cheaper than E30's?

Didn't they build like a billion E36s? That might explain it.

I decided to consolidate my E36 crap in my own thread so I will start posting my poo poo there instead of here. I'll still read this thread though.

http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3500109

littlewing
Apr 10, 2003

opengl128 posted:

Why the hell are E36's routinely cheaper than E30's?

The e30 m3 is frequently cited as the winningest chassis in touring car racing. I don't know if that's just lore or based in reality. For me the Neue Klasse (1600/1602/2002) and e30's are 2 examples of BMW at it's absolute best. There's just so much history there. I think you'll find a lot of people feel the same way and are now at the age where they can afford to get one and fix it up. 02's are jumping in price and it's no surprise that the e30 is the next choice for a "classic" BMW. The e36 will get there too, but I don't think people hold them in the same regard as the e30's. At least not yet.

Crustashio
Jul 27, 2000

ruh roh

opengl128 posted:

Why the hell are E36's routinely cheaper than E30's?

E30 has a cult following as a great lightweight RWD car, and at this point they are 21 years old minimum. There aren't really "Decent" examples left, they tend to either be abused/neglected or near mint condition.

4 years ago, I bought a fantastic rustfree e30 coupe for 4k. These days, 6k would be pushing it.

Bulky Bartokomous
Nov 3, 2006

In Mypos, only the strong survive.

opengl128 posted:

Why the hell are E36's routinely cheaper than E30's?

It really is just a simple case of supply and demand. There just aren't many choice E30s floating around for sale so when they go for sale they get snatched up quickly and at a premium.

A lot of people want them for track cars.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
I see E36's every where. The E30s are a brilliant chassis for a track car. I think Lighbulb Out has a couple. Even with the anemic M10/M42, the E30 is still a fun car to thrash around. The E36 318i is just to heavy for the power plant.

Plus E46's are starting to come down in price, making the E36 seem "out of date". So the status types that just want the name with out the full price. (does this make sense?)

Edit: I need sleep.... Been up for 36 hours is not the best idea!

BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 13:53 on Aug 7, 2012

Lightbulb Out
Apr 28, 2006

slack jawed yokel
Basically what everyone else has said. It's hard to find a decent E30 around, and they seem to only be gaining popularity. I've got a 325is fun car and a 318i daily, and they rule. I'd love to get an E36 or an E46, but I want a damned limited slip.

Fermunky
May 30, 2003

The monkey is NOT impressed...

Lightbulb Out posted:

Basically what everyone else has said. It's hard to find a decent E30 around, and they seem to only be gaining popularity. I've got a 325is fun car and a 318i daily, and they rule. I'd love to get an E36 or an E46, but I want a damned limited slip.

I think the Bokchoys FAQ says an E46 M3 lsd will work in the non-M3's along with the M3 axles and driveshaft.

Edit: The site says "This has been reported to work...", so I dunno.
http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/faq.htm

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Fermunky posted:

I think the Bokchoys FAQ says an E46 M3 lsd will work in the non-M3's along with the M3 axles and driveshaft.

Edit: The site says "This has been reported to work...", so I dunno.
http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/faq.htm

You have to swap pretty much the entire rear end of the car IIRC, subframe and suspension included. I asked around on BMW forums about it when my diff bit the dust a few years back and the general conclusion was that it's not worth it on E46s.

On the plus side, Vorshlag's still moving ahead with their 8.8" swap project, that's apparently now prioritized above the LSx kit, so hopefully by the end of the year a variety of inexpensive Ford diffs will be usable options. IIRC the compatible units will be found in MN12 T-Bird/Cougars, FN10 Mark VIIIs, "Terminator" Cobras, and last-generation Explorers.

Keyser_Soze
May 5, 2009

Pillbug
Based on my own research in wanting an LSD for my E46 330 I think the most reasonable options are to first get a "donor diff" from a wrecking yard for $300 if you don't already have the gearing you want. Then buy either the Quaife, Kaaz, or (and there is one other brand now) for $1,300-$2,500, then find a shop to build it out and install it all for 6+ hours of labor. You are looking at a minimum $2,000 to get it done. :suicide:

The Ford options above would be great, especially if it can be bought and installed for under $1,000.

It's a mess and why I am only just switching my 2.93 to a 3.15 for around $700. A tiny bit more grunt but whatever I just want to make the car more interesting for the next 2 years and then target a E46 M3.

Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Aug 7, 2012

Lightbulb Out
Apr 28, 2006

slack jawed yokel
gently caress, I might as well just save for an E46 M3 or bite the bullet on an E36 and deal with it. E30 LSDs are pretty common, at least in my experience, so its a real disappointment. My brother has a '95 318ti that is completely bare of any features minus an LSD.

The Third Man
Nov 5, 2005

I know how much you like ponies so I got you a ponies avatar bro
I've wanted to take a trip out West for years, and I'll be getting married soon and a road trip honeymoon sounds like a lot of fun. My e46 328Ci just rolled over 140k miles, however, and the possibility of getting stranded with expensive repairs that I won't be able to do myself is a sobering prospect. The car has been running like a top for the last 20k miles or so, and hasn't had any big repairs that I'm aware of. The only grief it's given me recently are some very occasional shudders or rpm dips at idle. Is it a terrible idea to take the car on a ~5k mile trip, or am I risking too much? Would paying for a thorough inspection make much of a difference, or is there just no way to predict how a high-mileage car will handle a journey like that?

Keyser_Soze
May 5, 2009

Pillbug
Take it to an indy shop (bimrs.org) for a quick inspection and have them check all the rubber and plastic bits in the engine, especially the hoses and expansion tank. That poo poo will leave you on the side of the road if you have a failure. Have the oil changed as well. My 2002 E46 has 126k miles on it, but I proactively replace everything pretty much way before it can fail.

Crustashio
Jul 27, 2000

ruh roh

Lightbulb Out posted:

gently caress, I might as well just save for an E46 M3 or bite the bullet on an E36 and deal with it. E30 LSDs are pretty common, at least in my experience, so its a real disappointment. My brother has a '95 318ti that is completely bare of any features minus an LSD.

E36 LSDs are dirt cheap and common as hell since the m3 subframe is the same as the non-m. Early models also had LSD as an option. Basically 300 bucks for an LSD if you can install it yourself.

As said earlier, e46 non-M LSDs are basically 2000 minimum. For a good clutch-type LSD you can get even higher, up to 4000. It's one of the main reasons I sold my ZHP - no LSD not so fun for autoX/track use. Rather than spend 4k on an LSD, I sold it at a slight loss to get an e36 m3.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



The Third Man posted:

I've wanted to take a trip out West for years, and I'll be getting married soon and a road trip honeymoon sounds like a lot of fun. My e46 328Ci just rolled over 140k miles, however, and the possibility of getting stranded with expensive repairs that I won't be able to do myself is a sobering prospect. The car has been running like a top for the last 20k miles or so, and hasn't had any big repairs that I'm aware of. The only grief it's given me recently are some very occasional shudders or rpm dips at idle. Is it a terrible idea to take the car on a ~5k mile trip, or am I risking too much? Would paying for a thorough inspection make much of a difference, or is there just no way to predict how a high-mileage car will handle a journey like that?

Has this roadtrip honeymoon been approved by he bride to be?

SuperDucky
May 13, 2007

by exmarx

littlewing posted:

The e30 m3 is frequently cited as the winningest chassis in touring car racing.
Who knows if it's just 8380 circle jerking but: http://www.8380labs.com/products/m3-track-king

Also n^thing the e30 love. My first BMW was an e36M3 and I thought I would never own anything else. After they all pissed me off, I saw a 6 cylinder swapped divingboard 318 in imola an hour after it was posted on C/L. I bought it that day and will not look back. (Although a 24v swap is probably in its future as the m20 is pretty tired. :ninja:)

GazChap
Dec 4, 2004

I'm hungry. Feed me.
If any UK lovers of Bavaria are looking for a decent E38, why not take a look at mine? ;)

Only selling because with the M5 and the Celica I've got, having the E38 as well is redundant.

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discstickers
Jul 29, 2004

So my local dealership got a lease return on a fleet 328xi recently.

Except that it's got the 6-speed and the M-sport package. :wtf: kind of fleet buys that?

I'm assuming it was some sort small business where the owner just leased the car through the company.

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