|
Buffalo squeeze posted:I need to glue legs made of aluminum and plastic to glass shelf, can anyone recommend what kind of glue I should use? https://www.thistothat.com says to use Loctite Impruv for both metal to glass and plastic to glass.
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2012 23:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 2, 2024 22:00 |
|
|
Outside unit central AC quit, help! We've had highs up to 110f the last week and it's been really working hard. I heard a funny noise outside last night and didn't think anything of it until an hour or so later I saw thermostat saying it was hotter than it was earlier. Blower was blowing non cooled air out the vents. I went outside nothing running out there. But if I put my ear close to it I could hear a slight 60hz hum. The top of the AC where the fan motor mounts to was very hot, something wrong level hot. I shut everything off. This morning I, tried it again, the actual compressor in the outside unit started running and the condensor got hot but the fan above it was not running. 1st question is not very DIY but what typically is a warranty on one of these? It's a carrier. When I bought the house, PO said I think 2006 is when it was installed. To the diy part, I talked to my dad and he's saying it probably just needs a new fan motor or capacitor. He wasn't sure what the cap does, whether it's for starting the fan, compressor, both or maybe there's one for each? Why would nothing be running last night but I do get compressor today? Maybe the fan failed last night and maybe compressor went to thermal protect shutdown?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2012 15:19
|
|
|
Wagonburner posted:Outside unit central AC quit, help! Your dad's right. That's nearly 100% certain that the starter capacitor blew. You can replace that yourself for under $25. Turn off your AC at the thermostat, pull the quick disconnect outside, take the panel off the side of your condenser, write down which color wires plug where into the cap terminals on top, unplug them, pull the cap out and start going through the yellow pages. Look for AC suppliers that sell to customers and not just to repairmen. Call up a few and see if they have any in stock. You will probably need to read them a few numbers off the label of the cap. Also ask for a price over the phone. $15-$25 sounds right. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Aug 1, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2012 16:24
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Your dad's right. That's nearly 100% certain that the starter capacitor blew. You can replace that yourself for under $25. Turn off your AC at the thermostat, pull the quick disconnect outside, take the panel off the side of your condenser, write down which color wires plug where into the cap tabs on top, unplug them, pull the cap out and start going through the yellow pages. Look for AC suppliers that sell to customers and not just to repairmen. Call up a few and see if they have any in stock. You will probably need to read them a few numbers off the label of the cap. Also ask for a price over the phone. $15-$25 sounds right. Thanks. And I just got back home, I read something on the internet says try to start the fan with a stick. I did that, it started spinning up, lots faster than what I hit it with the stick but still nowhere fast as it normally goes. Is the motor maybe bad? or is the cap continually used to keep it spinning full speed. (I was under the impression caps on motors are only for getting them going from a stop but I may be wrong)
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2012 16:31
|
|
|
Wagonburner posted:Thanks. And I just got back home, I read something on the internet says try to start the fan with a stick. I did that, it started spinning up, lots faster than what I hit it with the stick but still nowhere fast as it normally goes. Is the motor maybe bad? or is the cap continually used to keep it spinning full speed. (I was under the impression caps on motors are only for getting them going from a stop but I may be wrong) Nope, the motor is fine. Caps are like high speed batteries. They store and discharge electricity very quickly. Remember how I called it a starter capacitor? Starter capacitors give big motors like that fan an extra jolt of electricity to get them spinning at startup. That's why people use a stick to test the fan. If you can start the fan spinning by hand, then you can tell the fan motor is fine, it's just the cap that's bad.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2012 16:38
|
|
|
Just replaced the cap, only $15 and all seems to be good now. fan running full speed and cold air inside. Thanks kid sinister. If only I'd have known last night $15 would do it. I had all these $4000+ thoughts running through my head not letting me sleep. (the 78f temp inside didn't help either.) Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Aug 1, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2012 16:50
|
|
|
well crap maybe it doesn't work. I put the cap in, with the access panel off I turned everything back on, saw the fan was running full speed, felt cool air inside as stated in post above so seeing that I shut everything off to put the access panel back on and now it's back to where it was last night. 60hz hum only, no compressor no fan. edit: and now it works again after a little bit of a wait. I wonder if running it with the access panel off for a bit had sent it to thermal shutdown again for a while? (the comp was running but the fan was pulling air through the big missing panel hole instead of through condensor for a few mins) Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Aug 1, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2012 19:21
|
|
|
Wagonburner posted:well crap maybe it doesn't work. I put the cap in, with the access panel off I turned everything back on, saw the fan was running full speed, felt cool air inside as stated in post above so seeing that I shut everything off to put the access panel back on and now it's back to where it was last night. 60hz hum only, no compressor no fan. that was most likely the thermostat. Newer thermostats lock the system out after it has started and stopped rapidly to protect it. Usually 3-5 minutes waiting and you're good to go. The humming you hear is from the contactor. When the thermostat tells the system it needs cold air to maintain temperature it sends a signal outside to the contactor which completes the circuit and gets everything running. Jaweeeblop fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Aug 2, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2012 23:59
|
|
|
Electricity question! I live in Houston in a house built in 1961. It's been really hot here and the ac has been off for maybe 30 minutes this morning before it kicked back on. I was filling the pool with water and then I came inside to take a shower (water outside still running). Every light, the ac, everything running on electricity is randomly flickering. I tried turning the outside water off-still flickering/surging. I turned the ac off for ten minutes- no change. Any ideas? It's 7 pm here and the only thing I can think of is maybe this is a power surge since power use is probably at its peak?
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2012 01:36
|
|
|
nwin posted:Electricity question! Sounds like a brownout.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2012 03:56
|
|
|
pseudonordic posted:Sounds like a brownout. The only other thing that I did was pour some water near the side of the house with the pool filter on it...there's a piece of conduit around there, but I'm not sure if water splashed on it or not. However, it should be waterproof. For the sake of argument, if that did get water on it, could that be making one side of the house surge like this???thats the only thin coming to mind. Should I be worried about the loving house catching fire due to exposed wiring or something? I'm at a loss...
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2012 04:20
|
|
|
Sounds like a loose wire. Check your main panel and see if there's evidence of heating/melting at any of the terminals for the main leads. From your symptoms, it's probably one of the two mains but could be a neutral or ground connection. Could potentially be in your meter, too.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2012 10:51
|
|
|
What's the best way to deal with a (plastic) new work box that's decided to migrate? There's one lone box in my parents' house that's angled itself ever so slightly, putting the right side proud of the drywall and the left side behind the drywall. As a result neither the wall plate nor the receptacle fit properly. We're putting in new fixtures, switches, and receptacles anyway to update the look. Can I just whack it with a hammer while the power's off?
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2012 20:07
|
|
|
Molten Llama posted:What's the best way to deal with a (plastic) new work box that's decided to migrate? Take a small Dremel tool or one of those oscillating saws (which are loving awesome) and shave off the bit that's sticking out passed the drywall. Or get a file and file it down if you're poor and/or a sissy.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2012 02:33
|
|
|
grover posted:Sounds like a loose wire. Check your main panel and see if there's evidence of heating/melting at any of the terminals for the main leads. From your symptoms, it's probably one of the two mains but could be a neutral or ground connection. Could potentially be in your meter, too.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2012 02:49
|
|
|
I am at a house with a Pfister Price kitchen faucet that is driving me mad. Unless you lift the handle ALL the way up, it quickly drops down, shutting the water off. Also, when you raise the handle ALL the way, it will drop back down after a minute or so and the water goes off. Is this some sort of terrible feature, or is there something that can be done to fix it?
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2012 20:16
|
|
Associate Christ
|
A simple question. I have an old VCR is eating a tape (that was probably messed up before I put it in) so I can't take it out (or maybe I can by ripping it out but that's probably not good for the VCR). I don't care about the tape, but is there anything I should be aware of if I open up the VCR (after unplugging it). Like "don't do this or you'll touch a capacitor and die" or "don't do this or you'll inadvertently break the VCR. (It's a combo DVD player if that matters, but it wouldn't be a terrible loss if I broke the DVD part.)
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2012 21:28
|
|
|
Nah, there's nothing dangerous in a VCR. Just be careful if you remove any gears or springs to ensure you get them back exactly the same way you took them out; drives can be very finicky that way.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2012 22:11
|
|
|
Kaluza-Klein posted:I am at a house with a Pfister Price kitchen faucet that is driving me mad. Unless you lift the handle ALL the way up, it quickly drops down, shutting the water off. Also, when you raise the handle ALL the way, it will drop back down after a minute or so and the water goes off. grover posted:Nah, there's nothing dangerous in a VCR. Just be careful if you remove any gears or springs to ensure you get them back exactly the same way you took them out; drives can be very finicky that way.
|
|
#
?
Aug 5, 2012 04:00
|
|
|
Just came home and my one year old gas dryer is working, but not producing any heat. What can I check to see if this needs a call to a repair guy? I'm pretty handy, but no machinist who can pull this apart in insane detail. But pulling apart the body to expose stuff doesn't scare me. Would love any direction you guys can offer!
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2012 02:25
|
|
|
I'm in the process of converting a closet into a server/networking closet at my house, one of the walls backs up to my electrical panel(it's outside on the exterior wall) so I cut out some drywall to run a new circuit to power the closet. The lower half of the wall has insulation but the upper half where the panel box is located has no insulation anywhere, it's completely bare all the way up to the attic it looks like, and there's a gigantic hole in the brick/fiberboard backing through which all the wires in the panel come out and then head into my attic. I assume there's supposed to be insulation here, but how do I handle insulating around the panel box wires? Does it matter? Can I just blow a bunch of insulation into that whole section through a hole in the drywall? I don't think I can get it in from the attic as I can see a fire block they drilled through to get the wires into the attic. Also given the size of the hole and the fact that panel boxes aren't exactly air tight it seems like a great way for bugs to get in is there anything I can do about that? I just bought the house so haven't moved in yet and didn't bring a camera but I'll try to take some pictures tomorrow. Basically imagine a closet with a big hole in the dry wall exposing bare fiber board and no insulation.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2012 03:33
|
|
|
TraderStav posted:Just came home and my one year old gas dryer is working, but not producing any heat. What can I check to see if this needs a call to a repair guy? I'm pretty handy, but no machinist who can pull this apart in insane detail. But pulling apart the body to expose stuff doesn't scare me. Would love any direction you guys can offer! I had the exact same problem. Was the heating coil, had a break in it. If you have a multimeter (or any continuity tester) you should be able to check one end of the coil to the other, they should have continuity, if they have high resistance, then there is a break. e: nevermind, can't read. Dragyn fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Aug 7, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2012 04:08
|
|
|
I need to take these shelves down so I can strip the wallpaper in my room. Trouble is, I have no idea how they're attached to the wall. Does anybody know how to get these things down? (dimensions 48"x10"x2" if that helps)
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2012 04:10
|
|
|
anchoress posted:I need to take these shelves down so I can strip the wallpaper in my room. Trouble is, I have no idea how they're attached to the wall. Does anybody know how to get these things down? (dimensions 48"x10"x2" if that helps) There should be a nearly invisible plug or patch on the back end of the shelf near the ends that allows access to the screws underneath. Often it is a cleverly colored piece of plastic tape.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2012 04:32
|
|
EVERYTHING I SAY ABOUT JAPAN OR LIVING IN JAPAN IS COMPLETELY WRONG, BUT YOU BETTER BELIEVE I'LL 
ABOUT IT.
|
Dragyn posted:I had the exact same problem. Was the heating coil, had a break in it. If you have a multimeter (or any continuity tester) you should be able to check one end of the coil to the other, they should have continuity, if they have high resistance, then there is a break. He has a gas dryer.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2012 12:41
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:He has a gas dryer. ...and I'm retarded. Disregard me. anchoress posted:I need to take these shelves down so I can strip the wallpaper in my room. Trouble is, I have no idea how they're attached to the wall. Does anybody know how to get these things down? (dimensions 48"x10"x2" if that helps) To redeem myself a bit, I'm fairly certain that's an Ikea Lack floating shelf. I installed one of these not too long ago and the hidden screws are underneath about a half inch from the wall, covered by a couple of small pieces of black sticker.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2012 14:21
|
|
|
Dragyn posted:I had the exact same problem. Was the heating coil, had a break in it. If you have a multimeter (or any continuity tester) you should be able to check one end of the coil to the other, they should have continuity, if they have high resistance, then there is a break. Appreciate the attempt, no less. I just stuck my leaf blower in the vent, checked the vent hose, cleared the filter and let something run for two minutes and no heat, it's set to high heat. Does the heat take some time to kick on? Should I be more patient? Bought this new last June from Lowes, any idea off the tops of your heads if it would have greater than a one year warranty?
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2012 14:37
|
|
|
TraderStav posted:Just came home and my one year old gas dryer is working, but not producing any heat. What can I check to see if this needs a call to a repair guy? I'm pretty handy, but no machinist who can pull this apart in insane detail. But pulling apart the body to expose stuff doesn't scare me. Would love any direction you guys can offer! Mine did the same thing and I posted on some doityourself.com I think forum and was told it's almost always solenoid coils, there's 2, that open the gas valves. I think they were sold together. Was like $40 I think. I had to take mine completely down, drum out and everything to get to them. But they work just like a furnace with an ignitor and a flame sensor, those could be the problem too, I just took the advice of the guys on the board that coils are "what it almost always is" and I got lucky. TraderStav posted:it's set to high heat. Does the heat take some time to kick on? Should I be more patient? Mine spins and blows air for at least a minute or 2 before the gas comes on. Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Aug 7, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2012 15:45
|
|
|
Wagonburner posted:Mine did the same thing and I posted on some doityourself.com I think forum and was told it's almost always solenoid coils, there's 2, that open the gas valves. I think they were sold together. Was like $40 I think. Appreciate the feedback, I won't have time to rip open the dryer until this weekend, and was just told that if I bought it on the credit card I should get a 3 year warranty, going to run down that path first and see where it takes me!
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2012 16:41
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:If there's a cap with a logo on it, pop it off and tighten the screw under there. If not, there's a screw on the front of the handle and you need to tighten that. I finally got around to doing this and thank you so much! I completely destroyed the logo getting it off, but it is oh so nice not having to have the tap on full blast or nothing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 01:22
|
|
|
TraderStav posted:Just came home and my one year old gas dryer is working, but not producing any heat. What can I check to see if this needs a call to a repair guy? I'm pretty handy, but no machinist who can pull this apart in insane detail. But pulling apart the body to expose stuff doesn't scare me. Would love any direction you guys can offer! Depends on the make & model. When this happens to my Kenmore (a rebadged Whirlpool), it's either the ignitor (which runs about $50) or one of the fuses (thermal or thermal cut out) which are like $6 apiece. I have to lay it on it's face & unscrew the back panel. http://www.repairclinic.com/Whirlpool-Dryer-Parts You can fix damned near any appliance by just googling the model number & taking it from there. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Aug 8, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 04:14
|
|
|
TraderStav posted:Just came home and my one year old gas dryer is working, but not producing any heat. What can I check to see if this needs a call to a repair guy? I'm pretty handy, but no machinist who can pull this apart in insane detail. But pulling apart the body to expose stuff doesn't scare me. Would love any direction you guys can offer! My gas dryer stopped heating at one point also. First thing to check is if the "overheat fuse" is blown. If its not that, its likely the gas valves, thats what mine was. Was easy to fix, just replaced them, the valves are behind the lower access panel (Kenmore)
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 06:11
|
|
|
dwoloz posted:My gas dryer stopped heating at one point also. First thing to check is if the "overheat fuse" is blown. If its not that, its likely the gas valves, thats what mine was. Was easy to fix, just replaced them, the valves are behind the lower access panel (Kenmore) Thanks, I'm glad to hear all of things mentioned should have been covered under the warranty. Have a repair guy coming out and chase is footing the bill. I love DIY, but when someone else will pay to do the work...
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 14:56
|
|
|
Kaluza-Klein posted:I finally got around to doing this and thank you so much! I completely destroyed the logo getting it off, but it is oh so nice not having to have the tap on full blast or nothing. False alarm! Now the next day it is back to its old habits. Could this point to something else being wrong?
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 18:19
|
|
|
I'm looking to build a squat rack in the unfinished part of my basement, but the concrete floor isn't level. I could potentially build around this fact, but in the interest of stability and safety, I think it's a much better idea to start on a level surface. How does one level out a concrete floor?
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2012 13:48
|
|
|
Newf posted:How does one level out a concrete floor? Leveling compound! Optionally, you could make your rack's leveling adjustable with either T-nuts or insert nuts on the bottom in the corners for 4 feet, then use elevator bolts for the actual feet.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2012 15:45
|
|
|
If you use self leveler you'll probably want to make a dam the size of the racks footprint. The leveler is expensive and gets used up quickly so it might be best to direct it only where needed Alternatively, you could lay a piece of pressure treated plywood as the base (or plywood+poly sheet). This should (mostly) give you a flat surface. Could bolt it into the slab so it doesn't move
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2012 17:39
|
|
|
Depending on how bad the floor is, what about either using rubber interlocking tiles (I know they sell them at Lowes), or get a horse stall mat or two to put under the rack? If the problem is mostly chips in the floor here and there, I imagine that either of these solutions would absorb that, and would also have the benefit of protecting the floor a bit if you dropped a weight on it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2012 18:03
|
|
|
I'm looking into this stuff, but about the leveling compound: how thick can that stuff be applied? Most of the videos I see on youtube are of people using it to smooth out a rough surface. My problem here isn't really that the concrete isn't smooth, but that it's slanted. Probably a height difference of 1.5-2 inches from one corner of the rack to the other.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2012 12:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 2, 2024 22:00 |
|
|
I am replacing, then extending an existing supply line for an outdoor spigot that runs through a vented crawlspace. The crawlspace vents poorly and we're getting enough moisture to grow trace mold in the insulation between the floor joists above. My main concern is winterizing that line and I'm debating whether I should: A) insulate/heat the crawlspace and install anti-freeze spigots B) leave the crawlspace be and install a stop-and-waste valve inside the main foundation, so I can shut off and drain the line every winter The crawlspace has a single vent, no air movement, and no ground cover or vapor barrier of any sort except what's draped over the joists to stuff insulation in. The moisture problem is exacerbated by the dryer venting into the crawlspace. Since the mold grows along the vector the vent gas takes, it's obviously a big part of the problem.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2012 15:03
|
|