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Dominion posted:Does anyone make 28mm scale undead babies? Studio minis does a bunch of zombie kids in their Tiny Terrors set.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 04:46 |
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# ? Jun 7, 2024 17:48 |
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Dominion posted:Does anyone make 28mm scale undead babies? If anyone would, it'd be Malifaux. They have dead kids and possessed demon babies, at least.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 04:46 |
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This is the little hellspawn you want if you're after zombie kids. Guaranteed to freak people out.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 04:57 |
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On a journey to paint about 20 red box miniatures for D&D. First up: (I never finished his hair oops) I'm doing two more and I'm sad because faces are so hard Here's some amazing red box minis painted up way better than I ever will: TastyAvocado fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Aug 14, 2012 |
# ? Aug 14, 2012 04:57 |
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Red Box Games has a Kickstarter. Want to be in on this, but I don't have the cash available
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 05:00 |
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TastyAvocado posted:On a journey to paint about 20 red box miniatures for D&D. First up: That is sexy as. I love it when a painted landscape makes me wish I was in it, and this miniature makes me want to play as that guy. Well done.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 05:02 |
Fearless posted:The guys I normally play with only use superglue and are continually complaining about disintegrating models and fogged up transparent pieces. I keep telling them that there are other glues out there that do a better job on a variety of things, but it's like talking to a wall. I think y'all are doing it wrong somehow, my superglue bonds are usually so strong that the plastic will often start to bend or break before the joints will break. I never purposely score the surfaces but I am pretty aggressive when trimming down the sprue connection areas so maybe that's why? I also use quite a bit of glue.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 05:08 |
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ghetto wormhole posted:I think y'all are doing it wrong somehow, my superglue bonds are usually so strong that the plastic will often start to bend or break before the joints will break. I never purposely score the surfaces but I am pretty aggressive when trimming down the sprue connection areas so maybe that's why? I also use quite a bit of glue. Likewise. I don't know what it is, I use selleys quick fix and my guys are incredibly sturdy, even the small delicate bits. Everyone else in my group however (most of which use either the GW paint-on glue or similar) are always having limbs drop off mid-game.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 05:17 |
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Ok, first time trying out dry brushing for real. I'm following a tutorial and it's close enough I guess. I'd like the inscribed sections to pop more, maybe do a neon green wash or something? This is kinda out of my element. MasterSlowPoke fucked around with this message at 08:15 on Aug 14, 2012 |
# ? Aug 14, 2012 05:28 |
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MasterSlowPoke posted:[timg] http://www.imgur.com/loftF.jpeg[/timg] Looks pretty good to me. If you want to make some sections a bit more even, just go over them again with your base color. As for the interior sections, a really bright, saturated color (
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 05:36 |
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MasterSlowPoke posted:
That is sexy as hell. As for the inscribed sections, I'd try a wash of whatever colour you have in mind, followed up with a light drybrush to cover up the smudges beyond the grooves. Also what Sushi said.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 08:12 |
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Dominion posted:Does anyone make 28mm scale undead babies? Stop being so dramatic. Just a little BvRipper.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 09:28 |
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One thing I've picked up when applying washes is to keep Q-tips nearby. If you use the swab to soak up the excess wash quick-like, it won't even have time to stain or leave those "oil drop" marks. It's also nice for when you're doing a really heavy wash on a large section of a model and don't necessarily want to discolor flat, untextured sections. So for the necron dealie, I don't know if neon green wash would really do anything but tint the inscribed sections? but keep a cotton swab on hand to follow after the brush and you can keep it away from the rest of the metal that you want to stay as-is
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 12:57 |
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The Dark Project posted:Just checked on Dakkadakka. The Zombicide miniatures are 28mm true scale, so as tall but thinner than regular miniatures (which I am fine with). I was talking about Zombicide not Zombies!!! The Zombicide miniatures may be about the right height but are spindly as all hell. Lucky for you I have some minis at work to take some quick shots of. I hope I didn't ruin your day. edit: Awesome! \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Aug 14, 2012 |
# ? Aug 14, 2012 14:58 |
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Actually I just came here to post this link. The size works well for what I am after. I like regular scaled miniatures, especially for just average humans. So these will work really well
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 15:02 |
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Here is a great website showing the value for money the Bones kickstarter is : http://greg.botch.com/bones/ Right now the $100 pledge level includes $470 worth of minis at retail.. It's totally addictive to watch how this campaign is growing and the ways they they marketing it to people. I'm currently into it for $205 (the $100 level and every optional mini). midge fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Aug 14, 2012 |
# ? Aug 14, 2012 15:37 |
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The Dark Project posted:Actually I just came here to post this link. This really annoys me because he complained about the original shot using perspective and basing to skew the comparison, then he uses a tiny old space marine in his own shots.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 15:44 |
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midge posted:Here is a great website showing the value for money the Bones kickstarter is : Having no experience with Reaper products - how are they? What's the potential for unloading these minis if there are some I don't care to paint from such a huge package? It's tempting, but I'd like to know more 'bout what I'm about to hop into.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 16:06 |
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DarkDobe posted:Having no experience with Reaper products - how are they? 2 people previously commented : TheLawinator posted:I have a bunch of bones that I picked up at pax east earlier this year. They definitely do take paint without primer, and it's nice to be able to throw them around and have nothing happen. They do bend, but they snap right back over a couple of seconds. I love these drat things. Dominion posted:It's pretty nice. Very bendy but springs back to shape so stuff like swords and spears will bend around but should be easy to fix and won't snap. It supposedly takes paint without primer but I haven't tested that. Oddly enough spray primer stayed tacky for days on it though. I'm pretty sure you'll be able to unload the stuff you don't use to anyone that runs D&D. Even if you sell them for $1 each you'll be making back your money. They also just hit $475k and added more stuff to the $100 package.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 16:08 |
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From everything that I have heard, the Bones line is a good product. Now, it doesn't really compare to the high-quality casting you might get from other companies, but you are also talking about comparing a $2-$3 Bones figure to a $12-$17 figure from another company. Do you want an amazing centerpiece model to display? Probably not Bones. Do you want some fun figures to paint, to use in your army, or to populate your table games? Definitely Bones! I have always been in the habit of picking up random pieces from Reaper because you can get an interesting little figure for $4-$6 and paint something like a dude getting eaten by beetles that you will never see in another line. If you know people that play DnD or any similar game, you can definitely unload a ton of the stuff you might get and not necessarily want. It is causing me physical pain that this kickstarter is going on and hitting these heights when I am totally skint.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 16:15 |
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Yeah I had to jump on the Bones Kickstarter too, Vampire level plus the Frost & Fire giants, plus the Demons and Dragons. 40K question: If I buy some used Predator tanks off eBay, how hard of a job is it to remove the sponsons (side guns) and the turret (if it's glued in) so I can have Rhinos if I need them? I'm thinking Dremel and cutting wheel to take them apart if I have to, then styrene cement and Green Stuff to cover up the cuts. Then I'd magnetize the sponsons so they can come off when I need troop carriers.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 16:16 |
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That is a poo poo ton of effort just to save a few bucks. If you want to go that route just buy them new. Mind you after magnetizing 30 terminators, a predator, and a few other things, I think magnetizing is highly overrated. But predators aren't a bad choice I guess, so you can run them as a rhino/razorback too. Magnetizing the sponsons can be tricky if you want to have the option for lascannons and heavy bolters. But if you just plan on using one kind of sponson, that's a lot easier.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 16:24 |
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Thanks for the input - I have pondered if it's worth it to try and take apart a kit someone else put together. This would be for a Chaos army, so any damage would hopefully fit in with the battle-damaged look I'm planning on, or covered up with skulls and Nurglization. I do know it's definitely not worth getting a used Rhino (£15 or so) plus a turret sprue (£15), sponsons (£8) when a new Predator kit is £35. e: someone on the 40K thread reminded me of the freezer trick to make the joins extra brittle...so now I've got 2 Predators and a Whirlwind (which can become another Rhino I guess) krushgroove fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Aug 14, 2012 |
# ? Aug 14, 2012 16:31 |
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Miles O'Brian posted:This really annoys me because he complained about the original shot using perspective and basing to skew the comparison, then he uses a tiny old space marine in his own shots. Yeah I had only read the first part with the original line up, and then sighed when I saw his scaling next to the old style marine. These will be fine. Looking forward to turning them into a horde of crazed splicers.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 16:32 |
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midge posted:They also just hit $475k and added more stuff to the $100 package. So wait, how's this working? The higher their grand total goes, the more stuff you get for $100, or is it just adding more options that cost additional?
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 17:01 |
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Epi Lepi posted:So wait, how's this working? The higher their grand total goes, the more stuff you get for $100, or is it just adding more options that cost additional? Both. The higher they get the more poo poo you get for your $100 AND unlock more $10-$20 options.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 17:03 |
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drat that Kickstarter. I just had to up my bid by $10 in case they get to the level where I would get to paint a shoggoth.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 17:05 |
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Epi Lepi posted:So wait, how's this working? The higher their grand total goes, the more stuff you get for $100, or is it just adding more options that cost additional? Well, both. At some stretch goals, they add additional free stuff to the $100 bundle and higher. At other stretch goals, they let people access additional options as a 'buy in' (sometimes just people at the $100+, sometimes anyone) So for instance, when the Kickstarter hit $435k, everyone who is getting the $100 bundle will get get six 'Hero' miniatures added to their package free. When the Kickstarter hit $475k, anyone getting the $100 got the option to add a 7" dragon model to their order for . There are also a couple options that are open to anyone. So if you were broke and only pledged $5, you can still addd $25 to your order to get thheir 100 miniature carry case shipped to you. Right now, this is what $100 will get you: That doesn't shot all the crazy $10 buy-ins like Giants, Dragons, carry case, paint sets, etc.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 17:11 |
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krushgroove posted:Thanks for the input - I have pondered if it's worth it to try and take apart a kit someone else put together. This would be for a Chaos army, so any damage would hopefully fit in with the battle-damaged look I'm planning on, or covered up with skulls and Nurglization. I do know it's definitely not worth getting a used Rhino (15 or so) plus a turret sprue (15), sponsons (8) when a new Predator kit is 35. In general, repairing non-metal models from eBay is an absolute nightmare. One tip I can give you is to look carefully for the telltale frosting caused by poorly applied superglue (check black bases!). If any is visible on a plastic model then there's a good chance you'll be able to fix it up. The alternative is that poly-cement has been used (usually liberally) and the model is basically a write-off unless you're willing to spend forever slicing it to bits/greenstuffing. That said, it is kinda fun to buy up somebody's old, unloved models and give them a new lease of life. Just be prepared to spend loads of time scraping away inch-thick layers of glue and chopping up the occasional unsalvageable purchase for your bitz pile.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 17:35 |
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Epi Lepi posted:So wait, how's this working? The higher their grand total goes, the more stuff you get for $100, or is it just adding more options that cost additional? A combo, it looks like. They have a section with 'everything you get for the vampire level' or whatever the gently caress. Then there's 'options'. You pledge an amount, and then there's a page where you pick options. The base level is a bunch of dudes, some fire elementals, ghosts, and whatever. Then for 10 bucks extra you get that and pervy succubi for you to rub with your thumb really hard until they deform. Then, in 10 or 15 dollar increments, you can get some giants and dragons. One of them is the ice giant someone oathed around here not too long ago. So I *think* you could do, for instance 1$ and then add 10 to that to get the fire giants. Or 16 for the dragons. OR you could put in 125 and get the 'vampire' package, and a couple of the other things. Tapdancing christ. e:f,b by ashcans with visual aids.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 17:36 |
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Every 40k model I've got is used, so I'm used to accepting the poses and whatnot - that's how I used to buy miniatures years ago anyway so it's not a big loss for me to not build everything from new sprues. I tend to not mind sprucing up someone's forgotten projects (I built a whole patio full of furniture from wooden pallets, and my model workbench is made from pallets as well) so although it takes longer it's something to do while watching lots of TV or listening to podcasts My first entry in the Oath thread is a bunch of Khorne Berzerkers (some with missing weapons/limbs) and ruined building corners I got off eBay - stripped and re-primered - one of these days I'll get a new GW model
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 17:41 |
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Butbutbut my budget Stop making me spend %125 on minis I like.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 17:49 |
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MasterSlowPoke posted:
Totally unrelated to the question, this totally reminds me of a Wampa head.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 19:53 |
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Ashcans posted:Well, both. At some stretch goals, they add additional free stuff to the $100 bundle and higher. At other stretch goals, they let people access additional options as a 'buy in' (sometimes just people at the $100+, sometimes anyone) If you get the 100$ and like, two 10$ options, you are still paying 1$/miniature. And some of those will be dragons or giants. It's a really good deal if you need to buy more poo poo youll never paint.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 19:57 |
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!amicable posted:If you get the 100$ and like, two 10$ options, you are still paying 1$/miniature. And some of those will be dragons or giants. I really, really want to get that Bones stuff, but I don't even do RPGs and I'll never paint it, so yeah I'm gonna end up passing. It's really loving cool though, and if I thought I'd actually get any use whatsoever of the models I'd be right on it. I can pass on the pervy succubi though.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 20:03 |
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Devlan Mud posted:I really, really want to get that Bones stuff, but I don't even do RPGs and I'll never paint it, so yeah I'm gonna end up passing. It's really loving cool though, and if I thought I'd actually get any use whatsoever of the models I'd be right on it. I can pass on the pervy succubi though. The other thing is that the plastic they are using might be sort of lower quality. I am going to the game store today, the owner has a few promos in. If they aren't that great I probably won't go for it. Otherwise, it's hard to pass up. I can just paint poo poo up the week before I need it for DnD or something like that.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 20:05 |
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!amicable posted:The other thing is that the plastic they are using might be sort of lower quality. I am going to the game store today, the owner has a few promos in. If they aren't that great I probably won't go for it. Otherwise, it's hard to pass up. Bones isn't new, you can go see actual bones minis at the store. The kickstarter is just to recast existing lines as bones. It's bendy white plastic, very lightweight, but seems to hold detail very well. Paintable without primer, as well.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 20:38 |
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Reaper was casting accurate, reasonably high quality miniatures when GW was still making lead bricks that didn't fit together right as tanks and charging twice as much. I'd take a lovely reaper plastic, sight unseen over a GW anything, and the only thing I'd think twice about is that sometimes GW sculpts are way way way better than reaper ones. I wish GW would kill themselves in a Jonestown style massacre, leave their IP to Relic and Steve Jackson, and leave their miniatures and facilities to reaper. Reaper miniatures may look like they have oven mitts for hands. They may look like a squirrel is attacking some girl's butt while she dislocates her shoulder trying to swing her broadsword. They may even look like a mollusk is jerking off in the shower while sitting on a hemarrhoid donut. But the quality of those experiences is impeccable. And they're generally dynamically posed while still being cast in one or two pieces. There wouldn't be a hobby if not for reaper miniatures, and you shouldn't skepticize them. Their unskepticiclyable.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 20:52 |
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:sometimes GW sculpts are way way way better than reaper ones. I actually prefer the slightly old-school hand-sculpted aesthetic of Reaper's miniatures over the hyper-detailed stuff that GW puts out these days. They're just too fussy and annoying to paint. My approach to painting is very much on-again/off-again, sometimes I let a month go by without ever touching my brushes. Reaper's miniatures are so much easier to get back in the groove with, and they let you put in the amount of detail you want because they aren't as fussy and micro-detailed as GW's. Plus, they're extremely reasonably priced, and the range is gigantic. My next order will definitely include this one, which is just begging to be painted up like dr. Zoidberg.
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 21:15 |
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# ? Jun 7, 2024 17:48 |
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When sealing my razorwing, the matte varnish gave the clear plastic canopy a nice hazy finish. Will going back over it with a gloss varnish or 'ard coat or something clear it up?
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# ? Aug 14, 2012 21:19 |