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Dick Burglar posted:Ok that does indeed sound excessive. Eesh. Yeah, it's a lot. Granted, it could be a one-off situation based on what he hit and the resulting damage wouldn't be common but it wasn't pretty. My guess is that it was hit at an angle and the car doesn't seem to be designed for that very well. Perhaps full frontal/side/rear impacts will hold up better. But then, some cars are just poorly designed due to oversights like the medium hit Pontiac Solstice/Sky rear collisions that usually guarantee a write off. Just how it was designed.
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Aug 13, 2012 00:08
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Hog Obituary posted:
This with another 50hp would be amazing.
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Aug 13, 2012 00:18
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Naky posted:I'm surprised because it took out the engine, the right frame rail completely, and half the contents of the engine bay. Let me re-iterate - it was only hit on the right side of the car, like where the headlight was. That's a bit excessive and is borderline poor design in my mind. This dude's probably still paying this thing off and will be for a while. I really don't get the issue here for two reasons: 1) A collision at that speed or higher (because nobody ever speeds, right?) is not going to be something most cars are remotely capable of driving away from, and most cars will need very significant repair work if they can be repaired at all. I would much rather walk away from a completely demolished car, than get carried away from a fixable car on a stretcher. 2) Who the gently caress has a car loan on a brand new car and either a) didn't put enough down to be right side up on the loan or b) doesn't have gap insurance to cover the difference between the payout and the loan balance?
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Aug 13, 2012 00:40
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A friend of mine bought a FR-S and (after 3k miles on the clock) let me take it out for a spirited drive. While the straight-line wasn't that impressive, the moment I took it around a bend I fell in love with the car. There's something about it that just clicks well as a whole package, and combined with a very unique sounding engine, makes me crave to own one for myself. I can see where the complaints due to lack of power come in, but when you're in the upper revs going through a few turns you don't notice it that much. Afterwards, getting into my G37S showed how different the purpose of both cars was. Throttle input lag, numb steering, longer shifter throws, wider/less grippy seats. While better with power and nicer gizmos, there's something about the basic simplicity of the FR-S that reminds me of my old FC RX-7 (without the interior smelling like gasoline).
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Aug 13, 2012 01:11
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Hog Obituary posted:
 It looks even better than I imagined. I'd buy two.
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Aug 13, 2012 01:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:I really don't get the issue here for two reasons: What? Where do you get this info from? I fix cars all the time at that speed or higher. What do you think body shops do, fix bumpers scraped in parking lots all day? If it wasn't clear before, I'm trying to say that there wasn't enough damage done to the rest of the car to indicate it was a 100kmph+ accident, but enough locational damage done to the area that a lower speed collision is pretty much excessive if it was done at the local speeds. And really? Don't tell me you're naive enough that people don't take advantage of all those 0 downpayment car loan offers out there and then take the cheapest insurance coverage you can get. It's shockingly common.
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Aug 13, 2012 01:15
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Hog Obituary posted:
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Aug 13, 2012 01:36
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Naky posted:What? Where do you get this info from? I fix cars all the time at that speed or higher. What do you think body shops do, fix bumpers scraped in parking lots all day? I seriously don't think you comprehend crumple zones. They don't weaken the body to avoid bits of it penetrating the cabin, they build the body so that the impact spreads the load as evenly as possible, hopefully away from the juicy meat bags inside. You say there wasn't enough damage done to the rest of the car; I say the crumple zones probably worked as expected and prevented the rest of the car from buckling in on the occupants. And consider that the amount of damage depends entirely on what they collided with. Another car? Both will share the load; a dirt bank? might get lucky; a concrete pylon? you're probably hosed. Basically, your experience repairing vehicles after accidents doesn't make you an authority on crash scene investigations.
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Aug 13, 2012 04:01
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What was described sounds a lot like the scenario reproduced in the classic frontal offset crash test. Go look some up on youtube or something. Normally they're done at around 60 kph / 40 mph, but no matter what car is being tested, the front end gets totally wrecked because you're concentrating all the force on a pretty small area. And unless you're driving a Chinese car, the rest of the car is pretty much untouched. examples: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95iXpIK8Jh8 S2000 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzATTyPfKg8 Modern Mazda https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxOhzfWIMH8 Mustang https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_eldEld3hA Crown Vic OXBALLS DOT COM fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Aug 13, 2012 |
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Aug 13, 2012 04:50
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assfucker420 posted:I would mostly agree, other than the fact that the 3000GT/GTOs suspension wasn't active. As far as I know there has never been a road-going production car with a traditional active suspension. yes there has, in 1991...  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Soarer#UZZ30.2C_UZZ31_and_UZZ32_Soarer BRZ offset 40mph crash test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDi0pE8IRNg The car got 5/5 ANCAP rating so it doesnt get much better than that. ROFLBOT fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Aug 13, 2012 |
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Aug 13, 2012 05:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:2) Who the gently caress has a car loan on a brand new car and doesn't have gap insurance to cover the difference between the payout and the loan balance? Not that I would do this, but in theory: Since you pay extra on the insurance to have the the additional gap coverage, there would be a break even point, where not paying for the gap coverage would cost you less money if your car was totaled and you had to pay the difference. It's risky, especially on the brand new one, but if you have the cash in your rainy day fund, then you could potentially save more money in the future. Like I said I wouldn't do it because I'd rather pay more over time to know I'm not about to eat a few grand if my car is wrecked. But I had had a discussion about this with my boss and owner of our company, and he said he thinks it's a waste of money (as well as low deductibles). Of course, he has a poo poo ton of money as the owner, and has a nice big two car garage with a 2-3 mile drive to work, where as I have a fraction of his cash flow, no garage, and a 30 minute drive in. So basically gently caress him. But you can see the it's an option is there if you're willing to risk it.
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Aug 13, 2012 06:38
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On average the insurance company comes out ahead. One way to beat insurance is to have more information than they have. If, for instance, you believe your area to be higher crime than the insurance company believes it is, you might pay more for a lower deductible thinking that there is a good chance you will have to use it. What insurance is really really good for is handling costs that you could not possibly afford. If you can afford lose a few thousand (the difference between what you owe and the payout) then you're statistically better off not buying GAP insurance, assuming the insurance company has accurately estimated your risk of needing it. That is, the insurance company figures you have X% chance of needing a payout of $Y so they are going to charge you (X% of $Y + ($P profit)). Your expected cost without insurance is just X% of $Y. If $Y is some amount that you cannot afford (i.e. would meaningfully impact your life) then you should buy insurance.
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Aug 13, 2012 06:55
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ROFLBOT posted:yes there has, in 1991... Well, I'll be damned. Impressive car, a shame the V8 Soarer's tech did not get passed down to the lower-specification models.
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Aug 13, 2012 18:03
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itskage posted:Since you pay extra on the insurance to have the the additional gap coverage, there would be a break even point, where not paying for the gap coverage would cost you less money if your car was totaled and you had to pay the difference. I'd have to double-check my policy, but isn't gap coverage like $15 or so per term? I agree that the $300 or so that the dealers try to get away with is a ripoff, but $3-4/mo makes it worth it.
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Aug 13, 2012 21:04
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Hog Obituary posted:What insurance is really really good for is handling costs that you could not possibly afford. If you can afford lose a few thousand (the difference between what you owe and the payout) then you're statistically better off not buying GAP insurance, assuming the insurance company has accurately estimated your risk of needing it. Sure, but then you aren't the idiot paying down a long term loan on a totaled out car.
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Aug 14, 2012 01:55
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Calgary got hit by a little bit of hail. Anybody want a cheap FRS?
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Aug 14, 2012 02:35
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That reminds me of the Mythbusters where they tested out dimples on a car. It's a more aerodynamic FR-S!
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Aug 14, 2012 02:45
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Improved upforce. What will happen to that car?
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Aug 14, 2012 03:03
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kimbo305 posted:Improved upforce. What will happen to that car? When I originally bought my tC, like 2 weeks later I got hit by a hailstorm of that magnitude. Every panel was damaged, other than the rough because that is made out of some sort of glass and did not dent or crack. Was about 4-5k worth of damage. I've tried to block it from my memory. Really sucks to have your first car banged to poo poo before you even make the first payment. I'd imagine they'll repair it and sell it as a used model.
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Aug 14, 2012 03:16
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Ouch. I found a golf-ball sized chunk of hail on my balcony yesterday, so I figured there'd be some pretty significant hail damage, but that's still pretty sad to see. Another good summer for hail damage repairmen.
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Aug 14, 2012 03:16
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My 2002 WRX looked just like that less than a year after I bought it. I'm still finding dents that were missed 10 years later.
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Aug 14, 2012 03:24
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Powershift posted:Calgary got hit by a little bit of hail. Anybody want a cheap FRS? So much for the cloud seeders (not that I believed it worked before). Whereabouts was this? I didn't get any hail at all last night, but I heard most of the north end got hammered hard.
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Aug 14, 2012 04:52
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I kinda want it. Realistically what kind of savings can be had on a hail damaged car? I assume it comes with a salvaged or otherwise "recovered" title?
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Aug 14, 2012 05:54
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Hog Obituary posted:I kinda want it. Realistically what kind of savings can be had on a hail damaged car? I assume it comes with a salvaged or otherwise "recovered" title? no, hail damage is never a write-off on a new car, unless there's heavy water damage. They'll probably get paid ~10 grand to fix it, spend 2 grand making it look half decent and knock 3 grand off the price.
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Aug 14, 2012 06:20
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Powershift posted:no, hail damage is never a write-off on a new car, unless there's heavy water damage. They'll probably get paid ~10 grand to fix it, spend 2 grand making it look half decent and knock 3 grand off the price. Ah, well that's less appealing than I thought then. I sorta fear new cars because I know I'm going to be the one putting dings, dents, and scrapes in it. Having a pre-dinged car sort of brings me some peace of mind.
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Aug 14, 2012 06:38
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Anybody know if that's a steel or alu hood? Would be interesting to see the repair strategy for that sort of damage. I guess a brand new hood would be cheaper than PDR'ing the dented one, but the unibody is sorta hard to replace. Maybe sell it to some 2F2F wannabe along with a discount on a CF hood and bootlid?
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Aug 14, 2012 08:33
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bolind posted:Maybe sell it to some 2F2F wannabe along with a discount on a CF hood and bootlid? I love it.
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Aug 14, 2012 08:35
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someone should buy it and salvage the usable parts for the inevitable 'retard drifts into tree' crowd.
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Aug 14, 2012 08:35
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bolind posted:Anybody know if that's a steel or alu hood? It's aluminum 
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Aug 14, 2012 14:54
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bolind posted:Anybody know if that's a steel or alu hood? They didn't even contemplate repairing the hood on my WRX. That was the very first thing the adjuster checked off "replacement hood." I never want to actually know what they had to do to repair all the dents in my car (especially the ones in the rain gutters as well as the A and C pillars.) It would probably make me ill.
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Aug 14, 2012 16:39
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It was basically the north end that got its poo poo pushed in. I got unbelievably lucky; both my cars were exposed in that and neither of them took a single ding. A block from me all the cars and houses are demolished, smashed out rear windows, broken corner lights, missing mirror skins. Repairing a hood could be several hours even with PDR, swapping a hood is ten minutes tops. When it's that easy to replace there's no question. The part cost and refinish cost is a lot less than redoing the whole hood. Roofs are what usually totals out the car. The way it was explained to me, they have to drill out all the spot welds, drop the headliner and ceiling accessories and then pull the roof skin off the car, replace it, and then blend it with the pillars.
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Aug 14, 2012 16:56
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Repairing a hood could be several hours even with PDR, swapping a hood is ten minutes tops. When it's that easy to replace there's no question. The part cost and refinish cost is a lot less than redoing the whole hood. Yep, I've done PDR, and that hood being aluminum or steel doesn't really matter, that hood isn't worth saving. It's going to be faster and cheaper to change it. If you brought that into my shop I wouldn't even give you a quote unless you insisted, I'd tell you to just replace it.
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Aug 14, 2012 17:47
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bull3964 posted:I never want to actually know what they had to do to repair all the dents in my car (especially the ones in the rain gutters as well as the A and C pillars.) It would probably make me ill. Do those dent repair kits work, by the way? http://www.amazon.com/Simoniz-MPAD-...rds=dent+puller These things. I actually have some hail damage and so on, I've been meaning to get taken care of.
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Aug 14, 2012 18:22
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Warcabbit posted:Do those dent repair kits work, by the way?
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Aug 14, 2012 18:29
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My 2006 Impreza wagon looks like a golf ball on the hood and the roof due to freaking acorns from one windy night in West Mount Airy. Not going to help the trade-in value when the next-gen WRX hits the dealerships.
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Aug 14, 2012 21:20
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bolind posted:Anybody know if that's a steel or alu hood? There's always bondo! I agree though...a new hood would probably cost way less than the cost of man-hours to repair so many crater dents, repaint and clear coat. I wouldn't mind being the one to pick that car up at a discount.
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Aug 15, 2012 14:44
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Yummers posted:I wouldn't mind being the one to pick that car up at a discount. Funny, I was thinking the same thing yesterday. Use the money saved to throw in one of those turbos everybody keeps talking about. 
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Aug 15, 2012 14:47
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Yummers posted:There's always bondo! If you do pick it up, make sure to watch out for our falling freeway signs. Calgary's weather has been hosed lately.
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Aug 15, 2012 17:40
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Heard about that, hadn't seen it yet. Jesus. With a couple of big googly eyes that sign would have fit right in to one of those 30's cartoons where everything is bouncing around to the music.
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Aug 15, 2012 18:12
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PT6A posted:If you do pick it up, make sure to watch out for our falling freeway signs. Calgary's weather has been hosed lately. Wow, that road sign is poorly designed and engineered (if it was even designed and engineered at all). The HSS wall thickness should be much greater and the radius at the corner bend is too great. They should have used a 90 degree cjp corner miter and a corner brace to stiffen it up. That would have at least eliminated the vertical flex. Hey Canada, hire me to do your road signs and I'll give you a goon discount!
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Aug 15, 2012 19:39
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