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astrollinthepork posted:If I accelerate to try to build up boost, it will go about a 1/4 of the way into the white and let go with a woosh while letting me still accelerate with an extreme loss of power and hissing noise. If I let off the gas and give it another go anytime after that, it will go about an 8th into the white and hold steady with that same hissing noise. The power is still extremely low. If I stay out of boost, the car acts normal and I actually have more power. Definitely sounds like a boost leak. If you're dumping a lot of metered air out of the intake, that can cause your misfires. Just feel all your hoses and clamps for tears, holes, and looseness. Some of them are hard to reach from above, but you can feel them from under the car, or just take some things off the top and suddenly they're very accessible. Also check the end tanks of your intercooler, and if you see anything wrong with it, I have one I'll sell relatively cheap.
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Aug 8, 2012 16:03
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LloydDobler posted:Definitely sounds like a boost leak. If you're dumping a lot of metered air out of the intake, that can cause your misfires. Just feel all your hoses and clamps for tears, holes, and looseness. Some of them are hard to reach from above, but you can feel them from under the car, or just take some things off the top and suddenly they're very accessible. Also check the end tanks of your intercooler, and if you see anything wrong with it, I have one I'll sell relatively cheap.
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Aug 8, 2012 17:00
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Tell me about 850 T-5s! I'm thinking about taking a look at an automatic sedan version with about 140K miles on it for what seems to be a great price, $700. Says it needs minor work (no idea what that means, I guess I'll figure it out when I get there). What are some common things to look at on these things?
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Aug 8, 2012 17:22
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rscott posted:Tell me about 850 T-5s! I'm thinking about taking a look at an automatic sedan version with about 140K miles on it for what seems to be a great price, $700. Says it needs minor work (no idea what that means, I guess I'll figure it out when I get there). What are some common things to look at on these things? Here's a good thread on a volvo forum for repairs: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/8739-volvospeed-useful-threads-for-repairs/ This too: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/
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Aug 8, 2012 19:29
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Some rear end in a top hat crackhead smashed my driver's side mirror in traffic on the way to work today. Thanks you piece of poo poo.
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Aug 8, 2012 22:24
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mikerock posted:Some rear end in a top hat crackhead smashed my driver's side mirror in traffic on the way to work today. Thanks you piece of poo poo. Were you too close to his shopping cart, or what? Did you hit him? Did you stay in your car and call the cops? What exactly does one do in such a case? Waiting for this to derail into another 'if anyone touched my car' oneupmanship.
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Aug 8, 2012 22:39
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He was riding his bike and weaving in and out of traffic. I honked at him and he took exception to that. When he caught up to my car at a red light he smashed my mirror with his hand (which probably would have hurt him if he was not high) and rode off. I called the cops but they didn't catch him. There was no loving way I was getting out of my car with a crazy man riding around on a bike. I should have pulled over to call the cops right away but I went to my work 5 blocks away and called them from there.
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Aug 8, 2012 22:57
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ABS module blew today.... Guess I know what I'm doing this week...
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Aug 8, 2012 23:16
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I fiddled around with the mirror after work today and was able to get it back in place. It works as far as the controls to move it up/down/left/right are concerned. The plastic housing is cracked and scuffed in places and the mirror is spiderwebbed. At this point I am just going to find the parts and fix it up. I was worried I was going to have to replace the whole thing which after some recent vet bills was not welcome news but now it looks like just the mirror which is acceptable. Lesson learned: when the crazy guy with no teeth is riding his bike in your lane just let him go on his crazy way.
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Aug 9, 2012 07:30
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A project I will begin on soon: bringing my family's decripit 1984 240GL back to life. Working power steering would be a bonus.
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Aug 9, 2012 10:02
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mikerock posted:I fiddled around with the mirror after work today and was able to get it back in place. It works as far as the controls to move it up/down/left/right are concerned. The plastic housing is cracked and scuffed in places and the mirror is spiderwebbed. At this point I am just going to find the parts and fix it up. I was worried I was going to have to replace the whole thing which after some recent vet bills was not welcome news but now it looks like just the mirror which is acceptable. Lesson learned: when the crazy guy with no teeth is riding his bike in your lane just let him go on his crazy way. What color is your car again? I have a couple decent nautic blue mirrors from an S70 that I'd be willing to send to you. You have an 850 right?
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Aug 9, 2012 15:32
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LloydDobler posted:Definitely sounds like a boost leak. If you're dumping a lot of metered air out of the intake, that can cause your misfires. Just feel all your hoses and clamps for tears, holes, and looseness. Some of them are hard to reach from above, but you can feel them from under the car, or just take some things off the top and suddenly they're very accessible. Also check the end tanks of your intercooler, and if you see anything wrong with it, I have one I'll sell relatively cheap. I'm just worried because I can not get a turbo trouble code for the life of me. If this thing is having misfires unrelated to boost it's going to be compression and I'm not ready for that at alllll. It sounds like it's dumping the boost through the wastegate so I don't freaking know anymore. Seems like I should be getting a code for that. The hoses are good to go as I did the PCV system about 150 miles previous to this happening. Everything is routed correctly and clamped down tight. Well the vacuum hoses aren't route correctly but they are connected correctly! I've not seen anything too obvious during my cursory inspections but I'll make sure to look again. The plan is to put it up on jackstands and chocks and then have a buddy rev the piss out of until I see something. Consider the intercooler sold if the price is right either way because I'm getting a reman turbo soon. Speaking of which, where should I look for such a thing? Half of these turbocharger sites seem like a scam. Nobody knows what a Mitsubishi TD04-15G is either 
astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Aug 10, 2012 |
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Aug 9, 2012 18:42
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LloydDobler posted:What color is your car again? I have a couple decent nautic blue mirrors from an S70 that I'd be willing to send to you. You have an 850 right? I have a brown XC70 again because ... I have an addiction. I was able to fix most of it myself so I just need a new mirror. The plastic housing is a bit cracked and chipped but I can hold off on that for now. Thankfully no paint damage or dents on the door.
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Aug 9, 2012 22:43
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99 v70, srs light was an advisory on this year's test, will be a definite fail next year so I might as well fix it. Is the fix just a new srs module or is there a cheaper way?
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Aug 10, 2012 12:43
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$700 850 T-5 I looked at had electrical issues so I said no thanks.
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Aug 10, 2012 14:50
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Cakefool posted:99 v70, srs light was an advisory on this year's test, will be a definite fail next year so I might as well fix it. Is the fix just a new srs module or is there a cheaper way? No way to know without a test / code pull. It could be your contact reel in the steering wheel, those die sometimes. Especially if someone pulled the wheel for some reason and didn't know how to put it back together right.
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Aug 10, 2012 18:06
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Where would I get the hose that goes between the air filter and the MAF sensor on a 1984 240? It's currently a piece of corrugated aluminum tubing held on with wire.
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Aug 11, 2012 23:27
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atomicthumbs posted:Where would I get the hose that goes between the air filter and the MAF sensor on a 1984 240? It's currently a piece of corrugated aluminum tubing held on with wire. It's part number 1317032. Tasca Volvo (the dealership where I order most of my parts from) still lists it for around $11, but it might be easier to go down to the junkyard and grab it from any NA 240. As far as I know, they used the same part from '83 to '93.
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Aug 12, 2012 01:01
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Atomicthumbs-turns out I have a spare intake hose like you're talking about. If you'd rather not go down to the yards, I'd send it to you for the cost of shipping.
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Aug 12, 2012 20:57
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Went for a little drive today, just around town to test a driving music CD I made. The stereo in these cars is pretty drat phenomenal. That's not why I'm posting though. On the way back I went to pass a slower car and...no boost. My foot was in it, the transmission downshifted, the engine revved and the boost gauge went  . Barely made it into the white section, no power at all. I tried accelerating a few times, same result. Then five minutes later I decided to give it one more try and zang!, full boost, no hesitation or drop in pressure either, it worked fine for the rest of the drive back. I did a cursory inspection of the engine bay once I got home, didn't see any loose hoses or wires, so I'm assuming this means my CBV or TCV is on it's way out? The CEL isn't on and it seems to run fine otherwise.
Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Aug 13, 2012 |
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Aug 13, 2012 19:07
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Terrible Robot posted:Went for a little drive today, just around town to test a driving music CD I made. The stereo in these cars is pretty drat phenomenal. That's not why I'm posting though. Did you hear any farting/whooshing/hissing noises, as if the turbo was trying to spin up but couldn't build pressure? It sounds like you have a boost leak rather than a failing CBV. Check all of your pressure hoses for holes.
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Aug 13, 2012 19:12
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TheJeffers posted:Did you hear any farting/whooshing/hissing noises, as if the turbo was trying to spin up but couldn't build pressure? It sounds like you have a boost leak rather than a failing CBV. Check all of your pressure hoses for holes. I didn't notice any additional noises, even after turning off the stereo, but if it happens again I'll try to be extra attentive. Everything seems to check out right now, and I'm doing a full tune-up later this week (trying to get it to Stage 0) so I'll be sure to do a complete removal/inspection of all the pressure hoses.
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Aug 13, 2012 19:35
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240 update: removed the fuel pump relay, jumped it, pump runs (I can hear it from inside the car), car still doesn't start. It runs momentarily with starter fluid, so I don't think the problem's the ignition. Any ideas as to what could be keeping it from starting? I had to use pliers to pull the relay out of its socket since the relay terminals were corroded. When I took the cover off the fuel pump relay, it was completely rusted and covered in a coating of relay powder inside.  zundfolge posted:Atomicthumbs-turns out I have a spare intake hose like you're talking about. If you'd rather not go down to the yards, I'd send it to you for the cost of shipping. That would be totally awesome, since the closest junkyards are across the bay from me. Thank you!
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Aug 14, 2012 01:22
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There's a secret inline fuel pump back by the tank that can cause similar sounding issues on 240's. Have you checked that one yet?
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Aug 14, 2012 02:38
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Ether Frenzy posted:There's a secret inline fuel pump back by the tank that can cause similar sounding issues on 240's. Have you checked that one yet? I haven't checked to see if it's working, but I was thinking it might be broken because the normal pump was humming loudly. The websites I was looking at said the car would still work, but it would cause wear on the normal fuel pump. Maybe if the normal fuel pump is in bad enough condition it won't pump at all/enough.
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Aug 14, 2012 02:44
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Anybody here ever installed a turbo-timer in an 850, and if so how difficult is it and what would be a good one to look at buying? I've just been sitting in the car for a minute after driving but that's not always convenient. These are the two I'm thinking about right now; the HKS has a shitload of features but I doubt that I'd even use half of them so unless somebody has had negative experience with the APEXi model I'm probably going to go with that. APEXi Turbo Timer HKS Turbo Timer
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Aug 14, 2012 02:56
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If you don't already have keyless entry/security/remote start, you could just get an alarm that can also do the turbo timer thing. My top of the line DEI was like 129 bucks.
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Aug 14, 2012 03:13
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Thought about going that route but I've already got keyless entry/alarm, and remote start doesn't appeal to me enough to warrant the extra $80.
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Aug 14, 2012 03:21
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Regarding the OP and the XC90quote:The turbocharged 2.5l 5 cylinder is the same motor Volvo's put into tons of cars and, as such, is just about bulletproof. I'm looking at a 2005 XC90 for about $9000 with 85k miles on it from a dealer. It says the engine is: "2.5L turbocharged I5 engine w/intercooler" Which i guess is the same engine that the OP is talking about? Is this a good deal and is there anything problematic about these xc90 year/models that i should know about that isn't covered by the OP? Mister Fister fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Aug 14, 2012 |
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Aug 14, 2012 03:33
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Terrible Robot posted:Anybody here ever installed a turbo-timer in an 850, and if so how difficult is it and what would be a good one to look at buying? I've just been sitting in the car for a minute after driving but that's not always convenient. Do you run the car really hard and then park? If not, the convection cooling of the coolant passages is enough and you don't need a turbo timer. If you do, stop it. Just drive the car casually for the last 2 blocks before you park and you'll be fine. Turbo timers were useful before turbos were watercooled. Since then, not so much.
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Aug 14, 2012 06:02
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LloydDobler posted:Do you run the car really hard and then park? If not, the convection cooling of the coolant passages is enough and you don't need a turbo timer. If you do, stop it. Just drive the car casually for the last 2 blocks before you park and you'll be fine. Turbo timers were useful before turbos were watercooled. Since then, not so much. I do try to go easy on it for the last few minutes, but living in a very hilly area sometimes it's unavoidable. Mostly I'm interested because if I got it it would be as a gift from my dad, and knowing him he's not going to want to pay for maintenance items. It's always been a nightmare trying to get him to do serious maintenance to his and his wife's cars, but drat are they shiny and clean. Flashy poo poo cool, actually useful stuff bad with him. So I'm stuck asking about this instead of a PCV repair kit or a timing belt/water pump replacement. If there's any other things that could be considered kinda showy, but maybe a little useful I'd appreciate it.
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Aug 14, 2012 06:44
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atomicthumbs posted:240 update: removed the fuel pump relay, jumped it, pump runs (I can hear it from inside the car), car still doesn't start. It runs momentarily with starter fluid, so I don't think the problem's the ignition. Any ideas as to what could be keeping it from starting? Fuse hanging off the positive terminal of the battery? For whatever reason the 240's computer is powered from THAT, and the OEM fuseholders go to poo poo over time. Of course, I foolishly didn't check into it when my '88 stopped running one day, and replaced the fuel pump when all it needed was that fuse holder replaced (again).
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Aug 14, 2012 06:56
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IOwnCalculus posted:Fuse hanging off the positive terminal of the battery? For whatever reason the 240's computer is powered from THAT, and the OEM fuseholders go to poo poo over time. Fuse is fine and I cleaned off the blades, but I haven't cleaned inside the socket.
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Aug 14, 2012 07:16
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I just changed the oil, seafoamed the motor, and flushed teh tranny and changed the filter (goddamn that was a lot of bolts) then drove the 240 4 hours to go pick up my sisters from the airport and drop them off places. Everything went better than expected. She shifts a lot better now. The suspension is smooooth after changing those bushings and she doesn't smell like burning after idling for a while. Also, Richmond seemed to really like my new license plates: 
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Aug 14, 2012 19:14
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Anyone know where I can get a radiator for a '70 164 with manual transmission? Radiator shop wants north of $450 to recore mine.
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Aug 15, 2012 03:01
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EvellSnoats posted:Anyone know where I can get a radiator for a '70 164 with manual transmission? Radiator shop wants north of $450 to recore mine. I assume you mean online? Have you tried local salvage yards?
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Aug 15, 2012 03:33
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I've ordered the relay and am planning on getting a new transfer pump, but my dad wants to teach me to use a timing light before I do that because "the ignition timing might be off" (i.e. he hosed with it at some point) and "there's a whole range of distributor positions where it won't start". Argh!
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Aug 15, 2012 08:05
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atomicthumbs: If there's any old gas in your car's tank, make sure to siphon it out or drain it before you start replacing fuel system components. It's probably varnish at this point, and it will gum up the pump, filter, and injectors if too much of it gets run through the system. I can't remember if I mentioned this before, so I apologize if I'm repeating myself, but it'll make your life a lot easier. The Volvo "greenbook" (factory service manual) for your car's fuel injection system is available to download from this link. It's definitely worth having, not only because it's a valuable troubleshooting resource, but also because it explains the technical basis of the system.
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Aug 15, 2012 15:58
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Terrible Robot posted:If there's any other things that could be considered kinda showy, but maybe a little useful I'd appreciate it. An accurate boost gage or a wideband AF gauge would be more useful. Also a scan tool. All in about the same price range.
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Aug 15, 2012 16:55
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I assume you mean online? Have you tried local salvage yards? Old Volvos are rare as hell in the south. I have never seen a 164 or 144 other than mine in Mississippi.
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Aug 15, 2012 18:06
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