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wafflesnsegways posted:Does anyone here make charcuterie? I'm considering getting a fridge or chest freezer to make into a fermentation and meat drying chamber, since they both need roughly the same temperature ranges. It seems like that would work to me, but maybe I'm missing something? 
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Aug 18, 2012 19:12
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Just found a chest freezer in the basement of my new house that I can use for temperature control! No need to buy/modify a 3rd Sanyo mini fridge to fit a carboy. Has anyone here purchased a pre-made Kegerator setup? Even better, any Cleveland brewers in here that want to sell their kegerator?
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Aug 18, 2012 22:30
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Blistering Sunburn posted:I've got an imperial IPA coming out of dry hopping and into bottles today. It's been in secondary for 2.5 weeks after a 6 day primary, coming in at around 9.5%. Nah you will be fine. Unless your beer is 6+ months old there is still more than enough yeast in suspension to carbonate. It might take longer due to the high gravity but it should carb fine in the end.
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Aug 19, 2012 06:03
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Made NB's Sierra Nevada clone kit, I have an extra ounce of Amarillo hops just lying around; would this fit with the hop profile of the beer if I dry hopped with it? I think it called for 2 oz of Cascades at flameout, which I imagine would result in a pretty prominent nose. I don't know enough about hops to know if the Amarillo aroma would clash or compliment, or if the Amarillo would even be noticable. Also, any experiences with dry hopping and not using a secondary? I'm trying to get away from doing the secondary stage as I think it's largely useless but this is one of those cases where I may in fact need to rack it...
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Aug 19, 2012 18:35
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Anyone know what diameter bore you need for keg connection's 5 inch shanks? We are working on our keezer conversion and want to drill the collar now so we can stain it even though our parts aren't here yet.
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Aug 19, 2012 18:41
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Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure 7/8"? Or maybe that's the actual dimension of the shank. If so, 1". Do they not have dimensions on their site? You could always call them, they have pretty good customer service. e: They sell 15/16" hole saws on their site billed as the "perfect size for all our shanks," so there you go. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Aug 19, 2012 |
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Aug 19, 2012 20:36
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Awesome, thanks. The site didn't have the diameter and they were closed today when I called. I never would have thought to check that though.
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Aug 19, 2012 20:55
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Check kegconnection.com, they sell a hole saw that's appropriate, but I think 15/16" is right.
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Aug 19, 2012 21:43
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Does anyone have any good reference material comparing British ale yeasts? I've found a bunch of information on Belgian yeasts (including the excellent charts in Brew Like A Monk which list flavors produced for each yeast in different ranges of temperatures, suitable styles, and commercial examples), but am coming up dry when I search for similar resources about British yeasts. As fall approaches I'm thinking about all of the ESBs, brown ales, porters, and stouts I'm about to want to drink and am beginning to search for a "house" British yeast so I can make them all. Anyone here have any recommendations or experiences?
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Aug 19, 2012 22:15
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Use this comparison chart along with the websites of Wyeast and White Labs to make a choice. http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm
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Aug 19, 2012 22:20
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One metric (long) shitload of yeast information from our own rage-saq
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Aug 19, 2012 23:38
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Made a Belgian blonde last weekend. Belgian pils, sugar and WLP530/Wyeast3787, couldn't be simpler. Used Tett to bitter and a little Tett and an ounce of Saaz at flameout. BLAM reminded me after the fact that I should have aerated, made a starter, and skipped the protein rest, but oh well, next time. I just kegged a 1.40 brown ale (mild? I used mild malt) that I hit with the zest from 2 oranges and a grapefruit, also with 2 ounces of coriander at the end. Going for a chocolate and citrus combo. It smells amazing right now, we'll see how it works together in a few weeks. Gerblyn posted:One other thing that confused me was the guy saying 25 granules of yeast. That seemed like a really tiny amount to me, so I added a bunch more (around 1/8 teaspoon for a liter). Is "a granule" like a special measure or something, or do you really need such a tiny amount?
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Aug 20, 2012 17:49
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Looks like Hops Direct is starting their harvesting, so whole leaf hops should start popping up soon followed by pellets in November (if last year is any indication). Very exciting
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Aug 20, 2012 18:19
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I'm looking to do a starter for the Northern Brewer Black IPA extract kit. It has an OG of 1.075 and I'll be using US-05. The problem is that I don't have a stir plate. Will I need to adjust my starter to account for the fact that I'll only be doing manual stirring periodically?
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Aug 20, 2012 19:06
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WaterIsPoison posted:I'm looking to do a starter for the Northern Brewer Black IPA extract kit. It has an OG of 1.075 and I'll be using US-05. The problem is that I don't have a stir plate. Will I need to adjust my starter to account for the fact that I'll only be doing manual stirring periodically? You don't need a starter for dry yeast. If Mr. Malty suggests that its not enough yeast, you can just pitch a second pack or part of a second pack. Rehydrate it in boiled and cooled (or otherwise sterile) water prior to pitching.
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Aug 20, 2012 19:14
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I think even hydrating it in cooled boiled water is overkill, I always just do it with straight tap water.
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Aug 20, 2012 19:24
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RiggenBlaque posted:I think even hydrating it in cooled boiled water is overkill, I always just do it with straight tap water.  UNSANITARY!!!!
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Aug 20, 2012 19:39
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RiggenBlaque posted:I think even hydrating it in cooled boiled water is overkill, I always just do it with straight tap water. I use bottled water myself (of which I always have a bunch). It's just a CYA statement so he doesn't come back at me and say I infected his IPA 
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Aug 20, 2012 19:45
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Angry Grimace posted:You don't need a starter for dry yeast. If Mr. Malty suggests that its not enough yeast, you can just pitch a second pack or part of a second pack. Rehydrate it in boiled and cooled (or otherwise sterile) water prior to pitching. pish-posh pitching it dry is for the true heroes!
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Aug 20, 2012 19:49
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WaterIsPoison posted:I'm looking to do a starter for the Northern Brewer Black IPA extract kit. It has an OG of 1.075 and I'll be using US-05. The problem is that I don't have a stir plate. Will I need to adjust my starter to account for the fact that I'll only be doing manual stirring periodically? To actually answer your question you will be fine without a stirplate, make sure to aerate your starter plenty before pitching since it's usually harder to aerate well when the yeast is set.
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Aug 20, 2012 19:53
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Thanks all, I'll probably just pick up another pack at my local homebrew store.
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Aug 20, 2012 20:13
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Blistering Sunburn posted:I've got an imperial IPA coming out of dry hopping and into bottles today. It's been in secondary for 2.5 weeks after a 6 day primary, coming in at around 9.5%. This is pretty much 100% the same situation I was in (down to the exact same ABV!), and it took quite a long time to carbonate. I got so paranoid when three weeks went by with zero carbonation whatsoever that I opened up each bottle to reyeast it with rehydrated US-05 and recap. It only recently carbonated after five weeks in the bottle. Concerning your beer, there should still be a good amount of yeast remaining in solution right now, but it's probably pretty tired. I'd recommend reyeasting the bottling bucket with a small amount of new/rehydrated yeast just to cover your rear end, and to be able to drink your beer faster. 
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Aug 20, 2012 20:51
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WaterIsPoison posted:Thanks all, I'll probably just pick up another pack at my local homebrew store.
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Aug 20, 2012 21:02
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Yergh. Fusel hangovers are really bad. On the brighter side, all the bottles are now ready to be washed and used for my porter. Bottled it this evening and it ended up quite nicely balanced. Also a bit boozy with a hefty 8% ABV, but this time I accounted for it. 7% caramalt, 7% chocolate, 14% munich and 70% maris otter pale. Hopped with EKG to an IBU of 45. Ended at my desired FG of 1.023 and the sweetness works well with the alcohol taste and hopping. Nice motivation after having a bit off first brew.
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Aug 20, 2012 22:02
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WaterIsPoison posted:I'm looking to do a starter for the Northern Brewer Black IPA extract kit. It has an OG of 1.075 and I'll be using US-05. The problem is that I don't have a stir plate. Will I need to adjust my starter to account for the fact that I'll only be doing manual stirring periodically? You're in for a treat, that kit is 
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Aug 21, 2012 02:10
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So I've had a smack pack sitting in my fridge for a while with a manufacture date of 03/12. I'm thinking of doing a 2L starter tonight and then a 4L starter on Thursday. According to Mr. Malty I'd have to have 2 packs in order to get enough yeast, but I should be able to use the slurry portion of the calculator to judge if I've grown enough, right? If after the 4L starter I don't have enough slurry do I just make another 4L or 5L and pitch again? Prefect Six fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Aug 21, 2012 |
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Aug 21, 2012 13:50
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Prefect Six posted:So I've had a smack pack sitting in my fridge for a while with a manufacture date of 03/10. I'm thinking of doing a 2L starter tonight and then a 4L starter on Thursday. If it's for a 5gal batch I think a 2L starter is sufficient, you may have to let it go for longer than 24 hours if the smack pack is really that old. Keep an eye/nose on it, who knows what could have happened to the yeast over 2+ years.
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Aug 21, 2012 15:56
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If it's that old, you might want to go more like 250ml -> 1L -> 4L. My understanding is that dumping barely-alive yeast into a huge starter right off the bat just overwhelms it and you don't get healthy growth.
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Aug 21, 2012 16:05
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Sorry, I totally typo'd the date, it should have read March 2012!
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Aug 21, 2012 16:12
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You should be more than fine then!
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Aug 21, 2012 16:24
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Finally gonna have my kegerator/fermentation fridge done this weekend. Expect some pics, it's gonna be pretty nice looking. But, more importantly, I'm doing that double decoction hefe that everyone raves about from this thread. Anyone have a suggested fermentation temperature? I know I probably want to skew warm and I'm using the weihenstephan yeast from wyeast. I want to be pretty balanced but probably skewed toward more clove/phenol then esters. I'm thinking 68 degrees? :edit: Oh, and since it's also our kegerator, after the primary ferment is done in a day or two, would it be ok to drop the temperature a little closer to serving levels, or is this a yeast that will go dormant if we go down to, say 62, after the major work is done?
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Aug 21, 2012 16:47
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My understanding for less esters is a lower temperature. I believe 62-64 is the hive mind recommended range for Hefe yeasts to not produce much banana runt bubble gum esters. I know its not what either White Labs or Wyeast recommend. I generally shoot for that range when making hefes myself and get great results.
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Aug 21, 2012 16:52
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A while back I made a 10 gallon batch of Berliner Weisse with WLP630. It's been at least 3 months and I finally kegged and tapped the second 5 gallon portion, which is incredibly more tart and sour than the first 5 gallon batch. The difference is night and day. This yeast really needs time to sour things up. That said: this yeast produces sulfur like that's its primary job. Yuck. Plus it has a Hefeweizen yeast so it can get inappropriately fruity if you're not careful. I'd recommend just using a straight lacto culture and something like a European ale yeast. Tried making some Woodruff syrup for the Berliner with the dried stuff from the LHBS. Just steeped an ounce in half a gallon of 2:1 syrup. WAY too thick and next to no Woodruff character. Going to use 1:1 syrup next time and boil the herb with the syrup to see if that helps.
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Aug 21, 2012 17:16
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Finally gonna have my kegerator/fermentation fridge done this weekend. Expect some pics, it's gonna be pretty nice looking.
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Aug 21, 2012 18:10
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I am brewing a dunkelweizen this week (or maybe weekend if I get lazy). Just a 3gallon batch with some wheat dme, wheat malt, munich, and chocolate wheat. Now my question is more for the DME, I hear you can add it in later in the boil. Why would or should I do that?
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Aug 21, 2012 18:32
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ChiTownEddie posted:I am brewing a dunkelweizen this week (or maybe weekend if I get lazy). Just a 3gallon batch with some wheat dme, wheat malt, munich, and chocolate wheat. It's to keep the color lighter. The longer you boil extract (liquid or dry) the darker it will get. For a dunkelweizen it probably doesn't matter since it's supposed to be dark anyway. Another possible benefit is less scorching and caramelization of the sugars.
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Aug 21, 2012 18:47
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Kaiho posted:You should be more than fine then! Wow my post was so wrong and lacking in information. It's an estimated 1.062 OG dubbel recipie. You guys think the yeast is plenty viable 6-7 months from it's package date? It has been in the fridge since I received it. I guess the only way to know for sure is to make a starter and see what it smells like/what kind of slurry it produces after 24 hours + 24 hours in the fridge.
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Aug 21, 2012 18:57
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Daedalus Esquire posted:But, more importantly, I'm doing that double decoction hefe that everyone raves about from this thread. Anyone have a suggested fermentation temperature? I know I probably want to skew warm and I'm using the weihenstephan yeast from wyeast. I want to be pretty balanced but probably skewed toward more clove/phenol then esters. I'm thinking 68 degrees? It's going to vary by yeast strain but if you want cloves I would go no higher than 64 for the entire ferment. The suggestions of 62 are probably even better.
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Aug 21, 2012 21:03
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My wheat ale has been sitting on 5 lbs of apricot puree I made for about 8 days now. I was expecting a quicker secondary fermentation than this but I've also never used fresh fruit in a brew before so I guess anything goes - it took about 2 days to really get going and then got pretty violent (even sending some puree up the airlock). It's calmed down now, the foam has disappeared, and the airlock is bubbling once ever 30-40 seconds. About when can I expect this to be ready for bottling?
JawKnee fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Aug 22, 2012 |
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Aug 22, 2012 00:59
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I've just been given quite a few jars of what was supposed to be strawberry jam but ended up being more of a light syrup. I got a little bit of it over summer when the person who made it was still trying to save it, but she gave up and just gave me the rest. When I had the small amount before, I decided to try putting a few spoonfuls in the bottom of a glass before pouring my German Wheat and it turned out excellent. I know adding it pre-fermentation won't carry through any flavors, but is there anything useful I can do with it anywhere before bottling? If not, any suggestions on other styles which might mix well with it in the same way as the wheat did? The wheat's a favorite of my roommate and I, so that's of course being brewed again, but for me a lot of the fun of brewing is screwing around and doing new things so I'm up for trying pretty much anything my equipment allows.
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Aug 22, 2012 01:33
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