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Just started to see what was available nearby in XT, how's this one look? http://www.cars.com/go/search/detai...onal&listType=1
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# ? May 13, 2024 04:08 |
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Looks clean and the miles are very low for an '06. Go check it out and see how it drives. Major service intervals are 30K, so nothing is due yet, but ask for evidence that the oil was changed regularly. The oil change interval may have still been 7.5K that year, but closer to 3-4K is recommended for the 2.5L turbo engines (I believe Subaru eventually dropped the interval to 3.75K). If you're serious about buying it, have a leakdown or compression test performed first. Also, there was no AUX in on the stereo until '07, and the stereo is integrated on the same circuit board as the climate control so you can't really replace it. Only options for an AUX in is either connecting an adapter inside the stereo that piggy backs the AUX audio onto the CD players signal, then play your AUX device over a CD that is filled entirely with silent audio, OR another option which doesn't require a silent CD, but does require soldering.
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Amandyke posted:What makes you think you need upgraded cooling? Are you going to turn this into a race car? I make that much power on my 03 wrx and have zero issues with a completely stock cooling system. I've never seen my temperature gauge go above what is the normal operating temperature even when flogging the car on a hot day. Do you have a real gauge or an idiot light? My oil temps can get scary hot and the water gauge is saying no problem. Admittedly, the answer is more oil cooling, but heat is an issue, at least in the 2.5 turbos. Hillridge posted:Just started to see what was available nearby in XT, how's this one look?
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raffie posted:After trading in my MY08 WRX for a Kia Optima ![]() Why would you do this? Hillridge posted:Just started to see what was available nearby in XT, how's this one look? Only 26k miles on a 2006? That's pretty awesome.
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War Bunny posted:
The wrx was registered under a limited-use vehicle scheme that we have (nights and weekends only, pay extra to drive it during weekdays) and a career change meant i needed a daily driver with decent space for passengers and better fuel economy. The Kia was just launched, was reasonably priced for the specs and looked way better than the other choices (accord/camry/i45), so i went for it. It was not a bad car, just kind of bland to drive.
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The car was originally sold by this dealer and had all the maintenance done there too, so it should be good. I'll ask about testing it though. What's a good starting price for haggling?
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Hillridge posted:The car was originally sold by this dealer and had all the maintenance done there too, so it should be good. I'll ask about testing it though. What's a good starting price for haggling? Trade in price + 10%
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hmm, looks like that's about where they have it priced already. Should I just offer less and see what happens? I'm terrible at negotiating ![]() I drove it today and it's in great shape. A bit tighter on legroom than my old XC70 (I'm 6'4), but I loved the way it handled.
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If you're bad at negotiating on price maybe get them to throw things in at the existing price.
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If anyone has one of the newer gen turbo cars, see this thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2381813 I replaced my OEM plugs recently at 25k with new NGKs and the difference has been huge. Subaru must really be doing some huge cost cutting these days. I also put smurf blood in the transmission and diff, but I still get some brief resistance going into 3rd gear quickly. Hope my synchro isn't on the way out.
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Can anyone confirm what the gently caress gearbox with code TY754VB1CA has as a front diff? I get conflicting answers wit online gearbox codes.
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Subaru Parts Warehouse is having a sale.![]()
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Cat Terrist posted:Can anyone confirm what the gently caress gearbox with code TY754VB1CA has as a front diff? I get conflicting answers wit online gearbox codes. according to this: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2173258 It's a ~99 RA box with an open front diff (on page 4 near the top).
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I'm going to tackle the brakes on my 99 RS next. I'm pretty sure that there is at least one stuck caliper. Any tips or tricks I should be aware of? I'm thinking that I can just swap the calipers from the 98 in for the bad ones on the 99.
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If you're bad at negotiating on price maybe get them to throw things in at the existing price. I'm just going to look for some comparable ones and base an offer on that, which is kind of tough since there aren't many XTs in the area, and none with crazy low miles like this one. It has racks on it already, but nothing mounted to them, so I do plan on getting them to throw in a couple bike carriers. Might also use an extended warranty as part of negotiations. They said they could do a compression test for me, and I don't expect it to be bad with only 26k on it, but is there any way to verify they give me accurate results?
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Hillridge posted:I'm just going to look for some comparable ones and base an offer on that, which is kind of tough since there aren't many XTs in the area, and none with crazy low miles like this one. It has racks on it already, but nothing mounted to them, so I do plan on getting them to throw in a couple bike carriers. Might also use an extended warranty as part of negotiations. They said they could do a compression test for me, and I don't expect it to be bad with only 26k on it, but is there any way to verify they give me accurate results? Be there when they do the test. If you don't trust them to perform a test and give you accurate results, I'd be wary of buying from them. But honestly go off of the trade in value (the high one if it looks good), unless there's some kind of fantastic reason to pay more dealers will only ever offer the KBB trade-in value on a car. And the faster they can get it off the lot the less money they lose on it from insurance etc.
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Totally TWISTED posted:Subaru Parts Warehouse is having a sale. I picked up a nearly identical collapsible cargo box thing at Harbor Freight for $10.
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So who at Exedy thought it would be a good idea to use a million pound pressure plate on a stage one clutch rated for like 300tq?
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First spy shots of the '14 WRX hit the webs: http://www.autoblog.com/2012/08/24/2014-subaru-wrx-caught-hot-weather-testing-in-the-states/ The BRZ was testing in an Impreza chassis for a while, so I don't take the thing running in a current Impreza chassis as a bad thing - the radical exterior still could be on the way. I'm just hoping this is the WRX we're seeing and not the STI, because that's definitely a 6spd pattern on that BRZ-stolen shift knob. At this point if the WRX is anything other than the 2.0 FA DIT with a 6spd I think it'd be a surprise. I can't imagine with fuel economy wars being as important as HP wars nowadays they'd go yet another generation with the 5spd. There's plenty of room to give the STI the traditional fancy diffs and an extra 100hp above the WRX.
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It might even be a completely different chassis, if they're just testing the powertrain and need something to shove it in for the meantime. The BRZ mules looked pretty rough too. Here's hoping they don't use the Legacy 6-speed.
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jamal posted:according to this: The problem is that the box elsewhere is listed with a helical. I have no idea who to believe. quote:First spy shots of the '14 WRX hit the webs: http://www.autoblog.com/2012/08/24/...-in-the-states/ gently caress ![]()
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Cat Terrist posted:gently caress Agreed. Hopefully that's just a tech mule like SSS said, and the full shebang is still in the works. Did they just throw out the idea of separating the WRX/STi from the Impreza and making it a two-door? I haven't heard much about that lately.
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blargle posted:If anyone has one of the newer gen turbo cars, see this thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2381813
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:First spy shots of the '14 WRX hit the webs: http://www.autoblog.com/2012/08/24/2014-subaru-wrx-caught-hot-weather-testing-in-the-states/ That has to be a mule.
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Amandyke posted:Be there when they do the test. If you don't trust them to perform a test and give you accurate results, I'd be wary of buying from them. But honestly go off of the trade in value (the high one if it looks good), unless there's some kind of fantastic reason to pay more dealers will only ever offer the KBB trade-in value on a car. And the faster they can get it off the lot the less money they lose on it from insurance etc. ![]() NADA clean trade in value is $15,875, so + 10% would be $17,462. NADA retail is $18,775, they have it priced at $18,395 ($19,485 on the window). I spoke to the sales guy again to try and discuss prices and he said that the internet price is already set to move them quickly and to avoid the usual back and forth negotiation nonsense. Best I could get is probably a couple hundred knocked off, maybe down to $18k flat if I'm lucky. Car gurus lists it as a fair deal, a few hundred below market value, and while I don't think it's a steal, I don't think I'd be getting screwed at $18k either. I found a few other XT Limiteds with better prices, including a fully loaded 2008 (this is a 2006), but nothing close to as few miles. In your opinion is it worth paying a little more for a 2006 with 26k miles than a slightly more loaded 2008 with 90k?
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No, I replaced with NGK LFR6AIX-11, which are technically equivalent but much higher quality than whatever was in the car.DrChu posted:Did you go with the OEM plug again, or a different NGK model? My 2010 WRX is pushing 44K and I've been having some low RPM weirdness lately so this may be worth looking into.
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The Jabberwocky posted:Agreed. Hopefully that's just a tech mule like SSS said, and the full shebang is still in the works. Did they just throw out the idea of separating the WRX/STi from the Impreza and making it a two-door? I haven't heard much about that lately. I hope so too, but none of the comments give me much hope. I'm not interested in a two-door WRX at this point in my life, so I hope that's not the path they go down. raffie posted:The wrx was registered under a limited-use vehicle scheme that we have (nights and weekends only, pay extra to drive it during weekdays) and a career change meant i needed a daily driver with decent space for passengers and better fuel economy. The Kia was just launched, was reasonably priced for the specs and looked way better than the other choices (accord/camry/i45), so i went for it. It was not a bad car, just kind of bland to drive. Ah, that makes sense. ![]()
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Well I made the switch to Rotella T6 in the STi today. I also took out the cabin filter to replace it but the auto parts store didn't have one in stock so I will have to install the new one tomorrow when it comes in. I also ordered a Blackstone test kit so I can see how well the Rotella is doing in a few thousand miles.
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The Jabberwocky posted:Agreed. Hopefully that's just a tech mule like SSS said, and the full shebang is still in the works. Did they just throw out the idea of separating the WRX/STi from the Impreza and making it a two-door? I haven't heard much about that lately. They're definitely not making it a two-door. The last rumor was that the ATC was the WRX preview. And even if they were to just put a 275ish hp FA based turbo, a six speed, and all the suspension goodies from the current WRX into a brand new Impreza that wouldn't be a bad car - the new Impreza is 300 lbs less than the 2012 WRX.
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Hillridge posted:
Yes totally worth getting the low mileage 06. I'd offer $18k and settle for whatever midway number they gave you. They make their 10% you get to feel like you talked them down.
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:They're definitely not making it a two-door. The last rumor was that the ATC was the WRX preview. Yeah, I kinda figured that but I hadn't heard it for sure yet. It got my hopes up for a bit that they might be considering WRC again, but oh well. The new Impreza is a good car, by all accounts. I've driven my mom's and it was plenty ok, so I'm sure it would just get better in WRX trim. I just hate to see Subaru abandon all pretense of motorsport. Plus they haven't had a chance to style a coupe in a while, and it would have been interesting to see if they picked anything up from the BRZ there.
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Probably no one really cares too much, but I finally got my SPT cat back replaced by Subaru on my 2011 STi. It had been contacting the sway bar at rest, and definitely during driving. The dealer ordered a new STi SPT exhaust, which they claim is different from the WRX SPT wagon exhaust. They said they laid them both down and there is a slight difference in the bends before the muffler. I didn't see them side by side, but I think there is no difference (based only on what I can see) except that the original one was poorly manufactured, which Jamal indicated was possible before. I'm only posting this here because on another forum there are a couple threads floating around about this, so I know I'm not the only one and therefore I am putting my experiences here on the off chance someone benefits. Also, for what its worth, this exhaust is less "boomy" when I left off the throttle. Technical jargon, I know, but there is it. A picture of the exhaust and sway bar with a seemingly acceptable 3/8 - 1/2 inch between them: ![]()
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Splinter posted:Also, there was no AUX in on the stereo until '07, and the stereo is integrated on the same circuit board as the climate control so you can't really replace it. Only options for an AUX in is either connecting an adapter inside the stereo that piggy backs the AUX audio onto the CD players signal, then play your AUX device over a CD that is filled entirely with silent audio, OR another option which doesn't require a silent CD, but does require soldering. I've been looking into this. Are there any climate controls from other years/models that would fit? From what I understand, it's just the 6 CD changer that's integrated with the climate controls, so could I possibly find a climate control module that will fit and swap it in? I could go the blank CD hack route too if I have to, but I'd also see what I need to do to separate them. They probably share some power supplies and such, but I'm thinking I may be able to remove the climate control with a bit of surgery and maybe building a new cage for it (I do a lot of electronics work).
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So, I've noticed this: in my '12 Outback, I have a display on the dash that tells me what gear I'm in. Neat, right? Well, in forward gears, it tells me what gear I'm in only after I've let off the clutch. In reverse, it displays R immediately upon being placed into Reverse, before I've come off the clutch? This bothers me for irrational reasons. Any idea why this is or if it's changeable?
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Safety Dance posted:So, I've noticed this: in my '12 Outback, I have a display on the dash that tells me what gear I'm in. Neat, right? Well, in forward gears, it tells me what gear I'm in only after I've let off the clutch. In reverse, it displays R immediately upon being placed into Reverse, before I've come off the clutch? This bothers me for irrational reasons. Any idea why this is or if it's changeable? For the forward gears, I'm not sure (but assume that) the car is simply taking the RPM and observed road speed and inferring what gear you're in. The 32bit ECUs actually expose an "assumed gear" entry in the observable properties when datalogging so I'm guessing they're using this mechanism.
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Well now that's just double obnoxious, although short of regearing the final drive, there's really no way to break that system.
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To be honest I'm surprised they made a manual transmission car that displays what gear you're in at all (being as, you know, that's what the lever is for). That kind of pointless kitsch is usually the province of Mazda.
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It's one of those feel good features that would be useful for teaching my girlfriend to drive stick if it worked with the clutch out. It was okay for the first week I owned the car -- I'd get on the Interstate, feel like the revs are unusually high, glance at the indicator, and say, "Oh, I guess I have another gear."
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Ok I need a little help here. I got the Cold Air box installed and flashed Stage 1SF91 v310Boost Select. The car runs (and sounds nice) but I'm not sure I did the ECU correctly. Which map does that replace, the I, Sport or Sport#? Or none. I'm not sure I'm getting the extra power I thought I would be getting. I took it for a test spin on Sport#. Any help would be welcomed. fake edit: I dloaded the launch control and flat foot mod as well but the AP didn't recognize it as a map. Could maybe use some help here too.
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# ? May 13, 2024 04:08 |
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It's the same map for all the different sport settings. The dial only changes the throttle response. For the launch control/ffs there should be some more settings for it to turn it on and change the rpms for it. Also, did you install the accessport manager? I like to do that, make sure the ap and maps are the latest version, and then take all the maps you won't be using off the AP.
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