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Horse Divorce posted:Stroking is done, I believe, by changing out the crankshaft and/or piston rod to give it farther travel on the down stroke. Also, you generally need a new crank for large increases in stroke, and it's the "proper" way to do it, but there is another method whereby you grind down the journals such that you offset their centreline and use smaller bearings, and that nets you a small increase in stroke. I'd say it's not really worth it, but if you're in a racing series that says you must use a certain crank, and doesn't say you can't regrind it, a few extra cc could be what you want. Similarly, you can eke out more room for over-boring by offsetting the centres of the cylinders when you do so, to avoid making the block too thin between them - the VW VR6 design is this taken to an extreme level. If you ever see someone take a classic Mini out to 1380cc (one of the common sizes, and pretty close to the ultimate limit for the engine), it'll likely use offset bores.
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Aug 24, 2012 17:56
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Kastein - I asked about a squeak in my front wheels previously and you said if it's not the brakes it's probably the u-joints. I changed out the pads in the front and I'm still getting the same squeak with every rotation. Is there a good way to tell for sure if it's the u-joints, or do I just need to replace them and then I'll know if they were guilty?
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Aug 24, 2012 18:06
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Motor Swap update: Kastein will probably want to be more specific... or maybe not. Here are the highlights from the past 2 days.  Friday pulling into ACEofSnett's garage.  New 4.0L motor from a 94 cherokee.  bye bye auto trans!  Engine bay starting to clear out a bit.   4.2L motor has been sucessfully goon-swapped.  Empty bay. Look at that nice scorch mark where I used to have a sweet exhaust leak.  Oh there's my new chryco 8.25 rear end.  off to pull some crap from junked cars.  And this is why I'm using cherokees as donors    Engine paint was on sale so I grabbed some and cleaned up the inside of the engine bay quickly. I never did get a photo of the new pile of extra parts that came out of my YJ. Oh well. Maybe next time. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Aug 25, 2012 |
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Aug 25, 2012 05:27
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Godholio posted:Increasing the stroke (distance the piston moves up and down) to increase power. A crank that moves it a little more, usually longer connecting rods as well. It increases cubic inches without having to do machine work (shaving the cylinders to increase bore size). A Chevy 383 is a 350 that's been stroked, for example. You typically have to use shorter connecting rods with a bigger crankshaft. You want the top of the stroke to stop at the same place (unless you did some crazy head/valve work but if you did then you know the exceptions already), but go further down into the cylinder.
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Aug 25, 2012 05:40
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commissargribb posted:
Its... beautiful! The jys around here have no xj's to pick from. God, i'd give anything to run through those for a while. Where is this? What State?
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Aug 25, 2012 07:13
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EightBit posted:You typically have to use shorter connecting rods with a bigger crankshaft. You want the top of the stroke to stop at the same place (unless you did some crazy head/valve work but if you did then you know the exceptions already), but go further down into the cylinder. poo poo you're right. Bad time to get it backwards.
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Aug 25, 2012 07:13
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This is probably the worst thread to ask this in but is there a Land Cruiser thread? Please don't kill me 
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Aug 25, 2012 07:36
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jdfording posted:This is probably the worst thread to ask this in but is there a Land Cruiser thread? Please don't kill me There was one, but the cost of constantly fixing it drove it to the gas chamber. I kid, of course.
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Aug 25, 2012 07:46
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Godholio posted:poo poo you're right. Bad time to get it backwards.
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Aug 25, 2012 14:56
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Horse Divorce posted:Its... beautiful! The jys around here have no xj's to pick from. God, i'd give anything to run through those for a while. Sam's Pull-A-Part Worcester, MA
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Aug 25, 2012 15:07
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InitialDave posted:You didn't, not entirely: While modifying an engine with a longer stroke may force you to use shorter rods, the better description from an engineering perspective is longer ones can have advantages, but then so can short ones... It's a balancing act of things like piston speed at different parts of the stroke, angular force on gudgeon pins, your valve timing and so on. Fair enough, SBCs are pretty much the only engines I've read into this about, and they use a shorter rod for a stroker. Either way I didn't type what I intended, but it's nice to know I lucked out and was half-right.
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Aug 25, 2012 15:29
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 Made some new ground wires.
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Aug 25, 2012 18:12
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I picked up the Smittybilt side steps for my 12 JK, hopefully should be getting them in about a week or so. After that I haven't a clue, I'd like to replace the bumpers however for some reason I'd like to keep the stock fog lights and don't know why.
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Aug 25, 2012 21:55
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A wild and regal Kastein has been spotted. commissargribb posted:Sam's Pull-A-Part Worcester, MA I was also at 128 auto in waltham and they had a row of cherokees. These things love to fill new england bone yards.
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Aug 25, 2012 23:30
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Ace is trying to kill it with his eyes while thinking "oh loving christ, why did I get myself into this project."
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Aug 25, 2012 23:42
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After replacing the CPS, followed by a day of throwing codes, my 1999 XJ seems to be running better than ever...I think that sounds crazy but it is shifting smoother and I haven't heard the loud clunk and jolt when shifting into drive in awhile. Does the CPS have anything to do with any of this or is it placebo effect? I also thought my fuel pump was going bad due to hard starts, but it starts instantly every time now. That sorta makes sense though...
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Aug 26, 2012 19:29
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poo poo, I got way behind on this thread.Horse Divorce posted:Hey kastein, I've got a 92 xj 4.0 that drives warm, just like all the others. I put a new radiator in myself early this year, but that didn't solve the problem. Last months, I had a local shop do a coolant flush. They're saying that the flush isn't going to solve the problem. A good flush can definitely fix it, but the problem is, by the time you use harsh enough chemicals to dissolve all the crap, you're going to be eating up your water pump, heater core, hoses, radiator, and possibly freeze plugs at the same time. Honestly, having never done this, I'm not sure what my approach would be, but I'd likely pull the water pump, disconnect all coolant hoses from the motor, pull the thermostat, and take a look inside. If it looks horribly gross, throw in a sacrificial set of freeze plugs and water pump (an old worn out one is fine), reinstall the thermostat housing with a 50c gasket and some shellac, block the pump outlet off, fill that fucker with the most hardcore radiator flush you can find, wait a while, then drain it and see what came out with it. Flush it out with a hose then do it again if needed. Once you're done, replace all the freeze plugs you can get to (the driver side has like 5-6, the back of the block has one but you have to drop the trans to get at it) and put it all back together. If you have to do the driver side freeze plugs, you will need to pull the manifolds to get to them, buy a felpro manifold gasket for $7 and a new exhaust donut gasket, if you live in the rust belt expect to have to dremel the exhaust manifold collector studs and punch them out, then replace with through bolts. Honestly, if it's staying under 220 or so, I would throw a new thermostat (stant 195 degree superstat ONLY, there are a lot of poo poo thermostats on the market), flush the radiator again, fill it up with good coolant and see what happens. Also put a temp gauge of some sort on your trans cooler line if you have an auto. I had what I thought was an overheating problem on my 96 XJ for a while, but it turned out to be the first sign of the abused AW4 slipping and self clearancing a lot of important internal components. Replaced it and my engine went from hitting the red zone on the highway to running at 210 degrees no matter what I did to it. An overhaul on a 4.0 will cost you a few hundred bucks (I am going to estimate around 500-800 in parts) if you do it yourself, but will easily cost at least 1500-2500 if you have a shop do it. Astonishing Wang posted:Kastein - I asked about a squeak in my front wheels previously and you said if it's not the brakes it's probably the u-joints. I changed out the pads in the front and I'm still getting the same squeak with every rotation. Is there a good way to tell for sure if it's the u-joints, or do I just need to replace them and then I'll know if they were guilty? Turn the wheels to about a 20 degree angle, put the frontend on jackstands, and spin the tires by hand while watching/listening to the ujoint. You should hear a squeak most likely. As for sandbagger - I am finally caught up on sleep (I think) from the wrenching and driving marathon. Parts list for the swap and donors: 99 XJ is donating: * NP231 (it's getting an SYE, so late vs early model tailcone does not matter) * 29 spline 8.25 94 XJ is donating: * engine and 99% of the things attached to it (wiring harness carcass, ECU, manifolds, accessories, etc) * front driveshaft (we swiped front driveshafts off a few random 4.0/auto XJs since they're basically all the same length and will be cut down anyways) * throttle cable (hopefully, we pulled it since it was cheap, it looks like it'll fit) * fuel pump (will need to customize the fuel tank sender to accept it, as the 87 YJ has either no lift pump or a low pressure electric lift pump, with a mechanical pump on the engine) * other stuff I'm sure I am forgetting 96 XJ is probably donating: * AX15 * hopefully AX15 to trans mount adapter plate, pressure plate, clutch fork, and clutch disc * hopefully the pigtail for the reverse lights on the wiring harness 95 ZJ w/ 4.0 donated: * water pump and pulley (to allow the factory mechanical clutch fan from the YJ to mount to the XJ 4.0 with standard XJ serpentine belt and routing) 91-95 YJ donated: * pedal box, pedals, brackets, brake light switch, brake light switch connector etc - ideally would have used a RENIX era one, the clutch master cylinder and brake booster mounting and pushrod setups are somewhat different which required some work to line things up. Stuff being bought brand new: * SYE (I had one around that I don't need because my plans changed, paid 160, selling for 160, probably the best full SYE kit price around without having an "in" at a 4x4 shop) * spring under axle perches for an 8.25" (3" axle tube diameter) http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SU-PERCH.html * 4 U-bolts for 8.25" (3") http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/UB3.html * spring plates - we should be able to reuse the stock ones after opening the holes out a bit. If not, I have 1/2" steel flat stock and a drill press  * 94 XJ CPS (neither of us felt like crawling under a junkyard XJ long enough to pull a used and possibly broken CPS to save a few bucks) * possibly clutch disc and pressure plate plus pressure plate bolts * FC69907 pilot bearing * 91-95 YJ pre-bled clutch master and slave set * new battery terminals and likely cable as well (may be able to reuse old cables with new terminals) * 96 and earlier XJ fuel filter * ~92-93 and later XJ oil filter (VO45 filter rather than the older VO33 filter used on the earlier filter base) * transmission mount - may need to do some custom work here to make things line up * exhaust pipe stuff - won't know what exactly we need till the engine is in place * likely some steel fuel line * 195 degree Stant thermostat + gasket * 94 XJ valve cover gasket * CJ7 coolant temp and oil pressure senders (to match resistance gradient with the CJ7 gauges and dash already installed) * new snap ring for the clutch pedal because some retard let it fall on the floor and it's somewhere in a massive pile of speedi-dry now * 95 YJ power steering pressure hose I think that's about it. Most of that is already on hand, or lined up. The end result should be an 87 YJ with a high output 4.0L engine, OBD-1, a CJ dash cluster with all gauges functional, an external slave 5 speed manual transmission, an 8.25" rearend, and an SYE'd NP231 transfer case. ninja edit: went wheeling with Ace and ghawk Saturday. I drove the MJ, Ace drove the red turd XJ because his truck is down right now. I told him to try and break the drat thing or at least get it stuck and he didn't manage to...  This trail hasn't been driven in quite some time. The recent storms weren't kind to it, we had to drag a lot of limbs out of the way, or simply push them out of the way in this case. kastein fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Aug 27, 2012 |
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Aug 27, 2012 20:54
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kastein posted:poo poo, I got way behind on this thread. Now you have to teach commisargribbs to break sandbagger.
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Aug 27, 2012 21:28
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kastein posted:poo poo, I got way behind on this thread. holy poo poo, 1500 for a shop to do an overhaul! drat I hate being poor. Thanks for the info on the engine flush though, I've been thinking of putting new headers and doing a manifold swap anyway, this might be the chance to do it.
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Aug 28, 2012 01:40
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Horse Divorce posted:holy poo poo, 1500 for a shop to do an overhaul! drat I hate being poor. Thanks for the info on the engine flush though, I've been thinking of putting new headers and doing a manifold swap anyway, this might be the chance to do it. If its 800 in parts and takes 8+ hours, thats a reasonable price. Not venting at you specifically but drat im tired of people thinking we'll work on their cars as a hobby. Gotta pay them bills, yo.
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Aug 28, 2012 02:37
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Horse Divorce posted:holy poo poo, 1500 for a shop to do an overhaul! drat I hate being poor. Thanks for the info on the engine flush though, I've been thinking of putting new headers and doing a manifold swap anyway, this might be the chance to do it. Yeah, and I wouldn't be surprised if that's on the bottom end of the scale, either. My parents paid over 2500 dollars for transmission rebuilds and something like 3000 for an engine rebuild at one point during my childhood, auto repairs are really really not cheap unless you do them yourself. On the other hand, around here, I get 4.0s so cheap it really doesn't pay to rebuild them. I've bought five or six, most of them for 75 bucks, one for 100, one for 160, and I sourced the one for CommissarGribb's YJ for 50 bucks plus fuel to pick it up from a friend on the other side of the state - complete with almost everything required to make it run.
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Aug 28, 2012 02:48
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For what it's worth, I'm paying a little over $1000 for machine work for a turbo-intent '94 4.0 - that's pretty much everything you could possibly do to the block, head, crank, and rods, including ARP rod bolts, freeze plugs, cam bearings, etc, but excluding a line bore (block was straight if not flat). Also includes three-angle valve job and reassembly with new guides, seals, etc etc. It's not cheap machine work, but it's by someone respected who takes the time to get it right. All things said and done, I'm looking at roughly $1700 for a full rebuild with Clevite bearings, Melling oil pump, Flowkooler water pump, Mopar double-roller timing kit, CompCams cam/lifters, etc. I'm doing everything apart from machine work myself. Gonna be good ol' AMC smallblock blue. All this because I bought an MJ with a collapsed lifter... So yeah - you could rebuild a 4.0 internally for $400 quite easily if you had nothing machined, but I think that adding a couple hundred to that for some simple machine work (notably, cleaning up the deck and the head) is worthwhile, especially if you're willing to check bearing clearances individually and order replacements accordingly.
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Aug 28, 2012 04:18
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I think I may go as far as putting a new oil filter on my 4.0 5 bux is a lot to spend on an I6 though so maybe not.
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Aug 28, 2012 04:38
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Already got one for it, that was in the pile o poo poo from advance auto on friday! Fortunately the YJ doesn't seem to use an oil filter adapter so the XJ oil filter adapter will be removed and substituted for just the filter center thread/pipe, that's one of the common spots for a 4.0 to leak from. I never count on being able to reuse filters because 1. They tend to get mangled while removing, hauling, and installing the new motor and 2. That's kinda ghetto. Too ghetto even for me. Ps - the numbers I gave were rough estimates based on my assumption that the vehicle would drive in, get a full 4.0 rebuild, and drive out. 1700 including machine work and parts is a pretty decent price all things considered, mind if I ask where? (I really hope it's not Titan  )Make sure you break that cam in properly!
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Aug 28, 2012 10:05
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kastein posted:Turn the wheels to about a 20 degree angle, put the frontend on jackstands, and spin the tires by hand while watching/listening to the ujoint. You should hear a squeak most likely.  2 days ago I noticed a pretty loud ticking. I took it to a mechanic for diagnosis and he tells me it's the lifters, and that I should try running some lucas oil to quiet them down. I asked him about replacing the lifters and he said it's not something he would do, because you'd probably need to replace the camshaft, at which point he would just put in a new engine. Sounds silly to me... SOOOOOO I'm thinking of replacing the lifters and (maybe) the camshaft myself. This would definitely be the most intense thing I've ever undertaken on a vehicle. As I understand it I can replace lifters by pulling the cylinder head, removing the rockers and pushrods, and then using a special tool to yank out the lifters. Have any of you ever changed lifters? Does that sound about right? I think the cam shaft will be quite a bit trickier, anything I need to know besides what the FSM will tell me? If I'm taking off the cylinder head I'll need to use new gaskets when I put it back on right? Thanks as always for your help folks 
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Aug 28, 2012 |
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Aug 28, 2012 16:27
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Astonishing Wang posted:Thanks for this - Unfortunately this has become the lesser of my concerns That is a giant undertaking if you've never done anything like it before. I'm not saying that you shouldn't, just be prepared. To do the camshaft, you'll be disassembling a significant majority of the engine; you'll basically only be leaving the crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, and flywheel untouched. Unless it looks like it has excessive wear when you pull out the lifters, I'd leave the camshaft be, but that's your call. You might have to pull it out to inspect it, though  . The FSM should have the information for determining if it really is too worn to recommend reuse.I'm assuming that you're talking about the 4.0. Have you eliminated the other common sources of ticking: exhaust cracks/leaks, camshaft position sensor, timing chain, normal 4.0 chatter? Be sure to get a gasket kit that includes all the replacement gaskets for doing a head gasket job (it's a surprisingly large amount of gaskets and o-rings). Auto parts stores usually have them
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Aug 28, 2012 17:08
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EightBit posted:
This. Make sure you don't tear the engine apart just because your mechanic thinks it's a lifter tick. I had a pretty gnarly knocking going on and it turned out to be a loose flex plate.
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Aug 28, 2012 17:23
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EightBit posted:That is a giant undertaking if you've never done anything like it before. I'm not saying that you shouldn't, just be prepared. To do the camshaft, you'll be disassembling a significant majority of the engine; you'll basically only be leaving the crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, and flywheel untouched. Unless it looks like it has excessive wear when you pull out the lifters, I'd leave the camshaft be, but that's your call. You might have to pull it out to inspect it, though rally posted:This. Make sure you don't tear the engine apart just because your mechanic thinks it's a lifter tick. I had a pretty gnarly knocking going on and it turned out to be a loose flex plate. Duh, sorry. It's a 2002 wrangler sport, 4.0, standard transmission. I'm going to do an oil change and use a bottle of Marvel Mystery oil as soon as I'm able to get some garage time. It has a new exhaust manifold. Not sure about the cam shaft position sensor or timing chain, but it's definitely too loud to be called 'just a jeep thing.' I'll look in to a better diagnosis before I try to remove my engine with some rafters and a piece of climbing rope. The jeep is running perfectly 
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Aug 28, 2012 17:28
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Astonishing Wang posted:Duh, sorry. It's a 2002 wrangler sport, 4.0, standard transmission. You can check the camshaft position sensor by putting a finger on it while the ticking is occurring. You can check the timing chain, I think, with careful use of an automotive stethoscope. In fact, you should do that to determine if it is a lifter too.
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Aug 28, 2012 17:44
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Does anyone here have an XJ and a kid in a booster seat in the rear? What do you do about the belts not locking?
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Aug 29, 2012 15:08
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freestyl posted:Does anyone here have an XJ and a kid in a booster seat in the rear? What do you do about the belts not locking?  What do you mean by belts not locking?
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Aug 29, 2012 17:59
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Talk of fixing lifter tick on the 4.0? What alternate reality have I crossed into?freestyl posted:Does anyone here have an XJ and a kid in a booster seat in the rear? What do you do about the belts not locking? Unless your is of a significantly different vintage than ours was it should lock if you fully extend the belt. It's also possible wear is an issue. I had a belt on my ZJ that quit locking manually or from inertia. Mechanism was worn out, new one was the fix.
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Aug 29, 2012 19:07
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Molten Llama posted:Talk of fixing lifter tick on the 4.0? What alternate reality have I crossed into?
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Aug 29, 2012 19:31
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Well I googled the issue (if I pull on the belt it will not lock... it just has slack). I couldn't find much info, other than people claiming the XJ did not have locking belts. It doesn't make sense to me either.
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Aug 29, 2012 19:31
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Astonishing Wang posted:It's wicked loud Have you had any work done on the lifters/head in the past? I had some loud tick after replacing the head on my Cherokee, and it was caused cause one of the rocker arms wasn't tightened down properly. It might be worth it to inspect that before tearing everything apart.
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Aug 29, 2012 20:40
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ExplodingSims posted:Have you had any work done on the lifters/head in the past? I had some loud tick after replacing the head on my Cherokee, and it was caused cause one of the rocker arms wasn't tightened down properly. It might be worth it to inspect that before tearing everything apart. I think it had the head replaced a while before I got it. I've had it for a few months. I'm taking it in to the shop this weekend, dude quoted me ~$200 to replace the lifters, and said he'd inspect the camshaft to see how it looks. The mechanic that diagnosed it as lifter noise took off the valve cover and said the rockers all look good. The ticking just started out of nowhere 3 days ago.
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Aug 29, 2012 21:10
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MPG report 18.5 MPG w/31" mud tires 4.0 TJ, 5-speed 
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Aug 29, 2012 21:42
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piss boner posted:MPG report I took a trip to Corpus Christi two weekends ago and averaged 18mpg with 33" Goodyear Duratracs. I did button the top up fully and run the a/c on the highway though. 2000 TJ 4.0, NV3550
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Aug 29, 2012 21:47
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piss boner posted:MPG report I'm interested in seeing how my fuel economy changes after I plug in my 4.0L
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Aug 29, 2012 21:58
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commissargribb posted:I'm interested in seeing how my fuel economy changes after I plug in my 4.0L You may get some.
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Aug 29, 2012 23:16
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